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My old mechanic told me Sram needed more stretch in their cable to make the 1:1 shift ratio less brutal to yank on. And that it makes Shimano shifters sloppy. I believed him because he’s better at mechanic-ing than me.
Bottom bracket spacing is annoying. Bottom bracket/crankset moving target standards are the devil. Currently waiting for an E13 crank puller to arrive in the mail so that I can actually work on my fucking new (used) bike. Retarded.
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E13 should be shot for not designing that crank with a self extracting bolt but in.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Those cranks come with the extracting tool, dude who sold you the bike should have included it. Sucks to have to wait on a $13 tool just to remove your cranks.
I'm calling bullshit on that. Bike cables stretching is a myth. They don't, and a .1mm difference doesn't change that fact.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
New cables definitely stretch. If you prestrecht when installing (pull by hand, then adjust tension) it's noticeable.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I don't think the difference between 1. 0 and 1.1 is significant for bike use, but who knows.
The cables don't stretch. They settle into the pinch bolts, the housing liner compresses, and the housing ends seat into the shifter / derailleur. All of which gives the impression of the cable getting longer, but the cable itself hasn't stretched at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Like chain stretch? I think that is my most hated saying in the bike industry.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Well, at least a used chain does actually get longer (unlike cables). But yeah, "stretch" isn't a very accurate descriptor for the bushings wearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Ok, dumb question. If the chain gets longer, why isn’t that stretch? What’s more accurate to what’s happening?Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
None of the parts are actually stretching. What happens is, the pins that hold the links together and the inside of the narrow plate pairs that they ride on are wearing, so that those interfaces get sloppier and the chain gets longer overall.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcski
Is calling that something different that stretch a bit pedantic? For sure.
Ok thanks. Never gave it much thought. I guess the tork that would be needed to actually stretch the link would be unlikely for a human to do w a peddle stroke if i think about. Thx. But ya, definitely pedantic lol
They didn't come with the cranks that were installed on complete builds as far as I know. At least none of my buddies who have them had ever seen one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Well, that’s a bit of a stretch.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Inelastic elongation is not stretch!
:p
Is that like an erection?
I actually bought a heavier spring a while ago for my dhx 2 and my fat ass, so not sure why this stirring in my head, but I can’t seem to truly make sense of this guide:
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=672
Specifically for the SLS springs, reading the first two charts on the page. My show is 230x65. So from the first chart it seems like with a 230 e2e, you could go with the spring that is as long as the 6.1” TLG. But that is for shocks that have 3” of travel. 65mm stroke (which I assume is what they are referring to in the “travel”) is about 2.56” which would point me towards the one with 2.75 inches or less and TLG of 5.5”- which makes me think the spring I have is too short?
Yeah generally a bit confused.
can someone explain it to me like I’m 8?
Edit: not to mention that the part numbers on fox site and ones most retailers have are different, and many out of stock, but I digress.
I'm no expert on coil shocks, but have kinda been going through the same shit recently, so here goes:
1. Fox springs made for 65mm stroke will fit in your 65mm stroke shock. That will always be the case. There will be a lot of thread exposed.
2. It's hard to find overall spring length when buying springs. You'd think this shit would be more standardized, but it's not really.
3. Changing springs to figure out your ideal spring rate gets annoying and expensive. Especially if they're orange, or yellow, or white. Or titanium.
4. To offset #3, Fox has done you a solid with their chart. If someone's got a spring that's made for a longer stroke shock (up to 76mm stroke) it'll still work. But there will barely be any threads showing. Maybe you can save some coin digging through parts bins and classifieds while you figure out your spring rate.
5. The shorter spring will be lighter. Because less material. But thanks to the magical linear properties of coil shocks, a longer spring with the same spring rate will still feel exactly the same.
6. You can also use springs from other companies since Fox shocks have a smaller diameter than others. But you'll need to buy a $15 adapter to get it to thread on right. Case in point, you could get a Cane Creek Progressive Spring. Warning: They're heavy fuckers.
Thanks man, glad I’m not alone.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
And point 5 clears up a worry of mine that somehow the 74mm I have was wrong for my 65 stroke shock when there is a 67mm spring out there.
My bud snapped his derailleur off last weekend and the kook hadn't replaced his replacement hanger in his pack. So we turned it into a single speed to ride out. The biggest pia was breaking the master link. Aside from fumbling around by hand, does anyone carry a plier in their pack? Is there a multitool that does the trick?
I promptly throw the master link in the trash when I open up a new chain due to this. I carry a few extra links and my multitool has a chain tool that works well enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
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String (shoelace) or a zip tie can work to undo a quick link.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
For a trailside fix, if I can't break the master link with my hands, I'll just punch a rivet in the chain (since I almost always carry a chain tool). If I have an extra master link with me, I'll shorten and rejoin the chain with that. Otherwise, I'll rejoin the chain the old fashioned way with the chain tool (which isn't strong, and is only a temp fix to get back to the car). I'll save the chunk of chain I removed and re-install with master links once I'm back in civilization.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
That's all very much a worst case scenario. Single speeding a full suspension bike with nothing to take up chain slack doesn't work well (at all) due to chainstay growth as the suspension compresses. You either have to leave the chain fairly slack, or expect it to effectively lock out your suspension (which is pretty hard on pretty much all of the affected components). In practice, I'll do everything I can to keep the chain running through the derailleur (even if the derailleur can't shift). Unless it's completely fuckered, I can usually bend things back into place enough to kinda sorta keep the drivetrain marginally functional as a single speed, but with the chain still running through the derailleur. And if it's less than a very long climb back to the car, I'll just take the chain off and treat the bike like a strider (or just walk).
I carry these on some bikes,
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...iABEgLM__D_BwE
And these on others.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...ts/pack-pliers
Haven’t actually needed either since I started carrying them. The wolftooth has link storage, which is cool.
Right on. Yeah, we were laughing when making it a single. Either too tight or too loose. It worked, barely, and thankfully didn't break the chain.
Just saw the wolftooth, that seems like a good tool to have in the bag. thanks
Chains don't break as much as they used to. I still carry the tool. Broke two chains last year and rode it out with no chain. Suspension works even better with no chain BTW. Rippped downhill mostly.
Yeah, the Wolftooth one lives in my hip pack as well, haven't ever needed it since I got it, of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I'd agree with Toast, if the quick link doesn't go by hand then well, I'm carrying a chain tool for a reason. But, I carry the Wolftooth thing now after a couple incidents with riding partners that flatted and then couldn't get the tubeless valve out of their rim to put a tube in. People have a tendency to over-tighten that nut and then it seizes at the worst possible time, and you're left with a flat that's nearly impossible to fix. The Wolftooth plyers are perfect for giving you that little bit of extra leverage to get it apart. It's weird how many bike people don't have any kind of pliers in their packs. I rarely need them, but when I do, I need them really bad.