The chainsaw thread...

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Originally Posted by Shadam

I don't doubt the elec sharpener is the shizzle, but when in the bush, either change the chain or sharpen it ...

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Agreed, but if you're sitting there in the bush sharpening a chain you are not cutting. It's so much faster to change the chain vs resharpening it by hand. And if you are in mostly virgin wood or western softwoods ( ie stuff without nails and barbed wire like we seem to have here in the Eastern woods) and bugger up more than two chains in a day, you are doing something wrong--or buying cheap Chinese chain.

I don't have any experience with the really cheap electrics, but $150+/- gets you a decent home sharpener. And then you can charge your friends to sharpen their chains. :)

I ended up scoring a real clean 044 for a good price. Psyched to get the new saw onto some wood.

I've never had occasion to use an electric sharpener, but I know others have had concerns with the speed of the sharpener actually tempering the tooth, making it almost impossible to sharpen by hand afterwards. YMMV

70-80cc saws with a 25"or longer bar, preferably with a winter kit, is my preferred tool. Husqi for balance and smooth high end revs when clearing brush, or stihl for low end torque when cutting and bucking the big rounds. I haven't run any of the newer models other than a fondle in the showroom, though.

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Originally Posted by Timberridge

Agreed, but if you're sitting there in the bush sharpening a chain you are not cutting. It's so much faster to change the chain vs resharpening it by hand.
I don't have any experience with the really cheap electrics, but $150+/- gets you a decent home sharpener. And then you can charge your friends to sharpen their chains. :)

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If that were the case, you wouldn't see hotshot sawyers or loggers sharpening in the field. We run about 30 saws, don't have an electric sharpener.

I'm not sure what kind of friends you have, but none of mine need someone else sharpening their chain.

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Originally Posted by grrrr

If that were the case, you wouldn't see hotshot sawyers or loggers sharpening in the field. We run about 30 saws, don't have an electric sharpener.

I'm not sure what kind of friends you have, but none of mine need someone else sharpening their chain.

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I forgot, this a pro forum. I'm just a casual user that doesn't cut everyday...sorry.

I sharpen by hand in the field and at home. Never liked the electric gizmo. Tried the dremel didn't like it. I don't even like to use a guide. I have a 1/2 dozen chains so I can just swap in the field if time matters but it usually doesn't. Gotta have a dirt chain or two handy for low stumping etc.

http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/acces...t/file-gauges/

I just use one of these ^^ on my sthil, its small fits easily in a pocket

the husky vs sthil argument is like ford vs chevy I think they both make good saws but if you want a saw with power that is going to last buy one of the pro level saws

Another simple question: do you start your saw on the ground or drop start it. I always drop start mine with the brake on. Seems much safer than putting your foot in below the throttle.

Actually two questions; I use the brake a lot. If I walk or stop cutting in general I use the brake. The professionals seem to never use the brake? Is this ok in your opinion?

I usually start it on the ground the first time and whenever I set it down. I'll drop start it if I happen to be standing up holding it, but I have the general impression that drop starting isn't as as safe, probably for two reasons: that's what the federal wildfire agencies teach, and I rarely use the brake unless I'm walking across some tumble-ass steep shit or bad jackstraw. But like chaps, it's not a bad idea.

I guess I'm beginning to sound like a terrible unsafe example and you probably shouldn't listen to me, but it isn't that unsafe to stick your toe in the handle to start...if your boot fits in there.

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Originally Posted by Timberridge

I forgot, this a pro forum. I'm just a casual user that doesn't cut everyday...sorry.

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Didn't mean to demean your comment. I really don't recommend using an electric sharpener, it's too easy to sharpen some teeth more than others. That can end up wrecking your bar. The best way to sharpen to mark one tooth, hand sharpen the same number of licks with the same pressure on each tooth. Takes me less time than replacing a chain.

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

I usually start it on the ground the first time and whenever I set it down. I'll drop start it if I happen to be standing up holding it, but I have the general impression that drop starting isn't as as safe, probably for two reasons: that's what the federal wildfire agencies teach, and I rarely use the brake unless I'm walking across some tumble-ass steep shit or bad jackstraw. But like chaps, it's not a bad idea.

I guess I'm beginning to sound like a terrible unsafe example and you probably shouldn't listen to me, but it isn't that unsafe to stick your toe in the handle to start...if your boot fits in there.

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The best way to start a saw is neither drop starting nor on the ground. The 212 class now teaches groin starting, which is better than the old rollover start. Brake off, the handle goes into your crotch.

As far as the brake goes, you'd be surprised how many saw injuries are caused by bringing the saw to rest against the thigh without braking. Ground the saw against the wood to stop the chain, slight flick of the wrist. Not much effort. I brake whenever I'm repostioning or stopping to evaluate.

