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Mounted my own fucking skis, craigslist find GPOs with inserts for Tectons at -1. Already got to take them on a hut trip + some resort days and very satisfied. Great all around setup for soft snow.
Attachment 314640
Holes were drilled...very accurately
Attachment 314641
jb weld, with metal repairs it works ok
can't think of a worthy ski fix for the product
the g flex works very well from maintenance to major repairs, would recommend for everything in between
Ha. I did use glue for all screws so hopefully that’ll keep out some water.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
I may try to source some epoxy and FG here tomorrow
Eh, I don't see that much difference between JB and other 2-part epoxies (e.g. Marine Tex) for skis. JB is usually easier for me to find and easy to eyeball the mix (1:1 instead of 1:5 or whatever). I use a finish nail to fill the holes, it works fine.
Would you ever see jb in a real wood shop ?
And btw the eh goes at the the back eh
JB Weld and especially marine Tex are not the same as lower viscosity epoxies. Marine Tex is like a putty(think boat repairs) and JB a gel.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
I've filled plenty of screw holes w/ JB Weld. Guarantee it's a better seal than a glued in plastic plug(I use those too tho). Wet the hole out as best as possible and fill hole. I use the 5 min shit for this so you don't have to wait forever for curing to start. When catalyzation begins and JB still malleable, take a tamper the diameter of your hole and compress into hole. This should fill hole most of the way up. Then just topcoat w/ more JB.
I've never fixed a spinner with JB, but see no reason why a serviceable repair could not be made(although I would encourage doing it proper the 1st time).
Those weren’t mine. The guy was stoked on them tho. The thread about the bindings here on TRG has some stories about breakage, but I thought they’re pretty clever bindings and I’m considering getting some.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ritschi-Tecton
Anyone got advice for mounting pin bindings? I've mounted up a handful of pivots and aaatacks without much trouble. But someone at a shop was telling me about how much trickier pin bindings are—something about how being just a bit misaligned can cause pre-releases. Got me a bit worried, but this thread has been a wealth of info.
I use paper templates and a drill (though it's possible I could get access to a drill press if I have to). Looking to mount up a pair of dynafit rotations.
Drill press wont make a difference... what will is making sure your holes are very accurately located... so take your time with your centre punch and make sure your template is aligned straight and you'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by wakefield
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I have been skiing them for two seasons now and like them a lot. Lighter than shifts or kingpins and I have never had a pre release at my "chart" DIN. I ski them in bounds a bunch and forget they aren't an alpine binding.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
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Eh. Getting the toe and heel aligned is maybe a bit more important than it is with an alpine binding, but it's still not rocket surgery. You'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by wakefield
If you want to be really careful about alignment (depending on the binding you're mounting), mount the toe, then click the boot into it, slide the heel piece pins into the boot from behind, and set the heel piece down on the ski. Use that to check the hole locations. Works better with some bindings than others, depending how much the heel piece covers the screws.
What works for me (including race bindings with no heel adjustment) is to carefully mount the toe with the template, click the boot in, line up the heel in the boot and make sure it's aligned properly and the heel gap looks right. Mark the holes, drill and screw one hole, click the boot in and make sure it's still good. Take out the boot and drill the rest.
You can also start the other way - mount the heel first, then use the boot and binding to line up the toe.
Lol, that's how I do it, except I use a collet instead of a chuck. It's also handy to use a 1/4" end mill if you're doing inserts in holes that were originally done with a jig, so you end up with a square pattern that's centered on the ski (assuming the jig holes aren't too far off and are within the 1/4").Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
Lemmie know if you want my measurements/coordinates for Salomon & Fritschi, the popular templates tend to round to the nearest mm. Which is fine for wood screws, but can be noticeable if using inserts.
Just picked up some J Skis metals at their warehouse sale. Does anyone know what the mounts are? Looks like Telemark but I'm not totally surehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...81cef2b0fd.jpg
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13 holes, I think that's what the Meidjo has. Which yes, is tele. Looks like it could be that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teenaged
So 13 holes for a single mount? Damn I thought it was a weird 1.5x mount situation. Thanks for the infoQuote:
Originally Posted by Wawawa
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Yeah, it's pretty over the top. Some modern tele bindings have 11 holes, and some have 8, but Meidjos take the cake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teenaged
You can use a template or not but first figure out where fore/aft to mount the heel and put it at dead center, then mount the toe dead center by ONE screw only, allow the toe to VERY slightly rotate around that 1 screw, mark/drill all the rest of the toe piece screws with the boot locked into ski mode and everything should line up perfectlyQuote:
Originally Posted by wakefield
this will ^^ work for any frame type AT binding where you mount the heel and toe independently but they need to lineup/mesh perfectly
@xxx -er's advice is the way to go (heel first, one toe screw at a time), irrespective of whether or not you use a template.
For toe holes #2-4, I've taken to using a larger drill bit (as close to a perfect fit in the toe piece holes) to "centerpunch" the holes. I drill very carefully - just enough to create a dimple.
For inserts, I've taken to screwing in the binding while the epoxy is setting (remove afterwards for inspection and Vibra-tite). It helps straighten any minor tilting during insertion.
I was always concerned that some epoxy would seep into the threads (overflow), but with care, this won't happen.
Even if you use a tap guide, you can still tilt the inserts a bit when installing them. I use the double lock nut on a screw technique to install them, even though I use BF inserts with the screw slot. It helps minimize tilt in comparison with starting the insert off with the BF tool or straight-bladed screwdriver.
I finish off with a screwdriver (blade ground "fat" to widen it for a good fit) to get the insert 1/3 to 1/2 turn below the top sheet level.
Then ... there's the end mill approach if you own one ;-)
... Thom
Anything special about what fiberglass cloth you get? I was just going to get the stuff home depot carries: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo...0128/202077813Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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yup that stuff is fine ^^ I just cut it into 1/2 inch lengths wet it out with epoxy and cram it in the screw hole
i also used some to back up the crack in a thule box and probably some other things i don't remmeber
Hmm, sounds handy. Appreciate itQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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I just ordered a replacement heel for a Dynafit TLT Speed Radical binding that I just broke. I don’t know much about mounting bindings. Anything should know about mounting the replacement heel using the same holes? Use wood glue? Thanks in advance. Attachment 315421
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The screws might be stuck so before you strip the head use use a soldering iron on the head for 10-20 sec to loosen up the screw,
if you don't have a soldering iron turn a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed to heat up the screw
I would just use the same holes with slow set epoxy
if any of them strip use the FG and epoxy as per above ^^
Thanks! That sounds pretty simple. I don't want to invest any more than I have to for this setup since I bought it used but I'd like to ski this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er