Toe pin popped out (a la Kingpin).
But wait! I just realized it's a Salomon toe. WTF is he posting this here for???
... Thom
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Toe pin popped out (a la Kingpin).
But wait! I just realized it's a Salomon toe. WTF is he posting this here for???
... Thom
Best source for spare U-springs in North America? Looking to stiffen up a pair of Trofeo/Helio 145.
Any A-B comparisons between the atk FR 14 (w/freeride spacer) and Fristchi Vipec in terms of pure downhill ability?
Thinking of ripping my vipecs off my DWTs and replacing with FR14.
You're going to loose elasticity in the binding going to fr14, maybe a touch more control over the tails due to the freeride spacer but at the cost of more vibrations. If you want something that skis better you don't have to redrill you could use a Tecton. They're only 50 g heavier than a vipec
Anybody know the difference between the old M05 and the new M06 jig?
What bindings in the Raider / RT-line does the M05 cover, or are they the same?
Never tryed Fritchi, but you could easily find A-B comparison between Kingpin and Vipec/Tecton on Blister.
I went to FR14 directly from Kingpin, and in my opinion the power transfer of FR14 is near the same, maybe a bit better. I have Kingpins on Armada Kufo 108 and ATK FR14 on Kastle FX106 HP, and I really could go faster and push skis harder on Kastle with ATK then on Armada with Kingpins. Also, Kastle is stiffer and heavier than Armada (maybe it's a reason to ski faster), but I never had any issues with control in any hard conditions.
Probably have a pair of al06 risers available. Free plus passing on a favor. Too tall for my boot and not interested/have the time for modding. PM me.
Edit. It actually fits under my wife’s boot so I’ll keep it for now.
Holy observation.
I noticed the bottom outer toe screws(4 total) for the atk fr 14 2.0 don’t sit like the others. Easily explained with pictures. It was my first time mounting bindings so I could have messed up all 4 bottom outer toe screws who knows.
Seems like an odd design choice from ATK. Anyone else notice this?
Attachment 358033
My life is better than your dreams
Maybe that’s why the outer screws don’t seem to be as tightly screwed down. That’s kind of an either or mount pattern not an all eight pattern.
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Always a challenge viewing this on a phone, but we're now on the big screen ;-)
I didn't catch that all 8 screw holes were used. Bomber plus? U-bet! My attention was drawn to some of the screws not being seated as deeply in the countersinks as the others.
Is that the nature of the original question?
Having used all 8 screws, I'd be most concerned that the toe piece is seated flat on the ski, and of course, the usual tech toe installation rules apply - that the toe piece / boot is aligned so the heel fitting drops into the pins.
Even if a few screws aren't fully engaged to full thread depth, you have so much redundancy with the extra 4 screws, that it's not a problem.
I'm guessing that the seating issue is due to slight off-center drilling (being 0.5mm off will do it), which is keeping the screws from fully seating in the countersink, but it's difficult to tell from the photo.
[edit]One thing I like about Fritschi is that their toe holes are countebored instead of countersunk. It doesn't make purchasing a binding with countersunk toe holes a show stopper, but counterbores are definitely a "nice to have" feature. Of course, one could argue the exact opposite - that with a perfect mount, countersinks rule ;-) There's no right or wrong.
Every other tech binding I've seen has countersunk toe holes. A countersink is a nice thing when the drilling is precise. When you have to finagle the toe piece to align the heel fitting with the pins, it becomes a bit problematic, however. I somewhat doubt this is an issue with folks who use a jig and centering drill bits.
Since I mount low tech, it's why I've adopted @xxx-er's technique of mounting the heel first, and the toe one hole at a time - aligning the boot heel before drilling the second hole. [/edit]
... Thom
Bought another pair of FR14. If anyone wants a pair of Crest 10 97mm brakes new in box PM me.
Anyone have a lead on where to find the AL05 universal freeride spacer?
Any feedback on toe shim thickness for the FR14? I'm looking at either 1/8" (3mm) or 1/4" (6mm). Compromise for thicker shim I assume would be reduced heel riser angle. What is recommended?
Live in Salt Lake area and think I"m going to pull the trigger on the FR14 from Telemark Pyranese. They are currently $565. I am planning on getting a backland 100 or 107, haven't decided yet...Couple of questions if anyone is willing to answer
1. Will the 102 mm brake work on a 107 ski like the backland?
2. Is there a better local source in SLC or anywhere in America to score the FR14 or it's variants manufactured by other companies at a similar price point?
3. How long does TelemarkPyranese take to ship to US?
4. They say they include the risers - is this true?
Thanks!
1/ No, ATK stoppers runs small, you need the 108mm.
They make crampon widths consistent with the brake widths so if you ever want a crampon on that 107, get the 108 if they need to be consistent. *I think*
They prob don't have anything to do with each other, but they do align in their width offerings.
I'd size up more for a crampon, I recently got the 91mm crampon for my Down LD90s and it's too small, currently debating whether or not its too big to use on my 82s or if I should try and trade
I can beat that price from the UK, not by a lot, probably $20, depending upon the exchange rate. FedEx shipping to SLC is 2/3 working days. Got the 14 in stock in 102mm and 108mm. Can get other widths in a few days.
The FR14 cones complete with the AL09 Freeride Spacer.
Spyderjon FTW
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didn't want to crowd the thread (i'm newish) but already sent him a PM based on prior posts itt :)
Browsing the ATK catalogue shows three different freeride spacers. One is the split one for the FR14 etc, and then two others that are more like low-friction pad that doesn't move under the heel.
Has anyone either a) mounted the sliding design on a lighter binding e.g. crest, or b) any experience of the pad style spacer on a similar binding? Do they have to be mounted prior to the baseplate or after? Worth the effort or not?
First post!
The AL05 and AL07 are similar the difference being that the AL05 has a lower minimum height setting.
I haven’t mounted either but own both. I’ve gone the FR14 route with the integrated spacer.
I can’t see how you would mount the other two spacers nicely with brakes on the bindings. Brake less you would mount up the bindings then mount the space. There is only 1 screw on the space so you have to get it right up against the baseplate to hold it straight.
I feel the extra power in the heel on the FR14 with the space.