Tecnica ZeroG Tour Pro - 2018- 9 boot

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Originally Posted by hcrossing

The cuff rivets on my boots have a fair bit of slop in them now after about a months use (look like they are about to snap). Would be so much better if they used screwed fittings, going to have to make my own cuff pivots now (lucky I have a lathe..)

Screws in the walk mode have also come loose but picked that up before they fell out...

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Any way you can post a video of this? The way these boots are designed it's actually really hard for the cuff pivots to develop slop. Traditionally with most boots the rivet is what holds the cuff and lower together but also is what the cuff pivots around when in walk mode. This is why a lot of walk mode boots develop play over time is the softer plastic is rotating around a metal rivet which tends to ovalize the plastic and you get slop. The last two generations of ZeroG as well as the present generation of Cochise have a slightly different design to try to eliminate this. In the mold the lower has a bit of a bushing on it so that the cuff rotates around the bushing (that's plastic) instead of rotating around the rivet. The rivet holds the cuff and the lower together but the cuff doesn't rotate around the metal rivet and you don't get ovalizing and then play.

I'm wondering if your cuff rivets just weren't pressed quite hard enough in production or something. Honestly I've never seen this happen and know quite a few people that ski these boots every day of the season and have for close to 2 years now.

Everyone wants adjustability but then complains when screws loosen... If you unscrew the walk mode screws to flip the female piece and add that 1* more forward lean you need to make sure you add more loctite to the screws or they will for sure slowly unscrew themselves. That's why this year in the box there are extra sets of screws that already have loctite on them. It's some pretty bomber loctite as well. I would strongly suggest not using a drill to try to unscrew the screws, you're almost guaranteed to strip them. I speak from experience.

Anyone tried the tour wrap style liner from the green Lupo TI?

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Originally Posted by dfinn

Any thoughts after changing the forward lean? Did it make much of a difference?

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Made almost no difference on mine. Shame as I’d like a tiny bit more forward lean. Put in a spoiler taped in place on the liner.

I have a pair of Intuition Pro Tours in my Cochise boots and pondering using the same liner/footbed from those for my Guide Pros as well. The thought being I already have to swap the footbed between the boots, the Intuitions are better than the stock liner and the shell is very similar (as far as I can tell). Any negative to doing this (besides that fact that I WILL DIE) or should I use the stock liners or pony up for a second pair of Intuitions?

Probably depends on how similar the shells are in terms of shape, size, volume, etc. Not ideal, but if they’re very similar then they might not be terrible. I’d personally get another pair of intuitions and just swap out the footbeds.


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Originally Posted by rudy

I have a pair of Intuition Pro Tours in my Cochise boots and pondering using the same liner/footbed from those for my Guide Pros as well. The thought being I already have to swap the footbed between the boots, the Intuitions are better than the stock liner and the shell is very similar (as far as I can tell). Any negative to doing this (besides that fact that I WILL DIE) or should I use the stock liners or pony up for a second pair of Intuitions?

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I tried throwing a pair of Pro Tours I had molded to a pair of cochise in my ZG's. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't good and for me would have needed a rebake. I ended up with with tour wraps in them.

Two pairs of this year's Zero G had the walk mode fall off. They had not been adjusted beforehand.

I also have a friend that weighs 130lbs and her ankle rivet has a large amount of slop now.

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Originally Posted by GoldenBC

Two pairs of this year's Zero G had the walk mode fall off. They had not been adjusted beforehand.

I also have a friend that weighs 130lbs and her ankle rivet has a large amount of slop now.

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now were these people who use the 0Gs at the resort? or just touring?

I've been contemplating getting a pair of these magic slippers after reading all the hype, but they are hard to find. I read somewhere in this string that people who had the green TLT6 (my current boot) went a full size down in the ZGTP, I'm a 28.5 in the green TLT6 and I can try on a 27.5 and 28.5 Tour Scout locally, but I'll have to order the ZGTP online. I'm wondering what to do if it turns out I am a 28 in the ZGTP. Technical lists whole sizes for the ZGTP and I found one pair of 28s online, but everywhere else I've found them, they're only offered in half sizes. Anybody know the scoop on ZGTP whole sizes? Are they just slightly larger or smaller sizes liners in a half sized shell?

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Originally Posted by Wapow

I've been contemplating getting a pair of these magic slippers after reading all the hype, but they are hard to find. I read somewhere in this string that people who had the green TLT6 (my current boot) went a full size down in the ZGTP, I'm a 28.5 in the green TLT6 and I can try on a 27.5 and 28.5 Tour Scout locally, but I'll have to order the ZGTP online. I'm wondering what to do if it turns out I am a 28 in the ZGTP. Technical lists whole sizes for the ZGTP and I found one pair of 28s online, but everywhere else I've found them, they're only offered in half sizes. Anybody know the scoop on ZGTP whole sizes? Are they just slightly larger or smaller sizes liners in a half sized shell?

