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Question on taping the drill bit to ensure that you don't go too deep. I taped the drillbit at 9mm but when I did my first test drill into an old ski everything went fine but then when i drilled into an 2x4 the tape had moved up the bit due to ski/wood going intot he bit an pushing the tape but thus going too deep. How do you prevent this without using a bit collar?
yeah IME tape will move and so can a set screwed collar for that matter SO I use a wine bottle cork as a positive stop
Drill a hole thru the middle of a cork, slide the bit up or down in the chuck so the exact amount of depth you want is protruding from the cork and tighten the chuck, this way the hole can only be as deep as whatever bit you can see and if the drill bit does happen to slip it can only be less deep as opposed to drilling thru your base
make sure you sober up before using the cork
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Just push the drill bit into the drill until the desired depth is left. I recently mounted 3 pairs of skis this way. It's idiot proof.
Same idea as the cork but I don't think you can get the bit far enough into the chuck which is why i use the cork which is easy to drill thru, a piece of wood will also work
If the home brew methods are giving you trouble, just buy the proper bit. It's a relatively small investment that will probably last you a lifetime of mounts.
$15
http://www.tognar.com/binding-drill-...-adult-junior/
I did my first mounting of my own fucking skis (Dynafit Speed Radicals on Lotus 138 Pures): success, but kind of cheated. I borrowed SlobMonster's Dynafit jig, which made things pretty easy. At his suggestion, I drilled them first for a normal screw mount and tested the fit, then redrilled for inserts. One toe screw is slightly tight (must be off like 1mm), but everything goes down fine.
Still, I totally plan on doing it for all my future skis... way easier than I figured, especially with the right tools.
Start saving your money for a jigarex. Awesome investment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Yeah... I've been eyeing it covetously, especially if I continue current trends of a new pair every year, possibly changing mount points, etc. It would probably take a while to actually come out ahead, but I feel like I did a better job (especially with inserts) than I see coming out of the shop... zero volcano on my work.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeroforhire
Ugh. After not finding templates, decided to just bolt down this Literail thingy on my daughter skis. Bolts all aligned, but somehow I managed to slip the whole thing off the boot center on one ski by about 5 mm forward. I think I looked at wrong marker.
I moved front and rear binding by one click on rails, and end result is that boots are in about the same spot, with couple mm off at most. Not sure if the rail off will have any ill effects.
Not keen on re drilling as it is a light foam core kid ski, and I mounted on marine epoxy.
Mounted my own fucking skis again
This time I remounted solly 900S to an old school 1080 mogul ski
Easy.Attachment 162260
Been lurking a while but, thanks to this thread and all the awesome information passed on by many, I mounted my own effing skis last night. Measured thrice, drilled once, and all was good.
Can't see ever paying for that service again. Thanks, TGR!
(Can't post photo 'cause I'm new)
Why do the bits have a thread beyond the 9.5mm portion where the diameter gets significantly larger? Is there much of a chance to go beyond the intended depth?Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasGortex
It gives you a little bit of a countersink to the hole. Helps prevent volcanoes. But you do need a light touch or you could get a little too much countersink.Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Not all do, mine doesn't, hits a straight flats that you CANNOT drill past.Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43
Truly proofed against this idiot.
If you pushed really fucking hard, you could probably force it through. Otherwise, it stops and even smooths down the surface around the hole. So, I'd say no chance unless that was your goal.Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Good to know. The ones I have seem to countersink pretty easily. I've got a tool to countersink by hand, which is much more controlled IMO. What drill bits are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
I have the BindingFreedom bit, which seems to sink down if you push too hard (probably because insert drill dia. isn't that much smaller than the pre-milled drill tool dia.) , and the the BF countersink/debur tool, which works awesome. The area around the inserts I've done with it is perfectly smooth, unlike that around shop-installed normal mounts.
Wish I had know these existed before I order the other ones. I've used a dremmel to countersink in the past (prior to buying a real mounting bit) and would prefer the idiot proofing.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Also, the 5/16"/8mm shank portion is designed to fit in mounting jigs and guides, including Jigarex and SVST.Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43
Attachment 162585
Mounted up these at the beginning of the season. Only had to remount the Lhasa heels for my bsl. Couldn't find a template for my daughters skis so I made one from the skis they came off. Did all these in an evening after work.
Used the bit and 1st mount was a success! Agreed that unless I was trying the bit just countersunk slightly and would be hard to go to deep. Thanks all.
