https://www.fixation-plum.com/en/our...-race-150.html
there is a drilling template linked on the bottom right of this page.
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https://www.fixation-plum.com/en/our...-race-150.html
there is a drilling template linked on the bottom right of this page.
Not if you do it right.
You have to keep poking the epoxy with a paper clip until there are no more voids or bubbles.
If your workspace is cold use a heat gun to make it flow
For me? I trust long set epoxy way more than bamboo skewers or golf tees.
YMMV.
PS. Can you machine tap bamboo? You can with epoxy. As long as it’s long set high tensile strength.
PPS. I would risk adjacent screws with epoxy done right. Bamboo skewers and golf tees make my knee hurt.
Where’s Mitch (RIP) and telemark tips pullout thread. An enginerd actually measured this shit. And yes. Golf tees worked. But I think that was where the 1.5 cm rule came about.
But with machine epoxy I would feel fine on adjacent holes.
PPS. If you don’t mount your own you get plastic plugs. I’ve seen skis snap on the plastic plug line. At 2cm spacing. The core is vacant and compromised
Final thought. For those that don’t understand.
For filling holes.
Get slow set epoxy. The longer the cure time the longer the cross link chains.
JB Weld long cure is good. Hard man is better.
Anyways. Mix it on cardboard one to one and once it’s mixed use a paper clip to drizzle it into the holes. Keep poking the holes until it’s solid with no air.
That’s hard core epoxy.
Which is what keeps your ski from breaking from the manufacturer on the original layup.
Or buy 333 skis in the parking lot.
Golf tees and bamboo skewers are filler. Use them if you are concerned about weight. If you want strength use long cure epoxy.
I have a pair of 333 skis w 7 mounts. Thinking about overlapping some holes. What glue works best? Thx
I wonder if any manufacturer has considered making epoxy core skis.
Ugggh.
Not to the Barron. Not ragging you.
But a general comment about plugs
How much epoxy do you have around that golf tee.
Is it an even 2mm epoxy bond? Or was it hammered in sideways and oversized?
That plug might have zero glue or epoxy.
Might as well pound in a plastic plug.
I’d rather fill the void.
https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/yh...1&action=clickhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx6IwshTL6M
dude it sounds like you are all messed up on triptamine from the turkey but who know what is really real ?
It doesn’t need to “soak” into the core. It sticks around really well. When you pack it in while still pliable it fill all the voids and interdigitates with the threads from the screw. It’s waterproof and workable.
Making “funny” cultural references and talking like a bro doesn’t make you right it makes you sound like a dipshit.
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anecdotal data point: i've drilled touching holes filled with g flex w/ chopped fg, double bubble slow set w/ chopped fg, and oak dowel w/ g flex. i've had a screw pullout once, and it came from a dowel. do with that what you will.
I'e been doing the chopped FG and 2 part slow set for ever, I might have even 1st to comeup with it but people didnt wana use it cuz they thot I was on drugs, I was of course I mean how do you think I came up with the idea on a dark and stormy night ?
But I wouldn't depend on a dowel thats been glued in eh
I have a pair of Chipotle Bananas with two quiver killer mounts I just got. I want to mount a demo attack into the skis. With adjustments fore and aft I can make the new holes for the demo plates work fine.
My question is this -
should I pull all QK inserts and dowel epoxy treat them and mount the demos
or
should I leave them and fill / seal the QK inserts with ski wax or ptex the mount them
or
Just mount the demos, set the BC and BSL and ski them
I don’t plan to ever use the QK inserts or put the style of binding back onto these skis
I am not a huge guy but sometimes ski hard and most of my other skis have two to four mounts with all old holes plugged with golf tees and marine epoxy.
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I have never used them but it sounds like you are a huge QK fanboi so if you got 2 sets in the ski you could recover some of that $$ by removeing the QK and filling the holes with dowel or what ever works for holes that big ?
If they were mine, if leave the inserts alone, push some plastic plugs in to the threaded holes to keep them clean--You can always remove those later with a drywall screw. Then just mount over the top with your new binders.
IMO, you're not returning much structural integrity to the core by removing the inserts and filling with dowels/epoxy. The fibers are already interrupted and that's where the strength of the core comes from.
If structural integrity is your top priority, I'd pull the inserts, fill holes with an epoxy like gflex 650, with some sort of fiber mixed in (snipped up FG cloth). Ideally the epoxy is warm so it is less viscous and wets out the core material and any voids. I like to add a little bit of heat with a hair dryer or something after the holes are filled so that bubbles rise to the top faster and the epoxy settles in the holes. This is partially a response to the hole plugging discussion above--If the goal is to return integrity to the core, "rejoining" the wood fibers is your best bet, not plugging the hole.
HB122
Attachment 506355
R105
Tap It!
Attachment 506356
Attachment 506357
Anyone bent pivot race brakes out to, say, 90mm? Heat or no heat?
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a conceptual guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rk6yIKnLqKc
All inserts have a bottom. No water gets in.
The only reason to remove them is if you think more epoxy and filler makes the ski stronger. Which it might. But if it’s epoxied in, how different is that from an epoxy golf tee?
Yo Mags! Getting ready to mount some Bent Chetler 90's for a friend's kid. They were previously mounted with Shift. I'm going Warden 11. It looks like I can reuse two toe holes and end up mounted very close to the line. The old mount holes look OK. Should be good to reuse them, no?
It was mounted with a clear glue before. Not sure if the holes were tapped or screws just run in. I don't want to run screws in for a test fit because I figure that could further compromise the holes. They are volcanoed a bit, but threads look OK on close inspection. Glue and go?
I would
You should be totally fine to reuse the holes in this situation. If the volcanoes are tall I would shave them down flush or close to flush. I reuse holes all the time on kids (and adult) skis since they have frequently been remounted once or twice by the time we get them used.
" I don't want to run screws in for a test fit because I figure that could further compromise the holes "
If you are worried about these holes before you even start whats to stop them stripping ?
I reuse screw holes all the time, if boot center is gona be close I would call it ON so in situ you describe I would shave the volcano, cram the hole with FG and 2 part, run the screws in till they start to snug or spin, leave to cure over night and crank them next day
xxx'er, I have a question about how to fix a hole with epoxy and FG (either just filling as you note above or fixing a known spinner) and let the epoxy set overnight before cranking down the screws. Do you heat the screws with a soldering iron to break the metal-epoxy bond before cranking down, or do you just crank them cold?
Mounted, no problem. Thanks guys!!
Boot center landed about 3mm back from the line. I'll call that a success.
make the epoxy/ FG mixture heavy on the FG, Epoxy hasnt really had time to stick yet so I would just crank it down
An earliest old PM, I talked LC thru this in 2009
04-15-2010, 05:34 AM
LC
LC is offline Registered User
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Re: Stripped binding hole repair
Hi Al, thought I'd give you an update on this. The stripped mount repair has held up fine. I got in 101 days skiing in Austria but the snow was really bad this year so probably only about 15-20 on the Thugs. Still, thanks a lot for your help, hope you had a good winter!
Lo
Waxinng the screws ^^ would probbaly be good,
you have done this fix ?
I dont consider myself an authority,
Ive been techin a few decades cause its a good skibum gig and i get paid.
i do have more mounts than posts in this thread :fmicon:
theres a reason shops and most experienced tech use jigs, bits, taps helicoils and use the same protocals mount after mount day after day
cause they work and theyre time proven and effective
any you tards want help with a mount come see sheldon and I or hit me up to use the tools to do things in a brofessional manner
https://hosting.photobucket.com/a75b...08ed205d4b.jpg
oh great the troll is here
I've mixed and slathered gallons of epoxy on surfboards, guns, furniture and other wood things, boats, and cars. The principles are all the same - use a release agent when you don't want things to stick. Pam spray, minwax paste wax, case lube, all work well for that very thing.