I'd could do us all a favor and run you thru. Douche. :)
Printable View
I'd could do us all a favor and run you thru. Douche. :)
What's with the cord counting shenanigans? Half a cord is 64 cubic feet, or 4x4x4. That pile is 3x3x3 at best.Quote:
Originally Posted by gointhedistance
A neighbor of mine just did the same thing... Somehow decided that 2 rows of 16" - 18" was 4' deep, and a rounded pile that was almost 6' tall at it's highest point was 4' tall on average. I get the feeling these are the same folks who piss all over the floor in front of the urinal.
http://www.hakes.com/product_images/.../001_small.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by stfu&gbtw
Want to buy some firewood?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
i burn wood cuz it's free.
todays poach, thank you power company:)
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l.../photo12-1.jpg
this winters free bounty
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/photo2-3.jpg
next winters free bounty
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l.../photo31-1.jpg
all of it carried in my little honda crv. killer reliable wood hauler.
holy shit how many trips was that??Quote:
Originally Posted by thewon
lots, but i don't really ever go out of my way to get wood. most of the wood i get on my way to work. stop off on my way to work, load up, continue to work. unload when i get home, then cut into rounds that i split with a 5lb fiskers. i'd say i do 1 or 2 or so loads a week in the crv year round. that way it's never really a chore. when i find a good score i'll do 4-5 loads in a week to stock up on premium wood. i enjoy it. good excercise. i can get 6' lengths in the back of the crv with no issues. getting wood into the back is easier than most pickups cuz the floor of the honda is pretty low. some logs that i hoist in are well over 200 pounds each.Quote:
Originally Posted by DougW
that load pictured above i scored while riding my mtb back from the trails this am before work. i popped out onto the road, saw 2 big trucks cutting up some trees that had fallen in a recent snow event. as i pedal'd by i asked the guys if the wood they'd just cut was fair game, and they gave me a friendly, "ayup", so i rode the 1/4 mile to my house, traded the mtb for the crv and went back and loaded up. i'll get the rest of the bounty tomorrow.
Total wood jong here.
House we recently moved into has an old 2 door timberline brand wood stove. It seems quit large for the space and as far as I can tell has no damper or catalytic dealy. Finally having it inspected and cleaned tomorrow, but I get the sense buying wood for this season is somewhat senseless. House has central air, so we're warm, but it'd be nice to supplement that heat once in a while.
Being this late in the season is my only option to buy wood that has already been split? I bought a fire extinguisher, thermometer and humidifier (Wife wanted it). Besides a poker/shovel, any other must have tools?
WiFi password revealer is a small program which will show you all stored passwords to your wireless
Kind of like a all year road kill scavenger hunt. Don't think that would work around here as way too much competition. Seen people on our road which is way out there picking up power cuttings.Quote:
Originally Posted by thewon
Imo if you have to pay the going rate for wood, there's no sense in using it to supplement the heating you already have. Unless you like having fires for ambiance. If i had to pay 275-300 a cord for wood, then have to stack it, sweep chimney, clean out ashes, it just wouldn't be worth it when you can just flip a switch and stay warm.Quote:
Originally Posted by grabtindy
ya maine is good like that. Quiet surf, quiet trails, no competition for wood, no traffic. Just don't tell anyone :fm:Quote:
Originally Posted by DougW
Back to sugaring
Attachment 166215
Finally canned some nice Amber Rich yesterday. Now we are just hoping the season keeps going a few more weeks.
Soon it will be time to cut wood again.
that looks awesome. a friend's kid got to work at a sugar shack with her school last week. it looked like a lot of fun for the kids.
i've been spending some time lately clearing 20-30 year old "sprouts" (mostly cedar) and dead manzanita on our small property. the manzanita will help heat the house. the cedar will mostly be used as fence posts or be shredded for mulch. fun and a little interesting because most of the cedar seem to be leaning the wrong way or like to get hung-up on the adjacent big madrone, oaks, or pines.
i'm starting to look for a used small hauling trailer for general wood scavenging.
last fall, a local land trust opened up an oak woodland they owned for a single day of harvesting fallen live oak. there were hundreds of live oaks that had been lost in a large wind event several years ago.
Last weekend 6 of us spent > 2 days falling/bucking/sledding/splitting/stacking the wood shed to full at Burnie hut with standing dead beetle killed pine ...enough for 20 weeks of winter operation
Bump for Rideski who found some free wood in Littleton.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-thread/page17
My recent cedar score.
Attachment 167100
I need to start collecting pallets again.
Here's some work from a few of my lunch hours recently. Many will be for a fence we'll be building soon and some will probably make it into the stove. As you can see in the background, lots more clearing and thinning to go.
Attachment 167148
The hoarding has begun!Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Here are my two piles of trunks from thinning a fraction of our little piece of land. The thinned area is in the background of one of the picts. Fun work!
The harvesting has begun.
Wanted to thank the various mags for the good advice last year, had a warm first winter of burning wood. Super stoked to get on the cutting early this season. Got a little ambitious with my first tree. 1.5 cords from one tree is a great way to start though. Cheers.
Attachment 167569Attachment 167570Attachment 167571
So I've been having an issue with my chainsaw cuts and can't seem to find anything on the specific issue on Google. My cuts aren't flush, somehow the saw is cutting small ridges, identical to the ruffles chips ridges. I sharpened the chain and cleaned the bar and still having the issue. Anybody know why this is happening? It's not a terrible problem to have, but my wife it's enjoying the summer off and started painting on some thin cuts and I can't seem to cut a flush cut for the life of me.Attachment 168427
Edit. The stuff with the prominent ridges is some green juniper. I made some cuts on some pine rounds and still had the issue but slightly less prominent ridges.
^^^ Chain is wandering on the bar. Juniper is more dense than pine, resists the cut more, results in a wavier cut. Trying to push the saw thru the cut makes things worse
Check chain tension - prolly a little loose. If that doesn't work, get the chain properly sharpened. If still a problem , get new chain.
About half of this season's haul. Found a nice stash of dry lodgepole. I'll process the rest of that this week and then two more cords next weekend and two more the week after that.
And also the bar could be worn out. Specifically, the groove in the bar may have so much play from wear that the chain wanders. New bar time if that's the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by telebobski
The saw is only a year old and I've only cut about 8 chords on it. Guessing, hoping the bar doesn't wear out that quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
It shouldn't, but check for that. For some reason there's excessive side to side movement of the chain. telebobski's points about tension, sharpening, and forcing the cut are likely to be relevant.Quote:
Originally Posted by splitinbend
Might also check that your bar nuts are tight and the bar isn't bent. Do you flip your bar periodically? If not, you might flip it over and see if it continues.
I'd at least flip the bar over before getting a new one
Occasionally the bottom side of the bar wears and becomes "mushroomed" and needs to be filed flush to avoid hanging up. Don't use cheap bar oil.
I think forcing the cut is common. Let the saw do the work. Work your way around big logs: start at the top, dog it over to the back side and get a lot of the back, dog it back over to the horizontal and let it ride down. Use wedges.
So I realized the toothbrush wasn't getting deep enough in the bar groove and found bar grease coated dust deeper in. Cleaned it out, flipped the bar, tightened the chain and cut both some juniper and pine. Results were the same with the ridge cuts. My guess is I have probably been running the chain too loose, which I can only assume has caused some wear resulting in chain play during cuts. I'll take it in to the shop tomorrow when they're open and get it checked out. Appears there's nothing not I can do. Thanks for the other advice.
Any play in the drive sprocket?Quote:
Originally Posted by splitinbend
I'm not sure how that would lead to chain wobble since the bar guides it. Care to elaborate?Quote:
Originally Posted by stfu&gbtw
That model of sprocket is probably incompatible with his shoes...Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
All kidding aside, just thinking about what's attached to the problem. No hard info or experience that suggests that'd be the cause.
I'd check the oiler on that saw if you have that much paint peeled off the bar in 8 cords. If isn't putting out enough oil then you are wearing the bar out faster (heat is peeling the paint off). Coupled with incorrect chain tension and you might narrow down the problem.
You can take the bar off and look down the groove and easily identify bar wearing.
This will help with cleaning the bar and has the added benefit of helping you set your rakers.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/cha...ls/depthgauge/
Try a new chain, took me a good bit of practice to get good at sharpening and ruined a few chains trying.
Went to the shop, guys said it was just the chain. I tried to sharpen it myself more than once and the shop guy said he could see the chain was dull on one side but not the other. In regards to the bar, it was fine, he just said when I was cutting rounds wider than my bar it heats up real quick and likely I didn't rest the saw enough causing heat strain. That coupled with my failed chain sharpening and not flipping the bar resulted in an offset chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by char
Thanks for all the helpful feedback everybody.
The time I didn't sharpen evenly the symptom was that the saw cut would pull to one side
http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1396
i like this Huskavarna filing guide^^
Keep 2-3 chains in rotation. You'll get better at sharpening them, but if you do it a lot you'll be stoked to have a fresh chain you can use and file a few times while the other is at the shop getting a grind. And don't chuck a shitty chain. Someday your going to need a dirt/rock motherfuckingroot chain.