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Headset is a good place to check. it is most noticeable when standing and cranking on the bars. Bike is probably due for a teardown and regrease on a bunch of parts.
The only carbon I have on either mtb is in rims, I like the stiffness and hopefully they last longer. Alloy everything else because I am 200lbs+ and prefer durability over lightweight.
What did I just do to my Topaz T3? Had a great, chunky ride last night, but noticed sag (at about 210 psi) was closer to 35% and I still wasn't getting the last 3mm of travel despite a 3' drop to flat, so tonight I let the air out of the shock, slipped off the air sleeve o-ring and then the air sleeve, removed the single volume spacer I had on the positive side (leaving me with none on pos or neg), slid the air sleeve back on, put the o-ring in place, aired up (equalizing in 50# increments) to 220pis, and now I can bottom the shock by hand pressure even though the pump (still attached) shows 220#. I'm perplexed. Also 2 beers in, but it's a pretty straightforward operation that I've done previously. Didn't touch the bladder, and the pump seems to be working correctly (if I detach and then re-attach to the schraeder valve, it shows I've got pressure in the air sleeve).
Another suspension pressure question.
Pump up to the desired pressure, remove pump, reattach pump to check the pressure and it' s a few psi less. Do I need to add that amount to the target psi or is the gauge correct after inflation and it takes a few psi to fill the shock pump hose?
Am I over thinking this?
The nerds at bike rumor covered that one
https://bikerumor.com/2018/10/11/sus...-a-shock-pump/
Cool. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Sounds like a damaged seal between the positive and negative chambers.Quote:
Originally Posted by NuMexJoe
Thanks, toast. That kinda makes sense, as I wasn't really seeing any pressure drop on the gauge as I was doing the every-50# equalization. I'll pull the air sleeve again and see if I nicked the seal when I slid it back on yesterday. {edit: You nailed it. The seal was pinched. It was opposite the side I where I was sitting so I didn't see it as I slid the air sleeve back on. Time to order a kit, unless I get lucky on the o-ring selection at the hardware store. Thx again.}Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Do Shimano 12-speed hubs use cup and cone loose bearings? Or cartridge?
Looking at a possible bike with SLX Shimano hubs, boost + super boost, and wondering if the hubs are decent.
I think Shimano are always cup and cone all the way up to XTR.
Decent in that they will work and be manufacturered accurately. They will not make Redbull edit worthy buzzing noises. Engagement will not be using a 2000 tooth driver either. So pretty much unusable for a dentist bike
This could turn into 15 pages, but I certainly have seen ball and cone hubs vastly outlive some cartridge bearing hubs. And often they run smoother. I will have a new XTR wheel tonight, I’ll post a long range review in a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I excel at destroying cartridge bearings in rear hubs. Front hubs seem to last fine though.
I don't mind cup and cone at all. All the Shimano hubs I've ever had have been fine - and none have been through axle, so wasn't sure if Shimano had changed to cartridge with through axle hubs.
I was an idiot with a torque wrench and snapped off one of the steerer tube stem bolts from my brand new race face turbine. Anyone know what size stem steerer tube bolts usually are? Saw some talk of m5? M6? Are replacements readily available? Saw some titanium bolts for sale on line but what’s the deal with the strength on those? The site says only to torque them to 5nm which doesn’t seem likely to keep the stem from moving around on the steerer? Any help is appreciated, in the mean time, I’ll be cursing and attempting to fish the broken end out of the threads.
Usually m5, between 16-20mm.
Cheers thanks man!Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
That’s fucked. That’s a bad bolt from a bad batch of bolts. Talk to Race Face.
I’ll be curious to hear whether you can salvage the stem.
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I would assume once you get the faceplate off the bolt would be rather easy to remove, no?Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
The steerer bolts on those stems should have a clean hole on the back side (not a blind hole). You can punch a centering hole on the bolt and use a drill bit to start in that hole. Once the drill bit catches the soft bolt, it should spin clockwise and continue to thread it self out the back side of the bolt hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
If you dont want to risk the chance it wont spin out the back side (or if someone else if faced with a broken bolt in a blind hole) a set of left hand drill bits are a great saver. They catch/bite into the material and then spin the broken bolt right out of the blind hole.
Best $20 I've ever spent in the my tool collection.
~5nm is pretty standard torque for stem bolts. Raceface usually stamps the torque specs on their stems, but I vaguely recall the turbine being 4.5 nm.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
That said, if it were me, I'd just replace with a $0.50 stainless bolt from the hardware store.
This. Once tension is off, and the faceplate is out of the way, the stub should thread out easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Not the handle bar clamp. It was his steerer tube clamp bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
30 yars of doing fasteners without breaking them so I never use a tork wrench on bikes,
I just do it up till it snaps and then back off 1/4 turn
M5x16mm SHCS will work for the steerer clamp bolt on a Turbine.
Thank you for your accurate reading comprehension.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Yup, very slim chance of success.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Buy a new stem
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-Pr.../dp/B00C4Z00Q8
I snapped the head off one of the steerer tube bolts on an I-9 stem, also despite using a torque wrench. I was able to carefully drill it out through trial and error, but it took about an hour going back and forth from each side. Eventually I was able to catch the broken stub enough with the bit and screw it through to the point I was able to grab it with pliers and screw it through the rest of the way. I did mangle the beginnings of the threads a little bit with the drill bit, but after the first time threading a new bolt in it seems to go in fine.
Moral of the story is don't trust torque specs if they say 7n-m for an M5. Stop at 5n-m. That's snug enough that it won't move. Remember, bar clamps are like 3n-m, so 5 is a bit more than that.