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Do any of you have or know of a small, accurate, and reliable compressor method for filling shocks and forks?
I know they are out there, I just haven’t seen any in person. Would that $200-$400 regulator setup be usable without damaging a suspension component at 225 psi or whatever?
Very few regular compressors can go over 140psi, and the ones that can are not small. If you're in a hurry, just fill the shock/fork with your compressor to whatever pressure and then top it off with your shock pump. What's the scenario here?Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Just trying to save a little time pumping up to pressure from zero after working on a shock or fork. It’s really not a big deal, but if there were a small solution, I might be interested. As I say, I haven’t seen one, but I haven’t really looked. It’s more of a notion than a need. But yeah, I guess I could hit it with 100 or whatever first.
I thought you were supposed to fill slowly and compress throughout the fill to ensure the negative air chamber equalized? Or something.
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Good freakin’ point.
I watched shop bro do my 36 and as i remember he checked the pressure/ did the rebuild/ refilled using the big shop compressor to that same pressure with something along the lines of one of these gauges to control air pressure, buddy was really quick , I got him a 6-pack and the rest of the shop drank it
https://www.amazon.ca/AstroAI-Inflat...01729414&psc=1
but yeah IME with the ZEB and the RS super deluxe select I had to cycle them during the fill process
Lezyne digital floor shock pump is what you’re looking for.
Aha, I wasn’t aware of that product. Thanks, Dee!
Refilling shocks or forks from zero is so much nicer with the floor pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Just checked it out. Interesting that the head can accept Presta, must be to make it usable as an emergency backup pump? Sold out, though…
Really? I see it at several vendors.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I felt a little indulgent when I bought one last year. I found it for about $90 though. That indulgent feeling didn’t last. It’s a handy tool to have around. I pack it with on any trip longer than a weekend.
Maybe it also fills a niche as a floor pump for super high pressure track tires? Even if it is technically within their specified range, a lot of road pumps aren't going to be happy pushing 190PSI into a 19c track tire with regularity.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Sold out at wholesale suppliers…but I would do it for $90.Quote:
Originally Posted by evasive_MT
I have a Lenyze floor pump that goes to 220 and is not digital (and didn't Gunder say digital ones are rarely accurate? Ha.) and want to sell. I ordered a new chuck for it that I think comes Wednesday, then I can ship and sell for cheeeep. Make me an offer.
I’ve had one on item watch for 8+ months….Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I didnt say they are not accurate... What I did say, or was trying to say, is the accuracy tend to very depending on the battery voltage, as they are calibrated to be pretty accurate when the batteries are new, once the batteries start to loose their charge, the accuracy goes right out the window.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
I actually converted my Lenyze dirt drive floor pump to a digital one, when the built in analog gauge quick working.... so far the digital one is ok, but this is a reminder I need to change the batteries on it!
FWIW, I dont like the idea of of using an air compressor to fill shocks. The pressure isn't an issue, but filling it too fast, can burp / displace the seals and cause issues. The reason most companies advertise they have nitrogen filled shocks, isn't because nitrogen is better (nitrogen makes up 78% of air) it is because they use large tanks of it with a regulator to fill them, as its easier / quicker than hand pumping and safer then using a compressor, as you can regulate the flow.
Ah, gotcha. Good to know. My Lenyze (and my Joe Blow every day floor pump) is reading 5psi above the milton hand gauge I bought - so I went to go-Ride (respected local shop) to see if it matched the shop gauge. The shop gauge was that POS Topeak D2 that was 7-8 psi off that i bought recently and returned to buy the Milton, ugh. The Milton matched the Go-Ride Topeak D2 though. I don't know what to believe, but I guess if the Go-Ride Topeak was way off the workers would know. Did there gauge have a new battery though? What a dumb journey, ha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Why not just use compressed air then?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Nitrogen has a slightly higher specific heat (heats up slower).
The removal of oxygen will also reduce the rate of any oxidation that occurs in a system.
I think you have a little less maintenance with N2 as it tends to not migrate quite as quickly (you won't lose pressure as quickly over time).
I have no idea if I'd ever be able to tell the difference.
Screwdriver report. Received the Wihas, tested them out, and love them. Best screwdrivers I've ever used, and I like the handles better than some others (like Wera). So I'm all in. Just ordered a set of 12 slotted and phillips. If I still like those then I'll add precisions, the torx, then nut drivers over time. Still not sure I need nut drivers, though I do use the random sized channellock nut drivers I already have now and then...
Anyway, big thumbs up for the Wiha drivers, and it also seems that they are among the more competitively priced of the high end brands. Slotted 3.0, 4.0, 5.5, 6.5, 8.0, 10.0, phillips 0, 1, 2, 3, and shorty slotted 6.5 and phillips 2 for $78 shipped is pretty damn inexpensive.
Pozidrive 3 was well priced too (needed for binding adjustments)
I've always understood this to be the main reason, along with canned nitrogen being very dry. You could use very dry air, but I'd bet the cost ends up being about the same as nitrogen, and you don't get the added benefits of reducing oxidation and better thermal properties.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
High pressure (like 2000-3000psi) nitrogen bottles are easy to find and cheap at welding/industrial gas supply stores.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
I was going to add the moisture content, etc.... which eliminates the bit of condensation you'll get in enclosed systems with heating and cooling, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I suspect my topeak is slightly off (but who knows, the only things I have compared it to directly could be off too), but what I really care about is consistency.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
It is the only gauge I really use (my lezyne floor pump gauge that goes to like 200 is impossible to read with accuracy at tubeless MTB pressures), and its not that important that when it says 22psi, it is exactly 22psi. Far more important is that when it says 22psi, that's when I like how my tire feels.
I'd really prefer it to actually be accurate, but I like that it is small, inexpensive, and not super sensitive to handling.
That said...I guess I should make sure my batteries are fresh!
I bought a 5 piece Wiha screwdriver set for work, because it's actually needed on very expensive screws that are 'order online only' when we have to replace them. They are awesome, great handles and a great fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
All true, but I just would like to know if I run my tires on 30 or 25 psi. I've been telling friends wayyyy faster than me that I roll some certain tires at 25psi - now I'm thinking it was 20psi when that happened and no, I'm not a bad-ass cornerer at all. I've been running higher pressure now to see what 30-32psi should be - now my suspension feels like shit when going over rocks slowly, ha. it's just a mind fuck for me, that's all.Quote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
At the end of the day, all that really matters is whatever gauge you choose to use, reliably provides consistent measurements. Doesn't really matter if its a bit high or a bit low, as long as its always off by the same amount.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
The main difference is most air compressor system are set up to maintain a very high tank pressure, and your filling attachment does not have a regulator built into maintain the flow. All it does is tell you what pressure you filled it to. An industrial tank setup with a gas regulator on it, allows you to control your flow rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
Secondly, the air volume in bike suspension systems ( or any for that matter) is so low, you wold be hard press to calculate any difference. Second, all of the metal components have a coating on them to reduce friction and prevent oxidation. Only thing that doesn't, is the seals, but if you are doing a proper rebuild they should be fully coated in grease / oil.
Nice. Glad you like them!Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
As I stated above, you are dealing with such a small volume, you are not going to be able to see any difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Exactly. You just need a good regulator.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Once again, the volume is so low, there is not going to be any difference. In all of the suspension components I have rebuilt over the years, I have not once, seen any issue with oxidation or moisture in any of them. It simply isn't a problem. What is a problem is dirt contamination when the seals start to break down due to friction. It's widely accepted that the seals are a wear item, yet 99% of people go way beyond the suggested service intervals and then wonder why there suspension feels like shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier