That's what I did, should be fine, I was worried because the "step" is slightly bigger so about half the threads are slightly missing, but with some extra epoxy I think it'll do the trick.
Thanks for the help.
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That's what I did, should be fine, I was worried because the "step" is slightly bigger so about half the threads are slightly missing, but with some extra epoxy I think it'll do the trick.
Thanks for the help.
Worst case, you can use quiver killer rescue inserts to salvage things.
I did a thing. Optics did most of the work. Attachment 355074
No m3 pozi flatheads listed. I ordered the m5 pozi flatheads. Hope they work without too much grinding on the headsQuote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
Another pair off the bench.
Attachment 355082
Haven’t popped in this thread in a minute. Mounted wife skis without beer and on the living room floor. Can’t believe they didn’t end up backwards https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6c6ce3c7eb.jpg
To all the quiver killering folk:
Pop out plastic plugs, fill with anything as long as GFlex is included, and drill wherever you please. Inserts + epoxy is bullet proof. I don’t care if the insert is flush, 1/2mm or a full 1mm below top sheet. Your skis aren’t going anywhere
Something I do which I haven’t seen discussed is to use a locking split washer with slightly longer M5 screws. That way there is no messing around with messy vibra tite and you know your bindings aren’t loosening up
I can agree with most of this. I have yet to run into any issues outside of some inserts protruding too far from the topsheet. Otherwise get the inserts mostly straight and make sure the machine screws stay in and you're set.Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk
I was watching a luthier do some cool work and he mentioned a Vix bit - a self-centering bit.
I mount tech bindings essentially using @xxx-er's technique (I still use a template for the heel and one toe hole) - mounting the heel first, then the toe by one screw. After that, I insert the boot to orient the toe piece for a precise heel pin alignment.
Centering the screw holes is key, and to get the centerpunch perfectly centered, I use a drill bit that barely clears the hole in the toe piece's base plate - something on the order of a 5/16" bit. I spin it once or twice centerpunch the hole.
These look as if they'll do the job without the bit touching the binding base plate.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg
... Thom
I use self centering bits all the time at work, not ski related, but for mounting hinges and stuff. They work great!
I think I need a youtube video, i dont see how the bit self-centers. That said absolutely dynomite idea and i want oneQuote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
I’ve used these with a plastic template for making cribbage boards.
Here ya go ..Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
https://youtu.be/yIGWr-giZgo
... Thom
wow that's rad. super handy.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
jong question but how would you combine that bit with a depth stop to make sure you don't turn your skis into swiss cheese?
maybe use this to get the hole started, then swap to the stopper+bit? seems fiddly.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
yep, that makes sense. probably too much work for me, since i mount on a jig and then true up after the mount is finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
last night i finished my 4th successful QK mount. it's amazing how different putting inserts feels into different cores - those praxis skis are burly as fuck, but my volkl BMT's were super soft. i used glex 650 on all inserts, let them cure upside down with the bindings in, and everything feels solid, but i'm still going to be a little nervous skiing 'em.
question for the collective: can i quiver kill my atk freeride spacers? how do i even mount it? just mark where it should go with a dimple and then drill two holes, put inserts in em, and let it go? truth be told i'm a little nervous about putting in two more holes, not sure if it's worth it or not. would love to hear your thoughts.
Here's a thought: that Rogue Batsquatch is one of the vilest IPAs I've ever had the displeasure of tasting. The hazy craze needs to end and it's entirely because of that beer.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
Do not, under any circumstance, continue swilling such piss while mounting bindings, it will upset Ullr so much that at some point you'll end up drilling through your hand or epoxying your dong to a ski.
Had a weird thing happen on a recent mount...wondering how much I should worry about this.
picked up some moment belafontes from a fellow mag. Threw the jigarex on to check for hole conflict, didn't see any. Plugged the old holes with plastic plugs + epoxy. All good.
