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ive heard the main reason for glue in binding holes is for lubrication of the screw upon installationQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
water sealing is mainly provided by the screw itself, any sealing from the glue is a bonus
ive always used a good quality wood glue with excellent results, ymmv
Functions of glue is to lube screw and provide water seal, absolutelyQuote:
Originally Posted by detuned
Plus the occasional dry hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I would argue that it's both, but yes definitely.Quote:
Originally Posted by detuned
My only gripe with using glue is rusty screws. But when I worked in the shop that's all we used.
2 of my slowest and most careful mounts to date (wtb Solly jig!). The rustlers had to accommodate 313bsl grom and 293 bsl wife. Looks like I ended up with 288-318mm. Phew...
Goats, was just anal to make sure I got right on the line, splitting the difference between my 318mm and 313mm shells... So on the line at 316.5mm. wardens were my first and only Solly binding until yesterday. Now I have to buy one of them damn dedicated pozi screwdrivers. Shoulda fuckin loaded up on wardens when they were $129.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1ffaa72627.jpg
Able to mount the xenics with my jigarex using the vipec/tecton plates. Heel track is the same and front 2 holes on the toe are the same width. Had to move the jig back 15mm for the front 2 holes to be in place for the boot center to be at suggested. Screwed in the front 2 screws with the toe piece and punched and drilled the rear toe holes. Things are pretty light. Have drilled into a metal top sheet/torsion box/binding mount reinforcement for ages. I can feel why. Once the screws go threw the metal it feels like air in there. A bit unnerving from what im used to screwing into.Attachment 315937Attachment 315938
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4Frnt Hojis mounted on the line with shifts
Attachment 316385
^^ I've followed this and have had good success. Typically drill with 3.6 then tap.Quote:
Originally Posted by RockinB
Also have been able to remove epoxy screws without the need for any heat.
Wondering if anyone else has had this issue or found a solution. When setting up iso 9523 touring soles in a MNC binding (technically compatible) I have been using the old piece of paper trick to set the correct toe height/ toe pressure. I get the pressure right on the bench, but then when I go to ski there is excessive up and down play between the toe peice and friction plate. I end up cranking the toes down until there is minimal play, but later when they are back on the bench there seems to be way too much toe pressure. I have consistently had this issue with Dalbello (Lupo soles) and Scarpa (Vibram rally sole) in Atomic, Salomon, Tyrolia, and Marker MNC bindings.
Is there a value for how much force should be on the toe? I don't want to buy the technical publication for 138 bucks from ANSI [forum wont let me post link] but am wondering if anyone has found a torque value for the toe pressure screw in various bindings or any other method to achieve the correct pressure.
Have you tried putting the lean lock mechanism in downhill mode and pulling hard backwards on the back of the boot cuff top before you do the paper test?Quote:
Originally Posted by md46d0
This. Pull the toe of your boot up to make sure it's seated against the top of the binding and then set the afd height. Took me a couple tries to figure this out on shifts.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeezerSteve
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I often use a big screwdriver to pry between boot sole & ski or AFD to accomplish the same thing
I just got some new Pivot 14s and noticed that on one heel piece there is a piece of plastic backing one of the mounting screws that is cracked. Are these safe to mount and use still?
Attachment 316690
You're going to die, better send them to me for appropriate disposal.
Happens all the time, doesn't matter.
The plastic was broken on my Pivots, extending to a screw hole. (Poor packing for shipment.) I had no problem having them replaced.
Found a nice 300 page research article on touring boots. Long story short the rubber sole has more friction and block tread has less contact area with the paper which prematurely stresses the paper and creates extra resistance when doing the pull out test.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeezerSteve
Simple solution: use two pieces of paper and pull out the "sandwhiched" strip. I'll get them torque tested this weekend and see how this method holds up!
and when boot sole & AFD ^^ gets wet with snow & water the amount of friction is different again
I am mounting my own fucking skis, as I usually do.
3rd mount with inserts, low on real estate.
I put the Outlaw right over the vipec holes, and 2 seemed to match perfectly. Screwed it in, easy peasy.
That makes life easy- I use the binding as a jig for the other foru, good to go.
Except........ I printed a couple templates. The Outlaw spacing is actually 1.9mm wider. I know that, like any binding, the Outlaw screw holes accept screws that are a little bigger than the 5 mm machine screws.
The screws went in easy. Anybody do anything like this before? Anybody think this will fuck with the plastic on the Oulaw?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1f6c1c2203.jpg
New boots have a 315 bsl, old have a 313bsl, should I adjust the forward pressure to get it perfect or is this close enough?
The indicator on fks's is fairly useless. You are likely within range still but do a search for how to adjust pivot fwd pressure on here or google to check.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyg82
Edit: here ya go. Probably more than you want to know lol.
P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=308131
That thread takes some time to digest but you should be in pretty good shape by the time you finish it and play with your pivots a bit. I definitely wouldn’t go by the indicator and wouldn’t assume that new boots (or old boots, for that matter) have proper fwd pressure
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My wife's new Moment Bella's, she is lovin them.Attachment 318052
Here's the set-up to redrill skis that have a 50% overlap will the new holes and the existing ones. Using QK/BF inserts means that the new insert will encapsulate the old hole. Old holes wooden plugged/epoxied and fully cured and then a use a short 6.5mm end mill in a collett (ie very rigid so no deflection/run-off) to plunge cut the new hole. I only needed to do this on one pair of holes but if I'd offset the whole mount (Guardian) to give the required clearance then another two pairs of holes would have been in conflict.
I realise that not everyone has a mill or has access to one but it can be done.
Attachment 318054
If STH bindings were mounted on the line and I reuse some of the holes for a warden mount, will the warden mount be on the line? Assuming same boot bsl
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If the 1st mount was STH2 and you're reusing the back toe holes, I believe the answer is yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by brundo
^ Yes.
I've done that several times (with and without using inserts in the new holes), with the only difference being the old holes are plugged with aluminum #12AB screws that get cut off flush. Tapping the new holes cuts threads into the threaded aluminum plugs, so the whole thing is super bomber.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
Problem is I found just one box of aluminum #12AB screws in an old hardware store, and haven't been able to find any more, anywhere. Eventually, might have to just use stainless (or brass if I can find it) #12AB or regular ski screws in the old holes, and make the new holes right next to the threaded steel plugs instead of overlapping. It'll also be tougher to cut off steel screws flush without heating them up enough to ruin the expoxy. Hacksaw instead of Dremel.