Anyone else get some today...?

Even with a really deep morning tide, today was the biggest day of the fall so far at Blacks. Sets were slightly overhead with the occasional bombs clearing out the lineup every 20 minutes or so. Caught one of those and a couple smaller ones; it was enough to call it a successful morning. I assumed that with the deep tide it would take the size down a couple notches but I was really undergunned on a 5'11" thruster.

Next week it looks like Santa is bringing waves to CA, with several sizeable swells but the largest appearing on Christmas Eve.

P&C, I'm on a time crunch tomorrow so I'll surf Law St from 6-7am. White Rav 4 w/ WA plates, parked on Ocean St that is adjacent to the grassy park on the hill. On Google Maps it's called Palisades South Park but I've never heard anyone call it that. I'll probably be there by 5:45 or 5:50 so I can bail and go for a run if the surf isn't working. With the nearly full moon there'll be plenty of light.

The first time I surfed my Jeff Bushman, coming off two plus years on the Aiken plastic blown board I was able to catch waves. But every time I stood up the board would slip out from under my feet. To the left. To the right. No matter what I did I could not stand up on it. A few sessions later I was making bottom turns and a few more after that I was riding harder and smoother than I ever been on my old board.

Eddie on Yellow Alert for Sunday ......

I was just going to bump the Eddie chance on Sunday. 30 to 35 ft forecast.

Thanks for the encouragement y’all. I think a new wetsuit will do me some good. My legs are numb after about 30 mins in the morning and that sure doesn’t help a rookie with standing up on a board

CCS - sorry I missed ya. We’ll have to meet up post new years once Im back

Looks like a pretty good swell coming through. Would be fun to watch. Any here have enough nuts for triple overhead?


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TOH is about as big as I go these days. I used to chase bigger but I was a few decades younger and before I bothered chasing any snow. You need to keep your surf focus once you are out in that size.

I'll be looking at Scotts and Middle Peak over the next few days. We are forecast to top 25' surf around here. I imagine Mavs being significantly bigger.

The past four days has been great. Tuesday was solid DOH and I got a number of waves on my 7'6" with no real pain or suffering. The next three days I was at the ledge with surf ranging from 6-10' and it was oh so much fun. My 6'4" was still delivering on the bigger sets which is kind of insane.

On Thursday I grabbed this one 8' X 8'. I mean this thing was thiiiiiick. Two turns moved me like 60 yards but those turns were fucking insane. Both just crushing the lip. This wave was o juicy but I was on top of things and my turns were perfectly countering the force. So much fun out there.


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Hell yeah Ott!

So never got to look at Scotts. I imagine it was a no paddle out zone with maybe some insane waves across the outside. I can't see how the channel would maintain.

Finally got down to West Cliff this afternoon for a walk with my mom. She had no idea what a treat she was seeing.

Swift St was working. Maybe 7 or so out. No one else anywhere along West Cliff other than maybe the Lane/ Cowells. The wave was easily twenty feet but I think it was quite a bit bigger actually. Somewhat soft/ easy looking drops. Take in to account it was at least twenty feet, so easy is relative.

I saw one guy grab a bit one and make the drop to the bottom. As he made the long down the line bottom turn the first section slow motion style caught up with him. He was maybe standing tall at the bottom of 30' of white water, got pass the section and rode up the face all the way to the top to place his turn and project through the next section - and good thing he did because it roped as much as a wave of that size ropes and he flew through it. So fucking insane the few rides is saw.

My mom asked if I wish I were out and explained I was happy to have her as an excuse. The wave actually looked sort of user friendly. The usually rock jump off point looked harder than tough. And figuring out where you'd aim to go in also seems a challenge. And the waves were big. But oh so nice looking.

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Cell phone was not ideal. The bigger waves fully put riders in the shadow so I could not get any of the stops mid face.

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This is towards the end of the wave where the light worked better. Backing off?

