Bad u joint
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Bad u joint
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Fixed
latest project car... 1995 BMW 540i 6spd manual. Only about 3500 were sold in the US. So pretty rare. 4 liter v8, sport seats, and needs a bunch of work, not least of all is it needs a new transmission. Luckily, I just happened to have a spare sitting around in the garage... So I grabbed it.
165k, $2k.
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^^^Great car.
I finally figured out the source of a slow coolant leak on my V50. It was a shitty hose clamp that came attached to a brand new hose (labelled FoMoCo) I installed hoping to solve that same leak. Didn't clamp hard enough. That'll teach me to rule out brand new parts as the source of a problem.
Getting out from under Ford sure seems to have worked wonders for Volvo. Hopefully this car isn't soon doomed by another part from the FoMoCo era. At least the Mazda chassis is pretty good.
Just takin it apart in anticipation of some paint... Next step sanding everything.Attachment 245722
Figured this was the right place to share this photo. Ball joint sheared in half a few weeks ago on the way into work. Fortunately I was only going 30 mph...
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Makin progress, most of the body filler work is done, and whole body is masked and sanded...
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No... I missed my old one so much, that when I saw this one with sport package I jumped. It likely will be my daily for a while. They are great great great daily drivers. Did I mention they are great?
Last one I had sold for $8k with just over 100k miles, and in need of a paint job. Otherwise it was pretty well sorted.
Got the primer down today.
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You're spraying the color in the garage too?
Yeah, why the hell not?
Bromo, I can help you find a good 540i. They are great cars, way better than the newer (e60+) ones in my opinion. e39 ones are good too, just need to watch those timing chain guides, or change them out if they are rattling, kind of a big job...
haha, gotta get the 3 golf bags in the trunk for the trip to the country club.
Those M5 are great. The e34 I am working uses the same transmission, in fact, I have a low mileage transmission coming from a donor M5 to put in my e34 as mine is buggered. Also, the s62 motor in there, is based on the m60 that is in the e34 540i, and the following m62 engine in the e39 540i. I look at those m5 quite a bit, but the ones that I see in my price range, always have the possibility of some expensive engine work. Rod bearings, sencondary air pump passageway gets clogged with carbon, etc.... Badass cars though, a guy in Park City Car Club recently bought a beautiful low miles one. Badass.
My dad had an e34. I loved that car.
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I had an audi b7 2.0t quattro 6spd manual. couldn't get rid of that thing fast enough. Piece of crap. The 2.0 can't get the car out of it's own way, and the turbo spools up quickly, so dealing with the clutch was a major hassle. Also, because of how the drivetrain is designed, with the engine sitting entirely in front of the front axle (front diff is in the transmission) the car didn't handle that well. Super heavy in the front compared to the better balanced BMWs. I tried to mitigate with stiffer springs, rear anti roll bar, and koni shocks, and it helped, but couldn't overcome the inherent problem. If someone gave me one of those, I would sell it and buy a bmw. Not an audi fan. Also the A/C destroyed itself at 60k miles to the tune of $2k. fuck that car.
In my humble opinion of course.
Find a 6cyl e90 328i with x drive and a manual, not real easy to find, but they are out there. The e90 start to get a bit finicky, but better platform than the audi.
Yeah stay away from the 35 model TT. They are problematic. I have not read about the tcase dying. We sold my wife's 5er, and tcase was fine, and my dad has an e91 wagon awd, and his tcase is fine. I have not heard of the problem. As far as the motors go, the 328 uses an inline 6 cyl, just like every bmw since the stone age. Smooth, plenty of power, and pairs much better with a manual transmission than any 4cyl turbo will. You just need the torque from the larger motor to get off the line.
Here you go, right up in Boise.
https://boise.craigslist.org/cto/d/2...686659389.html
I will say, the awd on the audi that I had was quite good. But that's it.
Google seems to indicate that changing the transfer case oil adds life, (duh) and there is an engagement gear that wears out and can be changed out cheaply and easily. But that is just 2 minutes of reading. I do have actual work to do. I just don't want to do it.
Can’t speak to the newer models but I currently have two e46 xi 5 speed tourings with well over 200k miles, zero issues on the transfer case’s...
E46 was not X drive. It had open diffs on all 3 spots, and uses the abs system to control traction.
