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Some juice in the water yesterday. I surfed 48th street in Newport and it was bigger than I expected, head high and jacking up. I got pitched and slammed a few times, but I also got a couple that really lined up nicely. The water is in the high 60's, maybe 68 or so. I did not expect it to be as big as it was yesterday, I thought shoulder high, so this was a surprise.
i've only tried surfing a few times (afraid of sharks, mostly, and not going to try to learn after knee replacement), but this stuff is hard to watch
https://www.instagram.com/p/BWysSPBjGDY/
^^^^ you do realize you are much more likely to get die skiing than be bitten by a shark. Hell, your more likely to break your neck on the sand bottom of a beach break than get bitten. Sure, sharks can be scary but they don't typically hunt humans. Except in Florida and Reunion.
Heard Jones Beach was thumping yesterday. Any east coasters know if a swell is running or was my buddy just a city dwelling land loving kook?
Edit: just watched vid. Dude clearly is clueless. WTF is he trying to climb on that rock for when there is a beach 15' away.
yeah, i didn't say it was a rational fear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
My academic and professional background is in statistics and actuarial mathematics, and I am still more afraid than I should be, despite the numbers AND the fact that I am in the ocean several days a week. So I get the part about it not being a rational fear. I'm still scared. It does not keep me out of the water, but it is in my head more than it should be. Luckily Newport spots tend to be very close to shore, so easy to get to the beach if you get cruised. About a month ago a guy told me he got chased out of the water at 30th street. By getting chased I mean he saw a fin and exited, not that he was actually pursued.Quote:
Originally Posted by wyeaster
I don't have any idea what he is thinking. I can't think of a rational reason why someone with any experience would do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
I figure it might be that getting eaten by a wild animal is likely a pretty shitty way to die. Or not die. So sorry get it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Long duc dong
Spook, you could find a place that is not sharky and take up knee boarding. From what I understand it puts very little stress on the joint, especially if you have a board with a deck pad. The only issue is the pressure on the calf/knee from kneeling.
I knew boarded for about 6 months when recovering from a broken fib. While it never came close I stand up surfing for me, it was still a lot of fun. And I think my issues we (1) I don't know how to knee board as it is different dynamics and (2) I was riding a board that was designed as a 5'2" fat
fish, so it likely did not ride properly and (3) I prefer standing to kneeling.
That said, it made chest high waves feel like head high waves and it was easier to get into small barrels.
my fear of sharks started at age 8 when i was lured into reading the first chapter of jaws by the naked lady on the front. fucked. me. up.
that said, i would consider knee-boarding but my replacement knee has a max ROM of 130 degrees, so i can't sit on my heels, for instance, and getting it compressed beyond that would be bad they told me. they also had to shave my kneecap to make room for the new gear so i can't actually kneel directly on the knee because it's thinner. i would love to do it. i'm a strong swimmer. unfortunately, i'm not willing to take the risk. i'm super grateful to still be able to snowboard and i'm saving my parts to do that with my boy.
but i do get a little envious reading this thread.
A great last few days. Got a 2 hour late morning surf in on Friday. 44th street jetty, Newport. Fun, chest to occasional shoulder high lefts off the jetty with only a couple of us out for the last hour. Wave after wave, warm water.
Saturday saw a drop in swell, so went up to the 58-65 street region. Surfed from 10 am to about 1245 when blackball came up. Chest high with the occasional shoulder high set, but great shape. For whatever reason I was in a good rhythm, despite the crowd I got wave after wave, I just seemed to find the little crowd seams. It is usually not that way with me, I have terrible wave judgement, but Saturday that was how things were. Great lefts, chest with sometimes shoulder high for about 80 yards, so fun. Despite it not being big it ended up being one of my best days of the summer.
Today was a bit smaller, with worse shape. The wind came up a bit early, but it was still very fun and surfable from 10 to 1. Water is about 70. Despite it not being as good as yesterday I had a peak to myself for most of the time and had a blast. Mediocre? Yes, but still fun, with as many waves as I wanted. I love Newport in the summer. I have been wearing a spring suit, but it is definitely not necessary, easily trunkable.
Ha. That is here in Santa Cruz. Timing is everything. But seriously, that guy just don't give a shit about his board. Guess he needed to be somewhere important and could not wait. I feel
Sorry for that board.
Sometimes the best days are just when you are in sync.Quote:
Originally Posted by Long duc dong
I thought that was at the lane, but didn't know if there were other spots around that were similar.
We've had a little swell, but it's been just ok. My kid is so spoiled and cannot wait to get back to SC. "There is "no" surfing here dad!" Is what he said yesterday. I laughed and said that's funny because this is where you learned to surf! [emoji3] Oh, but I get it! I feel the same about skiing often back here.
I've been in SC for over two decades but still find my way into the water when ever I get back to Maine in late July and early August. It helps to reset expectations. While we can get excellent surf in summer in SC, it is nothing like the fall and winter. South swells can be small, finicky and inconsistent most summer days. And it is typically foggy and cold. New Hampshire at least enjoys summer weather and warmer water. During the last swell the water at Waddell must have dropped into the upper 40s. I rarely wear a hood and have not worn gloves since before the drought. I had both on the other day at home. OTOH, I body surfed Riis Park the other day in board shorts and never even felt a chill. I'd tell your boy to keep quite and enjoy his blessings. He'll be back in the juice soon enough.
Ahh, he's young, a skier/snowboarder, and winter NE surfer. He doesn't really give a shit about water temps at this point especially if it's 3-4' chop at 5-6 seconds when he's talking to his buds and what they're getting in SC and SoCal.
Your child is young...you'll understand in time the way it works with teen and post teens.
Monday and Tuesday ended up being really fun for my late morning session. About chest high, good shape and warm water. This has really been a consistent summer so far, not epic but fun surf just about every day. Today dropped off a bit, and the wind came up early. I have to leave early today to see Real Madrid and Manchester City play, so I couldn't do my usual late morning session, but I did not miss much. Still surfable though. Kids in Newport and HB really don't know how good they have it with the consistency here.
nice run of ENE crap in NE earlier this week. Maybe a bit more this weekend? Weird, but Ill take it
Hurricane swell on the way brah....you get that hurricane stank up in the 831? :D
Growing up in South County SD, La Fonda was always one of our go to spots. With good traffic we could be there in less than an hour from CV. Fun wave, top to bottom with crystal clear water. Haven't been there in a few years. If you believe what's posted on Wannasurf, sounds like the camping scene might be a bit sketch. Post a report when you get back. Have fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
We did with the last one. Quite good. Dunno this round. I'm in NYC now headed up to ME tomorrow, so I won't see. If it hits around 170 at Dana we've got spots that will grab it up here. Wind permitting, on a short board, otherwise cowells on the log.Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
^^right on, make sure you say hi to our favorite narcissist up in ME :D
might get lucky with a lil NE chopslopswell saturday and sunday in maine. keep an eye out.
Careful out there fellas, it's shark week.
Ha! I haven't spoken with that kook in a while, but I'm sure it's been clean, overhead, and 17 seconds all summer over there :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
Friday was really fun, just peaky enough to not be too walled. Surfed the 61 to 65 zone in Newport. Saturday and Sunday were more walled. Still some fun ones, but had to pick and choose. It was great right by the 56th street jetty, but it was also packed.
Yawnnnn.... pavones going off recently and our surfhouse is full with happy people.