Mounted the lady's nordica hells belles with Sth10 binders. hand tools by slidewright
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...hmentid=162692
Attachment 162692
Mounted up some more of my own fucking skis. Reshuffled the quiver and pulled some Sollys off of some S3s, plugged the holes with dowels and epoxy, and remounted with EPF tours. I'm embarrassed to admit this was the first time I've mounted skis without having a beer(s), but in my defense, it was the middle of the day.
I have an older Dynafit Jig. Have tried a couple different ways to get the front holes, which have worked, but not perfectly. Good mounts, but maybe not precise enough if I want to go to inserts.
Have had similar issues with other stuff, with the binding exactly where I want it, maybe held by a screw or 2, want to precisely center punch the binding holes.
Got these.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...122_142839.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...122_142845.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...122_142936.jpg
I think this may end up working well to get Fritchi heels lined p as well.
What I have been looking for was something that fit into the binding to use the binding as a jig.
Just freehanded some old Naxos. Put the middle heel screw in first, and basically used the binding as a Jig, going one step at a time insured that the bar went in and out of the heel piece easily.
Pretty quick mount. Faster than paper jigs for me.
So regarding these stepped Armada bits since I've never seen one. I can just use a 3.6 and then chase the hole down (how many) mm from the top with a 4.1 and accomplish the same thing?
Not sure the specifics of an Armada bit... but if you are drilling a metal topsheet and need a 4.1mm, you really only NEED the 4.1 to get through the metal layer on the topsheet... so 3.6mm for most of the hole and a little bit of 4.1 at the top should be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
I've done 5-10 armada mounts with just a 3.6 and the grip strength of a small ape. no issues.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Shroom, those Armadas you drilled had metal though? The specific ski I was mounting is the ARVti. I think 3.6 without the 4.1 chase on the ARVti would create Mt. Vesuvius when I tightened things down.
naw, no metal. I thought they'd always pushed their stepped bit, regardless of metal presence. I've honestly always just used 3.6, metal or not on my skis, but I should probably not recommend that.
Probably, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Do you have access to an #12AB tap? It's ski screw thread matched and is a very good idea with metal topsheets to further reduce the chance of volcanoes.
If you do this, the hole and threads will be appropriate regardless of whether your drill bit is 3.6mm or 4.1mm (and you should anyway with Titanal in the binding mount area). Countersink or shave the topsheets over the holes as well, even when drilled with the right bit there will be a tiny bit of volcano-ing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
The tap is a good idea, I do not have one in my tool kit, so this mount is a good excuse to finally buy one. So I can achieve the same result by drilling a 3.6 hole and using just the tap? I ask because it would eliminate the rather delicate step of chasing the 3.6 hole with a 4.1, and the less steps, the better.
I've never tried tapping a 3.6 for a metal topsheet because I have 3.6 and 4.1 collared ski bits... so I drill the 4.1 and tap. If you're ordering the tap anyway, I don't think the 4.1 bit is much more to add to your order... but it's up to you. And if you're ordering things anyway, I highly recommend having 10-20 of the nylon tap-in inserts sitting around. They're super cheap and a very effective way to deal with any spinners you get (without having to use heli-coils).Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
But it sounds like it's OK from what gregL says.
These are the inserts...
http://www.slidewright.com/nylon-tap...serts-10pk.php
Post script... I didn't see a stop-collared 4.1 bit on slidewright.... I personally don't like the idea of the bits the bevel the hole at the same time... I prefer to change bits and do that myself. One step for getting the depth perfect and another to clean it up.
I have the 3.6 and 4.1 chamfer bits...somewhere. I have not used them much lately because I've been doing all my mounts w/ inserts. But this friend does not want them.
I'm going to order that tap though.
Was not aware of those nylon inserts, which seem better than steel wool and epoxy. I learn something new everyday on TGR, thanks. ;)
This. For years.Quote:
Originally Posted by shroom
No worries. I can't remember where I read it, but I think it was on this board somewhere... but someone did some pull-out tests and compared these with heli-coils and brass inserts and some other stuff... and the nylon inserts were as good or better pull-out strength than heli-coils. And super easy to install... 5/16" bit with a collar on (and I put some epoxy in there because the hole is large and open), tap in insert, put in binding screw and done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
+1 for the nylon inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
I am 2 for 2 in this endeavor. Just takes longer to drill. Make sure your drill battery is fresh.Quote:
Originally Posted by shroom
FUCK the FKS brake spring /tantrum