Tognar.com is one stop shopping for bits and the tap. Where I bought all my mounting stuff last fall. Quick shipping too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
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Tognar.com is one stop shopping for bits and the tap. Where I bought all my mounting stuff last fall. Quick shipping too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Tognar's good, but there's a mag (Alpinord) selling this stuff, and might give a discount for other mags if you ask:Quote:
Originally Posted by NW_SKIER
http://www.slidewright.com/ski-and-s...ols-and-plugs/
Mounted jesters at +1.5 on my goliaths. Thanks to the mags who gave me advice.
Shout out for tognar. Got my stuff quick.
i mounted some marker dukes all by my fucking self on some heavily drilled armada JJs. i got a spinner, so i filled it with machinable epoxy mixed with steel wool, let it cure, drilled it, and cranked it down. still tight and no issues after a half dozen days of hard resort use.
^^^ [/wolf-whistle!]
Anyone one what the black screw is compared to the regular silver 12AB
Attachment 163867
What's a cheap way to get some helicoils?
I guess the minimum tooling is the drill and the tap. What size is the drill?
http://www.tognar.com/helicoil-screw-insert-kit/
there's a couple places that sell a helicoil kit. you're in at least $100 no matter where you go. probably a worthy investment if you mount a lot of skis yourself. otherwise, any decent local shop will probably do it for free, $5-10, or a sixer of good brew depending on how cool you are and how nice they're feeling.
FWIW, i have had very good luck with a recent fix I did of filling a stripped screw hole with shredded steel wool and machinable epoxy and then drilling that and remounting. but they're old skis and it's a ghetto fix. i'd probably do a proper helicoil on newer, nicer skis.
Well the QK is 45 everything in. Cheaper, and I dont see why helicoils would be better.
Just mounted a friend's Vipecs on and old pair of Coomba's. Couldn't find a template here (did i miss it in the template thread?) so we did it by hand. Couldn't have turned out better.
Re fucking mounted. Let's slay some shit.
Attachment 163922
Attachment 163923
Helicoils need to really be glued well, and not just in the install, but screw/helicoil. They don't make a tight seal like inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by daught
I've mounted probably 90% of my own bindings: unless the shop does it for free or discount w/purchase. Never use templates, the only time I did it ended in disaster. About 15 yrs ago a friend bought a pair of Voile 3-pin cables w/the hokey release and asked me to mount them, somehow the toe ended up where midsole should be, oops! he was less than impressed but a few holes later and I got em right. Had a bit of a mishap today whilst mounting some spare Jesters on an old pair of Movement Baggy's: two of the toe holes were out 1.5mm and I had to hammer in some dowels & redrill half on the orig holes. The screws went in nice & tight when all was said & done though. :D
Started taping up and marking some Liberty Double Helix's before they get some P18's thrown on. Been a year since mounting up some solly sth 2's so went the full transparency template route and double/triple checking measurements on the skis. Template turned out great and I now have some lovely 2x4 scraps mounted with some cute green bindings. Should get everything finished this weekend and move on to throwing some speed radicals on some hoji's
G3 ions on 182 Praxis yetis. Can't wait to ride them.
I used the one on wildsnow (https://www.wildsnow.com/12587/frits...-template-jig/), worked well. doesn't have the BSL lines like here but it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jethro
Mounted my own fucking skis last night; 190 Double Helix to P18's and 195 Hoji's to Speed Radicals. Having now done both paper templates (previously) and transparencies (for both skis this time around), transparencies are certainly the way to go. Because I was new to mounting both these bindings, I did dry mounts to scrap 2x4 to quadruple check the templates. Ran centerline tape down lower 2/3 of the ski (removed most of it, one of the hoji's still has ~ half the tape still there) and found centerline. Measured BSL of both boots, and used the Powderguide templates on transparencies (I liked the flexibility to turn off information and maintain color/measurements on the template for another extra check). Set those up and marked for the appropriate BSL, then taped to match centerline to mount point. Used a brad nail to make the first poke then followed with a center punch. Drilled a small pilot into those holes, then followed up with the ski bit. Countersunk the holes a bit, then made sure holes were clean before adding epoxy. Used the drill to insert screws until they met some resistance and then finished everything by hand, tightening screws in a figure 8 pattern a turn or so at a time (was tempted to pull out the torque wrench for the radical's torx bolts, but resisted the inner bike mechanic). Threw some boots in and cycled a few times, doing this on the radicals before tightening fully to help alignment.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a73...psudix0btj.jpg
Compared to all the crazy torquing of carbon parts and delicate bits on road bikes, this was almost relaxing! Heck, building the workbench I did all this on was so much more of a headache.
Remounted 2 pairs of DPS last night due to ever-shortening boots. No pics unfortunately as I was afraid of epoxying my phone.
I've used a modified version of Jondrum's template printed on semi transparent paper and re-used since it worked so well the first time.
The interesting frankenmount was the heel piece of the Lotus 120s which had been drilled once for Dukes (??, not my mount) and once for Dyna ST10s. I needed to move the binding about 2 cm forward and didn't have too many options so I ended up putting inserts in the plugged rear holes of the Dukes (same exact hole spacing, what are the chances). I measured everything 4 times to make sure that these holes were lined up and centered then re-drilled the holes to clear the epoxy. Enlarging the 4.1 mm holes with the 1/4" bit worked well and the hole seemed to be all wood (no epoxy sidewall). I was worried about the tapping part since I had only done it with a drill press but after practicing a bit on hard wood (oak for the chimney) I felt pretty good about mounting the tap on the drill and using the slowest possible speed for the skis. Three out of four holes came out perfect, the last had a couple of threads crumble when I went too deep. The inserts threaded in fine though with the expected amount of resistance. I'm horrible at drilling straight holes so one of the insert has a 10 degrees tilt. I used a 5/32" bit (3.97 mm) for the front 2 holes and used dynafit screws epoxied in place. I lined up everything with the boot in place and cranked the screws, no issues to speak of, alignment seemed perfect. I'd definitely want a drilling/tapping guide if I was putting holes in new skis though...
The 120 mount was for dukes. Glad the skis are still serving you well!Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
EPF tours on carbon concepts. It was the easiest thing I did all day. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...9b51090bab.jpg
I started mounting my own fucking skis with paper templates due to this thread and wanted to share one of the things that added to my confidence... http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-131...dp/B00F1ZJFZK/ Much cheaper than Big Gator Tools one and worked just fine for the three mounts that I've used it on.
Mounted a pair of Ski Logik Howitzers with Dynafit Speed Radical bindings. Here are a few observations:
1.) I couldn't find anywhere online how deep to drill. I went 3/8" (9.5mm) with no issues (no base dimpling). Skis are about 12mm thick in the mounting area.
2.) The wood core of these skis is HARD. I used a 5/32" (4.0mm) drill bit and still had a hell of a time driving the screws, but they did go and all are tight.
3.) I used a silicon based adhesive instead of epoxy or wood glue. I thought epoxy would be too strong if I ever decide to pull the mount and put in inserts, and I thought regular wood glue would deteriorate with water and allow water into the core. Can't say yet whether this decision was good or not...
For those who are interested, there is a much more complete write up here: http://exploringtherockies.com/2015/...step-tutorial/
Finished product:
https://www.tetongravity.com/images/.../15__forum.jpg
^ sexy
Agreed!!Quote:
Originally Posted by zeroforhire
I've been lurking for a few years but wanted to say thanks for this thread. Mounted my own fucking skis in large part because of the information here. (Also because it's apparently not possible to get skis mounted at a shop in less than a week in the Bay Area outside of resort season.)
I was using a mix of Alpinord's instructions on his site, along with Lou's Dynafit mounting instructions (cross-referencing the guidelines from DPS). It was a little terrifying taking a drill to a new pair of Wailers, but everything turned out great.
Some notes:
I initially tried to take the quick and easy way out per Lou's instructions, using a 5/32" drill bit from the local hardware store with a drill stop, and not tapping the thread. But that was no good with the Wailers, so I ended up ordering a proper 4.1x9mm alpine drill bit with a 12ab thread tap.
I had one minor spinner (screw went in all the way but wouldn't tighten down all the way after I was a little overzealous the first time with it) which I repaired with steel wool and 24-hour epoxy. I thought I'd be able to tighten it a tiny bit more after the epoxy set, but it's not moving at all at this point. I'll keep an eye on it, but there's no play in the binding as it is.
Was the spinner in the heel or toe?
Front left screw of the heel...Quote:
Originally Posted by RockinB
Is 15mm (hole center to hole center) the suggested minimum spacing for inserts?
I want to mount a pair of Guardians with some inserts, but the skis have already been mounted with the traditional Salomon 4 screw toe pieces. I printed out some jigs and when I overlay them, the front two holes appear to match up but the rear two are only 10mm apart. (The rear most would be the guardian's holes if it matters).
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/301/18...2380ab7b_c.jpg
I want to avoid moving my mount point if at all possible.
Any ideas? Sollyplates don't take Guardians. CAST system would use existing holes, but is also discouragingly expensive (I calculate $630+$220 for each additional pair of skis vs ~$250 for the Guardians). I ride alpine boots and will continue to do so for the time being. I'm sure I'm overlooking something, but I'm stumped at the moment.
I would move something back/forward/sideways in another parallel universe so I had more room between inserts or wtf
I would mount it. Not ideal but likely ok. If you move it you run into same problem with front holes. Use an epoxy you can drill, tap, sand, etc. to fill the holes maybe...
I've done mounts that have holes closer than that. Never had a spinner or one pull out. Fill old holes with epoxy and a hike plug. Mount 'em and go.
I vote to go for it as well. If you're careful, your skis will be fine.
Thanks.
I had been planning on putting inserts in for both the current bindings and Guardians, but going Guardians only might be smart. It would certainly cut down on the required space. Thanks for spotting my oversight.
Mounting +1.5 or -1.5cm would also work, but I like the skis at 0. Skis don't magically tour better at +1.5cm do they? If I had to move my mount point it would be forward not back on this particular ski.
Also, for the old holes, if you fill them with hardwood plugs and epoxy, any potential overlap should be no big deal:
http://www.slidewright.com/proddetai...prod=KW024-183
Skis tour better mounted further back so there's less tail - whether they ski decently is another matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasGortex
Little wood dowels it is then. Thanks for the help.
Why is that? I would think more tail = more surface area for the skins to grab...Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
(Just asking...I don't have experience with multiple touring rigs)
^^^ at some point, you're going to need to turn around