When I drilled the new holes, I saw that somehow I had missed that the rear set of holes on the toepiece were almost dead center into the old rear toe holes (different binding, just coincidence). The new hole drilled out most of the plug.
I decided to just say fuck it and keep going. The new screws dropped in cleanly, no spinners. The last 10% of the depth had more resistance than usual - I think it was basically forcing some of the plastic plug into the old threads. It did not move any material up and out of the hole.
So now the toepieces have 2 good new clean mount holes, 2 holes with overlap into the old holes/epoxy/plug material but totally solid bite, and titebond 3 pretty heavy into the holes for waterproofing.
It feels like it won't be an issue to me. In part because the type of force that would exert intense upward pressure just on the back set of toehole screws seems uncommon. I would be more nervous if it were the front set of toe holes obviously.
WWMD? Not worry about it? Lower toe din half a click? Check periodically to see if just the questionable rear set is lifting slightly over time - which seems a more likely failure indicator than a full rip-out including the clean front set of holes....
If I die will you sing at my funeral?
sounds really fucked up to me on many levels not even sure where to begin
I would look to remount the toe 1/2" forward OR 1/2" back, hopefully the adj on the binding would accomadate this, rip all that shit out and reseal with BBQ sqewers and slow set
plastic plugs are only to keep the water out of the ski core period
WHAT?? fucking blasphemy, i actually really like that hazy - but i drink very few of them. i would challenge you to a fight over that insult, but knowing you're a frenchy just means you're likely to surrender anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
if it makes you feel any better my fridge is full of sam smith's oatmeal stouts and nut browns - i'm stoked i can find them in the grocery store now.
Instead of surrendering I'll throw that beer in your face and you'll either melt or go blind. Then I'll steal your coffee roasting equipment.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
But honestly, I don't mind hazies but I found the batsquatch to be so fucking foul I actually couldn't finish it, and that was after a day of roasting in the sun drilling bolts and cleaning choss at the Jungle. You know the place, you know how inconceivable it is not to finish a beer under these circumstances, and yet...
It's possible I'm just paranoid but I don't trust holes that overlap plastic plugs, even if they're glued in. To be clear — no past failures to validate this, I just haven't ever cared to find out.Quote:
Originally Posted by optics
If it were me I'd put inserts in those two holes to get all the plastic plug out of there.
You are squarely in the right here. Rogue is garbage. With so many excellent breweries in Oregon, I can't imagine how they stay in business.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Possibly a good choice for mounting skis, staying sober would not be an issue.
I assume the Jigarex is like production mounting jigs, in that the guide bushings are designed for binding bits, so my solution is redundant.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
Going freestyle or with a paper template, and for normal binding screws, I just use this wide bit as a center punch - create a small dimple. Then, I remove the binding and drill as you normally would with a 3.6mm or 4.1mm bit.
With the Vix bits, I kinda doubt you can find 3.6mm or 4.1mm bits, so you'd likely also just use it as a center punch.
When drilling for QK / BF inserts, I've found some toe pieces' base plates are a near perfect fit for the 5/16" bit and so I'll drill to a depth of perhaps 1/4" (still using the toe's baseplate to keep the bit centered). Then, I remove the toe and drill with a stop to the correct depth. Of course, I err on the side of drilling too little without the benefit of the stop.
In one case where I drilled too shallow of a hole (I probably drilled only 1/8" deep), it was adjacent to a fiberglass/epoxy plug, and the bit wandered after removing the binding to deepen the hole.
So, I re-plugged (waited 24 hours) and drilled again. I posted a link to the recovery in another thread, but here it is (post #408: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...10#post5931310).
Those holes on the Praxis/Lhasa mount you drilled are really clean looking. Good job! Yeah ... inserts and different core densities ... interesting.
... Thom
I wouldn't trust it either, and would either do a FG/epoxy plug for an overlapping hole (and re-drill), or install inserts, helicoils or some other beefy fix. Why not have peace of mind?Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
... Thom