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There is a dude on this wave somewhere. He's tiny and you can see how long it is. These would line up and peel.


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I'm gonna try to look in the morning. Swell is to drop a lot but it's still gonna be kind of huge.


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Yeah, I was down at Swift - Stockton. That wave always has the rippers on it! Guys I saw were killing it. Certainly seems like the local only spot. Every person I've seen surf there is borderline pro or pro.

How about the wharf! Jeezus! [emoji33] Not my pics.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3a13130d4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3cc9b5e175.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b3b04367d3.jpg

The Dolphin was looking for a new location. Down by the river mouth looks lovely.

Not all pros. I surf there a bit and I'm far from pro anything. Today my neighbor was out. High School teacher. Solid surfer, but just some guy who lies here. I think one of the cool things about SC is how many really fucking good surfers are living and surfing here. If you head out into good waves, there will always be rippers around you.

Just looked at winds for tomorrow, Boo,

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Originally Posted by Ottime

The Dolphin was looking for a new location. Down by the river mouth looks lovely.

Not all pros. I surf there a bit and I'm far from pro anything. Today my neighbor was out. High School teacher. Solid surfer, but just some guy who lies here. I think one of the cool things about SC is how many really fucking good surfers are living and surfing here. If you head out into good waves, there will always be rippers around you.

Just looked at winds for tomorrow, Boo,

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Yeah, growing up on these waves you're bound to be pretty good. I know my kids have improved tremendously from their ec roots with so few days of waves. Here you can literally surf every day. May not be epic, but there's a waist high wave somewhere.

When I moved here after college, I had only surfed the EC. Mpstly Maine and Rockaway NY, so I hear ya on lack of consistency.

Not only can you surf here nearly every day, you can shortboard 9 out of 10 days. So true, you really get some time on the board. You can also balance a life, job, relationship, etc and still get into really good surf on a regular basis. On top of that, we have had overhead surf 9 out of 10 days over the last eight weeks, so you can really log some time in decent sized and large surf.

the 23rd was for sure XL out there. The wave actually looked very enticing. Getting out there looked like the bigger challenge and would really requiring good timing.

OTOH I surfed Swift yesterday afternoon and it was an easy jump off the rocks and I was out. Surfed the 6'7" pin tail and that was a ton of fun. A few feet overhead, but ultimately kind of soft and easy for out there. I mean, it was still hollow, but not a hard take off at all. Gonna give it another try in a few hours and then I'm up to the snow for a week.

Yawn

that swell looked pretty wild..... ot I've only seen some mavericks footage, but it looked big. an donly a few tow guys out.

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Originally Posted by subtle plague

that swell looked pretty wild..... ot I've only seen some mavericks footage, but it looked big. an donly a few tow guys out.

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This popped into my feed

https://youtu.be/Ro2K_bKAOLc?si=7W05jkQEUrtM3lho

I saw that drone out there for a bit. Or some drone. I keep looking for pics of that session as there were at least to pro photogs set up on the cliffs.

And welcome back fishboy. We've been missing you around here. Can you please grab and repost some pics from the internet to share you imaginary travels with us? How's your mom these days? Charging rent yet?


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Life is good ott... been crazy as normal. Finally got back 2 novembers ago to visit family after 3 years 8 months traveling nonstop... last 2 years super crazy cool, hiked 5 different caminos in spain... crusin around italy and a lot of time in the mountains around Cortina. Croatia. Bosnia, montenegro. Albania. Then came back this way n spent 5 months at the beachhouse in pavones then hiked the Appalation trail sobo. Life is good.

Well man, so glad you privilege has led you to travels. Maybe some day it we lead to positivity. Best of luck with that. You may like this story, as it was not knee to waist high.


