Which battery are you running with that? Thinking about picking one up but not sure if my 5 Ah battery is enough to get a decent amount of cutting done or if I need to throw down on one of the larger ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
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Which battery are you running with that? Thinking about picking one up but not sure if my 5 Ah battery is enough to get a decent amount of cutting done or if I need to throw down on one of the larger ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
It will work just fine. New Red batteries are awesome. I'm phasing out Yellow. Check Toolnut for the free battery promo.
Sent from my Turbo 850 Flatbrimed Highhorse
I believe we had the XC8.0 on it. It lasted a LONG time. We cut enough to lose count. Stuff from 1/2” to almost a foot in diameter I would estimate. Heavy hard stuff too.
Sweet thanks, sounds like the 5.0 will probably do what I need. I'm usually only out for a couple hours at a time and for anything big I'd just haul in the real chainsaw.
Have you ever done the trick of making a port for the exudate to drain from (and just putting a band-aid or taping a cotton/gauze ball there)? Paint a little vaseline line extending from the wound to the edge of the patch so that the tegaderm won't stick there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Seems like it would be hard with a piece covering so much of your forearm, but it works for other areas and avoids having to change it so much (but also less of a big deal if you aren't paying $$$ for individual patches of tegaderm at the drug store).
That's an interesting idea. I found that the exudate eventually just found a way out on its own, but that's a cleaner solution.
I seem to do a lot of work on bike suspension and seat posts, etc for my self and friends. During Covid Fox switched from a 9mm inner shaft to a ⅜ on their X2 shocks so my metric shaft clamps wouldn’t fit. So I decided to use my Bridgeport mill to machine a new set of interchangeable vice jaws for my Wilton vise. This design utilizes a steel dovetail to hold the jaws and 4 ball detents to position the interchangeable jaws and keep them in place. The first set of shaft clamps I made are brass for SAE sizes and they use stainless steel guide pins to keep them perfectly aligned to prevent any damage to the shafts. My plan is to make more interchangeable jaws for metric shafts as well as a set of copper and steel flat jaws for general use.
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How my day is going, LOL
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It’s a real pain in the ass washing the bike given my current living situation doesn’t have a hose, and there’s only one self service car wash in town that’s always a cluster.
Ended up purchasing this sprayer for 70 bucks and tried it out for the first time yesterday. Works great
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I CANNOT EVEN MAKE THIS SHIT UP
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Rideit would you be offended if I cross posted that to the Shit that Amuses You thread? That's hilarious.
I get those missing 10mm socket jokes on my FB pretty much daily
Please do. It's fucking absurd.
Story of my life. I own a shop with a shitton of tools and a few employees. Many different sets of sockets of every variation. 10mm is the first to go missing every damn time. Mother fuckers cannot keep up with them. I want to just buy 50 10mm sockets and spread them throughout every tool box and make little friendship bracelets for every employee out of them.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/185938216931...Bk9SR5y4j5CaYgQuote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
Fuck Amazon and everything but here's a 100-pack for a buck a piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by Name Redacted
Done. Haha. Im just gonna walk into the shop and make it rain!Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
Awesome!
What kind of 10mm socket are we talking about?
10mm 6 point 1/4 drive
10mm 12 point 1/4 drive
10mm deep socket 6 point 1/4 drive
10mm deep socket 12 point 1/4 drive
10mm 6 point 3/8 drive
10mm 12 point 3/8 drive
10mm deep socket 6 point 3/8 drive
10mm deep socket 12 point 3/8 drive
10mm 6 point 1/2 drive
10mm 12 point 1/2 drive
10mm deep socket 6 point 1/2 drive
10mm deep socket 12 point 1/2 drive
or we discussing specialty sockets like a low profile socket, or a swivel socket, or a slotted socket, or.....
You could always buy one of these:
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Looking for nitrile glove recommendations. I would like dexterity and durability (tear resistance). Been using Kimberly Clark powder free nitriles for about 13 years. I think they are 5.9mil. Overall happy, but improvements I’d like are better fit and tear resistance. The large get loose after a while and the medium are too tight resulting in sore fingers. I’m messing around in the garage on mtb and moto about 4 to 5 times/week so going commando isn’t good for my health and tossing after each use is pricey.
Been using these….on a rec from our athletic trainers…and I’ve have been very happy with durability. I use them at ski shop/ and in my shop at home. Found them on Amazon.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
I've been using these for a few years. It is possible to tear them, but they hold up way better for MTB work than thin surgical gloves.
Can confirm, the M18 Hatchet mini chainsaw is a sweet trail clearing tool. Current saw quiver:
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I honestly don't see myself carrying the gas saw into the woods really ever unless there's trees that I KNOW are going to need it. The battery saw is way lighter and easier to carry/use and gets 90% of the stuff that tends to be down around here no problem so that's the one I'll take when the primary goal is clearing trail. The Silky Big Boy is perfect for days when the primary goal is a bike ride, but clearing trees is probably necessary (gets Voile strapped to the top tube). The Silky F180 goes on most bike rides except on the most popular of trails because seems like I almost always need to clear a tree or two around here. The Corona doesn't really get used much anymore; it's not a bad saw, but the Silkys just cut smoother.
Nice, I've been scoping out the electric options--we have a network of user-maintained XC/BC ski trails out my way that need a whole lot of clearing every year. I typically take that same red corona or a 24" bow saw when I go out, but that Milwaukee looks pretty handy. Something with a little longer bar--like 8-12" or so--seems like it would be perfect. Those silkys look nice too.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Yeah, the Milwaukee is an 8" bar and it would be nice if there was a 10" or 12" option - although it might not have quite enough power for that. Biggest I cut yesterday was around 10-11" diameter and it was a little slow but did it fine. It's awesome for stuff around 6" in diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
One thing I will say is it doesn't cut very smoothly with the top of the bar which can be an issue for some cuts.
The makita 10" battery saw is fucking awesome. So easy to use and powerful (enough) for moving blowdowns. I don't own a gas chainsaw for real world perspective though.
12v sawzall + 12” pruning bladeQuote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
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electric quiver is growing
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I have a full quiver of chainsaws, but that M18 hatchet is becoming a favourite. With the 12.0Ah battery I can pretty much cut all day, it’s as fast as my larger and heavier Stihl battery saws, and I’ve been dropping up to 10” trees and bucking 12” windfall without issue. It’s ideal for limbing, The only downside I’ve found Is that the ergonomics are a bit unbalanced when working for hours at a time compared to my Stihl 200BC with a battery hip pack.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
I just got this in.
https://thingswecre8.myshopify.com/e...43905001128190
I'm really bad at aligning the stem/bar to the fork/wheel and this is amazing. No guessing, no standing over the bike, just straight bars. Seems to work on most stuff I have found.
That Silky Bigboy is sexy, but holy shit $$$.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Curious how you carry the E-Saw. I’ve hesitated on pulling the trigger since my Sawzall fits in my regular Evoc pack (and doesn’t leak oil all over everything), so I haven’t needed a new pack dedicated to saw hauling. But the Sawzall is slow on big cuts.
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
I’m eager to hear how this works for you. At the top of my list for fall purchases, and I’m deep into Ryobi batteries.Quote:
Originally Posted by shroom
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Singlehanded, tapping the trigger, making it go “zzzzppp zzzzppp……. Zzzzppp zzzzzzppp.”Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
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I'm currently just carrying it in a pack big enough for it, but I want to try to figure out a good way to carry it attached to the bike...Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
No brand name electric saws are on sale AFAIK, but here's a list for Prime Day and some competitor sales. So far I bought a makita cordless vacuum for 40% off.
https://toolguyd.com/amazon-prime-day-2023-tool-deals/
They had a pair of Knipex Cobra 10" pliers for $28 which I bought to give to a family member as a present. They look slight more expensive now.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
The M12 hatchet is no slouch if looking for something smaller. Way better then the M12 Hackzall, I use that one for burying blade in the dirt. Sometimes a hatchet is quicker for the littlie guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by kootenayskier
I might have gone M18 from the start, but already had some M12 tools.
Yeah, smart to stay with the battery system you currently have. Milwaukee claims to be all in on the M12 and M18 platforms. We'll see.
I do like their M18 chainsaw. It's not as powerful as gas for plane cuts, but does plenty well for my non pro needs. I bike it around in my old Lowe pack for trail build/maint specific days.
Need a new set of decent diagonal cutters in the 6-8" range.
Knippex?
Tell me to search, sure, but hoping this is a fair question…
Torque wrenches. I have a Park ATD-1.2 (4 to 6Nm) as my only torque tool at the moment, but believe I want/need to cover a bigger range. I’d like to buy once/right but don’t need the crème de la crème of torque tools — looking for good value that I won’t want to replace anytime soon. And okay if I actually need two tools to cover the range. Relatively novice at wrenching on my bike, learning as I go. Awesome if recommendation comes with a specific link / sku to buy (including compatible bits if needed) vs a recommended brand that has 20+ different torque tools that all look the same. Thankyoumuch
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I use this one from Harbor Freight. It works fine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-63881.html
It's in inch-pounds. Print out this chart and keep it at your workbench for conversion to Newton meters.
http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...ch-Pounds.html