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Dude didn't sleep for almost 3 days?
So by my paper napkin math he rode up a 540' hill 186 times.... word
A very similar expierence on the kokopellie put me in the ER a few years ago in May. Got a nice case of heat stroke at a dry camp on day 3. An evening of vomiting made me decide to pull the plug. Good on you for toughing it out. I think bikepacking might always be hard? I've started doing more weekend trips to try and normalize the fully loaded bike feel. who knows
Yikes.
I could totally see how this would happen.
Desert Travel is really mentally taxing for me. I’m always assessing risk and water / heat exposure are the real deal. “If I bonk and can’t make the next camp do I have enough water to rally and get there tomorrow”.
I’m getting ready for the Colorado Trail which is physically harder but on terrain I’m much more comfortable with.
Some review : Revelate Pronghorn Handlebar Bag is awesome. Revelate Vole seatbag - works really well with a dropper.
Any favorite bikepacking tents (yeah tent not tarp or bivy).
Current lead contender is the Tarptent Double Rainbow, maybe the Li.
I have a hilleberg for most backpacking but I’m looking to shave some weight and volume for bike trips. Current setup with stakes is around 70oz.
Hopefully : bugproof, 2 person, around 2lbs + a little, packs small, solid construction (no Big Agnes) and can fit someone 6’3”.
Just curious why no BA?
The Tigerwall UL2 seems like it checks all of your boxes. Only thing I’d be skeptical about is the packability. I haven’t owned a ton of tents in this category so have nothing to compare to in that regard. The poles seem pretty damn strong to me.
As a data point, I've had a BA Fly Creek UL1 for many years and possibly hundreds of nights out and it keeps on keeping on. When I bought it the absurdly light fabric and mesh seemed fragile but it's really surpassed expectations. BA tents are really popular for a reason.
My GF has a Nemo Hornet that has also been more durable than its gossamer fabric would seem to suggest, and we use it when we do trips together. It's barely large enough for us, and we're average height.
I've tried several of the more tarp-like options and have finally decided that I can't be bothered with the more fiddly setup and large number of stakes. Single wall non breathable fabrics also don't work for me because I'm not disciplined enough to manage the condensation, and don't want to be limited in where I set up my camp, so my bag just ends up wet. So I'll just keep using the ol' trusty Fly Creek.
Oh, and I've owned 2 Hillebergs as well. They are amazing, but overkill for me at this point in my life. I check the weather forecast and just postpone a trip if a hurricane is scheduled.
Gravel ribbon
Attachment 332704
So are Gravelking 700c always a pain to setup tubeless? Guess it depends on the wheel. Gonna have to try leaving tubes in them overnight kinda thing.
I worked at a shop for a little and just saw a lot of BA tents have strange things fail. I understand some people love them and swear by them but the zippers seem like they fail rapidly and other little issues. I have the same issue with Yeti bikes, I know they're fine for a lot of people... but I just saw so many broken seat stays that I'm not overly interested in owning one. Probably a bit of bias, I know they're fine for a lot of folks and are actually nice products. Similar issues with a few other brands, I mainly mentioned BA because I figured that would be the first recommendation.
The Tiger Wall does look nice. The Tarp Tents I referenced are a bit more interior space and have a good reputation for durability. That being said, I've never used them. The Double Rainbow Li is $100 more than the Tigerwall but weighs a stated 8 ounces less and I trust the weights on the Tarptent more than the BA. The cheaper standard double rainbow is $250 cheaper than the tigerwall, more space, more durable fabric, and weighs about 6 ounces more (maybe less as the BA might add a few ounces).
Tubeless tire install without a compressor. I'm a tubeless newbie and this vid helped. Worked the first time I tried it.
Nice. I have mounted dozens of tubeless tires and never tried the "pre-setting the bead" trick. May have to do that and possibly re-tape the rims or something. IDK.
New wheels and tires look nice though and will roll fast.
Attachment 332773
Anyone in Bozeman area looking to team up for a bike packing trip later in summer? Or just ride dirt? Moved from Denver in December so looking for folks to ride with.
Decent ride yesterday. Actually wanted to road ride but was put off by the forecast of high winds and t-storms and stuck a little closer to town.
Up Jumbo saddle
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Down Marshall canyon
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Up deer creek
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Down to miller
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ice cream stop
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52mi, 4400ft. not bad for "yeah i guess i'll get out for a quick ride"
Which rear derailleur to pair with a apex shifter which has a 46t capacity? Instead of going smaller on the front chainring I would like to keep the 40t and try to gain more in the back from the 11-42t and go up to 46t.
You have an apex long cage RD on there already? Technically outside the capacity but I'd probably try it first.
Can anybody weigh in on Gravel bike geo? I'm looking at replacing a road bike (Scott CR1 from 2011) with a gravel bike. My use case is that I'll probably ride a combo of gravel and road - eventually buying a second wheelset for road riding.
There are a lot of ads on Pinkbike and elsewhere for "CX/Gravel bikes" which I'm assuming simply means that they are CX bikes with CX geometry but you can ride them on gravel if you'd like. What are some base numbers for HA and SA that I should be looking for? Any other numbers I should keep my eyes on? Is a CX bike a reasonable option for a starter gravel bike? Seems like those are more abundant.