Paddled out at Scotts this mornin after spending ht last week in the mountains. It was big. 12.5'@15s from 280^. The channel looked huge and the paddle out easy. The surf variable but clean. Some lined up very nice. Lots of surf, ranging from OH to DOH plus. Some legit 15 footers rolling through, so I grabbed the 7'6" mini gun. As I got to the beach, I realized some of the bigger/wider ones were closing the channel. Oh. Walked back onto the reef and waited for a lull. Basically you just walk in as the water recedes meters and then jump over an inside wall of whitewater, and then paddle fast, out and left toward the channel.

I made the first section out and avoided the shore pound at the river. The water here is uneven and moving in every direction, but you just dig in and get as much momentum as possible. The current is south, into huge beach break. The reef is north. As I was nearing the outer channel, a big wide set moved through. The wave loomed and the the lip pitched. Being in the depths of the channel, only the top four feet broke and the wave flatten backed out. I paddled up the dying face. Its hard to get underneath when the wave face is so sloped. But I did, and could just barely feel the pull of the wave across my back. Just barely. Broke through and I was out. But that meant the wave was at least 200 hundred yards away and the peak another hundred beyond that. I settled in for the long paddle.

It took some time and effort and I was out. A few friends in the water. We chatted and waited for a set. I just watched the first set come through to see how it was breaking. First set was DOH. They looked wide, but usually would settle back and stay open from deep. Cool. I paddled deep. Next set was a bit smaller, so I paddled a bit inside. Third set was bigger. 15'. I was inside. I paddled out over a few but one eventually clipped me. I tried to sneak under the lip, but the turbulence grabbed my board and I ditched it. Swirled, tumbled and I reached for my leash. I must have know, because as soon as I did that, it snapped off at the ankle cuff.

I was close tot he surface, and found my way up quick enough. Another wave passed through, but I don't think it broke. I saw a buddy nearby and said something about swimming in because my leash broke and he pointed, " you board is right there!" Ten feet or so away, deck up. I sprinted, got on and paddled out. I realized that my session was over and how damn lucky I was to recover my board. We are way out at sea at this break. A place where ten foot waves just do not break, but pass through like swells. It is way way out there. I looked out to sea, saw no big sets and started to work my way in. I was actually hoping to get far enough in where the ten footers were breaking, thinking I would catch an easier smaller wave to get me near shore. And that almost did happen. I was close to one, but should have raced down the line instead of getting right under it. I let it pass.

Then I saw some bigger ones looming. My mistake was paddling back out and down the line. I should have just sprinted in. The first few were not so big, nor so wide, even enough so I though I might line one of these up. Then I was racing one down the line, having to duck under the breaking lip at the last second, and even that one took me, swirled me and ripped my board from my hands. I was thinking, at least I am way more inside for this swim as I surfaced to find my board within arms reach. I grabbed it, and then saw the real set. It was big and dark and not terribly wide, but we all were way inside of it. Some broke for the shoulder. Others sat still, prepping to ditch their board. I sprinted in, trying to make it clear for anyone nearby that I was planning on taking this thing on the back.

It had already broken some time ago. I was trying to drive deeper but there were two people in my way. Being deeper, more energy will have dissipated. I did not want to be anywhere near where it was breaking. And then it caught up to me. ten feet of white water. I grabbed the rails and it hit, picked me up, surrounded me with froth - I held my breath getting ready to get wreaked. And then it grabbed me and tossed me up into the air, in front of the violence, I held on tight, blinded by foam I could tell I was in the air and took a deep breath. Somehow I landed this on my belly and skated well ahead of the breaker; by the time it caught up the violence had lessened but the ride remained wild and triumph was still over a 100 yards away. I bounced and raced toward shore, finally dismounting in a few feet of water, I ran up the reef. I felt so so lucky.