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Shell size breaks on the whole number. 28.0 & 28.5 are the same shell size.

... Thom

Same liner too....

There are exactly zero ski boots offered in half size breakdowns. All 27.0 and 27.5s are the same boot (minus scarpa). Scarpa a 27.5 and a 28.0 are the same boot.

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Originally Posted by NorCalNomad

Yup the first years boots didn't have locktite on them, I had some fall out (heard some pros did as well). This seasons boots got sent out with locktite + a bunch of extra screws with locktite predone on them. It's good locktite, I went to change the angle of them to the 13 and really had to be careful not to strip the screw head.

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I checked mine today. Not tight, but not about to fall out. Tightened things down.

Locktite is my next move for the tour mechanism screws? Will vibratite work?

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Originally Posted by XavierD

Same liner too....

There are exactly zero ski boots offered in half size breakdowns. All 27.0 and 27.5s are the same boot (minus scarpa). Scarpa a 27.5 and a 28.0 are the same boot.

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Thanks for clearing that up. I can at least lock down sizing now.

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Originally Posted by SupreChicken

I checked mine today. Not tight, but not about to fall out. Tightened things down.

Locktite is my next move for the tour mechanism screws? Will vibratite work?

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Yes, vibrat is better. They probably come with this on

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Sorry if this has been asked, but if I can ski a Cochise with a good fit without modifications, is it possible to expect the same from the zero g?

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Originally Posted by NWFlow

Sorry if this has been asked, but if I can ski a Cochise with a good fit without modifications, is it possible to expect the same from the zero g?

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No guarantee, but that was my experience.

Medial malleolous (inside ankle prominence) pain both sides, basically bone bruises from pushing on shell at the pivot. Ideas to fix?

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Originally Posted by couchsending

Any way you can post a video of this? The way these boots are designed it's actually really hard for the cuff pivots to develop slop. Traditionally with most boots the rivet is what holds the cuff and lower together but also is what the cuff pivots around when in walk mode. This is why a lot of walk mode boots develop play over time is the softer plastic is rotating around a metal rivet which tends to ovalize the plastic and you get slop.

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See onedrive links below:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArPZh24xdyYpgol_eqeQyNMhiU5tZg
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArPZh24xdyYpgooAiaiZo-ApqN7lGg

As you can see fair bit of slop in them - I think it is more the rivets loosening that the plastic wearing away (still need to take apart and have a look)

The boot actually has a pretty poor design for the position of the cuff rotation axis. The two cuff pivots are not parallel in their rotation (especially the inside one) and don't align with the flexing motion/direction of the boot. This induces axial forces in the rivets (if they were parallel it would have shear force only) which loosens the rivet. I imagine they have them where they are for a reason (more natural motion or something) but not the best for durability. Frustrating when you spend nearly $1k on boots and they don't last and no real option to fix them easily (why not face fastener style rivets like Scarpa??)

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Originally Posted by DougW

now were these people who use the 0Gs at the resort? or just touring?

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One did one lap inbounds with brand new boots. Didn't adjust the forward lean or anything.
The other, I don't know.

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Originally Posted by NWFlow

Sorry if this has been asked, but if I can ski a Cochise with a good fit without modifications, is it possible to expect the same from the zero g?

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No. By good fit, I assume you mean the Cochise is not too large. The ZeroG is considerably tighter than the Cochise in every way.

A friend bought some zero g tours. She said that theyre tech binding only. Is there a problem with those in an alpine binding? Its probably already been covered in here but i think i missed it

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Originally Posted by grinch

Is there a problem with those in an alpine binding? Its probably already been covered in here but i think i missed it

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It depends on which alpine binding.

The white current model Zero G Tour has an ISO 9523 touring sole that cannot be replaced, which is only compatible with a small subset of alpine bindings. These are Marker Sole ID models (Squire ID, Griffon ID, Jester ID), Salomon/Atomic/Armada MNC models (Shift MNC, Warden 13 MNC, Warden 11 MNC), and Tyrollia AT models (Attack 14 AT). Aside from those bindings, the Zero G Tour will either not fit or may have release issues due to friction between the lug sole and the AFD contact plate.

If you are willing and able to mount and adjust your own bindings, there are a few more models that may "fit" but you are rolling the dice in terms of lateral release. First generation Zero G boots had replaceable soles and the flat ISO 5355 alpine soles from the Cochise line could be substituted.

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Originally Posted by gregL

It depends on which alpine binding.

