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Cool, wondered about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeLau
Don't understand how Fritschi can suggest just greasing it, something has to give for the brake rod to be forced into place when stomped. And it's not going to be the steel rod that gives, it'll be the plastic bits that holds the brake pedal down when in climb mode. There's no way the engineers intended the pedal to be stomped, unless they thought those side wings would flex outward enough. Doubt it though, that's really rigid plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeLau
Edit: typo, wrong word
I just picked up some Evos, and did a swap, mounting my white vipecs on a pair for my wife. Encountered two issues:
1- the new evos came missing a part. Each brake assembly has got arms, and two medium size pieces that hold the brake arms. Then there is one small plate with two prongs. It is the smallest of the brake parts. Anyhow, one was missing. It looks like all it does is keep snow out of kind of a cavity. Other than dying, what will happen if I run without it? One was missing.
2- When remounted the older bindings, there was a huge amount of slop in the pins- both in her boots, and with my boots. By slop, I mean that the pins did not engage deeply into the sockets, allowing a very noticeable amount of lateral movement. I suspect it has nothing to do with the mount. Probably had been going on for a while and I didn't notice.
I adjusted the toe pin, and the slop went away. What gives?
Regarding #1, are you talking about the smaller part in the linked photo? The little nubs on this part keep the brake retracted when in touring mode. Note that I'm working on the assumption that the Evo's brake assembly is the same as the Vipec Black's.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1uYhlyQ3cL.jpg
... Thom
I’m not positive butQuote:
Originally Posted by HHTELE
For
1. Mine came with blue plastic accents and 4 small black pieces so you can switch the blue accents to black. Purely aesthetic. Is it possible it’s those pieces?
2. Probably just needed the pins adjustment set for your particular fittings. Mine seemed to work fine for both my vulcans and lupo’s. I’m going to double check that now. If I find something I’ll edit
1- Nope- not the accents.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Attachment 229595
They are sending another. Those guys have truly great customer service.
2- Nope. That's what is weird. It worked the same as on my boot- the one I have been using with that binding. It is less noticeable when locked in to ski, and I figure I have been skiing them like that, but not noticed. Honestly, seeing all that slop, I don't know how.
Anyhow, I snugged the pins down a bit, and it looks good.
Are there particular tolerances or voo-doo I should be voo doing?
I’ve only had mine a couple days. Not fully versed on them. Great to hear you had , and they still have, really good cs. I’m sure someone here will chime in w beta on the toes but if not there is that cs
Got my snapped riser replaced by BD warranty, no issues at all just called then submitted a warranty online and the new piece arrived a few days later. Props to BD, but boo on Fritschi for such easily snapped parts.
Plastic is light, but not worth the wight savings if it breaks at an inopportune time.
Went out today on my Vipec blacks for the first time this season. I have toured the last 20-25 days on Kingpins on my powder touring boards.
I know it's been said before, but damn, the difference between the Vipec's toe and the KP toe was night and day. Holy crap is the Vipec good on firm and refrozen, never mind smooth windboard and corn. The toe just feels so much damper (due to elasticity I presume) than the locked-in and harsh KP. Wow.
Makes me wanna get on Tectons...
I have the original 13/14 Vipec version. I’m meh on them.
Would the current Dynafit TLT Radical FT 2.0 Binding be an upgrade? I do care about my knees.
Have used the Vipec for two seasons both in and out of bounds near Jackson, WY.
Overall, I feel like the ergonomics of the binding are questionable. The skiing quality is fine, but I’m not a huge fan due to the fiddle factor of the toe pins and sliding heel piece.
Stepping into the toe has been consistently difficult over the course of 2x Vipec sets (white and black). It’s frustrating to see your friends ski away while you look like a noob trying to get the pins in the hole!
Have gotten plenty of “insta-tele” moments while skiing variable snow due to the sliding heel piece. Not ideal.
The reason I initially liked the Vipec was low weight w/brakes and the elastic toe release (which I thought would be much safer).
Turns out that I ski mostly BC powder and simply have not needed to release from this binder in a catastrophic fall. Call it luck, but I do ski this binding hard.
Picked up some 2017 Plum Guides this spring and they are much more solid in the toe piece. Clip in factor is 99%
Verdict: Plum = bomber metal construction compared to Fritschi Plastic.
yeah, there is an easy way to find out if the front is set up correctly wrt pin length. If you press on pin assembly (press on the assembly at its base, using your thumbs, gain leverage from holding on to the opposing edge of the ski) to engage the elasticity in the front all the way, then the adjustment is correct if the assembly does not bind but moves/returns freely from full extension. If the assembly binds/locks in the other/outer position, then the pins are too long and need to be adjusted. If there is slop, then they are too short.Quote:
Originally Posted by HHTELE
i dunno if that was clear as mud, but i am talking about this motion - starts at approximately 2min mark. The procedure is also described in the user manual i think if my memory serves me right.
https://youtu.be/lSnX9RYI-h4?t=124
other than that you should be good to go.
i might be one of the larger proponents of vipecs and tectons on TGR, but i do not see how a Radical would be meaningful upgrade in any sense of the term. Sure, stepping in might be a bit easier, but to forgo the elasticity up front as well as the non rotating heel is not a worthy trade imo. The swiveling front binding of dynafit does not provide any elasticity, it just mitigates a design prone to faulty release. Unless you want to go for something significantly lighter (consider ATK bindings then, def best of class for that kind of bindings imo (or ATK labeled as Salomon/Atomic)) i would suggest you try a newer set of vipecs, either black or evos. For their use there is not better binding on the market imo - even if it is not perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfelot
i dunno man - the fiddle factor of rotating heel pieces has always seemed like the greater of two evils for me, but then i have never toured/skied with rotating heel designs. Again - i might be overly positive here, but i find operating the heel piece is just about as is easy as can be, and the sliding and non-rotating back piece makes for awesome power transfer i find. Getting in the front is not always a slam dunk first time around, but the other benefits of the design more than makes up for this short coming imho (like not even close).Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPERIOR
i can see how you can get insta-tele moments on first/second generation Whites ( an issue that can be partially mitigated by re-mounting the mounting plate further back minimizing the opening that snow can enter when in touring mode at the expense of forward adjustability if on were to get shorter sole length boots) but insta-tele'ing on Blacks? How is that even possible? Honest question that i am very interested in hearing what you think cause it. I do not see how the Black design could cause insta-tele'ing unless due to some sort of user error (not claiming the this is the case) or some super duper light weight snow was to somehow make its way into the heel piece preventing a positive lock in the skiing position.
Thanks guys. Any other thoughts on the original 13/14 Vipecs vs current Dynafit TLT Radical FT 2.0? I bought them last night with free shipping and 6% ebates rebate. Isn't it the TGR way to cycle through gear? If I change my mind or have trouble selling the Vipecs they may go back before the return window closes. I know there may be better options out there, but I'm not keen on dropping $525+.
https://www.backcountry.com/dynafit-...5nLWJpbmRpbmdz
Actually, switching to the Vipec Black has resulted in much less prerelease issues with the heel track. So, Kid Kapow, you are correct!
I believe that stamping your heel down to lock in your touring boot in soft pow is the only real tricky situation where the system can get clogged with snow or ice and can prevent a 100% lock of the mechanism.
I bet it’s happened to me once or twice with the Vipec black and probably 5 or 6 times with the white version (over 2 years).
Also, I’m wondering if micro adjustments of the moveable toe pin could help the step in process. However, the manual indicates that loctite be used to set the nut in place, and I just haven’t wanted to fuck with it.
I’d like to try the Tecton in comparison.
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So i'm pretty sure I got myself into trouble but just want to confirm. I mounted my Vipec Evos myself but I mounted the heel unit incorrectly. According to the video on youtube about making a jib for mounting vipecs (i'm not allowed to post links with my new account) the heel should be mounted between the heel plate front and the stop line...well after some forceful screwdriver-ing, that's exactly what i did. However, i think that's wrong and that it should be mounted between the back of the plate and the back stop line. The heel fits perfectly between the two stop lines. I'd post pictures but evidently my new account doesn't allow me to do that.
Can someone confirm this? That I need to move my heel plates forward by quite a bit?
Download the template from Powderguide and compare against where you drilled them.
... Thom
I've tried to download it off of slide wright website but it's a dead link. I can't seem to find it anywhere else.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
from the template sticky:Quote:
Originally Posted by finishthepint
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knut
Anyone have extra toes pieces?
I have some extra heels.
Great travel binding, IMO. Perfect for Japan.
I have had the Blacks and this is my third season on them. Yesterday this problem came up where one heel moved significantly far back on each skin up and had to be tightened in order to ski. My "guess" is stepping on the low riser on the way up somehow was engaging the binding adjustment screw to back off.Quote:
Originally Posted by HHTELE
Lindal responded to the quoted post as a warranty issue. I just had them in to the shop for a din check, but they are now 2+ years old and beyond stated warranty. I am going to look at them today and possibly put some vibratite on the threads to see if that solves the problem.
Any experiences/thoughts appreciated.
Mine were backing themselves all the way off the track, meaning the heel piece fell completely off the ski in the skintrack.
BD replaced the heels, haven't had issues since.
Thanks, I have started a warranty claim
What version were yours?Quote:
Originally Posted by sklar
Black Diamond has warrantied stuff on occassion that is outside the warranty period. Doesn’t hurt to ask them, especially since this is kind of a safety concern.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
Can someone else weigh their Vipec Evos (white/blue/black)? My toe seems high and am trying to figure out. I just received these new from backcountry:
My measured weights:
Toe: 270g & 271g
Heel: 230g
Brake attachment plate: 40g
Brake: 70g
The blister info has the toes 50g lighter:
Blister’s Measured Weight:
- Toe pieces: 210 & 214 g (with screws)
- Heel pieces: 224 & 223 g (with screws)
- 110 mm Brakes: 81 g each
- Total Weight per Binding: 515 & 518 grams
https://blisterreview.com/gear-reviews/2017-2018-fritschi-vipec-evo
my bad - forgot that Blister's weight was off - corrected in the other thread!
What's the recommended procedure for regular clean/lube of the sliding part of toe piece? My blacks weren't returning to center, presumably after too much dirt on spring hike/bike-to-ski. Called BD and they told me to hit it with a pressure washer, then lube the shit out of it with white lithium spray. Seems to have worked, but I'm feeling like I could do more during the season to prevent this. Apologies if it's been covered, couldn't find literature on lubing.
And yea, my heel pieces back out too, but very slowly. It's noticeable on step in before they get close to falling off the back.
The "Blacks"Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit
The last set of heels they gave me were from the evo's
Related: about to mount these in some old holes. What is the rear travel? I'm in a 327/28.5 and these were mounted for I think 27.5, and I want to use those holes. There is a 7mm difference between the jig lengths of 27.5 and 28.5Quote:
Originally Posted by finishthepint
24 or 25mm total travel. The Powderguide template locates it real close to the middle of the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
... Thom
Sorry for the lafe reply, but if memory serves me right the binding should be mounted between the stop lines in ski mode, meaning that it does not slide forward or aft of either of said lines when the skiing mode is engaged you are fine. If you run it either slightly aft or forward of the two lines, the main issue is that it can cause breakage or tear out the plate under extreme loads, but I know of people who have skied them behind the line (didn't want to remount) with zero issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by finishthepint
so the binding should not be fore- or aft of either of these stop lines in ski mode. If you see the rearward one, the binding is too far forward, and if you see the one toward the center of the ski, the binding is too far back.
Attachment 257072
so had this been in skiing mode = too far back, but it is in walk mode so no problems. Dunno if that made sense, i tried to find images online.
Attachment 257074
You will be fine in your new life 3.5mm behind the line (since 7mm back means your boot's center will move half that distance if i am thinking about this correctly), and still have a whopping 5.5mm of adjustable range :)Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
How are the brakes running on these nowadays? I want to order a set for Countdown 104Ls. 100 brake or 110?
From the tecton thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/....php?p=5497922
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Thanks! Sounds like 100s will work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Griff And Or
Wat r braks
Seriously though. Brakes are about 15% of the total weight
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Brakes are for putting skis together when you have to scramble and you wear mittens because you have Reynauds and cold hands and voile straps are a pain in the ass
Because every time you take your mittens off your fingers go numb and ruin the rest of your trip. So I stick to throwing my skis together with brakes
YMMV
Yes I realize voile straps are not impossible with mittens but for most day tours I am fine with the weight
If I think weight is going to bug me I have a pair of g3 synapses with salomon mtn bindings..with brakes
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I bought a pair of Helio 95s mounted with Vipecs off my local CL. These were previously demos and the Vipecs have demo plates underneath them.
Any idea if I will need to drill new holes on the skis in order to mount the bindings directly on the skis without demo plates?
Attachment 258008
Attachment 258009
they seem to be the same based off off this
https://www.wildsnow.com/11228/mount...ritschi-vipec/
or, the rear seems the same - my guess is that the front would be specified to be different if different, but that is a big assumption. Finding out should be easy enough - slide off the front, unmount the front binding from the plate and then see if the holes in the binding matches the screws that are holding the other plate attached to the ski.
And yes, if they do match and you do not need the rental plates no more, please keep me in me in mind if you decide to sell them ;)
I just mounted a pair of Vipec Blacks I picked up over the summer. I'm having an issue where the retainer clip that holds the brakes up moves with the heelpiece when I switch it to touring mode so that the brakes don't stay up. Is this a common case of needing some lubrication or did I do something on the install wrong?