We have an 06 330xi that has been pretty solid. It is the first year of the E90 but one year before the TT engine. Only has 77k but no issues with the transfer case. There was an issue early on with ticking sounds from the lifters but that was fixed under warranty. Very pleased with the car and plan to keep it for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bromontane
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Pics please...Quote:
Originally Posted by ctsmith
I really do like the e46 generation of cars. Very comfortable, and still a very engaging driving experience. The e90 slipped in driving dynamics in my opinion. I used to have a nice one. 03 sport package, manual 6 speed, 330xi. Was a very nice driving car.
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‘02 and ‘04, his and hers Craigslist scrounges at 100k + miles, always looking for stick shift wagons with cold weather package, xenons, non-gray interior and sport package...
Fun, useful cars, and not dreadfully complicated to work on.
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Chew need to bleed yer brakes mang.
Might need a bleed?
Should replace that whole line with either an OEM rubber or an aftermarket braided stainless. No fkn way I'd trust my life to a band clamp against 1000 psi.
Also, if the reservoir was empty, there's probably air in the lines. A full bleed job will be necessary once the busted line is replaced.
That's a 2wd 4.9L 6, right? The line will cost like $10 on rockauto and maybe twice that in a store. Worth looking at the other 3, too.
That hose clamp is not safe. Replace the line properly because it'll be a disaster if it comes off while driving. Those clamps are not made to hold that kind of psi.
Second, you need to bleed your brakes. The lines have air in the system so that is why you are not getting any pedal pressure.
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The center rear is the flex, the 3/16" hard lines go from block to each rear drum. That hose on the line block looks like a differential vent, not a brake line.
If you need to loosen or replace brake lines, a set of flare nut wrenches will keep you from rounding soft fittings. Offset brake bleed wrenches make life easier too.
Like the man says!Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
But expect those nuts on the brake line to be one real son of a whore to break loose. Plenty of your favorite penetrating fluid on (snicker) pb blaster etc. Might consider cutting the line close to the nut and fitting a hex socket for better grip.
Oddly enough I blew a main brake line in my beater Dakota a few days ago and I'm waiting on 25 ft of nickel copper brake line (amazon $38) and a flaring tool to replace the whole rusty ass mess from front to back.
Nickel copper because it doesn't rust, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
For the general crew to answer: My 06 Outback (with 93k miles) has been sitting in the corner of the driveway since November because the rubber brake lines in the rear rotted and are seeping fluid and the pedal got mushy but some of the hard lines started to rust since it's been sitting for so long. All else around the car appears to be ok but is there anything I should look at before I resurrect it and put it back on the road? We're going to need it for the winter because I don't trust the 200k Durango anymore to not strand me somewhere.
Yeah.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Before you start it, check the oil level, then pull the fuse(s) for the ignition and crank it with a few 10 second bursts to get oil back into the heads and mains.
Likely that besides the flexible brake lines that you'll need to replace (+ full bleed), the rotors will have a lot of surface rust and will make a horrible sound (and might not stop that well). If they look bad, I'd just replace those and throw in some new pads to complete the brake job.
Coolant level, power steering fluid. Clean the mice out of the air filter and maybe the cabin filter, too.
gravity bleeding takes longer but usually does the trick
Doesn't rust, easier to bend and to flare. Costs a little more than steel but seems like it's going to be worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Good luck with the resuscitating the Outback. Our 07 still running pretty well at 140k. But get ready to do the timing belt after it's up and running. Going much past 100k is really pushing your luck.
The gas could be a little past it too. But I'd defer to someone with a little more knowledge on that issue. Norseman?
Not much experience with old gas. 9 months isn't that old, but the ethanol in today's fuel absorbs water more readily (fuck you corn subsidies) so a full tank of it might be crap.
If the tank is less than half full, I'd probably just fill it up with 93 and a can of Seafoam. If it's close to full, maybe drain/syphon... if it runs poorly.
Interested to hear other takes on that.
edit: was the clamp already there? im not 100% convinced thats a high pressure brake lineQuote:
Originally Posted by Todd Zander
For the old gas I think Norse is about right. Top off the tank or at least a can of seafoam to get to the station. Run it. You'll know in fairly short order if it's bad. Likely not, it's gasoline.
Flowing - plainly Bleeding is your missed step. No big deal and easy to do. Not sure that rubber hose is a brake line either as highangle said. Either way a new clamp at a minimum. The key here is whenever you put a wrench etc. on a nut or fitting, get as perfect a bite as possible and do not strip the flats so the nut gets rounded. Dangit!. If the shit goes south, even the fuckups are pretty easy to workaround, what with all the gearheads up in heah...A little patience goes a long way with brakes.