The white current model Zero G Tour has an ISO 9523 touring sole that cannot be replaced, which is only compatible with a small subset of alpine bindings. These are Marker Sole ID models (Squire ID, Griffon ID, Jester ID), Salomon/Atomic/Armada MNC models (Shift MNC, Warden 13 MNC, Warden 11 MNC), and Tyrollia AT models (Attack 14 AT). Aside from those bindings, the Zero G Tour will either not fit or may have release issues due to friction between the lug sole and the AFD contact plate.

If you are willing and able to mount and adjust your own bindings, there are a few more models that may "fit" but you are rolling the dice in terms of lateral release. First generation Zero G boots had replaceable soles and the flat ISO 5355 alpine soles from the Cochise line could be substituted.

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Thanks Greg. Looking at the sole i thought it would need a floating afd so i thought the shift was a no go. They asked about the shift. I suggested tecton or vipec. She may prefer the shift. Most of the time its on hill with the family. Good skier but ez on gear. Her old touring rig was a baron and a mastraele so the guide tour and shift will be major improvement all around

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Originally Posted by grinch

Looking at the sole i thought it would need a floating afd so i thought the shift was a no go.

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The Shift has a sliding AFD.

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Originally Posted by gregL

The Shift has a sliding AFD.

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Perfect. Thanks for the clarity

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This may have been discussed upthread but I didn't find anything with a quick scan: is anyone dealing with ridiculously large amounts of snow getting into the boots?
I spent a week trailbreaking in boot-deep cold (negative temps all week) dry pow and at the end of the every day my liners would be completely covered in snow. That's not all that unusual with touring boots but what I've never dealt with before is enough snow accumulating under the liner on top of the boot board to create noticeable heel lift. The first time it happened it felt like I had a small rock under my heel and I figured I had broken the boot board (heavily sanded and quite thin, could break and back) but it was just a pile of snow. Every day after that I'd pour enough snow out of the boot to pelt someone with a nice snowball.
I wear Dynafit pants with a zippered cuff that hugs the boot pretty tightly (barely fits above the walk mode mechanism) so I'm not sure I can do anything on that front. If it hadn't been cold and that snow had melted my liners would have been soaked through in no time.
Thoughts?

^^^50ish days on my boots and have never encountered this. I wear a typical (for non skimo-centric culture centers) pant w/gaiter until springtime. If you run your top buckles very loose and the pant doesn't cover that area maybe the front cuff is the entry point.

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Originally Posted by Boissal

This may have been discussed upthread but I didn't find anything with a quick scan: is anyone dealing with ridiculously large amounts of snow getting into the boots?
I spent a week trailbreaking in boot-deep cold (negative temps all week) dry pow and at the end of the every day my liners would be completely covered in snow. That's not all that unusual with touring boots but what I've never dealt with before is enough snow accumulating under the liner on top of the boot board to create noticeable heel lift. The first time it happened it felt like I had a small rock under my heel and I figured I had broken the boot board (heavily sanded and quite thin, could break and back) but it was just a pile of snow. Every day after that I'd pour enough snow out of the boot to pelt someone with a nice snowball.
I wear Dynafit pants with a zippered cuff that hugs the boot pretty tightly (barely fits above the walk mode mechanism) so I'm not sure I can do anything on that front. If it hadn't been cold and that snow had melted my liners would have been soaked through in no time.
Thoughts?

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Time for some new pants...

I've had snow in between the top of my liners and shell but never enough to get under my foot. That does seem pretty odd.

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Originally Posted by Boissal

This may have been discussed upthread but I didn't find anything with a quick scan: is anyone dealing with ridiculously large amounts of snow getting into the boots?
I spent a week trailbreaking in boot-deep cold (negative temps all week) dry pow and at the end of the every day my liners would be completely covered in snow. That's not all that unusual with touring boots but what I've never dealt with before is enough snow accumulating under the liner on top of the boot board to create noticeable heel lift. The first time it happened it felt like I had a small rock under my heel and I figured I had broken the boot board (heavily sanded and quite thin, could break and back) but it was just a pile of snow. Every day after that I'd pour enough snow out of the boot to pelt someone with a nice snowball.
I wear Dynafit pants with a zippered cuff that hugs the boot pretty tightly (barely fits above the walk mode mechanism) so I'm not sure I can do anything on that front. If it hadn't been cold and that snow had melted my liners would have been soaked through in no time.
Thoughts?

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Are you running your bottom buckles open?

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Originally Posted by NorCalNomad

Are you running your bottom buckles open?

