Official ATK Binding Thread

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Originally Posted by fleaches

For some complicated logistical reasons I can either have skis + mill but no bindings or skis + bindings but no mill. So I'm trying to decide which I am less likely to screw up.

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Buy the ATK jig from Hagan (waiting on mine) then you’ll be for sure set!

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Originally Posted by fleaches

For some complicated logistical reasons I can either have skis + mill but no bindings or skis + bindings but no mill. So I'm trying to decide which I am less likely to screw up.

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Skis + bindings for the win.

A hole in perfect agreement (drilled with an end mill) with a questionable template is still a questionable hole.

The binding is the ultimate template. Just ask @xxx-er.

... Thom

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Originally Posted by CaliBrit

Buy the ATK jig from Hagan (waiting on mine) then you’ll be for sure set!

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Actually this is a legit third option. I forgot there's a local mag who has one that I could maybe borrow...

Thanks all!

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BOOM [emoji95]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bf4f8fa17e.jpg

Nice !

Any thoughts on using 180 helio mounted on Head kore 117 in a 189 length ?
for pure touring powder days.

Why not ? You don’t need a beefy binding with strong dampening for powder.

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Originally Posted by D-Roc

Allow me young man... lol

I do a ton of ski mountaineering and have over 100 days on these guys, while i think the binding is amazing, repeat amazing, the front brake has a few limitations as far as tech ski mountaineering is concerned.

Mind you i only use it in the BC. No resort use. Typically do flying dismounts when transitioning.

Front Brake Gripes:

- A Frame carrying skis, the brake cannot be locked down even if you dry fire the front pins. The brake gets snagged on the bag sidewalls and can be a bit of a pain to get it to settle.
- Spring skiing / corn conditions / icey conditions; i have noticed build up of it under and around the brake after skiing and transitioning to go back uphill, in that i cannot get the brake to engage down and have to remove the ski and start chipping around it.
-The top plastic housing piece has actually cracked / fallen off twice! I talked to Mike (Hagan) about this
-The brake when engaged does not tuck the brake arms
-Precarious transition stances... think the top of the Sickle where space is limited etc. After booting and making delicate / balancy moves to step in, having to make one or two more moves to engage the brake can be a little concerning
-Just having to engage it in a separate fashion lol

Again, the binding design and confidence under foot is amazing. Also the freeride spacer is a gamechanger to double up on TGapps opinion (BTW Hello dude!)

Anyone comment on my original ask about the Helios 350? (Helio 350 is the new Core 12 Pro / Raider 12 Heel Tower Assembly and just a brakeless front of a Core 12 with a wider mount pattern ... am I right in my assumption there?)

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Originally Posted by tgapp

^^ super good feedback, i think those are all valid points.

- i've definitely experienced annoyance when carrying skis a-frame, but most of the time i carry diagonal because of shitty airbag limitations.
- i've never had them ice or build up in spring conditions, but i can see exactly how they would. i also run a B&D shim that keeps them up above the ski enough such that ice buildup/brakes catching has never been an issue for me
- the plastic jobber breaking makes total sense, i've always felt like that was a potential weakpoint in an otherwise strong design

honestly though, i think the way they step in during hard transitions is a strength, not a weakness. i know you gotta do one more clicky thing to get them to hide, but i also like being able to drop them from my pack and have brakes out no matter what.

also what are flying dismounts?? is that a way of getting extra points in strava?? :rolleyes2

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the old boomer ski tech whose got more days on these atk 14 and now 2.0 than the 2 of ya combined
laughed at your exchange
i like the front brakes myself
oh and i haz access to the hagen jig
#stravasucks

trying to figure out what Freeride spacer will work with BD Helio 180. Also is it possible to mount the freeride spacer to the adjustment plate?

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Originally Posted by teamdirt

trying to figure out what Freeride spacer will work with BD Helio 180. Also is it possible to mount the freeride spacer to the adjustment plate?

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This is what I'm planning to try, I'll report back in a couple of weeks. You'd need AL05 universal spacer, and check with your specific boots if the gap falls in the adjustment range of the spacer.

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Originally Posted by fleaches

This is what I'm planning to try, I'll report back in a couple of weeks. You'd need AL05 universal spacer, and check with your specific boots if the gap falls in the adjustment range of the spacer.

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Thx for the info. Boots are Hoji free 130

Has anyone had time on both the Helio 200 and 350 or the ATK/Hagan equivalencies who can comment on the difference skiing and touring? I am torn between the two to mount on a pair of La Sportiva Vapor Svelte 188s, it’s a 1300g 96 mm waisted ski to be used for exercise and spring touring. Obviously one major difference is brakes vs leash, I have never gone brakeless and have some hesitation...


