Monday night is 18' @ 18 sec. Time to scamper to safer harbors.
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Monday night is 18' @ 18 sec. Time to scamper to safer harbors.
Small but super clean conditions, somehow I managed to be in the right spot on a lot of the set waves. Just one of those days when a small crowded day can still be lots of fun
Gotta love twilight sessions. Head high, zero wind and 4-5 guys out all getting waves one after another. Damn, the captain and cokes tasted good afterwards.
CDIP is looking like the morning session could be good for the last day of 2011. See you out there and if not, have a great day and an awesome start to your 2012 this weekend.
I had to google CDIP. Never head that one before. Thanks for the heads up. Cool site. Much more crowded this morning once the fog burned off but still got a few. Forecast sounds like more swell coming Monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
I surfed Newport, the day after x-mas, and it was great. Head high on the sets. Clean. Peaky. I surfed from around 10-1, and it was still good when I got out.
Just got back from 3 days at Mammoth. The surf was much better than the snow.
^^^at KW now, and am missing home. I've been riding the mid sized boards and the waves have been hefty, thick and overhead. Got to love these swells. Best one topped at 12'@17 and super clean in the morning. OTOH, the four WRODs have been fast, firm and, well icy. Still, this is better than next week, where I'll be SUPing in the canals of Naples... Naples, Florida.
Anyway, a few from the past month.
The one that got away.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PNEPc9Zg1p...111218_589.JPG
This guy can surf.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DzL5MyF2_m...111218_582.JPG
more at the blog
^^ Nice shots.
Today is killing me. I'm on the couch, with a fever, and Newps/Huntington/Uppers are all pumping! Head high. Perfect high pressure.....Days like today are the worst to be sick on the couch. I probably should not torture myself on surfline.
It looks like Ocean Beach is PUMPING!
Great New Years Day. My surf buddy and I got the girls to come out early with us. They walked my doggie while we got an hours session in, then breakfast and the start to a great day. Hope you guys all had a wonderful start to the year too. Days end now and sitting with a glass of wine listening to the surf. Pretty cool when I can hear it breaking 10 blocks from the beach.
Sheet glass and perfect sunset tonight with head high and some OH sets pushing through. CDIP is reading 9.2' at 17 sec right now so hopefully that will start hitting the buoys soon.
Pumping this morning. Surfed 6-7:30. High tide made it a bit funky but bombs were had. Going to build during the day hopefully. I'm going to work and will try and get some photos from La Jolla Cove if it's breaking.
Was more than this out of shape jong wanted to deal with, so the doggy and I took the 2 hour walk along the coast to check it out. There were some bombs out there. If it calms down a bit, I will give it a go Saturday.
Couple of photos from today around La Jolla. First is looking south from Bird Rock towards PB Point at high tide this morning. Second is from the Cove at lunch. It's breaking but not nearly as big was Big Wednesday 2007. Last one is from my friend's house at the Cliffs this afternoon. Looks stupid big.
I'm officially wiped out. Good size waves with lots of paddling just to stay in the zone.
2 hour session last night of well overhead waves, lots of paddling. Really fun sets with some good push.
3+ hour sesh today and my arms are noodles. I could barely paddle for a wave at the end.
From the Union Tribune yesterday, that would be a lot of water to duck dive on the way out. My arms are toast
http://media.utsandiego.com/img/phot...1_t900x507.jpg
Glad you boys down south got a little of the juice. OB was maxed last weekend. Now, it's come down to playful size, and I'm pretty sure the rest of the coast is flat. Good time to rest the arms.
Surfed 36th street in Newport yesterday(Saturday). It was super fun, head high, glassy, a bit peaky. I surfed from 3 to 5:20, got out when it got too dark. When I first paddled out, the low tide was making it a bit walled. There were some zippy corners, but definitely pick and choose. It was still fun, as there were not too many people. From 28-36 was better, but absolutely packed. As the tide filled back in, things go really good. The corners that were not makeable became makeable, and the makeable corners became zippy, down the line walls. It ended up being a great session, as there were not too many people for how many waves were coming through.
Today should still be pretty good, although things are dropping.
This has been an insane run of surf. Perfect wind conditions, lots of swell. It's times like these that I love California.
Finally got back to CA and out in the water today. Still a little juice out there at the right reefs. Small, head high plus, and super fun. Until the tide went negative. Then it got a bit weird.
Surfing under a full moon is still one of the coolest things I've experienced
Mid day session today. No wind, shoulder+ sets, low tide beach break with left and right nugs doubling up. I went for the lip smack and this perfect inside pit opened up underneath me as I was coming back down. I shoulda been in that one, woulda been a clean exit
And this town has some good spots for moon lit sessions. Years ago, I got Pleasure Point well overhead a number of times. You could see the sets lining up at Sewers. Perfect.
Woke up this morning and was reminded of some wipeouts. My left arm is a bit sore, and it looks like I took a pretty good fin hit. Did not break the skin, but there is a very sore muscle under a six inch long, 1-2mm wide red line. Ouch. Picked that one trying to drop into a right barrel. Slide in over the ledge, but my fins slipped on the face, lost contact, and then I got drilled by the lip. Early in the set. By the time I broke through, I was all the way down the line and right up on the reef.
Earlier, I was surfing a left that has a pinch at the corner. When things are working, you can take off deep, and come around the bottom on the pinch. This way you get a barreling section, that closes out, but after a long bottom turn, you get a wrapping, semi-hollow, super carvey section. Thing is, you need to get to the bottom of the wave, and way out in front to not get munched by the ledge. This wave will be breaking in waist minus deep water when a touch overhead. I thought I was way out in front, in the middle of my bottom turn and home free. So I really dug into that turn. And then it ledged underneath me. Hard. I got munched.
It was nice to be out on a day that still had that kind of fun involved, after missing the past two swells.
This is exactly why 90% of the barrels I make are frontside. If I'm driving down the line backside and back door the section then I'm usually good but dropping under the lip backside is rare for me because of fin slippage, usually only on surf trips will I make some of thoseQuote:
Slide in over the ledge, but my fins slipped on the face, lost contact, and then I got drilled by the lip.
Side note, a good majority of the reefs that barrel at the takeoff in SD seem to be lefts, so it seems my only chance to practice is on surf trips.
you guys are killing me over here. winter's here with no incoming swell for 2 weeks now. may be waves thurs fri, but winds way too strong to enjoy it at all, then back to flat for awhile.
heading to tamarindo with the gf to stay with friends in 2 weeks, so that should be nice.
keep it coming
rog
Here are some shitty shots I got during the last 5 days of swell around OC, not nearly as big and burly as SD but some fun drops, pits & beatings. Check it...
Huntington Cliffs
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7113/img4066r.jpg
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/8933/img4055w.jpg
North side HB pier
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/8039/img4203qu.jpg
Trail 3
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2140/img4318h.jpg
Lowers
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/7069/img44192.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3709/img44182.jpg
nice shots. like the northside hb shot. is that the big part of the swell, or the smaller days? just curious, as it seems to taper even more than i'd expect.