Had a really interesting project the other day. A 36 hollowed out PPine got struck by lightning, burned from the inside out. When it fell, it jackstrawed 2 juni's and another pine on 60% slope. Had to cut it from the top down, lots of braking to get footing and figure out which to cut next while 15' up.

I find the groin start works the best for getting a saw started and if the saw isn't cutting I put the brake on

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I find the groin start works the best for getting a saw started and if the saw isn't cutting I put the brake on

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Rest it against my sequoia

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

I usually start it on the ground the first time and whenever I set it down. I'll drop start it if I happen to be standing up holding it, but I have the general impression that drop starting isn't as as .

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Starting on the ground is best especially from cold. it is nigh on impossible to set the chain running with your toe, because the saw has a safety handle with a lock out trigger on top - dead mans handle. Your hands are on the pull cord and the top handle.

Groin / crotch starting is perfectly sound method too.

I try to remember to do the above , but picked up some bad habits over the years, which I won't spell out here.

I use the brake as a matter of habit when I am moving, especially over rough or uneven ground

I still keep an old husqi 254, because I love it.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QMHykYTomdo

^^ Pixies, just cos its Saturday night, I'm having a whisky and reminiscing about when I was a full time cutter.

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Originally Posted by rather ripped

Another simple question: do you start your saw on the ground or drop start it. I always drop start mine with the brake on. Seems much safer than putting your foot in below the throttle.

Actually two questions; I use the brake a lot. If I walk or stop cutting in general I use the brake. The professionals seem to never use the brake? Is this ok in your opinion?

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I always drop start with the brake as well. A good buddy of mine is an arborist and he is the one that taught me to always use the brake when you're not cutting.

Crotch start.

Brake and chaps are a good idea if you're brushing, logging out trails or limbing and bucking trees on the ground. Too easy to be stomping around a bunch of shit and get lazy and hold the saw in left hand and unconsciously rest it on your leg while chain is spinning. Watched a girlfriend do that once logging out a trail. Cut right through the chaps and pants and hung up with the tiniest nick on her thigh.

I use the brake. I should probably buy some chaps and a hard hat.

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Originally Posted by telemike

Brake and chaps are a good idea if you're brushing, logging out trails or limbing and bucking trees on the ground. Too easy to be stomping around a bunch of shit and get lazy and hold the saw in left hand and unconsciously rest it on your leg while chain is spinning. Watched a girlfriend do that once logging out a trail. Cut right through the chaps and pants and hung up with the tiniest nick on her thigh.

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Situational awareness is your friend. That said, get the PPE.

So going back to the opening post, did Rideit ever build his lightweight saw?

WTF is this bullshit with going back to the original topic?

Tree fellers aren't quite the weight weenies that mtn bikers are. Still, I was hoping to see some stripped down saw with every steel fastener replaced with Ti bolts and screws by now. Maybe Ti clutch and springs, and bar, with steel chain contact surfaces. There just isn't that much steel that can be pared from a modern saw. It is still the best (only?) choice for chains and cranks and piston rings. The bar could be lightened though.

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Originally Posted by Jethro

Tree fellers aren't quite the weight weenies that mtn bikers are. Still, I was hoping to see some stripped down saw with every steel fastener replaced with Ti bolts and screws by now. Maybe Ti clutch and springs, and bar, with steel chain contact surfaces. There just isn't that much steel that can be pared from a modern saw. It is still the best (only?) choice for chains and cranks and piston rings. The bar could be lightened though.

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I was down at the local stihl dealer over the weekend and overheard a great conversation... A guy was saying the store should carry the high performance carbide chains. The shop owner asked how he felt about a $250 price tag on a 20" chain. Shut the guy up in a hurry.

What sort of price tag do you imagine is hanging off your titanium saw?

Well, I wouldn't spend any money on one, but I could appreciate a saw that cost four times what a standard saw did, but was 25% lighter. Just like bikers do with their ridiculously priced carbon bikes (I'm in this group). A better comparison would be the works motocross bikes the top pros ride. lots of trick parts and modded engines.

That carbide chain is for fire fighters, and while it probably stays sharp longer, I doubt it is lighter.

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Originally Posted by Jethro

Well, I wouldn't spend any money on one, but I could appreciate a saw that cost four times what a standard saw did, but was 25% lighter. Just like bikers do with their ridiculously priced carbon bikes (I'm in this group). A better comparison would be the works motocross bikes the top pros ride. lots of trick parts and modded engines.

That carbide chain is for fire fighters, and while it probably stays sharp longer, I doubt it is lighter.

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It's probably not lighter, but in the specturm of ti vs steel nuts and bolts, your rig would be lighter for fewer spare chains and not carrying a file and guide. Don't forget the carbon fiber scabard and ti bar tool!

you mean like racing saws?