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I carry the Plug & Pliers kit in my OneUp. If I didn't have that, I'd have some alternative. Kinda sucks that they don't break by hand anymore, but it's a couple-second operation with the tool, and popping a rivet almost always ends up with a snapped chain somewhere down the line cause I forget to replace with a master link.
OK,
Question
I've used both Time and Shimano style pedals. I find that the shimano I'm in now are a bit tougher to get out of mid bail. Now that I'm getting older, I like to be able to dump the bike and not try to hold on as long. What pedal cleat type is easiest to get out of during a fall?
I'm not married to any of them, and, looking back I think I liked my time pedals the best.
Shimano multi release cleats are probably the easiest to get out of.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
They'll let you out at all kinds of other inopportune times and generally try to kill you. But if you want ease of release, they're it.
They'll let you out at all kinds of other inopportune times and generally try to kill you. [/QUOTE]
I laughed.
I have a scar on my knee to prove it. Was pulling hard to get over a steep little spot, came out of the pedal and absolutely hammered my knee into the dropper lever. Saw stars and ruined the lever.
Probably proves I’m a hack but it fucking hurt.
Are you talking about the Shimano spd pedals used for mtn biking ?Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
The spd tension can be set like a ski binding so how do you have them set ?
Crank Brothers are a great alternative if you want all of the random release awesomeness combined with pedals that explode too.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I broke a spoke on the same ride my friend snapped his hanger. We both had cheap pliers in the bag and in trying to snap the bent spoke off so we could slip it out of the classic hub we broke the pliers. We're freaking idiots. So, of course I have zip ties and just tied it to another spoke and continued the ride.Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
I especially like the ‘hit a rock on the bottom, eject on top’ feature. Innovative.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
A Leatherman lives in my pack. Rare to need it, but very happy to have it when I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
I keep an extra master link taped to my shifter housing on all my bikes. That and a multitool that includes a chain tool has saved me a few times.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
The taped-on master link is Jerome Clementz's trick.
https://bikerumor-wpengine.netdna-ss...ke-check02.jpg
I have that until I use it and forget to replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
27.5 question: Deciding between a 2.4 and 2.6 for rear tire. DHR 2 with exact same casing and compound in both. Weight difference is negligible, less than 30 grams. Is there any reason to not go for 2.6 (besides frame being able to fit)? Am I missing something? Again, rear only, in this tire specifically. Have we proven that wider will roll faster? Acceleration?
2.4 DHR2 is not a fast tire. 2.6 is slower.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
Aside from that, it's just a question of whether you like how the 2.6 rides. More cush, and more traction in some situations. Less precise, and can feel slidier in some soft soils.
How wide is your rear rim?
2.4WT or 2.4?
Under 30 mm rim should run an non-WT casing, so your biggest option is the 2.4.
If your rim is over 30mm ID, then go for what fits inside your frame.
D’oh. Sorry, 30.5 id (I9 enduro 305)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
And sorry yes, both tires I’m looking at are 3C/EXO+/WT
2.4WT and 2.6 WT.
I know the DHR isn’t a fast roller, but I ride terrain that trends on the wet/moist side so looking to move forward to a dhr2 from aggressor.
Spliting hairs then. You will not notice the difference as a rear tire. You want faster go with the 2.4
cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
The massive difference you’ll feel is going from the aggressor to the DHR in either width. Both in performance and in fewer flats.
Wide tire up front will be more noticeable for grabby crawly brakey traction.
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For sure. Went 2.4, cheaper anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
IME with the 2.3 aggressor that came on my Yeti 5.5 , it was a light & fast tire but it broke loose quite easily and there was not much traction in the wet,Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
the 2.5 on the front has plenty of traction so I left that alone
I replaced the agressor with a 2.3 DHRII minion which has lots of traction
I went with the same 2.3 width cuz whatever I put back there I will have to turn over so i wanted the narrower lighter tire
2.3 is getting harder to come by these days. I'm fine running 2.3 dhr and dhf. I've actually got the dhf on the rear right now and it's fine. Tire I just bought for the back up is a 2.4 wt because it was available.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
[QUOTE=jackstraw;5953084Tire I just bought for the back up is a 2.4 wt because it was available.[/QUOTE]
That 2.4WT will lightbulb on you, if your rims aren’t wide enough.
Yeah, I'm right on the edge with Stans Flow MK3 rims. We'll see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
2.4”s were absolutely perfect on my (30mm ID) MK III’s. I wouldn’t worry about it on those.
what exactly is the aggressor for? ive got no skin left on my forearm from it breaking lose on me,
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