You guys seem to have a lot of trouble sharpening your saws. It ain't rocket surgery...
Careful with manzanita. Burns super hot. You can damage your stove. And old dead manzanita is hard on chains. Good luck
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You guys seem to have a lot of trouble sharpening your saws. It ain't rocket surgery...
Careful with manzanita. Burns super hot. You can damage your stove. And old dead manzanita is hard on chains. Good luck
The sharpening is just a learning curve thing for me, I think.
Agree about the manzanita....
Oh yeah, if the cutter teeth are in good shape, check the raker tooth height, that can produce the symptoms you've described.
Thanks.
How annoying was I being when I got the Stihl out to cut an inch off the bottom of the Christmas tree at 8:20 PM? 30 seconds of noise for a much better cut than i can do with a handsaw, especially in the dark. It was a school night too. I do love me my old school .017. It has been running a lot better lately. And since I use it very rarely, I tend to make sure it has the $12 pre-mixed fuel in it when I am done. That has probably helped the most.
sounds^^ like a huge waste of time
I just used a pruning saw
I use premix in my weedwacker, which gets used 4 times a year at most.
Back to the rocket science of chain sharpening, anybody have experience using this raker height/angle tool? It's different that's the other husqvarna raker tool that I have and I'm struggling more than I'd suspect to figure the damn thing out.... <noob>
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3a71dd243a.jpg
whatever of the raker sticks up in the slot of that guage needs to be filed down
as for what Husky calls " the combi guage " :
-make sure you got the right color cuz the aluminium colored guage is for .325 and the blue anoidized is for 3/8ths chain
-look on the arrows cut into the frame of the guage they MUST point forward
-put the gauge on the chain, run the file parallel to the line etched on the tooth with both rollers turning and you are good
-Twist the file while moving it forward and you will feel it bite better
-do the same number of strokes on each side
-the number of strokes you do depends on how much you fucked up the chain so experiment with what you need
I file every 5 or 6 hr day of running the saw at the very least, the saw will run/faster/smoother with much less effort with a sharp chain
Its faster to carry 2 chains that you sharpened at home than to waste time filing a chain in the bush instead of cutting
Thanks.
That one pictured is for a 3/8 mini/picco chain. That raker thing is different than what they sell for the standard 3/8 and .325 chains, and the instructions nor anything else that I see online covers use of that different tool. The raker gauge for the other husky guides is more simple to me. That one pictured in my post doesn't seem to give options for wood hardness.
I agree. Chains last a long time if you don't hit the dirt, and you run a file over the teeth with every gas and oil refill. It only take a couple minutes to touch up the chain on refills.Quote:
Originally Posted by kootenayskier
I am assuming you got the right raker Guage for your chain of course but that's how they work
Im pretty sure i got the right kit https://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-531300080.axd
The gauge is different than the others and no useful instructions
very true!! the instructions for this guage ^^ are sketchy and that is for a 3/8ths chainQuote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
the raker guage works ok once you figure it out but I filed thru it so I bought a seperate guage which I leave at home cuz I don't file rakers every time
basicly the raker guage you bought sits on top of 2 teeth and exposes a certain amount of raker below & between the 2 teeth to file off
Thanks. That was my thought about how to use it, too (as in my picture ). It was just different than the other versions of the tool. It also doesn't seem to do that progressive angle thing that the other guides do from husky.
I think this episode of the rocket science of chain sharpening is over :)
Looking for some advice on what would be a good saw for use on my property. I've got a little over two acres wooded and would like a saw to buck and limb fallen trees for both firewood and to clear out the dead trees blocking paths and other areas. Its mostly pine, with a few maples. I don't plan on dropping anything to be honest, just want to clean-up and to supplement my wood pile.
A dozen years ago I spent a few summers on a trail crew at a resort running a saw, we used Stihl's but I can't remember the model for the life of me. I'd like to buy something that will last and won't give me any issues. Keeping it around $400 would be best, thanks.
I love cutting. Loyal to Stihl.
I assume you're looking for a new saw?
If small light saw with 14" bar is workable, a 193 CE could interest you. If you'll need a longer bar/more power take a look at the 271 (2x the power of a 193), both about 400 american dollars I think. 271 will be heavier.
I cut with an 18" 261 type in the trade and loved it. Easy to run all day. Great balance of weight and power, over 600 though.
I run a 25" 362 most often and love it. Bigger and spendier yet though.
Whatever you decide, make the acquaintance of a chainsaw whisperer, to tune the saw to your elevation. Bring it in annually (at minimum) for love. Run sharp chains. Stihl's last forever.
Happy cutting!
Are you going to buy new? Then go to your local reputable dealer and get the biggest Stihl or Husqvarna that fits your budget.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagamoron
Yes Buying new. There is a dealer of both by my house, I'll swing by there and check them out
If there's a good dealer nearby, look at Echo saws too. You'll likely get more saw for your money than husky or stihl.
Sthil vs Husky is like Ford vs Chevy but whats a bigger deal IMO is to buy a pro or forestry quality sawQuote:
Originally Posted by Sagamoron
they have metal engine cases instead of plastic, they rev higher, they have more HP and will last longer
they are also more money but you won't be burning a pro saw out and buying new one
Husky 455, not pro, but effective and dependable
This is good advice. Some asshole stole my CS 510 this fall. I loved that saw. It was way better built than comparably priced Stihl or Husky. 13 years old and ran like new, started every time first or second pull.Quote:
Originally Posted by kai_ski
I have a late 90's husky 55 that I feel this way about. Not a Rancher or 455. It's a metal cased saw, but not pro grade. The thing has worked flawlessly for me for two decades. I can always count on it firing right upQuote:
Originally Posted by AaronWright
That sucks. I picked up a NOS cs530 this fall.Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronWright
Did you do any mods or tuning to open up the 510?
My chaps are on their last legs and I'm thinking of going the pant route. Anyone have kevlar pants or coat? Recommendations?
I have the 450, it's heavy and it does not rev high enough, bomb proof, always starts. I've had it 10 yearsQuote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
you can fix the outer nylon with AQS but we were told once the kevlar is snagged pants or chaps should be replaced and make sure they have the chainspeed rating for whatever you are usingQuote:
Originally Posted by steepconcrete
I'm a skinny fucker so my chaps are always trying to fall down
I would think you wana find a good fit ?
back to sharpening rocket science: baileys claims that this roller guide is not for skiptooth chains, but i've seen other retailers clearly state the opposite. anybody have opinions/knowledge?
chain type question: chisel or semi chisel comp chain for my medium-sized saw.
my ms361 looks to be up and running well (finally). i'll likely soon mod the muffler because it looks really helpful with performance, is relatively cheap, and super easy and fast to do using a dremmel and husky deflector/screen. my current major use of the saw will be bucking all the big pine logs laying around my property. the saw came with a chisel skiptooth chain and 24" bar. that seems like a good type of chain to use for the big long cuts that i'll be doing a lot of in the near term.
i want to get a comp chain or two, also, for more general activities. one up-and-coming/recurrent task is clearing out dead manzanita on my property and harvesting dead/downed oak and madrone belonging to a friend. chisel or semi-chisel best for this? i was leaning towards semi-chisel.
thanks
Yea I'm looking at fit and durability. Also need new boots...Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
New boots? You can spend almost as much as buying ski boots...
White's, Nick's, Hawthorne, WESCO, Red Wing. Just like ski boots, if you're serious and will be walking in them a lot, not just standing there cutting, go to a good boot fitter and get measured and get proper boots. I still have my 25 year old Wescos as back up to my 10 year old Whites.
Poulan and their fucking proprietary carb mixture adjustment screws! Bastards! I guess for me it's time for another Husqvarna. Last time I lucked out and got a 1960s vintage old Husky with 36" bar at a pawn shop. The thing had no bells and whistles and ran perfectly for nearly 15 years (plus the many decades of use by whatever previous owner(s)). Now, I've gone through two crappy poulans (basically craftsman) in two years due to a multiplicity of issues.
Lesson learned: Go Husky or don't go at all. (Although I don't think the new Husqvarnas will last 40 years like my previous husky did.
Bastards? if you bought some cheap POS isnt that on you ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan Rover
Husky or Sthil is like ford vs chevy there ain't that much difference between brands and frankly they all look the same, maybe Dolmar or Echo are good but there arent any dealers around here so I never see them
IMO what you really wana do is go for a pro grade forestry saw from a dealer close to you where you can get support
As opposed to a homeowner saw the Pro has more power, higher chain speed, magnesium cases instead of plastic
yeah the pro grade saws are expensive but when I bought a pro saw it cost about the same as 3 poulans and when you buy a cheap saw you get the shittty quality of life at least until they die a premature death and you buy a real saw
I have put a pro sthil next to a homeowner sthil to buck a big stack of fire wood and its easy to tell the difference
AND btw I am pretty sure Poulan is one of the brands that is made by Husky
Some people can't get the hang of starting a Stihl. So there's that. Helps to read the owners' manual. I want whatever saw runs and does the job it is supposed to do.
Yeah I got a buddy who couldn't get the hang of starting his Husky, with a cold Sthil I go full choke till it barks once then go half choke ... its not the space shuttle eh ?
runs and does the job, so for how long and how well ... the reasons why you might wana buy a pro saw ?
i'm impressed with the serviceability of the pro saw that i bought used. stihl ms361. the thing was heavily abused and not maintained. i disassembled everything but the av system at least once. as an update to my issues upthread, i cleaned up the carb for a second time and this time put in a carb kit. it's been running great! (fingers crossed). my repairs and completion of the deferred maintenance was all relatively cheap. i had to buy a new clutch, but everything else was like spark plug, hoses, fuel filters, etc., which are all maintenance items anyway.
because the carb on that saw allows adjustment WOT (H setting), i'm gonna mod the muffler, which seems very simple. husky has a muffler deflector and screen that seems very easy to install over the new hole that i'm going drill.
Very happy with the muffler mod and general performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9cc82ec6fc.jpg
I have a cheap little electric that I couldn't care less about to prune small stuff around the yard.
Out of bar oil and no way I'm going to home depot on a Saturday.
Browsing around online and I see talk of veggie oil, that's fascinating.
Most of the yard tree pruning I do is around vegetable and herb plants. Had not occurred to me about flinging petrol everywhere.
Keeping in mind I'm not talking about a $500 Stihl, input?
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/chainsa...ve-101827.html
My research indicates that it isn't a problem so long as it doesn't sit in your saw.
Apparently bar oils, even the biodegradable kind, come with additives in them to prevent deposits, etc.
Have at it. Veggie oil will probably thin down and start to smoke real quick if it's not adequate...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
Like baseball, golf, or splitting wood, blade speed is key:
^^^Dude's a flailer (he's overswinging to make sure he gets a clean cut for the camera)...but with the grip he showed I can safely clear more of the right kind of small stuff with a $19 Collins machete and a $20 mill bastard file than you can with a $299 sawchain. Then after a 12hr day of it, I can go to the pub and play a guitar while you're crashed out on meds with your fucked up back.