Attachment 327290
Thanks for the input. This is how I ended up doing it. I have the loop around a buckle, and the clip will attach to that.
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Attachment 327290
Thanks for the input. This is how I ended up doing it. I have the loop around a buckle, and the clip will attach to that.
Were you able to get that leash on with the binding already mounted?
I didn't try. I think it's doable, but it might be tough.
Worst case I just put a little piece of chord in there.
I was able to put on a leash after mounting my alpinists but it was a royal PITA and I'm not gonna make that mistake again!Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeze
It's an extra hole in your ski, but there's always the option of installing a cable clamp. I'll snap a photo later today.
[edit]
Here's a pair of Nanuqs I drilled for two binding locations (Vipecs with inserts), with an extra hole for the cable clamp. At the time I did this, I was unaware of the cable loop available for Vipecs (slips under either of the two front screws), but you get the point ...
Disadvantage - an extra hole in your ski (if you can't re-purpose a hole).Advantage - no stress on a possibly weak point of the binding?[/edit]
http://galibierdesign.com/images/oth...l_nanuq-02.jpg
... Thom
im sure it's been covered but what leashes to get
ATK/Black Diamond leases are the best going for traditional style leashes IMO, they have a break away feature. Some like the B & D ski gear leashes but they are kinda long.
The length is part of what makes them great IMO. You can remove your skis without taking leashes off. That has already saved me from chasing a ski once. They stay out of the way otherwise due to being coiled, but they obviously aren't as sleek as typical leashes and have a bit of a "made in the garage" look. They kind of remind me of Gravity Dropper MTB posts. They look rough around the edges but are well thought out and work great. For me at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
I have some unused ones that came with my Salomon MTN bindings if interested. $10?Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
Yup this ^^ long yes but cuz of the coily bit they stay out of the way, the idea as i understand it is the ski can get away from you and lose energy as it does so, I never actuly tried that part but it makes senseQuote:
Originally Posted by 3PinGrin
In use one can hook em up at the car and unhook em at the car end of day, leave them attached while dealing with skins, while eating lunch whatever, you can even walk with a ski in each hand over a rock band
I used the BnD for a season and they worked fine, having said that I like brakes better so I put the brakes back on my Verticals even tho they are kind of a shitty brake
I'm a fan of longer leashes to prevent bonehead moves on my part from resulting in a lost ski when trying to click into a ski in a sketchy position. My strategy is to always be leashed except for when the skis are on my pack. In these situations, I clip the leashes on before removing the skis from my pack - at least in questionable terrain.
One thing I've found about the B&D leashes, is when it's cold, if you stretch them, they stay somewhat elongated until they warm up at home.
Its not a problem if you wrap them around your boot the way most folks do, but then you lose some length.
After the apocalypse, I'm going to play with the leashes that came with my Plum Guides. They stretch out to about 40", and I'll use the B&D fuses with them.
The Plum leashes come with their own fuse - a small loop of nylon cord (1mm). It has a lap joint which looks as if they heat welded the nylon together. If you blow the fuse, you'll either have to roll your own or buy some from skimo (either B&D or Maurelli fuses).
I can't figure out the ATK leashes that came with my Helios. If theyre fused, then it's the main, coily part which means it's destroyed a leash (at $33/pair), and you're also without a leash for the rest of the tour/trip. I ain't testing mine to find out where they break (saving them for resale, on the off chance I sell the binders ... yeah, right).
With the Plums, and B&Ds, when you blow the fuse, you still have a usable leash.
Post #53 shows my B&D leashes when they're not stretched out (OCD material follows. Don't say I didn't warn you):
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/....php?p=5940350
... Thom
yeah I used to loop them around my ankle
a really good thing is you can't lose the ski, was on top of a summit where you do not want to drop a ski so I ripped skins and thru that ski down in haphazard manner .
which absolutely freaked the guide out
Yeah, in that link in my post above, I describe that scenario, and why I transitioned to attaching my leash to my boot, and clipping to the toe piece instead of clipping to my boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
... Thom
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Anybody use the Alpinist brakes? Do they suck? I know they have a pull tab string that breaks easily...any other insight?
Also, can I buy a brakeless version (https://www.snowinn.com/ski-store/ma...778&country=us) and then buy the brake after-market, or would I be missing some critical piece. ETA: Comments in the skimo.com listing suggest I could do that... https://skimo.co/marker-brakes
I'm thinking about getting the 115mm for my Protests (128 underfoot). Can the brake be bent enough to accommodate that ski (+13mm)?
Getting the LT with brakes gives you 30mm of BSL adjustability vs. 15mm on the standard ones. I’d imagine the weight difference is negligible.
The brakes are a little finicky and the arms are a little more flimsy that others, but after a few dozen days they are issue free and haven’t gone far during a release or two. One main benefit they have are clicking in on slick surfaces - the skis don’t slide around like they would with leashes.
meter-man, I've PM'd you.Quote:
Originally Posted by meter-man
IIRC, the brake widths are reasonably generous and they have two bends per lever so tweaking them wider is easy enough. I widened some 90mm brakes the other day to fit a 102mm ski and it only took a nudge with a vice'n'pipe. Should be easy to tweak the 115mm brakes for a 128mm ski. I'll measure the 115mm brakes in the morning and let you know how they size.
Factory 115mm Alpinist brake on a Whitedot Ragnarok ASYM ski which are 122mm underfoot. Will only need a little tweak to clear a 128mm ski.
Attachment 328989
I agree with all of this. They're a little weak, but I still like them a lot more than leashes.Quote:
Originally Posted by EricB
Thanks for the feedback and photos people!
Buying a pair from Spyderjon...with brakes. :)
I have leashes on another pair of Alpinists but brakes seem to make more sense on a powder ski....my reasoning is suspect, so I will test and report back. Next winter. Sigh...
Looks like the Black Diamond 350 has been released and it appears to be a mix between the ATK Crest 10 and the ATK R12. It has the R12 rear but with a crest toe piece... so it's basically an ATK Crest 12. Obviously it also has BD branding. Unsure about compatibility with the new-style freeride spacer, but if it's an R12 rear then it should be fully compatible.
It hasn't been posted on the BD website yet, but Moment already has some they're selling:
https://www.momentskis.com/products/...mond-helio-350
that looks sweet.
really does. neutral colorway too. we will have to thank whoever is paying $700 RETAIL for this product for subsidizing bringing atk to the US. holy shit that's spendy
^thats a lot of drill and fills
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That price is getting into mountain biking territory... Ridiculous.Quote:
Originally Posted by sruffian
Pretty nutty indeed. Quite the premium being paid for US warranty support.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
It's like high shipping insurance rates. If you ship a lot, you get to the point where you self insure (skip paying outrageous premiums) and take your chances.
Same thing with these binders - buy ATKs from Yurp for much less, and take your chances.
... Thom
just buy the 180s you damn dentists :fm:
My left knee is a big fan of having a lower lateral RV than vertical.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
Don't get XXX-er started on this topic ;-)
... Thom
yeah but with all the money you save on the bindings you can afford a second set of knees! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
This seems like an odd choice. If they brought the R12 or better the FR14 for $700 it would’ve borderline ok. But the R12 heel doesn’t offer much over the Crest heel other than 2 extra release points. So this is just at crest at $700. Which is pretty nuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by macon
IME if you tell kids not to stik beans up their nose they will
so I'm not saying anything
I think it's more about the $700 than choice of toe. ATK has always mix and matched.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
Maybe Black Diamond's engineers didn't like the snow clearing toe of the R12 and R14. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt on this one.
I like the two extra riser (not "release") positions, and if that becomes more important to my right ankle's limited dorsiflection, then it will be an R12 purchase from Yurp.
In the next few days, I'll update the the first post of the ATK thread with the details of this binder version.
... Thom
Well it’s more about the crest being a 419 euro binding and the r12 a 555 euro binding. Given exchange rate and an extra margin in the loop $700 is not unreasonable for an r12. It is for a crestish binding.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
Good point (as long as an RV of 10 for a Crest/RT 10 works for folks).Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
Springtime pricing was stuck in my head - especially last Spring's COVID deals. I lost track of typical in-season prices.
Also, along the lines of the Crest 10, don't forget the RT 10 which has a toe clamping force adjustment for touring mode (adjust for tech fitting wear).
It's a straight-forward device (its name implies otherwise - "Uphill Hardness Variator") and doesn't add complexity. OK, I confess - any extra part adds complexity, but it is a simple design, with a rotating, asymmetric cam/stop to set the tension.
I wonder if it's the RT 10 toe that's spec'd for BD's version. The Crest and RT 10 toes are indistinguishable apart from the UHV which is hidden by the toe lever in the picture. Both versions of the toe (Crest 10 and RT 10) have the monolink design.
... Thom
Here's a detail photo of the UHV adjuster on the toe of my RT 10 binder. Turn the screw to adjust which cam lobe the toe lever engages and this in turn increases/decreases clamping force in tour mode.
I'll put this up on the ATK thread as well, as I'm sure there may be questions about UHV. It wasn't clear until I played with one.
https://galibierdesign.com/images/ot...UHV_Detail.jpg
... Thom
110 and 180 have disappeared off the BD site. Wonder how much they're reshuffling their offerings.
Any bindings having updates for coming year? Based on Vipec thinking Xenic Is still a few generations away. Leaves Marker Alpinist and G3 zed as front runners with the Marker having a clear price advantage from perusing online. ATK look nice but that’s dentists money. New skis need bindings
Not new, but Salomon MTNs/Atomic Backlands are also very good bindings at a sensible price imho.
worth keeping an eye out, the 180s were on sale for like $300 on backcountry at the end of last seasonQuote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
I will take a closer look at the Salomon mountain, but have speed turn 2 I could move over and not sure how much the Salomon changes the game from them. Like to leave the turn 2 on skis on now. If they went on new skis would get the bnd top plates as my poles don’t play nice with the dynafits volcano
Saw that sale on the helio 180. I was not ready to spend then. Some folks got a good deal there
Bindings going on 90 waist ski to pair with 108 ski with the speed turn staying on my old sentimental rock skis. Hopefully a five year ski so willing to wait if there’s better tech coming up