Another board, or half a board, was sitting on an exposed part of the reef. I secured my board on the cliff, and picked that piece up to get it to a safe spot. Who ever owned that was not as lucky. Heavy water is fun.

jesus christ. I was scared just reading that. I Get scared at anything bigger than 5@14+ seconds.....or 3m faces these days.
I would have drowned out there. And just for clarification for this kook: Is 10-12 or 15 foot not usually in the tripple or tripple OH+ range?
edit: and i've always wondered about the nature of the king fish... :D

That was quite a session @Ottime, glad it all worked out. I've thankfully never had a leash go on a reef several hundred yards off the beach, I've always had them go on hollow beach break close to the beach.

Back in Britannia many centuries ago it is said that when a son reached puberty the father would take the son out for a walk and tour the edge of the family's property. Upon reaching the furthest point of the land, the father would beat the shit out of the son. This traumatic experience would forever imprint on the son where the family land's ended so there would never be any confusion about it from generation to generation.

A couple of weeks ago I got cleaned up by a set on a big day doing exactly what you did, cheating in on a couple smaller ones and then paying the price. After I got washed through the inside and finally made it back to the lineup a friend told me that story and finished it up with, "I think the ocean just showed you where the property line is."

I like that property line.

When I use feet for surf height it generally means the wall, or face height, of the wave. Unless I denote a period, and then that is a buoy reading.

Theoretically, with a buoy reading of 12.5'@15s you'd get surf at 18.75 feet (12.5x1.5) at an average exposed break. A lot more comes into play with bathymetry, shoreline, etc. it can break bigger or smaller.

I was always sitting or on my belly. So exact heights, I'm not sure of. I don't think it was TOH out, but maybe those bigger ones were.

We were chatting when a solid wave came through and slipped underneath us. Had we been paddling for it, it would have been an easy grab into a rather large pit that lined up fast. I know for sure that wave was well OH, but hard to say otherwise. Maybe it was DOH plus, cause it obviously really stood up. But no way of knowing from the back. Based on where that thing broke, if it were DOH, then for sure the big ones were TOH where they were breaking.

I don't go out into huge stuff anymore and I was never pushing boundaries of any kind. But once the sure is hitting DOH on the sets at a break that is heavy, it is just big. I think how clean and ordered the surf it what really sets days apart.


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Originally Posted by PeachesNCream

Thanks again for the board advice y’all. I actually ended up pulling the trigger on that 7’8 Stewart that CCS had posted. Seems like a pretty sweet board. I took it out this morning and it kicked my ass. Wasn’t a great day, but I didn’t catch a single wave and got a hell of a shoulder workout. Also just felt completely different being on a hard board and sitting that deep in the water, confidence took a hit. I’ll definitely be spending lots of time on the “foamy longboard” still.

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Took the 7’8 “egg” again today. Felt better than the first time. Still didn’t stand up on wave, but at least I caught one and felt better paddling around.

I just bought this board, but wondering if a longboard is a better fit, or at least a beneficial addition. My foamy is water logged and Tourmaline is where I spend most of my time and everyone seems to be in longboards. Also seems like surfboards don’t decrease in value all that fast so it doesn’t seem to be a sunk cost


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I started surfing at 13 surfing in southern Maine. owned a longboard by the time I was 16. While I'm not a long board per se, I still own that same longboard. It's a 1963 Rick, classic big wave long board. If I had the money and space I would own two more. One would be a new, but classic 50/50 rail nose rider and the third would be one of those better soft tops (hard bottom) board.

Point being - longboards are a great part of any quiver. We willhave small days and the only place breaking will be a longboard wave and that is still a ton of fun.

Don't break the bank, but keep an eye out for a long board. Not sure how a foamy gets water logged, but if that does happen, I assume it is done. And heavy.

Keep getting out on your egg. You may want to find a different wave. But every single minute you spend on that thing - paddling, standing, even carrying it down to the water - will vastly improve your surfing. Keep at it. Get stronger. And it will all come into view. Ideally 3-5 days a week.

And even a 20 minute session is better than not surfing at all. Especially while you are new and still learning a lot every time out.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ottime

I started surfing at 13 surfing in southern Maine. owned a longboard by the time I was 16. While I'm not a long board per se, I still own that same longboard. It's a 1963 Rick, classic big wave long board. If I had the money and space I would own two more. One would be a new, but classic 50/50 rail nose rider and the third would be one of those better soft tops (hard bottom) board.

Point being - longboards are a great part of any quiver. We willhave small days and the only place breaking will be a longboard wave and that is still a ton of fun.

Don't break the bank, but keep an eye out for a long board. Not sure how a foamy gets water logged, but if that does happen, I assume it is done. And heavy.

Keep getting out on your egg. You may want to find a different wave. But every single minute you spend on that thing - paddling, standing, even carrying it down to the water - will vastly improve your surfing. Keep at it. Get stronger. And it will all come into view. Ideally 3-5 days a week.

And even a 20 minute session is better than not surfing at all. Especially while you are new and still learning a lot every time out.


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Yeah, I think a longboard could be nice in addition to the egg and thanks for the encouragement. I’ll keep at it. New wetsuit should come in today so that should make the mornings more enjoyable and easier to get out more. Any suggestions on a wave? Earlier this week the wind pushed me down from tourmo to PB and PB was just close out city.

My foamy is getting water logged because the plastic on the bottom of the board has started to separate from the fin box. There’s a gap there and the back end of the board is significantly heavier when I get out of the water vs when I was gone for two weeks. I’ve tried to fix it once with epoxy but didn’t quite get it, I’ll try again once it dries out enough.


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There are a lot of different variables at play when looking at waves. If you're dead set on only surfing Tourmaline then a longboard is your best option since that's about the mellowest/softest wave in San Diego county. Old Mans up at San Onofre is even more forgiving for beginners but that's an hour away. La Jolla Shores and the San Elijo area up in Cardiff are also relatively mellow but not as much as Tourmaline.

The waves get steeper the further south you go from Tourmaline. Your new board will work well at the pumphouse, which is the next set of peaks south of the tourmaline parking lot. It's still generally pretty mellow but steeper than Tourmaline. Lots of variables will determine the quality of those waves. PB doesn't handle long period swells very well, it's best on mid period and can be quite fun on big wind swell (short period) days. Tide is also important, it's going to close out more on low tides and less so on higher tides. When you add in the conditions of the sand bars and the wind you're suddenly performing multi-variable calculus to determine whether it'll be good or not.

Just keep paddling the new board and get mileage on it. It's not a linear progression, it'll happen gradually and some days you'll feel like you're not progressing, others you'll feel like you're really coming along. The only better way to improve your surfing is going surfing.

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Originally Posted by CascadeCrudSkier

There are a lot of different variables at play when looking at waves. If you're dead set on only surfing Tourmaline then a longboard is your best option since that's about the mellowest/softest wave in San Diego county. Old Mans up at San Onofre is even more forgiving for beginners but that's an hour away. La Jolla Shores and the San Elijo area up in Cardiff are also relatively mellow but not as much as Tourmaline.

The waves get steeper the further south you go from Tourmaline. Your new board will work well at the pumphouse, which is the next set of peaks south of the tourmaline parking lot. It's still generally pretty mellow but steeper than Tourmaline. Lots of variables will determine the quality of those waves. PB doesn't handle long period swells very well, it's best on mid period and can be quite fun on big wind swell (short period) days. Tide is also important, it's going to close out more on low tides and less so on higher tides. When you add in the conditions of the sand bars and the wind you're suddenly performing multi-variable calculus to determine whether it'll be good or not.

Just keep paddling the new board and get mileage on it. It's not a linear progression, it'll happen gradually and some days you'll feel like you're not progressing, others you'll feel like you're really coming along. The only better way to improve your surfing is going surfing.

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Surfed pump house a lot last summer. I agree, that’s the sweet spot for that board. I was there yesterday afternoon, it was low tide and windy but was able to stand up on one, but fell over right away. Progress tho. Then got pushed south with the wind and it was closeouts. I do better at tourmo, my hip flexibility sucks so my pop ups are slow, I could really work on that.