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Front bottom buckle closed with slight pressure, instep buckle loose. I tried to tighten it a bit when skinning to really press the rubber seal onto the shell but it affected the walk mode and that's not where the snow is coming in.
I flip the cuff buckles opened in walk mode and keep them latched to 3rd slot on the ladder so I don't have to fiddle with them to go in ski mode, just flip them shut. The snow seems to be coming in between the shell and the cuff on the forward foot when breaking trail. If you look inside the boot without the liner there's an opening about 1 cm wide and 2 to 3 cm wide on both side of the walk mechanism when you put the boot at the end of its rearward travel. That directly exposes the liner and I imagine snow stick to it then falls into the boot when the boot flexes forward and there's space between liner & cuff. If it's cold enough that snow never melts and slowly accumulates.

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Originally Posted by CaliBrit

Time for some new pants...

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The pants (Dynafit Mercury Pro) go over the cuff/buckle/walk mode and are pretty tight at the bottom of the cuff when zipped. I guess an inner gaiter with a tight elasctic at the bottom that can also go over both cuff buckles when they're opened may solve the problem but given the volume of the cuff we're entering park-riding snow-gangster level of bagginess.

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Originally Posted by Boissal

If you look inside the boot without the liner there's an opening about 1 cm wide and 2 to 3 cm wide on both side of the walk mechanism when you put the boot at the end of its rearward travel. That directly exposes the liner and I imagine snow stick to it then falls into the boot when the boot flexes forward and there's space between liner & cuff.

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What about attaching a bellowed section of fabric or something to seal that area? Some avy airbag balloon fabric and hot glue gun might do the trick.

Or maybe stuff in some compressible foam to fill the big voids?

Something like this? Pic of just a basic concept, no clue what would be best in this case.

ski mode

Attachment 311799
Attachment 311802

tour mode

Attachment 311803

Not a bad idea. Maybe something to stick on the inside to avoid interference with the walk mode...

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Originally Posted by Boissal

This may have been discussed upthread but I didn't find anything with a quick scan: is anyone dealing with ridiculously large amounts of snow getting into the boots?

Thoughts?

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IME its a small design detail but the snow cuff on some pants are just better, the arcterxy fury softshells i used to have were ok but the Arcterxy proclines are awesume in terms of type of choice of elastic/size of hole/rubber gripper on the elastic

I can get get a lot of snow in between the powerwrap & shell on my vulcans if I forget to pull the snow cuff over the boot top or if it doesnt stay and then what happens is I can't get the top buckle done up or the boot is really tight on the down

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Originally Posted by Boissal

Not a bad idea. Maybe something to stick on the inside to avoid interference with the walk mode...

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Any chance you can provide some pics of the boots in tour mode, rear cuff flexed to maximum rear rom, min rear rom, liners in/out, external and internal perspectives with internal spoiler both leaning forward and all the way back? Might provide some fodder for more ideas/brainstorming. PIA, but might be helpful if yer willing.

Did some quick goggling but couldn't find good examples.

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Originally Posted by swissiphic

Any chance you can provide some pics of the boots in tour mode, rear cuff flexed to maximum rear rom, min rear rom, liners in/out, external and internal perspectives with internal spoiler both leaning forward and all the way back? Might provide some fodder for more ideas/brainstorming. PIA, but might be helpful if yer willing.

Did some quick goggling but couldn't find good examples.

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Will do when I get home tonight for sure.

After lots of garage testing time I finally mounted up some shifts and took my zero Gs out for some skiing - they lasted about 2h30m.

2h of inbounds shakedown skiing one day, really liked how the boot skied - bumped the teeth of the top 2 buckles on each boot inwards. Next day out, took one inbounds lap to get to the lift to the sidecountry followed by a pow lap to a 20 min low angle skin. Got to the top of the skin to find the wire on the buckle of the top-right boot pulled out of the ferrule. Warranty requests have been sent. Anyone else have this happen?

Attachment 311918

Attachment 311919

Attachment 311920

I don't think anyone has posted that failure mode here yet. Seems like a clear warranty issue, Josh at Tecnica is awesome on warranties

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Originally Posted by mildbill.

After lots of garage testing time I finally mounted up some shifts and took my zero Gs out for some skiing - they lasted about 2h30m.

Attachment 311918

Attachment 311919

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Unsolicited stop gap repair recommendation if yer interested:

Combo of these thingies u can get at the hardware store:

- coated steel cable
- aluminum oval crush sleeves to fit the cable/wire
- dunno what it's called; some kind of wire clamp thingy

Attachment 311922

Attachment 311923

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Originally Posted by NorCalNomad

Josh at Tecnica is awesome on warranties

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+1 - replacement parts, spares and hardware are already on the way.

Thanks for the stopgap recco - I was thinking something along those lines - strip the rubber off the cable, trim and thread, and re-crimp.