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Originally Posted by xksrx

Has anyone had time on both the Helio 200 and 350 or the ATK/Hagan equivalencies who can comment on the difference skiing and touring? I am torn between the two to mount on a pair of La Sportiva Vapor Svelte 188s, it’s a 1300g 96 mm waisted ski to be used for exercise and spring touring. Obviously one major difference is brakes vs leash, I have never gone brakeless and have some hesitation...


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I haven't been on the 350 (or any Raider variant), but the 200 feels solid to me. They went on a pair of GPOs which previously had Vipecs mounted on them. Of course, I take these out in soft snow, so I can't speak to refrozen Spring stuff.

The 400+ gram savings per ski (over the Vipecs) was noticeable. I'm slowly becoming a leash convert, but that's consideration only you can determine. I'm a big fan of B&D breakaway leashes, with the added benefit of security when clicking in, in dicey situations. There's a good dialog about that over here: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...50#post5940350

Another difference that may or may not matter to you is riser height. If you like really high risers, then the 350 would suit you better.

I'd call the riser height on the 200's single flipper to be medium (pins forward) and medium-plus (pins rearward).

... Thom

Moment just announced their Voyager XIV, which is a redesigned ATK FR14 with a smaller ramp (sits more flat, no need to shim the toe).

In matte black of course.

https://www.momentskis.com/products/voyager-xiv

Rad.

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Originally Posted by macon

Moment just announced their Voyager XIV, which is a redesigned ATK FR14 with a smaller ramp (sits more flat, no need to shim the toe).

In matte black of course.

https://www.momentskis.com/products/voyager-xiv

Rad.

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i was just about to share this. Seems like a pretty neat design and it’s cool to see moment pairing up with ATK for a free ride oriented tech binding!

id ride it if I had the cash.

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Originally Posted by macon

Moment just announced their Voyager XIV, which is a redesigned ATK FR14 with a smaller ramp (sits more flat, no need to shim the toe).

In matte black of course.

https://www.momentskis.com/products/voyager-xiv

Rad.

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YES! We worked with their engineers to get rip of the the steep Euro ramp and make it more North American freeride.

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Originally Posted by Melee

YES! We worked with their engineers to get rip of the the steep Euro ramp and make it more North American freeride.

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ahh that's way cool - some would say that the ramp angle is the only serious downside to ATK binders. nice work!

soon all bindings will be made by ATK, and just whitelabeled by everyone else.

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Originally Posted by Melee

YES! We worked with their engineers to get rip of the the steep Euro ramp and make it more North American freeride.

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i just got a pair of the new FR 14s, youre saying the moment toes are higher than the stock ATK?

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Originally Posted by tgapp

ahh that's way cool - some would say that the ramp angle is the only serious downside to ATK binders. nice work!

soon all bindings will be made by ATK, and just whitelabeled by everyone else.

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Yeah i wonder about this... Why is atk diluting their brand by doing so many collabs/OEM deals in NA?

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Originally Posted by Westcoaster

i just got a pair of the new FR 14s, youre saying the moment toes are higher than the stock ATK?

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Yes. The ramp on a ATK FR14 is 11mm. The ramp on the Voyager XIV is 7.5mm

Hard to see someone picking the Helio 350 over the voyager from your site since same price

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Originally Posted by cat in january

Hard to see someone picking the Helio 350 over the voyager from your site since same price

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Well, if you are a lighter human and cant work with the base release value of 8 then the Helio 350 is a great option.

Wow, looks like we have 4 different brands whitelabeling ATK bindings in the US now

Moment, Majesty, Hagan, Black Diamond, am I missing any others?

Kudos to Moment for remedying the ramp angle issue, glad there are manufacturers paying attention to this important detail

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Originally Posted by Benneke10

Wow, looks like we have 4 different brands whitelabeling ATK bindings in the US now

Moment, Majesty, Hagan, Black Diamond, am I missing any others?

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La Sportiva did it first about 10 years ago, but the toe wings kept breaking so they stopped.

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Originally Posted by Benneke10

Wow, looks like we have 4 different brands whitelabeling ATK bindings in the US now

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It seems that at least two of these "whitelabelers", Hagan and Moment, are creating homebrewed variations of the ATK bindings. Maybe the folks at ATK don't want to mess with that part?

cheers,
john