Why not just pump up your tires?
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Why not just pump up your tires?
Agreed. What tires and pressure are you running?
I nailed my rim a few times on my morning ride today (38c tire @ 30psi) and def spent some ride time thinking about adding inserts. But I think I'd rather just put the money/added weight into beefier tires vs. inserts. Maybe I'm wrong about that?
30 psi in a 38c is low. I’m 147 lbs, running 38’s at 37 psi. No strikes.
A friend is running a stigmata with 650b and a mullet 1x drivetrain. Sexy AF.Quote:
Originally Posted by huckbucket
I am running 40-42psi in 38c Gravelkings. Running mid 30s felt slow and too soft. Am I wrong? Is running 40psi actually making the tire slower somehow? I like my gravel bike to feel more like a road bike than an MTB. I only weigh 140-150lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive
Is too much air a thing?
40 psi is my # as well. I want it fast uphill and I pop off rocks on DH so it needs to not deform. Tubeless 650*47c
When racing cyclocross i get rim bangers but we are looking for traction with aggressive corners so run ultra low pressure and tires that stay on the rim.
Different horses for different courses.
This has some good info, but you could say that test only applies to 35 G-one's on a mellow gravel road.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I'm typically somewhere in the 35-40 range but did run 30psi the past few rides and set some PR's both uphill and down. So who knows. Either way, after some rim strikes today I'm going back up to a higher psi.
I'm running Gravelking SK 35c at 34/38 F/R. Could pump up the tires more but I'm thinking I'll lose traction that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Yeah I am gonna try to run a little lower air pressure today. Definitely lose cornering traction with the higher PSI and I see how it makes sense for the tire to deform over small bumps rather than bounce off of everything.
Gonna see how far a 38c Slick Gravelking can go. I don't really want to go full on bikepacking/XC tires, but I think that's where I need to go. I want to try some overnighters up near Seely and or Whitefish/Wild West Route areas this summer.
Tire pressure for fastest speed has been a hot topic in the roadie world for the past few years. It turns out there is an optimum pressure that depends on the road surface roughness (as well as tire and rim size, and rider weight), and it is usually lower than most people think (at least for road/gravel riding).Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
At too low pressure, you lose power deforming the tire as it rolls, and at too high pressure you lose power by lifting the bike and rider up and over all the little bumps instead of absorbing them in the tire (assuming we're talking about non-suspension bikes here). The rougher the surface, the lower the pressure you want for max speed.
Most people equate the road feedback they feel with high pressure tires to speed, but if you can feel every little bump in the road you're actually wasting power with all that vibration. Plus, if you're hanging on for dear life to stay in control, you're probably not pedaling as hard as you could.
This chart is a good starting point for pressure vs rim size, tire width, rider weight, and surface type. I don't know if these pressures are optimized for speed or something else, but I just got my best Strava segment result ever (2nd place!) on a gravel path following their gravel pressure recommendation.
https://www.enve.com/en/tirepressure/
Depending on your riding goals, you may want to adjust your pressure for something other than max speed (e.g. lower pressures for traction and a more comfortable ride, or higher to prevent rim strikes or pinch flats).
Yeah thanks. That Enve chart is what I have been referencing. I assume those numbers work for all 23mm internal rims and not just their 23mm rims which may have a deeper dish or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueNorth
34-36 pounds sure feels soft, but I am gonna try it today. They obviously know what they are talking about more than just what "feels" right to me.
I was pretty happy with the WTB Nano 40c for a more XC oriented tire. I put on the Gravelking SK 35c because my rides often involve a decent amount of pavement and I wanted something that rolls faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
The numbers probably depend a little on the exact rim (and tire) you are using, but the Enve chart seems like a good starting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
If you really want to nerd out on this stuff, you could try your own tire pressure vs. speed tests. Two common methods are a roll down test (either rolling down a hill without pedaling as in the article linked above, or pedaling to some fixed speed then measuring how far you can coast before coming to a stop), or if you have a power meter, doing several laps at different effort levels around a fixed course and plotting average speed vs. avg power for each lap, and repeating the test at different tire pressures. The trick is to minimize the effect of other variables (like body position on the bike), as tire pressure is generally not the largest factor in your speed.
Off road, I mostly shoot for pressures that give me good compliance without hitting rim and if that is not the exact ideal for lowest rolling resistance I don't really care. A few psi up or down isn't going to make a huge overall rolling resistance change anyway. Obviously on pavement 40psi is going to be noticeably faster than 20 but other than that I'd rather be "slower" in order to have better comfort and traction.
I set my 40 nanos at like 28f/36r (tubeless, 18mm width wheels, 160lbs). Going with less of a split seems to feel overly stiff up front. Kinda strange as I run my mtb tires at essentially the same pressure, maybe 1psi lower up front.
Are you guys into, Hambini? I freaking love this guy. Anyhoo, have you noticed all the rich kids are riding OPEN the last few years? Nice looking bikes, pricey as fuck. This will make you laugh and cringe.
https://youtu.be/qCgpVv07gUk
I run a similar delta with road/gravel and lack of delta on mtb. The way I see it, I spend most my drop bar bike time with my weight biased to the rear wheel, but I'm optimizing mtb pressure for close to 50/50 weight distribution on the descent. Seat and head angles, bar type and position all probably play into it, but whatever, it feels right.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Good stuff on the tire pressure. That same thought crossed my mind on a couple rides in June, dropped the pressure and I felt faster for sure.
Nice to see that notion reinforced.
No other Hambini fans? Huh.
I thought this bar bag looked pretty nippah.
https://youtu.be/_62WhYkTkVY
Ha - I hadn't seen his vids before, but that was pretty scathing. Hard to tell if his review applies to the brand across the board, or if he's just finding individual frames that should have never sold/need a warranty?
thanks for the Hambini pointer, I'm hooked! And wow what an eye OPENer. Are the Swift bags still only water resistant? Always liked their designs but found that a really odd design choice for Seattle/PNW company.Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
Coming soon! As soon as I get around to putting all this crap together(or having someone do it for me) Attachment 334284
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All that time spent waiting and you forget the rear wheel? :Faceslap:.
Nice!
We Are One wheels?
That should be a fun setup!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CantDog
Cache looks dope!
I dropped my air pressure to 37/35 yesterday. Wow that was nice. Still a hair above the recommended, but it was fast and plush.
280 miles on it.... that’s crazy.... must have some cash to buy that and basically not ride it.Quote:
Originally Posted by huckbucket
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Bit the bullet. Believe it or not, the saddle bag didn't come with it. I already had that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3823fe5b13.jpg
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^^^^ boing!
Yesterday I felt like 28/37 was a little high, might try dropping the rear to like 34-35 sometime. I had extra water and supplies with though and thought keeping things on the high side would be better for this one.
Attachment 334348
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Left, right, or straight?
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https://www.strava.com/activities/3743715790
In case you or anyone else is interested in the Warroad still, Tree Fort bikes has a few of them on a pretty solid sale. I'm looking at doing the same, Warroad with two wheel sets to have a pretty solid setup for road and gravel. Just been waiting to see if they drop the price again...Quote:
Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive
https://www.treefortbikes.com/Salsa-...-105-Bike-650b
So I met a guy today pedaling a unicycle thru our little community, with a 40+ Liter pack. He has a good layer of trail dust on him
“How far you been riding?” I asked.
“About 450 miles” he says.
“I’m riding the Oregon Timber Trail.” https://oregontimbertrail.org/
Solo
He’s the Unicycling Unicorn. https://www.uniproshow.com/
Here’s a clip of him on the Oakridge segment
He’s done the Colorado Trail as well
Here’s his YouTube channel
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCZvhFHvBXF80J0IC5svPwgw
A good way to spend your summer during a pandemic
And to make sure folks stay away from you.Quote:
Originally Posted by TBS
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well deserved beer! great pics and ride!Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Jamal,
How much of that ride was gravel? What's the criteria for gravel bike vs hardtail for you?
Seth
First Gravel Century this past weekend... surprised by how hard it was. Temps hovered in the upper 90's which didn't do me any favors. 101 Miles. 10.5k climbing. Ride time about 8.5 hours with stops.
I have mountain biked for a few decades but getting into Gravel in the past year. I'm really realizing that the right tires make or break a ride. I had a Maxxis Ravager up front which was new and worked great. A somewhat beat Rambler on the back that just didn't cut it for traction. There were extended sections of 1-2 inches of loose gravel on top of the road surface that were very tricky to climb and slow would be an understatement. Sections of deep washboard made me really understand the 650 movement.
Good learning experience and awesome to cover that much terrain. Drank about 280oz of during the ride and after and didn't pee until the next morning... Felt like shit the next day but getting a few recovery spins in since.
That's an interesting one, because the only other times I've ridden that bit of trail was in the other direction on the mtb. Now that I have tubeless 40s it's changed how I think about rides like that. I had a spare tube and a plug kit and wasn't really worried about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sethschmautz
I did have to walk a bit of it because it's not much of a trail and has some pretty off camber barely trail bits, but I expected that. Ride was almost entirely road though, that singletrack section was maybe 2 miles. There's a bit more up there and we occasionally do a "solstice" ride loop on it. Last time there were a lot of trees down, someone cleared it this year though which is cool.
https://www.trailforks.com/trails/miller-divide/
That's my current favorite area to ride dirt roads. The next day I was up there and crossed my path but on a completely different route with no overlap.
Attachment 334630
Looking at finally picking up a gravel bike -- these 3 floated to the top of the list:
- Specialized Diverege
- Salsa Warroad
- Giant Revolt Advanced 0
Looking at the 2019 versions. Only thoughts right now is the Diverge seems heavy compared to similar bikes in the category
Anyone have any suggestions?
mabe - are all 3 of those in stock in your size? the biggest issue, right now, is finding someone to sell you the bike you want.
Santa Cruz Stigmata is a good used option...
The new version is also pretty slick. The Warroad cannot fit quite large enough tires in my opinion.
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Originally Posted by mabe48
Wow. Solid. Didn't pee until next AM? My kidneys hurt just reading that!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind