Stihl 880 vs. Husky 3120?
Gonna be running at least a 56 or 60 inch Granberg to slab up some stuff that's too big for our sawmill (34+).
I see the 880 has more power stock but what about mods? Which has the most potential? Thanks
Printable View
Stihl 880 vs. Husky 3120?
Gonna be running at least a 56 or 60 inch Granberg to slab up some stuff that's too big for our sawmill (34+).
I see the 880 has more power stock but what about mods? Which has the most potential? Thanks
Whoa bro easy- just take our women and our money and go. We don't want any trouble with a guy who's got a grip like that.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...be21dadd53.png
You damn right you don't.
My grip's better cuz I choke up to where the machete balances. This puts my index finger on the steel, the hand guard between my first two fingers, and I get Mark McGuire blade speed but in perfect control. I actually did learn it in SA, where people mow yards with a machete...
Went out to a job where the boys were setting some Bearing Trees on the RR ROW in some stunted white spruce. In office clothes I picked up a crew machete and slicked off about 4' of tree trunk while I was giving some instructions, like it was some loblolly pine. Then I darted the machete into the snow in front of the tree and carried on with whatever else I was saying. Didn't think nothin' of it.
When the crew got back, they told me their track maggot hi-rail driver was mightily impressed, and cut line for my crew all day for the machete lesson.
in the PNW we mow our lawns with a sawchain
My three Stihl MS260 saws get used hard almost every day, all summer, for trail work. The two 12 year old saws are working as new, while the 17 year old saw still fires up and gets the job done, but is getting a bit tired. It's incredible how little annual maintenance they require, rarely more than blowing out the air filter and putting in a new chain, and they're ready for another season. If you're expecting anything more than occasional use, you really can't afford not to buy a Stihl professional level saw. I just wish they made a super light version, for carrying on my bike. I've tried their lightweight home saws and "pro" arborist saws, but those things are disposable toys in comparison.
I brush the sawdust off the filter daily, but only do a thorough clean annually. I touch up the chain with each tank fill, adjust the rakers weekly, and chains last a few weeks of regular use, less with sloppy operators. I clean out the accumulated gunk with each chain change. New bars every few years. Nothing else I can think of.
These guys have been out in the brush in the field next to my place all day using chainsaws to cut stuff they probably could have used a weedwhacker on. I can't see them, so maybe they're not actually cutting anything at all, and they're just revving the saws for about a second out of every four seconds. All damn day. Gah. At least cut something fellas.
"Billy'll go all day as long as he can smell that gasoline."
OK, srsly, what are you talking about again?
I'd probably care more if highangle were posting about billhooks.
"Reported for kickbacks!"
Good to see you on top of things, DW.
How's your mom 'n them?
i spent a few days slabbing with an 880 i don't recall the length on the bar i want to say 48" and it worked like a dream. Also ran it on an Alaska mill and the power is great. Ran a well tuned 084 with the Alaska and that thing screamed. worked with husky 3120 for a day bucking up some 42-46 inch diameter cedar logs. not nearly the power of the stihl and it was like starting it cold every time you pulled it. Got old quick. I will admit i am a bit biased to stihl.
I have been cutting in some serious machete territory lately. Tons of 2-8 inch trees. Probably annoying neighbors with my short throttle burst, but somebody has to thin out the garbage lodgepole reprod. Good news is the ground is flat and there are almost no rocks to be found in the unit.
Attachment 205230
Attachment 205229
I must admit I'm a longtime machete aficionado since I was a little boy. We prolly have 8-10 out in the machine/tool shed. I also use the same grip highangle uses. It's no joke.
Leaning strongly towards the Stihl although I saw a 3120 on craigslist for $800.
^^^The 880 is a fucking legend. Spend the $$. Capital investment.
That's slangblade kountry rite t'ere, pardner....
You'd get a much more beneficial and looser workout with a kaiser blade, and a 4" lodgepole that's growing moderately fast will take you two or three easy whacks if you can get a clean swing to "V" the base of the tree and push or pull it over.
https://qph.ec.quoracdn.net/main-qim...8d89f0629e02-c
A 12" mill bastard file will put an edge on a k-blade that can shave hair. Key to that is proper sharpening stroke, and the key to doing that safely is your position relative to the blade. If I don't have anything better, I jam the handle in the wheelwell of a truck, and straddle and sit on it if I have to. Then I can two-hand the file toward me like it's a drawknife, and make a beveled edge that wedges a little behind the cut and doesn't bind as bad if you don't pass through all the wood. You sharpen the business sides and the inside of the brush hook. Leave the front tip dull.
