Anyone else get some today...?
Swell is pumping on the slab. 7.4'@14s. A little mixed up with some wind swell bump intermixed, but still some fun solid surf out there. My session was cut short when I stood up on a wave, started down the line and hit some chop or something that threw my board up the lip awkwardly, and folded my ankle. Stage two sprain. It was a journey crawling up the beach, climbing a 60' cliff and walking back to my car. Bummed. On the couch watching Walking Dead.
Edit: broken fibula. Fuck.