Not dead set on tourmo/pump house, that’s just the easiest during the week. Besides pump house, any other spots you’d recommend for that board? Or is that what you listed?


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Went to pipes this morning and brought the funboard. Didn’t catch much for an hour and a half and then caught one wave in. First real wave on that board. Even with just the one wave I could feel how turny and fun that board will be. Stoooooooked


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True on some days being better than others. That never ends. I've got 39 years of surfing under my belt and some days everything clicks and others I can struggle to get a decent wave. That's kind of what makes it so awesome.

The offshores have been strong. Same as those winds down south. This morning was especially strong with white caps just off shore. Went north to look at Old Man's and was considering it. The left was going pretty nicely from time to time. The paddle out looked like work. And then a buddy showed up on the cliff. I said hello and he asked me if I heard or was told by Aloe... I had no idea.

A group was surfing the south side of the reef. It's pretty tucked in and nearshore. Seals were acting kind of nutty. About thirty yard outside a shark burst the surface and snatched a juvenile seal and snapped it in two. Blood exploded everywhere. Then went in and one of them alerted others who were out at Old Man's. About three stayed out at Old Man's. It's sort of far away, but not really.

As we were chatting, about 100 yards outside of the south end the water began to churn. I thought I might have seen a fun race across the water just before but can't be sure. Others saw the shark break surface several times. And redness. I mostly just saw white, splashing foam well outside of any boil. And then a round slick. The bits were in it instantly.

Watched for a bit more and decided to surf somewhere else this morning. They ended up being Scott's. OH. Clean. The winds were blowing directly off here. Some fun ones for sure but I got a killer wave toward the end. Dying 11 second period swell is what I was mostly surfing but a fresh long period about 4.5@18 was showing up. That good wave was for sure this new swell. OH and roped all the way into the inside. Then the tide dropped and it never showed quite like that again.

Looks like another decent week.


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Originally Posted by Ottime

I like that property line.

When I use feet for surf height it generally means the wall, or face height, of the wave. Unless I denote a period, and then that is a buoy reading.

Theoretically, with a buoy reading of 12.5'@15s you'd get surf at 18.75 feet (12.5x1.5) at an average exposed break. A lot more comes into play with bathymetry, shoreline, etc. it can break bigger or smaller.

I was always sitting or on my belly. So exact heights, I'm not sure of. I don't think it was TOH out, but maybe those bigger ones were.

We were chatting when a solid wave came through and slipped underneath us. Had we been paddling for it, it would have been an easy grab into a rather large pit that lined up fast. I know for sure that wave was well OH, but hard to say otherwise. Maybe it was DOH plus, cause it obviously really stood up. But no way of knowing from the back. Based on where that thing broke, if it were DOH, then for sure the big ones were TOH where they were breaking.

I don't go out into huge stuff anymore and I was never pushing boundaries of any kind. But once the sure is hitting DOH on the sets at a break that is heavy, it is just big. I think how clean and ordered the surf it what really sets days apart.


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Thanks for your clarification. I got used to being on high alert in Indo when the swell was supposed to reach 6 foot+ because that meant it was going into the DOH range. And I knew to only watch any 10 foot swell at the warung at the exposed breaks because it was fucking massive. :)

I never had any of that here in Europe but last year's 8.5 @14 at the protected gnarly rivermouth translated to 5@16 Indo ( solid 3m faces) to me. Breaking in head high water I was fucking terrified because I had not seen such power in years. ( Head high this year broke in chest high water).

The exposed reef breaks like bloody foreland must have been Easily DOH+ last year+

Our months long run of surf and favorable winds has come to an end. This weekend still has some options if you are willing to explore, but dribbles compared to previous. Going flat next week. Pre forecast.