A day of swinging a jo-blade will take very little out that a couple beers won't put right back. A big saw in thick shit is a man-killer.
Machete. Educate me. I go to the hardware store and see a fiskar for $35 and a Coleman for $15.
:P
Pretty lame question, eh?
Of course, I look on amazon and the fiskars blade is like $10 cheaper. Grrrr.
I can already tell this is gonna become a quiver thing.
On the chainsaw front, I've having fun lately bucking large-ish trunks (>32" diameter) that are stuck and wedged amongst standing trees, stumps, or other felled trunks and can't be rolled. Slow going.
They both suck balls. A rubber ergonomic grippy handle will take the skin off your hand. Any handle you have to stick your fingers in is also made to fuck up a jong's whackin' hand before lunchtime.
You want hard plastic or smooth wood. A lanyard tang is helpful for starters, but after a while, a lanyard on a machete is about as useful as a lanyard on a pistol.
You don't want a super heavy blade or high carbon steel either. 20 or 22" is about max length too. 24" machetes are floppy and bendy. 18" is a little short.
Mild steel sharpens good, even though it'll probably have chunks of hard impurities and a factory temper you'll have to lose before it gets good. Any light or bright steel good enough to sharpen is going to be too stiff, too heavy, or too expensive to make a good machete.
Sheaths are good, but you don't need leather unless you mount it on a tool belt you wear every day. Surveyors paint the blades so they can find them in the woods after they jab them into the ground, catch their breath, get a bellywash, set a traverse nail, solve a BBX, take a piss, and talk shit about the boss.
Collins Legitimus are about the best, but it seems they've become collectors items...
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yfgAAO...w5/s-l1600.jpg
These are good machetes with proper handles:
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/pr...sue%20Machetes
I've been trying to justify grabbing one of these for a while now: http://www.mikejonesknifeandtool.com/bushfucker/
You need to be careful using a machete, otherwise you might cut your wiener off.
Honestly for a relatively cheap machete you'd be hard pressed to beat a cold steel kukri for around $30. Great weight, decent blades, good handles and I love the kukri balance and swing for real chopping and limbing. I have a literal quiver of machetes including heavier ones I made myself, and those are great performers for what they cost. Heck even the nicer ones they make with SK5 blades can be found for under $200.
If you want to go bigger get one of their 2 handed broadhead machetes. They're cheap and have kind of flimsy blades for the amount of force they're designed to employ but they do fuckin WORK. Wish they had thicker blades but whatever, we blast then into dirt chopping shit and they're easy enough to straighten and sharpen. Never broke one either fwiw.
**sorry for cunting up the chainsaw thread with machete talk**
Thanks for the info! Ontario, cold steel, and that British one that starts with an "M" were on my short list. My 11 yo is very excited.... almost too excited....
You must be a mohel? A Sandvik (aka Swedish brush axe) is a way safer tool that sucks balls too.
A guy told me a story about his first day on a seismic crew in the Arctic... Someone handed him a Sandvik and put him to work clearing some alders in a depression in the ground. He said his second whack went through a branch, through his boot, and wedged itself about two inches into his foot, right past where the big and first toe join.
He said after about an hour, when the bugs were really getting thick from the smell of all that blood, the heli flew over and spotted him laying there. The crew thought he was fucking off, and made the heli land so they could all boil out and explain they didn't do things that way on that crew...
When they got there, they saw he was fucked up and laying in a half gallon of blood. One of the crew looked over the lip of the little ravine and said, "Way to go, Fuckup! You just cost us a half day."
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1305]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7300ad52fe.jpg
Let us know when you post another unboxing vid, I bet your mom will totally let you take some swings for the camera this time.
If I want a fighting knife, I'll go for a Kbar or a Sharpfinger. I like drop points for pulling the hair off ungulates, and I can skin a seal pretty clean with a 6" Russell Green River in about as much time as it takes you to microwave an Oscar Meyer wiener.
A boy who works for me got a Wilson Supergrade from the other boys in his PJ unit a couple of deployments ago. Whenever I want to know what a fkn badass looks like, I stick my head in his office.
He's a Stihl man, BTW. Dyed in the wool. Pretty good with a machete too, but he didn't learn that in the Air Force. I taught him.