The Speedfit uses the same hole pattern for the toe piece as the Radical (not the newer 2.0 version) and a few other Dynafit bindings, but it uses a different and unique pattern for the heel piece.
https://skimo.co/tech-binding-hole-patterns
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The Speedfit uses the same hole pattern for the toe piece as the Radical (not the newer 2.0 version) and a few other Dynafit bindings, but it uses a different and unique pattern for the heel piece.
https://skimo.co/tech-binding-hole-patterns
Come on snow!
Attachment 485420
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What's the best practice for filing down a protruding helicoil?
I'm mounting up a pair of skis for a friend. They've been drilled 2.5x before, with a couple helicoils in each ski. Some of them are protruding. I plan to file them down with a flat file and follow up with epoxy to seal moisture out. Is there a better way? I was thinking a dremel might work too but may be tricky to hold steady.
I guess file or coarse stone. On the Dremel front, the flexible extensions really help on detail grinding and cutting.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SX679_.jpg
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Dremel nice n easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brasso
Hell yes. Nice rig.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Rad, thanks dudes.Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
If you have a pair of sidecutters you can clip the protruding coil end in a lot of cases.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brasso
This is a personal pet peeve of mine - prior mounts and plugs that protrude from flush.Quote:
Originally Posted by stec06
I just use a nice new sharp razor blade (not attached to anything). Cuts real easy through the bit of plastic plugs that always end up mushroomed on top after hammering them in - and volcanoed top sheet plastic, so everything is flush.
4 pairs mounted so far this season. Moment Night Trains, Old School Praxis Concepts, J Skis Masterblasters (using inserts), and another pair of Praxis concepts (forgot to take a photo of them after swapping the toes for STH2).
Attachment 485872
Attachment 485873
The real question is what bindings do I put on the Saucerboy Blades (using inserts)? I feel like my Gold Pivot 15s are the correct choice…
Although I could do Attack 13 Demo bindings if I wanted to be benevolent and let some friends try them out from time to time.
Choices, choices [emoji848]
Attachment 485874
Attachment 485875
Those are awesome!
Go with the demos. Those boards are meant to be shared.
Felt like the right time with the tide coming in
the matte top sheet is top-notch, giving them a go first thing in the morning
EDIT: they rip!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...14bdbf62b7.jpg
Helicoils are damned hard metal. I think dremel is the right answer. Carbide bit?Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
Ok, JONG stuff
I’ve never really liked how my AT rig skis and am getting motivated to change it up.
I finally decided to look up the ramp angle on the AT bindings vs my alpine skis. I never considered this as I’ve never been in a position to A/B different ramp setups to understand the fuss I see on TGR about shimming toes. I just figured it was nerds nerding out.
Look HM12 (Dynafit rotation 12): 13mm delta
Salomon STH2 13: 6mm
Tyrol is Attack 13: 4mm
When I go look up something like an ATK freeraider, I find 7mm of ramp delta. Much more in line with the SHT2 & Attack
Is this the weirdness that’s annoyed me these last few years?
And the fix would either shim the AT toe? Or replace the binding with a more compatible ramp binding?
It could be the ramp throwing you off...or the boots, or the skis, or wearing a much bigger/heavier pack (combined with skis/boots lighter weight.)Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
You'll never really know until you do a bit of intentional testing. Shimming toes--if you're able to do it yourself--is a relatively inexpensive way to alter your setup, potentially for the better. Shimming radicals (same ramp as rotation) was a big help to me. I find anything >10 I dislike, but I'm pretty OK with variation between 4 and 10.
Different boots also have different internal ramp angles which is part of the equation....
it’s easiest to measure all of it if you can use the same boot in both your setups. Caliper from ski top sheet to same points on the bottom of the boot toe and heel in both setups. Then shim from there and ski the at setup and see how it feels. There are some people that aren’t delta sensitive and some that are, I am delta sensitive and actually shim the heels of kingpins.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
It’s the same boots for both (really: all).
I have had zero issues going between pivots, attacks and STH2s…its just the pin setup that has always felt wonky
Sounds like giving the toe shim a try is the way to go then. There could certainly be other issues, but as noted above, shimming the toe piece is relatively easy and inexpensive, and seems like a good first step to diagnose.
If you do move on to something else, I’ve loved my time on the Trofeo Plus so far, which has a very low delta and feels similar to my pivots.
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Totally get that. Single boot makes it easy. If you go on the interwebs you can find different thickness’s of hdpe sheets and make shims quickly that don’t have to be pretty while you are testing. I usually. 5mm sheets and 2mm sheets are pretty common. Use your toe pieces as hole patterns. Make sure that you acquire screws as well to accommodate the shims. Measure the screws in your bindings now and add the appropriate shim height to the length. Make sure the screw heads are the same, some times two screws are different then the other two. If you can only find longer ones you can grind them to the correct height.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
1mm = 2.6 degrees I think, so a 6-7mm difference is a huuuuuge difference in stance - even if some touring boots are a fair bit more upright than their 50/50 or resort brethern.
So yeah, binding delta is the correct place to start. I had the same realization over the last couple of years. I can adjust to a mm or two, but outside that it is almost like I can't ski.
This I'm interested in.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
I have two pair of Head Kore 105's. One that has a Lange RS 130/Pivot setup. The other has the Dynafit Vulcan, the old green and black model/Look HM-12. Both skis are the same length and are mounted on the rec line. I love the way the Lange/pivot set-up skis, the AT set up not as much. To me it almost feels like the Vulcan is much more upright? Has anyone ever shimmed a heel piece to create a little more forward lean? It feels like it is harder to push on the shovels with the Vulcan's.
Maybe it wont matter. I just picked up a Zero G 105 188cm that I'm going to put the HM-12 on. Will see how they ski.
Thx, all, for the comments. I’ll do some testing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Pabst
cant shim a Vulcan sole.
"Harder to push on the shovels" sounds like a need for a toe shim, not a heel shim. You're getting that activation point further away from the ball of your foot otherwiseQuote:
Originally Posted by Fred Pabst
that’s not entirely true. If I don’t shim my heels on kingpins I can’t get on the shovel of my ski. It has to do with how each person is built anatomically, their ability and and how they learn to ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ørion
Totally, and with the understandable caveat that armchair quarterbacking biomechanics over the Internet is definitely a fool's errand, he was comparing a relatively flat Pivot to a touring binding that already has 10mm+ higher delta. If the issue is binding delta, even more isn't likely the answer.
Especially given his Alpine boot has less forward lean than his touring boot in their stock configurations (which might have been adjusted obviously).
Easy way to get a ballpark idea though would be to click into the skis and place magazines under the heel or toe areas (under the ski itself, not between boot and binding) and see which way feels more "planted" with a solid three points of contact under the foot.
Thanks! Very interesting. Feel is not always real. It feels like I need to shim up the heal, but in reality I need to lift the toe up to create a little more ankle flex. I'm going to give the toe shim a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ørion
Yeah, I agree. The way I think of it, is if you shim the toe, it gives you something to push against.
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Don't Vulcans have a ~17 degree forward lean? Lange RS has like 14 degrees? And the dynafits have a crazy high delta vs. your pivots, I think the heel pins are +13mm.
I know what you're experiencing because I used to ski Mercuries on verticals, and it was an almost unskiable combination. It felt like I was standing on the ski in high heels, which instantly put me in the back seat.
More ramp questions, sorry...is there a thread on this already? I can post there but haven't really found it yet.
I measured with digital calipers, but there's a certain amount of eyeballing to target the common spots. This is what I get when I measure my gear:
Boot is 27.5; BSL is 310
All skis mounted on the recommended line
Look HM12
Pin hgt - Toe: 36mm
Pin hgt - Heel: 51mm
Delta = 15mm
Sole hgt - Toe [@ leading edge of sole AFD block]: 23mm
Sole Hgt - Heel [@ heel AFD]: 29mm
Delta = 6mm
Salomon STH2 13
Pin hgt - Toe: 32mm
Pin hgt - Heel: 45mm
Delta = 13mm
Sole hgt - Toe [@ leading edge of sole AFD block]: 18mm
Sole Hgt - Heel [@ presumptive touring heel “AFD” location]: 25mm
Delta = 7mm
Pin
Attachment 487400
Alpine
Attachment 487401
1st: Am I measuring the right things?
If so: It actually doesn't seem like the ramps are much different at all. 2mm of differential in pin deltas; 1mm in sole height differential. That's likely within my accuracy tolerance...
And ^^^ this seems at odds with how I read about ramp delta online. Various online lists indicate delta numbers like in my 1st post with more like 6-7mm of differential between the bindings.
Barring some fundamental error, I'm thinking whatever my issue is with my AT rig, it's not ramp.
Maybe just need a lesson :)
Thanks for any assistance!
Published list of tech binding pin heights/deltas:
https://skimo.co/pin-heights
Interesting. I think your measurement method is valid. The STH2 delta from toe AFD to heel is +6mm, but each boot has it's own characteristics that influence the actual delta of your foot over the ski.
I wouldn't have expected the STH2 to net out so similarly to the dynafits, but seeing is believing I guess.
Might of missed it earlier, but you're enjoying skiing the STH2 rig with the Roxas? Or are you skiing those with a different boot?
Yeah, pretty happy -- new this season (tho old version). previous boot was a Lupo ax120 w/ 130 tongue. It seemed like a natural next boot. So far so good.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
this is exactly what I did and the exact reason I ended up shimming heels on kingpins to match jesters. I also shimmed an alpinist almost 3/8” of an inch to match jesters. Both at setups then responded and acted like alpine. I shimmed 1mm to start on my kingpins and ended up adding another 1mm after testing. Try shimming the heel. Everyone here told me I was wrong and to shim the toes. My measurements told me differently and that every one here was wrong. What you are doing in real life is actually figuring out the issue with proof, the printed lists are pretty useless when comparing at and alpine clamps.
I think my numbers would suggest shimming the toe, but otherwise that makes sense.
Maybe my 2mm is the pea in the mattress.
I have a buddy with a laser cutter so next step is make some 0.5 & 1mm shims — is there anyway to somehow not make screws for each variation? I’m thinking: no, if I’m going to ski them. I guess if I started on the upper range first, I could grind the same set of screws down as I went along.
(Almost seems worthwhile to throw some inserts in there too for this effort…)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
you either need to shim the heel of the look 1mm or the toe of the sth 1mm. I would just make a 1mm shim for the heel of the look and be gentle on your screws and use hood wood glue.
for clarity, not arguing...i wanna make sure i'm hitting the right thing :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
I'm seeing more delta in the Look binding (15mm), than the STH2 (13mm). [just using the pin numbers] Meaning the Look heel is higher than the STH2 heel, relative to toe position. So shimming the toe of the Look will reduce this ramp to match the STH2. Or am I getting this backwards?
Your 1mm suggestion would make it all simpler. If I feel improvement but not satisfaction, I can pursue it further.
Might even be able to keep screws...as long as I've still got 6mm of screw embedment length in the ski I should be good?
I don’t understand why the difference in your deltas is opposite depending on measuring pins or boot sole. Should they not be same/similar? Measurement error??
you said the look is 6mm. The sth 7mm. Make the look 7mm. Add to the heel 1mm. Stack height of overall binding is irrelevant in comparison to your numbers. Match your delta measurements.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::