Seth
“Gravel bike” is such a stupid term. It’s like someone thinks they discovered a new type of bike/biking. I think a head angle between 69 and 71, seat tube angle 71-73 longer chain stays and a lower bottom bracket. Lots of older mtbs, sport touring and loaded touring bikes are built like this.
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Current cx bikes and gravel bikes have pretty similar geo. A cannondale super x and topstone are essentially identical for example, and in fact the super x has longer chainstays and a barely slacker hta and lower bb. Some vary more, specialized's diverge is a bit longer and has a lower bb than the crux. Even the pure "cx race" bikes have slackened the hta and gotten a little lower since like 10 years ago.
What is probably a more significant difference is that gravel bikes generally have more mounting provisions for racks and bags and whatever, BB height meant for a 40ish mm tire instead of a 33, maybe more clearance but cx frames are fairly generous despite being meant for smaller tires due to mud concerns. Plus only uci rules require 33s so most racers can, and do go with larger tires.
CX bikes will work fine. The thing I'd look out for is tire size. CK bikes can max out around 35/38 while "gravel" bikes usually max out around 45 or more. There's nothing wrong with a 35/38 tire though. Especially if you're mostly riding pavement + gravel roads. If you're wanting to push into more singletrack/nasty dirt roads some people like to have a bit more rubber under them.
The Scott Addict CX and the Addict Gravel are the exact same frames AFAIK. Plenty aggressive if you enjoyed your road bike and don't want to get too slack with your next bike. Plus you can build it up as light as you want to as the frame is super light. I was in your shoes in that I was thinking about a one quiver road/gravel bike but opted to keep my road bike around even after getting a SuperX recently.
Max tire width in the Super X?
I think they say 40-42. The caad x doesn't have the offset rear end and has a little less room, 37-40ish? Also depends on the actual tire. Some measure larger, have more side knob protusion, etc.
my orbea is a pure cx race bike from almost 10 year ago with a pretty short wheelbase, steep hta, higher bb. I have 40mm nanos on it. They actually measure 41-42mm, but the side knobs don't stick out past the casing at all and it fits. barely. I am concerned that some other 40s would rub.
I’d buy a bike with the most clearance you can find. Riding with the max tire width doesn’t leave much clearance for mud and debris or tire wobble if you take a hard hit to the wheel.
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Or NAMBLA!
@sethschmautz
I bought a cheapish Specialized Crux CX bike that some cross racer was selling. It has discs and clearance for 40c tires, both of which I think are critical, and it has worked totally fine as a low-cost starter gravel bike. The one thing I hadn't considered that I ended up having to swap was the rear cassette - "real gravel bikes" are geared much more forgiving for long steep climbs. I was able to just swap the cassette but it could have turned into a pain in the ass if I needed to replace the cassette, rear derailleur, etc... Something to keep in mind as you cruise craigslist, peruse pinkbike, or whatever the kids are doing these days.
Oh man. Nice 23mm internal Easton carbon wheels + 700x38 gravelkings = such a nice ride.
Anybody have any experience with the Warbird or the Cutthroat? The Cutthroat has a slacker HA (69), steeper SA (74) with longer chainstains (483) than the Warbird (71 / 73 / 430, respectively). The Cutthroat can handle up to a 29x2.4" tire, but I'm not sure what I'd think about that geo if I swapped in road wheels/tires to ride it on the road.
Would be interested to hear if others have any time on either of these two options. Next best value seems to be the Giant Revolt from what I am seeing...
Seth
Deciding between those two bikes totally makes sense, but the Cutthroat + road wheelset doesn't really compute for me. If I was going to run a road wheelset sometimes (that I already own) I'd be looking at the 650b Warroad instead, but that might just be me. What do you ride/what would a typical day be for you on this bike?
Not having ever had a gravel bike, I'm currently asking the question: "Does a gravel bike make sense for me?"
I have a roadbike and I have mountain bikes. Typically I ride the road bike on the paved roads around here (a tiny bit on gravel to/from pavement) and the mountain bikes on single/doubletrack. Nothing profound here. However, the area all around me in Montana is full of mixed gravel/pavement/doubletrack/singletrack. It *seems* to me as though it would open up a lot of options for me.
I would use this bike to commute to/from work in the summer (mostly all pavement, but could throw in gravel to make it more direct), doing road rides with my wife, a bit of bikepacking on forest service and other roads (I'm located right near Glacier Park, Flathead National Forest, along the route of the Great Divide, etc.).
Generally I'd be looking at this bike as a roadbike that would be at home also on gravel. Not having ridden one, I'm not sure whether I'd find the 35-45mm tires slow on pavement and want a second set of tires or if that would happen so rarely that I wouldn't sweat it.
What I'm noticing in my reply above is a consistent "I haven't ridden one. . ." so I think I'll start there and see if I can find a loaner/rental this weekend.
Seth
As one data point my brother-in-law demoed a bunch of gravel bikes for his mostly pavement use and he ended up buying a warbird. He just loved the way it rode on the pavement (he’s a newbie/beginner but good athlete).