PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

Attachment 345955

First round of kids skis. Think they know how lucky they are?

Haven’t had a bad jigarex plate yet (including shifts)

Fingers crossed.


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Attachment 345966

And Cast on my GPO’s. Many thanks to SFB for the 18-15 trade.


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DOPE

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

i think either/or is pretty good stuff

> 5 minute epoxy for holding power - i put some 5 min on the end of a WW paddle just for kicks being exposed to the H20 it got all flacid & fell off fairly quick
> than JB weld for workability - that shit does not wana go down a drill hole it might be good for filling large voids in the base but then ever one can see you put that ugly shit on your ski after skiing over a rock like some cheese eating school boy, JB weld just screams gaper or maybe 1 step removed

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Do not use JB for any ski applications, it’s good shit for sure but does not flex and will crack out.

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Originally Posted by detrusor

Attachment 345966

And Cast on my GPO’s. Many thanks to SFB for the 18-15 trade.


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looks great ... lucky kids 4 sho

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Tried out the new mill using the SDM function on the DRO. Like most things with a mill, the setup time takes longer than the actual work. Drilling the holes goes super fast. Is it worth the trouble for mounting bindings? Probably not, but fun none the less.

Attachment 345987

That machine tool is cleaner than my kitchen.

Mounted up this year’s quiver for my oldest kid - dude is going to be psyched!

Attachment 346005


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Lost my box of mounting stuff when moving houses and working through a quick checklist before beginning the mount. Am I forgetting something?

-drill
-3.5 mm bit (no metal in skis)
-binding glue
-binding template
-centering ruler of some sort
-painter's tape

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brundo

Lost my box of mounting stuff when moving houses and working through a quick checklist before beginning the mount. Am I forgetting something?

-drill
-3.5 mm bit (no metal in skis)
-binding glue
-binding template
-centering ruler of some sort
-painter's tape

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I like having an automatic center punch to transfer the marks from the template to the topsheet, but you've got the main stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brundo

Lost my box of mounting stuff when moving houses and working through a quick checklist before beginning the mount. Am I forgetting something?

-drill
-3.5 mm bit (no metal in skis)
-binding glue
-binding template
-centering ruler of some sort
-painter's tape

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In addition to optional center punch, you could also optionally use a tape measure to verify the marked factory recommended mount position, also plug any old holes with plastic or wood dowels or just epoxy, also could raze any old volcanoes/holes with a razor or file or whatever, also to decrease chance of spinners you could get a better "feel" by inserting screws with a hand screwdriver instead of a power drill.

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Get a tap

I mounted even more classics for even more fun on even more WROD's.

2009 Volkl Mantra 191cm - (900S DIN=14 metal heel, 957 DIN=12 plastic toe)
2012 ON3P Wrenegade 191cm - (900S DIN=20 metal)
2018 4FRNT Devastator 194cm - (997 DIN=20 metal)
Attachment 346070
Attachment 346069
Attachment 346068

.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vitamin I

I mounted even more classics for even more fun on even more WROD's.

2009 Volkl Mantra 191cm - (900S DIN=14 metal heel, 957 DIN=12 plastic toe)
2012 ON3P Wrenegade 191cm - (900S DIN=20 metal)
2018 4FRNT Devastator 194cm - (997 DIN=20 metal)
Attachment 346070
Attachment 346069
Attachment 346068

.

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Some great skis there. I had those same mantras, wish I never got rid of them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vitamin I

In addition to optional center punch, you could also optionally use a tape measure to verify the marked factory recommended mount position, also plug any old holes with plastic or wood dowels or just epoxy, also could raze any old volcanoes/holes with a razor or file or whatever, also to decrease chance of spinners you could get a better "feel" by inserting screws with a hand screwdriver instead of a power drill.

.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by HAB

I like having an automatic center punch to transfer the marks from the template to the topsheet, but you've got the main stuff.

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Thanks.

I've got some holes that'll be touching/overlapping. I know this is debated but whats the strongest way to overlap holes? Previously I was doing dowels and epoxy but I'm wondering if inserts would be a good idea. I'm less inclined though cause I haven't done it before.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by brundo

Thanks.

I've got some holes that'll be touching/overlapping. I know this is debated but whats the strongest way to overlap holes? Previously I was doing dowels and epoxy but I'm wondering if inserts would be a good idea. I'm less inclined though cause I haven't done it before.

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Inserts don't buy you a ton of room to consume old holes. Do dowels and epoxy for sure. Dowels and epoxy with inserts for maximum beef.

Hi Guys,

I don't come really often (I even lost my account) but this post is a treasure.

I've designed a 3D printed multi-brand drilling template. It's a work in progress, but as my progress is slow, I've decided to share the parts on Thingiverse so other people can use it, and request for new binding templates.

Works with standard drill bits (3.9 and 4.1 mm diameter)

I can't post a link - a limitation from TGR forum that i don't understand ? Neither a picture :(

The ref from thingiverse is 4641270

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RiderDeTerre

Hi Guys,

I don't come really often (I even lost my account) but this post is a treasure.

I've designed a 3D printed multi-brand drilling template. It's a work in progress, but as my progress is slow, I've decided to share the parts on Thingiverse so other people can use it, and request for new binding templates.

Works with standard drill bits (3.9 and 4.1 mm diameter)

I can't post a link - a limitation from TGR forum that i don't understand ? Neither a picture :(

The ref from thingiverse is 4641270

---

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4641270

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by RiderDeTerre

Hi Guys,

I don't come really often (I even lost my account) but this post is a treasure.

I've designed a 3D printed multi-brand drilling template. It's a work in progress, but as my progress is slow, I've decided to share the parts on Thingiverse so other people can use it, and request for new binding templates.

Works with standard drill bits (3.9 and 4.1 mm diameter)

I can't post a link - a limitation from TGR forum that i don't understand ? Neither a picture :(

The ref from thingiverse is 4641270

---

This looks awesome. I have an old pivot jig that doesn't open up wider than like 100mm, so this could save having to freehand anything wider than that which would be pretty sweet.

I was about to reuse some old Jester holes and then I saw there was some serious overlap, hence my questions above about plugging holes. Is there too much overlap which will cause certain death? The overlapping holes are the two rearmost holes on the heels. I don't care about the skis but I wonder if they come out at the wrong time it could be bad news. Thoughts?

Other mounts are shifts and kingpins. From what I remember there aren't other bindings that share many holes so it seems like a jester/griffon mount is my best bet.

Pics of heels:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cfee929025.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8f12d978d6.jpg

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best practises is to leave 1 cm between holes but overlapping holes are fine if it doesnt pull out

you will always get an anecdote from somebody who did less than best practices and had no problem

but maybe what we really need is a " I did considerably < best practices, shit fucked up, when it pulled out I broke my leg lost my job, my dog died, so did my pickup truck and my wife/husband left me " thread but you never see those

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

best practises is to leave 1 cm between holes but overlapping holes are fine if it doesnt pull out

you will always get an anecdote from somebody who did less than best practices and had no problem

but maybe what we really need is a " I did considerably < best practices, shit fucked up, when it pulled out I broke my leg lost my job, my dog died, so did my pickup truck and my wife/husband left me " thread but you never see those

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Yeah, makes sense. Like you said, I just haven't heard any bad pullout stories. The only story I've heard was the one a couple weeks ago of overlapping holes that were plugged with plastic. And it sounds like that was just as much a problem of the binding (shifts) as the mount. Plus sounds like they were being skied pretty damn hard.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by brundo

Yeah, makes sense. Like you said, I just haven't heard any bad pullout stories. The only story I've heard was the one a couple weeks ago of overlapping holes that were plugged with plastic. And it sounds like that was just as much a problem of the binding (shifts) as the mount. Plus sounds like they were being skied pretty damn hard.

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I’m shooting 100% on pullout stories....


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Once upon an October past
It snowed a bit crackhead, story slutty ,I think perpetual weekend jim was with us and possibly
Another mag
Crackhead pulled our a dynafiddle toe on the timp snowfield
I got it back in but 1/2 way down it failed
Crackhead skied out the 6 or 8 inches down to a aspen grove trailhead
He let me mount his skis after that

Once upon an October past
It snowed a bit crackhead, story slutty ,I think perpetual weekend jim was with us and possibly
Another mag
Crackhead pulled our a dynafiddle toe on the timp snowfield
I got it back in but 1/2 way down it failed
Crackhead skied out the 6 or 8 inches down to a aspen grove trailhead on one ski
That fucker is strong
He let me mount his skis after that