A can of brakleen is cheap and will clean a lot of that crap off. Brake fluid can eat through stuff...
Just replaced oil/filter, rotors, pads, and a few missing lugs on the old Pathy last week. That and a bleed session to recalibrate the first gen ABS module.
BTW - when you get a friend to pump the brakes as you bleed them from below, make sure they are not almost deaf. FUUUUUG.
And finally, what's with the sheared ball joint? WTF?
Yeah, need to definitively find the leak and then decide how best to tackle it. If it's squirting, that should be easy.
Alpy:
Hissing you can hear from driver's seat=vacuum brake booster normal operation.
Booster is that big round thing between master cylinder and firewall. It needs vacuum to work, so without the engine running, it's only good for a few pedal pumps before the pedal firms from lack of boost.
You live in the PNW. Use DOT 3 fluid only. DOT 4 absorbs moisture faster, and moisture inside corrodes and freezes brake lines and brake internals.
Regular maintenance is flush the brake system every 2 years. Start with all new fluid in reservoir, then bleed until you get new urine yellow fluid coming out the bleed valves at the ABS valve and all 4 wheels (ABS RR LR RF LF).
Kano Kroil is expensive, but cheap. Best creeping oil out there. Will loosen stuck bolts and fittings like no other.
Brake fluid eats paint and blinds people who get it in their eyes. Keep the shit off paint and out of your eyes, FFS.
Search for shop diagrams of the brake system in your truck. It's simple, and with the exception of the RABS, was basically unchanged for 40 years. It's a solid reliable design.
You may have to get it fixed, but knowing what the parts are and how it works will put you in good stead with your mechanic.
Buena suerte.
Vice grips -- the fat girl of the tool bag. You know you're going home with her so why dance around with all of those other bitches first.
At least that the story of my parallel struggle with a rotted brake line in an aged pick up today here on the opposite coast from Alpy.
Identified the leak in the 8 foot length of hard line from the front junction to the rear axle (where it splits to the right and left wheels. Its facked and had already been butchered with a couple of compression fittings by the previous owner. So I get it set up on jack stands and dose up the junction with a flex line on the axle end with PB blaster and wait while. I'm sort of desperate to get this apart because I'm envision having to change every line on the son of a bitch if I can't break this joint apart.
So Then I go at it with my flared wrenches for a while. That was a nice warm up. So then I cut the line and jam a six point socket on it (backing it with the flared wrench). Thanks for playing. On to plan V, the vise grips. Finally I get a little something going, making 1/32 turns and resetting. Half an hour later I get my nut off (so to speak). And I guiltily stuff the vise grips back in my tool bag before any of my friends can catch me with them.
We actually did the timing belt last fall just before the brake lines crapped out so should be good there. Yeah this thing runs well but looks like it's been through the wringer, suburban parking lots and such...Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
Yup cranked it that way after it sat all last winter before starting it back up. I ran the gas down to when the light kicked on then put a fresh gallon in. I do pull it out occasionally and run it up and down the street at night (unregistered and the brakes don't work too well so I don't want to take it any further than on my dead end) and will drag the brakes down the hill to clean the rotors. Fluids appear ok but I can't imagine they're any good anymore so when I put it back on the road I'll change them out before imparting too much confidence in their ability to lubricate and cool things well. I didn't think of the filters, good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
That rubber tube is the axle vent line. Notice how it is routed up towards the bed. That clamp will more than suffice. The other lines are brake main supply then caliper supply lines. Don’t need a friend to bleed. Fill a mason jar about 2” from the bottom. Route clear hose from bleed valve on wheel caliper. Open bleed valve a couple turns. Open main reservoir on master cylinder under hood. Fill it up. Pump brake. Check master reservoir, top off. When the wheel you are working on has clean fluid with no bubbles in the tube, tighten bleed valve. Go to next wheel and so on. Should take about an hour to complete.
Edit: see others already mentioned the axle vent. Also thought you found the source of the leak? If not that’s first then repair that then Bleed them.
Norsemans Seafoam suggestion on the fuel issue is spot on. Once you run that tank, put 5 gals of fresh to another full can of seafoam and run that tank down. Fill tank with new fuel.
*** KROIL
*** SEAFOAM
Mechanical lifesavers.
I'm laughing at the wrenching plan of attack - ' this better work because this shits gonna get extra real if it doesn't '.
Avoid plan B.
I didn't think that was a brake line so 2Funky's got it dialed for ya.
Buncha damn mechanics over here, cool. Any TDI wrenchers?
POTD!Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction