This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
I bought a sheet of lexan that I cut into ski width strips and do the same thing when I remove a binding.
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This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
I bought a sheet of lexan that I cut into ski width strips and do the same thing when I remove a binding.
Or photocopy the binding and use as a paper template.
That won't help you align the bindings front to back or left to right.Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
With the lexan or transparency option, you remove the binding, measure and mark the centre line on the ski and the boot centre, and then mark those lines on the transparency/lexan along with the location of the holes.
Boom... home-made template for your BSL.
Yeah the plastic sheet is more reusable--each time I do a mount I save it in a folder--vs. paper which is usually one and done. Use a small punch to mark the topsheet thru the plastic and the hole stays small.
The other nice thing in addition to being easier than paper to match to a center line or the 0 mark as Shorty stated, is that if you have holes from previous mounts it's easy to see issues and shift the template around before you punch the topsheet.
After trying a few different ways, its my preferred way to mount bindings freehand.
Right, now that I've had my fifth cup of coffee, I revise my answer -- photocopying is stupid, Just print out the paper template. If you put that on a transparency, I think you'd have the best option.
I would've mounted my new skis, but, where do you guys get your hands on those stepped drill bits?
Got mine at tognarQuote:
Originally Posted by auxym
I'm going to mount some inserts next week. Last year I made a jig for my Plum Yaks. After removing them today I noticed that a screw in the heel was slightly off centre. If I drill the wider hole for the insert and accept the slight offset do I have a problem with the inserts and new screws? Or should I try and move the drill a bit and try to get it perfect?
If the screw was off centre on the original mount and you didn't notice any problems, you still won't when you put an insert in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambert
And it's pretty tough to get a new hole to not be centred in the same place as the original smaller hole.
Tognar as mentioned is good. I get mine at Artechski.com - great family owned bidness. I also use SVST.com, which has a lot of really good tools, but you need to open an account.Quote:
Originally Posted by auxym
I have it bookmarked, but have yet to use slidewright.com that appears to have a good offering as well.
And this dude gives deals to TGR folk and posts good info. here:Quote:
Originally Posted by auxym
http://www.slidewright.com/alpine-bi...drill-bits.php
Terry @ slidewright is awesome mag.
if ya just need one bit and aint anal about it being brand new i got a bunch all sizes
i mounted 270sumhin silverttas for our local special forces national guard and still have a few transparent sticky templates they aint real wide but wide enough for whole patterns and have a centerline marks on both dimensions if anyone would want em.
other than that i managed to drill through crazy georges beater iclantics removing a plastic plug to remount in old holes
good thing were tight
he got a free nuggie from the shop
and i owes him one of mine first time i stop in fogaritaville
Woo, thanks all for the info, easier to find than I thought. I ended up getting this pair mounted, but will def do it myself next time.
Just did my first mount, Tyrolia Adrenalins onto High Society FRs, followed lots of advice here, bought some scrap wood and mounted on the scrap first, I didn't use paper templates but a wax paper template that came with the bindings. Test mount = perfect. Real mount = toe piece went about 1mm too close to heel piece, as the walk/ski "hooks" at the heel don't allow the binding to freely release up and down (and I guess the coverage isn't that much when its locked, but I don't see that being a problem).
Need to dremel off a bit of the plastic to get them to move, only about 1mm and that's not plastic that faces the locking edge. Kind of sucks, but gotta screw up to learn I guess. I wonder if the wax paper shrunk (was about 6*C when I was drilling outside), since both mounts are exactly the same amount too close...
Anyways, thanks for all the info in the thread!
One option that might work: Loosen the binding screws a bit, re-center the binding, re-tighten the screws. If this works, it could save you from dremeling your new bindings. If you try this, be sure to re-glue the binding holes to prevent water from creeping in.Quote:
Originally Posted by vostok4
Mounted more of my own fucking skis last night.
Dynafits x 2 and the 5yr olds looks. No spinners but did need to work to center 1 out of 4 of the dynafit toes.
Killing it with the 3-5 year old crowd!
I just don't have enough play on any of the holes to get as much clearance as I need, as the screws get tightened down on the toe piece it really locks down to where it is, without much room for adjustment. The dremeling should be ok, I'm not too concerned about fucking things up.Quote:
Originally Posted by skimaxpower
Atta boy, that's the spirit!Quote:
Originally Posted by vostok4
Installed some inserts yesterday. First time for me. Had no problems but next time I really want a drill stopper. Couldnt find that in the right size. Didnt go to deep but its so much easier and quicker with a stopper.
Plum Yaks on Moment Tahoe and Moment Exit world.
http://i62.tinypic.com/24exetg.jpg
Try McMaster Carr, they have a huge range of available sizes. I got mine there for drilling inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambert
You have a steady hand or didn't drink enough. Stepped bits are great:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambert
http://www.slidewright.com/alpine-bi...drill-bits.php
But collars are good and can serve your life beyond skis:
http://www.slidewright.com/drill-bit...nd-hex-key.php
There's no stepped bit (yet) for installing inserts (5/16").
An easy alternative to do it without a drill stopper is to grind off your drill bit so that only the required length sticks out of the chuck - sorted!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambert
SVST makes (or has made) a 1/4" stepped bit that Slidewright sells for use with inserts or heli-coils. I've seen it and the step is very, very slight, so I feel more comfortable with the stop collar, but that may be unfounded. It's in the link above.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Interesting, I've been using an F bit or a 1/4" bit and 5/16" tap. No problems thus far (at least no one has come screaming back). Knocking on wood . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
I haven't done inserts in a while... you're probably right.Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
Has anyone ever reused the front two toe holes of an existing Rossi/Look mount when mounting a new Salomon binding? I picked up some Dynastar Arno Adams for €10 (couldn't resist) drilled for Rossi/Look but I have some spare Salomons I'd like to mount on them. Dodging the holes would mean mounting 4mm back or 30mm forward of midsole but reusing those holes would put me at +18mm which is my preference of the 3 options given the olschool placement of the ski's midsole line.
Those holes are 41.94mm width for Rossi/Look and 42.44mm width for Salomon (measuring in pixels from the templates at 1000ppi). So exactly 0.5mm difference meaning each of those holes would be exactly 0.25mm off where it should really be. Should I go for it? The skis won't likely be used for any serious skiing, have a good amount of metal in them and 0.25mm is maybe around the tolerance for printing a template then marking & drilling by hand anyway. When I mounted my Explosivs I didn't scale the template correctly and drilled the toe pattern 0.8mm too narrow and I got those screws in fine after a few tries (still holding fine 3 years later) but those were fresh holes not a pre-cut thread like I'm considering here.
The rear toe holes would be 10.56mm clearance centre-to-centre which I'm OK with.
Anyone? Otherwise should I go -4mm or +33mm on the Arnos?
http://media.newschoolers.com/upload...80/739180.jpeg
^ Probably fine, but later this weekend I could measure the width difference using my Jigarex plates and let you know.
I use this Fuller 1/4" drill stop, it's long so it's better aligned with the drill bit than short collars, which wobble a lot when they hit the ski. Two set screws make sure it doesn't slip (so you don't drill through the ski). And it's super cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambert
W.L. Fuller 1/4 OR "E" (.250) DRILL STOPhttp://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/i...1&a=B001APZDUG
I'd be happy if all my mounts were within +/- 0.25 mm. Since I'm normally drunk when doing the mounts, my mounts are more like +/- 1 mm. I offset it by skiing drunk. Hope this helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
Mounted my Kpows with some Look P18s today, metalic green on carbon fiber is so hawt.
Deleted.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
1/4" is correct!!! :)
I beg your pardon?Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
You meant to say, they are both 42mm apart, right?
Just mounted up three pairs of fucking skis - one fucking pair for me (997s on Rossi Scimitars) and two fucking pairs for my friend (997s on EHPs and Dukes on Turbos) - with zero issues, thanks to this thread :yourock:
And to the point above, I used the front two holes of a previously drilled pivot/fks mount for my Solly mount with no problems.
After mounting 25 plus sets of bindings with templates and hand layouts over the years I bought a fucking old jig for FKS/Pivots from a mag, and wow, mounting your own fucking skis is a dream. I did have to remove the centering clamps from the jig since they only handled sub 90 mm waist skis, but centering and clamping the jig is no big issue.
If you like mounting your own fucking skis try buying an old jig if you can. Definitely worth the investment.
Just get a jigarex. Money well spent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bosco
It does looks like a nice option, especially if one needs to mount multiple pairs of skis a year.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeroforhire
Jiggyrex FTW!
So a friend of mine has decided not to go to the shop he used to go to for most things... prices and service being shit. He tried to take skis to another shop to move bindings from one pair of skis to another and they said they couldn't do it because they don't have a jig. First of all, that's weak sauce. So I said I'd do it for some beer... he saves money and doesn't have to go back to the original shop he doesn't want to give business to any more.
So... when I was taking the bindings off I solidified my resolve to never pay someone else to mount a pair of my skis, ever… even if I don’t have a mount template I think I’d rather take my time and figure it out than pay some fucktard.
Here’s why:
When I was removing the screws on the toe of the first ski, at least one screw was not all the way in. I say at least because it never occurred to me to look for more than one… until I already had one binding off and was removing the other and saw 3 loose on the other ski’s toe piece. I have never seen this before so I have a hard time accepting that they all backed out on their own… probably just never tightened down enough. That’s both scary from a binding rip-out perspective but also from a performance perspective, since the toe would be sloppy. And the bindings are already-sloppy Fritschi's, so I'm surprised he could even ski on them!
When I was removing the heels, there are 3 long screws and 1 short screw for each heel… it’s quite obvious where the short screw should go when you look at the thickness of the plastic baseplate where the 4 holes go. On both heels they had put the short screw where one of the long ones should go, meaning there was maybe 1 thread engaged instead of the 4 there should be. Which means there was a long screw where a short one should be. Result is that one screw is more likely to rip out because it doesn't have enough bite, and one screw is too deep into the ski and might have resulted in a high spot on the base because it went deeper in to the ski than the hole was drilled.
On top of that, and I assume they used a jig, the holes were very slightly to the left side of the ski. That you will honestly probably never notice, but when I do mine by hand they are less than 0.5mm off centre.
So basically, on the original mount he paid good money to a shop to do a shitfuck job. He just thought they were too expensive and kind of douchey when he made the decision to boycott... not that they actively sucked at what they do.
Jesus.
I'll say it again for posterity:
Mount your own fucking skis! That is all.