Yesterday the NW kicked in early, so I turned back toward protected breaks. Parked at 3 Mile and hiked out. No one in the water. No one on the cliff. Saw at least something to ride so suited up.

I got 5 or 6 waves in my first 30 minutes. First four were great. Head high. A little plus. Sort of lined up. On the softer side but nice long wrapping waves.

After my first wave I was wondering where everyone was. Then after my second som dude paddled out. Then another. It was the three of us for a while and I was just lapping the point. So much fun.

More people showed up around wave 8, which was actually OH and not as soft. Tide was dropping and wind was coming up. Got another 6 or 7 waves and called it quits. Such a fun session and a bunch of waves in about 90 minutes.

Nice finish to our run. Kind of fun to surf some softer waves and not at all worry about the drop or falling behind.

Now it's time for some snow to fall. Or MTB.


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After such a slow summer and autumn this winter has been awesome. I normally run every day I can't surf and I haven't run since Christmas day. It does look like it's wrapping up for a bit with rain forecast in SD tonight and next week looks pretty flat.

Yesterday I had low expectations for a waist high forecast at San Diego's best beachbreak but I was in the water around 6am to maximize my time before work. As I was ready to paddle out I noticed a big orange light to the north. It seemed too bright to be a training flare from the Marines over Camp Pendleton but it seemed out of place to be an aircraft. It was still about 10 minutes before first light so it was almost completely dark. After a couple duck dives I was out and looked up in the sky to see what seemed to be a massive comet streaking across the sky. It took me a few seconds to realize it must be a Space X launch out of Vandenberg AFB. I missed my first opportunities for waves as I was treated to quite a light show for the next 10 minutes. I did miss the separation of the rocket going for my first wave but caught the 2 objects shortly afterwards. The rest of the session turned out to be great with a punchy chest high set rolling through every 5 minutes and there was almost nobody out until 7am. It does seem to be that the best days are the ones where there's no hype and expectations but the conditions work out and everything comes together.

I tried to attach a photo of the launch but the attachment GUI is all weird now so who knows what'll show up.

That's wild.

Some of my favorite sessions are because of something besides the waves. Tho unexpectedly bigger than forecast and uncrowded is always nice.


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Found some small surf today. A combo of 2.3@13 NW and 1@17 from 180 worked on the high tide at Old Mans quite nicely. Knee to waist high (lol) with plenty of shoulder high sets and even a few reaching for head high. Lined up nicely and throwing over. Even found some nice cover ups. Rain and south winds come tomorrow. Gonna try to get one day again next week.


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I've been out of town all week but it looks like I haven't missed anything, it was only about knee high today and looks the same until maybe next week. Time to break out the big board and really lower expectations for a while.

This week (not counting last weekend or Monday) has been surprisingly good. It's been shoulder high and fairly clean each morning, a bit walled at times but much better than the forecast has been advertising.

Ditto

Surfed this morning. Wasn't sure what to expect. Got a mix of more than knee to waist. About chest high, even a few getting nose high. Plenty of fun and my 7'6" egg never left the beach. The fish was flying. Hope to get in a few more days this week. Windows are slim.


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This weekend we got a chest high south swell that ended up being very fun. Saturday there was a bunch of wind swell that required patience for the right combination to squeak through but yesterday was clean and super fun. Minimal crowd too. It all comes to an end tomorrow night, it looks stormy and very wet the rest of the week. I did some mental exercises to justify getting in the water after a quarter inch of rain fell last Friday but it'll be hard to do so this week when we get 3 days of heavy stuff and everything will get washed into the ocean.

Wednesday was pretty solid fun up here. Head high sets with a touch of juices. Barrels on the submerged reef point. Then at noon the south wind kicked up and we are done till next week. Off to the snow.

I've got to remind myself that I don't need a 6' long period swell to go surf. Hell, don't need 4 feet. Don't need long period. Just need to go to the right spots and have fun.


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^^^That you wks? Very nice, love that wave.