I've skied Wardens MNC's in my Mercurys without an issue. Where are they contacting?Quote:
Originally Posted by daught
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I've skied Wardens MNC's in my Mercurys without an issue. Where are they contacting?Quote:
Originally Posted by daught
Install manual states that's an issue. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...195cb8d8c2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...16cbde7382.jpg
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daught, ah, ok. Mine touched there too but when I torque tested them and compared the readings to that of an alpine boot (same bsl) that had clearance I got the same readings - so I took that as meaning the shell was just 'kissing' and was happy at that. Try backing the din right off and see if you can feel any resistance/hang-up when slowly pushing the boot out.
Yea, the boot touches the binding after it released from the wings. It really doesn't seem to add any resistance to the release.
What do you think about the AFD not having the small gap? It just touches it, I can easily slide it from under the boot, but again no gap.
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I wouldn't be concerned about that with the Mercury/Vulcan as it has those two circular hard rubber areas on the sole designed to not compress/drag on the AFD like many touring soles do.Quote:
Originally Posted by daught
If you insist on solly's move toe foreward just enough to get 1cm center to center on the front holes. Heel looks fine, so you would be mounting a few mm forward for a slightly longer bsl. But if you can hit the line with pivots, why not?Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiLyft
helicoil question for y'all.
i have a ski with two helicoils at the front of a heel track (attack2 demo). they are both slightly proud of the topsheet. do i grind em down flush? carve a tiny bit of material from bottom of the heel track to make room? just mount em up and forget about it?
I'd dremel off the last little hanging portion of the coil to get it at or below the surface of the top sheet.Quote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
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The mercury are within the adjustment range. The khions are the ones that are too tall. They don't have any hard rubber like the mercury. Kinda weird they put the hard rubber on the older Mercury/Vulcan, but not on the khion which is less touring oriented.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
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jong time, happy monday mags
i just did this mount last night - wood glue for now, since i'm putting inserts in these eventually. they had an existing mount so i spaced out 2 or so hole widths from it and went for it. left them to dry upside down in a warm place, and i'm hoping to ski them tonight (just fitness laps, not real skiing)
now my question is: when i look edge on to the ski/binding interface i can see about a paper's width of light through the bindings - the tiniest of gaps. i wonder if the topsheet just isn't level? i hand tightened the screws (to actual hand tight), and i didn't want to yard down hard on the screws (i feel like i was putting plenty of force on them).
so am i gonna die?
Attachment 354078
we are all going to die
you might feel the binding slop around but its doubtful
it feels mega solid in handQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
and this mount is only temporary to put in BF inserts, anyway
seriously though is this an issue, and if so, how could i have avoided it?
It sounds like you might have a topsheet volcano preventing the binding from sitting perfectly flat on the skis. I've seen lots of skis sent out of shops with a small gap like this and have some in the quiver. You'll be fine.
thanks, that's exactly what i thought too.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
i took a chisel to the previous mount to try to un-volcano it as much as possible, and i also tried to reduce the volcano in the new holes, but my guess is it got pushed out a little bit when i actually screwed it in
For volcanoes and plastic plugs a little sureform plane is the tits.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-...-399/202262007
if you take a 3/8ths drill bit and rotate it by hand in the hole you drilled to take off JUST enough material to chamfer off some of the top sheet material
you in effect remove the volcano before you create it so you don't get the volcano's
be aware if you remove too much material you lose holding power
gotcha, this is super helpful. as always, i appreciate the wealth of advice and knowledge in this communityQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
i also have the binding freedom tool for polishing down volcanos by hand, maybe i should have used that?
I don't know what that is cuz i never do inserts but however you do it if the hole is SLIGHTLY chamferd it doesn't volcano
you can also use a countersink bit. rotate by hand.
Thirding the rotate by hand advice. Bits can "suck" in to that nice soft top sheet and remove a lot of material in a very short amount of time. Ask me how I know.Quote:
Originally Posted by ntblanks
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thats why i have said JUST and SLIGHTLY in caps,
probably also a good time to skip the power tools ^^
Question for you gurus... regarding Marker Tour F12 bindings size small
I am looking into buying a pair of skis with these mounted already. I am not a fan of them.
I will be putting on pivots, mounted to 327bsl.
Will there be any conflict of interest? Or should I be clear.
Thanks :)
Attachment 354151
Kore 117 w/ pivots @ +1. I have the Kore 105 as a touring ski which I like. Thought I'd give these a try. Maybe later this week in some good ole New England rain corn.
That is fucking genius!Quote:
Originally Posted by kid-kapow
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You might have some topsheet volcanoes that are keeping the binding from sitting flush.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
Or you might have not tightened enough. This is tough to describe and you kind of have to go on feel but you can get a spinner if you overdo it.
Edit: you guys beat me to it.
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