PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

Note to self: when triple-checking hole position relative to ski edge and center, don't forget to check fore/aft position as well.

I guess we'll see if I can tell the difference with them on my feet.

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yes ^^ by measuring from tail as opposed to using the ski center line because the line on the top sheet can be off, sometimes the mfger will recommend a centerline measurement from the tails if you contact them, especaily if they are recommending something different than using the centerline mark, its really all just good layout practices


i recently remounted a toe piece for a bro that had been knocked off by hitting a stump at low tide, it was possible to inject slowset into the ripped up area with a syringe, remount the toe 1/2" back in new material, adj the heel back 1/2" and not have to remount anything else

So i asked bro (good skier) did the fix hold and could he feel that one ski was mounted 1/2 inch back

it held and he couldn't feel the mount was off 1/2"

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I came up with the idea late at night, I had the materials on-hand and i was probably high

rebuilding the material of a ski around the screws with epoxy/ FG is somewhat unprecedented so I want THE very best epoxy available for the job period which is 24 hr slowset

I have a bottle of the good stuff kicking around, I will never go thru the entire bottle but I find other uses to justify/amortise the cost per application, if you don't have other uses for slow set epoxy or you don't have any of the stuff or you are not handy maybe its more cost effective to just get a helicoil done ?

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I had some decent slowset I got when I was fixing some delam on my Moment Bibby Pros years back. Was planning to use that for my fix, but when I dug it out one bottle had gone solid. I'm pretty handy I just don't tend to break stuff and need epoxy very often. $25 for g/flex and I could probably just go get a helicoil. That's why I was wondering if there were cheaper options that will work.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

yes ^^ by measuring from tail as opposed to using the ski center line because the line on the top sheet can be off, sometimes the mfger will recommend a centerline measurement from the tails if you contact them, especaily if they are recommending something different than using the centerline mark, its really all just good layout practices


i recently remounted a toe piece for a bro that had been knocked off by hitting a stump at low tide, it was possible to inject slowset into the ripped up area with a syringe, remount the toe 1/2" back in new material, adj the heel back 1/2" and not have to remount anything else

So i asked bro (good skier) did the fix hold and could he feel that one ski was mounted 1/2 inch back

it held and he couldn't feel the mount was off 1/2"

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I'm hoping I can't feel it, either. I think it's about 0.5-0.75 cm, so potentially significant, but if it comes down to it I can always remount both towards center-mount and learn how to ski switch.

I did check the factory centerlines before beginning, and they were both the same distance from the tail. This is on a pair of Bent Chet 100s, and Atomic clearly puts the mountpoint marks on over the top of the topsheet, because my masking tape actually took the 0 line off one ski. I suspect having printed on transparency instead of paper would have saved me that error.

Overall, with one spinner (which seems to be okay after using steel wool and epoxy) and a small fore/aft screwup, I'm willing to consider that a success for a first attempt putting holes in new skis. I am glad I didn't try to mount my wife's, even with the shop charging $75, because the fore/aft goof would have bothered me a lot more.

This clamp-center-location-finder idea is brilliant, love the concept.

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Originally Posted by tgapp

second ever mount, these are for the wifey

i'm pretty stokedhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9b35b84bb0.jpg

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At least your binding mounting is straighter than your picture hanging!

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Originally Posted by Spyderjon

At least your binding mounting is straighter than your picture hanging!

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hahahahaha well deserved and well played, but in my defense, i think i bumped it while setting up the photo op

i am not a mechanically inclined person, and it turns out that shifts are just stupid complicated. while fitting the toe piece on i didn't realize there were so many rube goldberg-esque parts; a sliding locknut, screws under the afd, etc. for a minute i thought that the whole mount was buggered because the holes appeared to be off by a CM, but that was not the case; it's just a bizarre contraption.

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Originally Posted by tgapp

hahahahaha well deserved and well played, but in my defense, i think i bumped it while setting up the photo op

i am not a mechanically inclined person, and it turns out that shifts are just stupid complicated. while fitting the toe piece on i didn't realize there were so many rube goldberg-esque parts; a sliding locknut, screws under the afd, etc. for a minute i thought that the whole mount was buggered because the holes appeared to be off by a CM, but that was not the case; it's just a bizarre contraption.

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In my case, I had to pull them off my wife's old skis first. I had to google the damn tech manual to figure out where the second pair of toepiece screws were (I knew about the single button screw).

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

Yeah, so this is not a novel idea, but a variation of what other people have done in this thread previously (somebody else might have made and shown something similar before - I cannot remember).

Easy peasy. I have no idea why I have not made something like this a long time ago rather than using calipers.

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This is great, a much better solution than calipers (don't work well with cap construction) or a speed square which both require you to place the measuring device at the same forward/aft position when you switch sides and therefore introduce an opportunity for error. If you're gonna use a speed square I would clamp a hard cylindrical stop near the center line of the ski and slide the square against it so you can repeat the position from the other side.

Thanks for sharing!

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Originally Posted by waveshello

This is great, a much better solution than calipers (don't work well with cap construction) or a speed square which both require you to place the measuring device at the same forward/aft position when you switch sides and therefore introduce an opportunity for error. If you're gonna use a speed square I would clamp a hard cylindrical stop near the center line of the ski and slide the square against it so you can repeat the position from the other side.

Thanks for sharing!

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This is a good idea and concept for sure. Just beware that most cheaper clamps don’t have parallel jaws. I tried a few similar set ups with clamps I had on hand and didn’t like the variability in the jaws. Maybe yours are more consistent. Certainly worth double checking.
You could incorporate the centre ruler and notch into the double square set up to eliminate the concern of non-parallel jaws as well. This would be a nice way to remove the calipers and associated mental angst from the process as well. Splitting millimetres seems a fool’s errand, but is one we fall into when presented with the data...

Regarding Pivot forward pressure adjustment. I mentioned this in the ON3P thread when someone brought up dildo position on my mounts. I used existing holes which the mount is a bit short and I'm on the very outside edge of the adjustment range.

One interesting thing I noticed. While the forward pressure indicator is often thought to be unreliable, it seems there's a change in the heels on these new (Grip Walk) Pivots vs my older sets. On the older sets if you adjust fwd pressure too high the indicator will go past the marks (or you can just pull the heel piece back and get the indicator to pass the marks). On the new bindings, there is no rearward travel beyond the marks. If I pull the heel piece straight back, there is a positive stop right when the indicator gets to the marks. It will not go past. Anyone else noticed this?

I thought part of idea of correct forward pressure was that you have elastic travel rearward. With these, when forward pressure is correct (according to the indicator) there is no more rearward travel available in the heel.

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Originally Posted by Reformed

This is a good idea and concept for sure. Just beware that most cheaper clamps don’t have parallel jaws. I tried a few similar set ups with clamps I had on hand and didn’t like the variability in the jaws. Maybe yours are more consistent. Certainly worth double checking. ... Splitting millimetres seems a fool’s errand, but is one we fall into when presented with the data...

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edit: sanding it down to get the jaws even was a bad idea as it only made the tool even less precise.

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Originally Posted by mtskibum16

I thought part of idea of correct forward pressure was that you have elastic travel rearward. With these, when forward pressure is correct (according to the indicator) there is no more rearward travel available in the heel.

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Does that indicate that there is no travel aft of the correct forward pressure point, or simply that the measuring device does not move further back? The former seems a bit counter intuitive. Also, I would kind of imagine that the majority of the horisontal elasticity comes from the dildo assembly moving - aka a change in angles facilitating movement along the vertical and horisontal planes, not the base assembly moving a lot. Pure speculation though.

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

Does that indicate that there is no travel aft of the correct forward pressure point, or simply that the measuring device does not move further back? The former seems a bit counter intuitive. Also, I would kind of imagine that the majority of the horisontal elasticity comes from the dildo assembly moving - aka a change in angles facilitating movement along the vertical and horisontal planes, not the base assembly moving a lot. Pure speculation though.

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The entire heel piece can be pulled back. If you pull it back until it hits a physical stop, that is right when the indicator hits the marks. On the old one the indicator is past the marks when you hit the stop. All I know is it's different than the old ones. And the "forward pressure indicator" seems it can no longer indicate if the forward pressure is too high. (again, realizing many believe it to be of questionable value anyways)

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Originally Posted by mtskibum16

The entire heel piece can be pulled back. If you pull it back until it hits a physical stop, that is right when the indicator hits the marks. On the old one the indicator is past the marks when you hit the stop. All I know is it's different than the old ones. And the "forward pressure indicator" seems it can no longer indicate if the forward pressure is too high. (again, realizing many believe it to be of questionable value anyways)

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ah, thanks for the clarification! I stand corrected :)

Wouldn't that seem to suggest that there cannot be too much forward pressure (given that the mount is within the appropriate range) - rather either there being too little or correct? Aka, just tighten untill you get to the marks and then leave it be?

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

ah, thanks for the clarification! I stand corrected :)

Wouldn't that seem to suggest that there cannot be too much forward pressure (given that the mount is within the appropriate range) - rather either there being too little or correct? Aka, just tighten untill you get to the marks and then leave it be?

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That's kind of what it seems like to me. I have been able to find older tech manuals for these online but not for a new style ones.

Only hacks pound in odd colored, non matching plugs. I remember an old thread where someone pulled his bindings and the shop had used hot pink and flouro green plugs, and lost his mind!
Mine are always matchy matchy. [emoji6]
Attachment 351877
Mounted up some Shifts for Mrs Hubbs.
Attachment 351880
Attachment 351881
I used some old holes in the heels, and I was a little worried about spinners so I used epoxy on them. Not a SOP for me so I left a note for future techs (or future me) to know those heel screws were epoxied in.

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

Only hacks pound in odd colored, non matching plugs. I remember an old thread where someone pulled his bindings and the shop had used hot pink and flouro green plugs, and lost his mind!

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Only hacks use plastic plugs. Real bros use bamboo skewers ;)

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Only hacks use plugs at all....just reuse holes.

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Originally Posted by BC.

Only hacks use plugs at all....just reuse holes

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Only hacks remount skis...just buy new ones....[emoji383][emoji383]

^disagree and never had a problem with an appropriately glued plastic plug. Pulled some that had been in a ski used in lots of wet conditions for 4 seasons the other night. Core was perfectly intact and holes were successfully re-used. Skewers no doubt work, but likely aren’t any better than plugs and seem to require epoxy and fucking around since they’re porous. Main goal is keeping water out of the core of the ski. What’s more waterproof, bamboo or plastic? Right tool/product for the job and all that, but that’s my take. YMMV of course, and getting plugs can be a PITA in Canada, so people resort to other means.

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Originally Posted by Reformed

^disagree and never had a problem with an appropriately glued plastic plug. Pulled some that had been in a ski used in lots of wet conditions for 4 seasons the other night. Core was perfectly intact and holes were successfully re-used. Skewers no doubt work, but likely aren’t any better than plugs and seem to require epoxy and fucking around since they’re porous. Main goal is keeping water out of the core of the ski. What’s more waterproof, bamboo or plastic? Right tool/product for the job and all that, but that’s my take. YMMV of course, and getting plugs can be a PITA in Canada, so people resort to other means.

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I’m the remount king at my shop.....I use plastic plugs all day long at shop....I even match colors...

Just piling on to be a smartass.....

^ I may bring up a pair of skis I just got on here over the holidays that have a prior p18 mount I want to reuse. Your shop is open on the regular?


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Shop’s open 7 days a week....

I’m there on Saturdays....11-close. Just ask the boys up front to get the “old” guy in the back.....I’ll be rockin in the back as I crank out all the installs from the week....lol.

Big fan of avant garde plug color combinations, shows character.

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Originally Posted by jackattack

Big fan of avant garde plug color combinations, shows character.

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Yup. Whatever color is handy. Though I did go for all black when I mounted these bad boys a couple weeks ago...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...89869f1bf8.jpg

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Originally Posted by Reformed

getting plugs can be a PITA in Canada, so people resort to other means.

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Ya I like to use epoxy in old holes. It can take time but... my skis are worth it.