What about the 43cc 3hp saws? Ms241 and 543 xp vs the 50cc saws listed above? Thinking smaller user.
Printable View
What about the 43cc 3hp saws? Ms241 and 543 xp vs the 50cc saws listed above? Thinking smaller user.
Heh...I bought a used Stihl 026 from some guy in Napa who hadn't used the saw for several years at the time. That sucker's been money! Switched the 20" for an 18" bar, and I do a bit of trail maintenance with it on occasion.
I have a 550xp
Works great, killer firewood and trail saw. Have an 044 too for felling bigger trees but have dropped 20"+ Dougs with the little husky.
Yeah the 241 came along after the 261 and is now the smallest sthil pro saw, I'd look at specs see how much weight going that small really Save's you ??Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Had a couple guys come and climb and drop the last 4 dead trees today. A couple were very close to the house. I was quoted $500 just for the boom truck. These guys did all 4 for $500 cash.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9e55c5e42d.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f8bf19bb3e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d5c644afca.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9b2dd7bd95.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a85a4cbc3a.jpg
I was visiting my folks this weekend and had to help my dad with some things around the property and in his shop. My dad was a logger back from the mid '50s to about 1970. I was sorting through some stuff and found his chainsaw collection.
Attachment 185965Attachment 185966Attachment 185967Attachment 185968Attachment 185969Attachment 185970
The Wright and the big Homelites he used when he was logging. He picked up the others along the way. The old McCullough and that newer Husky he got when my uncle died two years ago. He didn't know he had the Husky(he's 80 now), my cousins just dropped a bunch of stuff in his shop after my uncle passed. He can't remember where he got that little Cox Beaver(great name) or the 30 yo all red Homelite. He got the Stihl 031 a few years back and had his saw guy in Darrington work it over. It's a little hard to start, not bad really, but it screams and cuts like crazy with a skip tooth chain.
I can't imagine carrying around those big Homelite felling saws for 10-12 hours a day in Cascappalachian, brutal. They must weigh 30-40 pounds.
Current model--Husqvarna 550XP, or even the 543...... my 550 is fully woods ported. Before it, the 346XP was the best 3 cube saw, hands down.... I had several, though never ran any of them in stock form. I now have a stock Dolmar 5100S, which replaces my two that were stolen, and not stock. Here's me running one, when I'd thrown the pipe on it. I still have the pipe....Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
https://youtu.be/bWm-GFbAHMk
Been an arborist for 41 years now..... and decided to take some risks in order to fill out a log truck. We had some problems with the rigging, and am doubtful that I'll ever try anything so big again..but here it is.... we pulled it off. I've not ever seen or heard of anyone aerial rigging loads approaching 3000 lb, besides the best big tree rigger there is, Graeme McMahon, who works with the largest hardwood trees, Eucalyptus Regnans--southern Australia. And the rigging of that size that he has done, was done with explosives, with him safely on the ground. Google Sherbrooke Tree Service.....
https://youtu.be/ogKzEBIeTG8 read the description
I haven't seen any Echo love in this thread. The "pro" Echos saws are great quality and ultra reliable. When I bought my CS510 13 years ago it was better made than the Husky in the same class and on par with Stihl.
Thanks for the suggestions. We were gifted an ms241. A pretty spectacular gift and we are stoked. We would have been happy with many of the options. It'll get used by my wife and me. Eventually, the kids will use it, too. It should last a long time. It's really nice having a new saw. I still need to get my oil pump functional on my bigger saw and am a hindered moving fwd with several projects without a bigger saw.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Our arborist friend uses a few echo saws and my neighbor uses an echo saw. The neighbor used his saw for substantial thinning. I believe it's a saw that he's had and used for over a decade. The saw runs great. He's a car mechanic and keeps all his motor driven stuff running well.
I'm looking for recommendations for chain sharpening tools and file guides. I'm aware of different chains. I noticed some Oregon brand ones at some of the local shops.
You don't need a guide. But pretty much anything you see at your saw shop will work, starting with a simple guide that goes on your file to all sorts of contraptions, motorized or otherwise.
http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/suppo...ing-the-chain/
I find the guide in this^^ link idiot proof
you don't need a guide but you will probably fuck it up without and have the saw cut pulling to one side
I know of fallers that tend to stay away from electric sharpeners as the speed of the file can heat up the tooth, changing the temper of the steel, making hand filing in the field very difficult. Never used an electric sharpener myself, always sharpened manually - YMMV
One of these always worked for me - keeps the file at the right height and has (very useful) marks to get the angle correct:
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/13oAAO...QqK/s-l300.jpg
Don't forget to get a depth gauge and flat file for the rakers.
http://www.hearth.com/talk/attachmen...ge-jpg.103299/
^^those there^^
I've used that one and still fucked it up but the one I linked to is idiot proof
I have to say that when I click on your link I don't see any sharpening tool other than a raker depth gauge. I tried a different browser, no luck. Do you have a better link for the idiot-proof sharpening tool that you're talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Is it something like this?
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p...tures/1976.jpg
http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/fores...nation-gauges/
yup this^^ easy enough to carry in a shirt pocket
Oh shit, I didn't realize that was for filing the teeth too. Interesting. I've never seen that.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
yeah .
the file holder in your picture has the handy marks to help you get the right angle but its still possible to fuck it up
the guide in my link you put on the bar/chain (make sure the arrows point forward) and run the file on the plastic rollers ... idiot proof so far
Oh, I can fuck pretty much anything up. I'd like to check that thing out sometime.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
need advice:
i've been patiently working to getting my ms361 running correctly (bought used - discussed upthread). i've recently replace the clutch, worm gear, needle bearings, and clutch drum. the clutch was super worn-out and the drum was worn at the very center, where it's always in contact with the clutch. clutch and drum are OEM.
i reassembled the saw, fired it up and it would die when i opened the throttle. there's a new fuel hose, too. this wasn't a problem before replacing the clutch drum. this seems like the "H" setting is an issue on the carb to me. Advice given to me was that this was likely too lean a setting and the carb needs to be tuned. i've apparently appropriately adjusted one other carb in my life on my ms27X, which does not have an "h" setting. I read-up a bit, pulled the limiter caps off the carb, set the "L" and "H" adjustment screws at a recommended starting point, warmed up the saw, made some adjustments that seems pretty good (idle seemed right, no chain movement at idle, acceleration, seemed good, maybe a little too rich on the "h"), then set off to do some sawing. After finishing my third or fourth 20"-ish round, the saw won't drop to an idle, the chain is whizzing (moving fast). I rev the engine a few time, still whizzing. I make another cut into my log, still whizzing afterwards. i messed with the idle adjustment to no avail, though I was in a bit of a rush by then....
thoughts?
my first thought is that i need to breakdown the carb and give it a more thorough cleaning than i had previously done (cursing at ethanol the entire time). my second thought is that there's some sort of break-in with the new clutch and clutch drum, but I have not seen this mentioned anywhere online.
cheers
Perhaps a piece of debris was caught in the h needle and by turning it out enough it passed through while also allowing the proper amount of fuel. Try dialing down the h again.
My 460 did that last summer. It turned out to be weak clutch springs.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Replaced all three retuned and it ran great.
Thanks for the responses. The clutch and springs are brand new oem. Less than a tank of gas on them. The previous clutch springs were super fucked. With the old clutch, the idle was all over the place.
New clutch (including springs) and drum, warm up saw, tune carb and idle where it seemed good. After several long cuts, it no longer idles without rapid chain spinning. I have not messed with it sense and am stuck inside until after dark.
Have you adjusted the L screw on the carb?
Yes. I was following the strategy here. http://web.archive.org/web/200512280...om/sawtune.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Before the weirdness, I was going to live with the potentially overly rich "h" setting until I catch my overly busy neighbor, who's a mechanic.
Update, I had a brief 10 minute window. Turns out the gas tank was empty.... perhaps that was the problem?.....
I "reset" the carb setting and will go through the tuning stuff again before I start to tear into the machine again. Unless it's a clear sign of another problem.
Oh yeah important pro tip from my chain saw course, set the idle speed but otherwise... Don't fuck with those screws
Oh. Sometimes when the fuel is running out a saw will run like you described.
Yea. Dumb mistake (i hope). Still learning how long a tank lasts on that saw. Easiest troubleshooting ive had for that saw so far. :)
Xxx-er, I'm hoping to not have to mess with those setting soon. My new little saw doesn't have user adjustments for the carb.
Got it working again. The carb is probably richer than necessary for the "h" setting, but it's cutting and bucking my 3-foot diameter logs the the utility left behind. Ran two tanks of fuel on it after work today. Yeah!!!
Mike, have you used that Alaskan mill? We decided not to mill any of your pines? Unfortunately, it seems that all of our logs are "checked" and will make for poor lumber (according to the two millers that I spoke to), which is too bad.
No mine is too shitty to mill, too.
My neighbor had some of his milled. I haven't had a chance to check out the results.
I'm going to at least make a bench with backrest with one of my logs and a few planters. Heating the house with the rest.
Holleee crap. I'm trying to cut up some small trees 10"-12" dia near the house and my 450 Rancher is just struggling and smoking chains in the stuff. I pull out the 372XP and its doing a bit better but dulling chains like crazy. The chain oilers are on max. I'm using a Oregon 73 low kick chain on both saws.
Any chain suggestions on how to get this stuff carved up faster or am I doomed? From the tree guide this seems to be American hornbeam. Nasty stuff.
Get a full skip chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
^This, but also semi-chisel. And maybe two so that you can swap out the dull one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier