Anyone else get some today...?

[QUOTE=PowerWhore7;3686722]Ordered a new board today, 5’ 11” - 2” 5/8th - 21” 1/4 with a 15.5 inch nose and 15 inch round tail (thruster). Any thoughts?
I’m 5’ 7” 160lbs


Personally, I'd throw double wings on that to loosen up the tail. The one time I didn't, I wound up with a plank. Took off easily in small waves, but didn't like to turn. It's a jump if you've never tried or ordered a board with them, and I readily admit that they are not aesthetically pleasing to my eye. They work, though. I guess this is more critical if you're budget is more critical. If you don't care, and can afford to order another board soon, don't sweat it.

Edit: I just looked again at your dimmensions. I am 6'2" and 235, and I could surf your board. Are you sure about that much foam? Can you demo something in that range? If you are nearby, I have a board you are welcome to try.

ughhh, just took my forward knee to the chin and knocked myself silly at "the rock" this morning. Seeing stars I managed back on my board and instead of gathering myself I paniced and I wanted out of the water pronto, not sure of the extent of the stars I was seeing. So instead of paddling out in a decent spot I just road the rather large whitewater in and by the time I came to my senses I took a pingpong ride from rock to rock donating skin along the way. The knee chin thing pulled the shit out of my groin and now I have to crawl up to the toilet since i cant seem to lower myself down to it, which is a problem since my twenty dollar a night mexican motel doesnt exactly have what you would call a nice el banjo. Infact the toilet leaks all over the floor. Its made for a rather "shitty day" south of the boarder.

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Originally Posted by Piggity

I like epoxy for traveling, less dings. I hear the natural flex in epoxy last longer and poly boards will lose their life sooner, less flex/rebound over time.

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agreed. to me, there is no other ride quite like what you get out of a good poly with a standard 4x4oz top and 4oz bottom. nice flex and rebound/pop. only problem for me is they only last me about 6-8 months before they are all done. pop is pretty much gone and the deck all beat to shit from use, not abuse.

my current board uses flexlite 2 epoxy from placebo. ride feel is just like a good poly board, but much more durable thus far. light and floaty as well. gets knocked around more than a poly in choppy/stormy conditions, but luckily i don't have to spend much time riding chop.

i've had this board since last october. should get a good year out of it, maybe 2 if i'm lucky.

i've tried some other epoxy boards as well. i really liked the slx epoxy that walden uses. not too stiff.

man i can't wait to get back in the water. maybe sunday. getting back in great cycling shape tho:rolleyes2

rog

Heal up PHH.

Turns out that 6.5@8 worked for Marina this morning, with chest/shoulder high fun little bowls and no one else out, but me and my buddy. Surfed for 2.5 hours, until the arms were done. Way exceeded expectations. Gonna travel north tomorrow in search of a caine bowl.

Nothing up here yesterday. Anyone finding Emilia any where down south? I head out of town the day before the bomber southy will start to show, so I need to get on what we have. OTOH, things could be going off around the 23rd or so, being in the midsts of a week plus run of swell. If this current storm proceeds as forecasted, we could be seeing some solid swell in these parts. So sad I am going to miss the possibility of G or F at their finest.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Nothing up here yesterday. Anyone finding Emilia any where down south? I head out of town the day before the bomber southy will start to show, so I need to get on what we have. OTOH, things could be going off around the 23rd or so, being in the midsts of a week plus run of swell. If this current storm proceeds as forecasted, we could be seeing some solid swell in these parts. So sad I am going to miss the possibility of G or F at their finest.

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It is definitely hitting down here. I surfed Cottons/Barbedwires yesterday from 430 to 630. It was really fun early, with glassy sets a couple of feet overhead, then the high tide slowed it down. As things slowed down, everyone paddled out, so it got tough to get waves, but the swell is very solid. It is a couple of feet overhead in Newport.

found it this morning. less size here. maybe to shoulder high, but it felt like it was filling in further during my session. watched a few overhead peaks wedge at scotts reef, but the result not quite a wave per se. winds are light up the coast, and I am tempted for a second session. and that nw @10 looks to be on schedule for tomorrow. if this se maxes later, that could be some fun summer waves. oh, and hardly any folks on it this morning.

Hey, SD mags, can you guys post up some pics when this nails your favorite reef? I'd love to see a few from CDLC, or Coast.

North County had waves but I was laid up after I threw out my back for the 2nd time in a week. Fabio is still spinning at 105mph at 9mph but still holding the 285 course. He needs to make his turn north now so we can get some better fetch before he sputters out and maybe screws with our local weather

Fun Newport session on Saturday. The swell had dropped a bit, but it was still slightly overhead on the big sets. Those sets were a bit walled, but the chest and shoulder high sets were fun, with very good shape. The water was around 65-66, so I was fine in a spring suit.

The SE in the swell was making it behave differently than what we normally get. It really focused on the 44-56 zone in Newport, with 56-61 and 71 to the rivermouth being a bit smaller, more like shoulder high, but with nice shape. The zone from around 58 to 71 was smaller, I think it just was not getting the SE energy.

The best waves I actually got were in the 71 zone, after I was sequestered there by blackball. Shoulder high, but with good sandbar peaks.

Overall a really fun day. I will try to get an evening session in tonight. It has dropped a bit, but still looks fun. Given that the shoulder high sets were the best ones, I won't miss the walled head high+ sets.

A couple of good weekends in a row. It finally feels like summer down here.

Hope the rest of you guys are finding peaks with this one. The SE energy is making it a bit hit or miss, I think.

tiny here. might have to break down and buy a log if this continues. haven't owned one in years, but............

nice 40 mile road ride to and along the coast and back. the bikini scene was worth pedaling over for. hmmm, now do i go buck up for that
9'6? desperate times call for desperate measures:)

rog

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Originally Posted by icelanticskier

tiny here. might have to break down and buy a log if this continues. haven't owned one in years, but............

nice 40 mile road ride to and along the coast and back. the bikini scene was worth pedaling over for. hmmm, now do i go buck up for that
9'6? desperate times call for desperate measures:)

rog

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It seems like you've had it pretty good so far.:biggrin: I'm jealous of your sessions per week. I usually get three, but rarely 4-5. Having said that, I probably could get 4-5 if I just went everyday after the office. I am close to surf, which is one of the great things about Orange County. My buddies who work in outside sales (usually software or pharma) really have it great down here, they can often time their days to get favorable winds. Many of those guys surf everyday. Of course, they sometimes have to be in places like Tennessee and Arizona when there is swell, so there are tradeoffs.

I went to UC-Santa Barbara, and during the summer you rarely get south swell energy there. We would go down to Ventura and Malibu after summer school a lot, so we got plenty of sessions in, but south energy rarely gets into Santa Barbara proper. The good thing was, Sands and the DP beachbreaks got plenty of summer windswell, so we probably got 3-4 sessions a week during summer school. Those breaks are biking distance from UCSB, and if you live on DP you can walk to those peaks. Most of those wind swells were in the waist high range, with chest high stuff being a treat, so you had to deal with small, but rideable, surf if you wanted to get your days in. I had a 6'10" funboard in those days, which was absolutely money. It made the thigh high days fun, and kept me in the water and gliding down the line. It was not a long board, so you could surf it like a shortboard. It made a huge difference in my SB surfing, and I wish I still had it. You might want to consider something like that, as it will surf more like a shortboard, but keep you in the water. I sold the board when I left SB, and wish I hadn't.

I would really consider a board like that. It surfed thigh high surf the way a shortboard surfed chest/shoulder stuff, and it was much easier to carry around.

nice thanx^^^^^^^^

ya switching back and forth between short and long was always weird to me and i get so bored so quickly on a long board. that 5'9 rocket kills it in thigh high+ which is why i've been able to ride it as my one board quiver since last october. even overhead does ok set up thruster. just have to hit that 1st bottom turn a bit more patiently/gingerly due to the wide tail in the bigger stuff. man does it go rail to rail nice tho.

i used to have this wonderful g+s egg 7'0". absolute magic. i was about 15, so 25 years ago. i shoulda never sold it. beautiful board. clean lines.

not getting a log, today. gonna mull it over some more. maybe look into what you suggested.

catch a few for me!

rog

Brought the 8'0" and a pair of trunks today to surf 2' perfect little lefts, caught a billion waves and was actually really fun.

Get a log rog. I have both a true log and a 7'6" egg like creature that was left behind at my house. I use the egg a lot, but then again, I don't have a rocket or fish like board. Both my short boards are low volume or very low volume and my step up is very low volume, so I use the egg when it gets small and gutless.

A real log will not bore you. Go find one stashed under a house at places like Drakes Island Beach. Score CL and yard sales for someones classic board. I got my Rick, which turns 50 next year, for $25 from someone who found, stashed in the crawl space, when they bought their beach cottage. The thing is so hard to ride that it is always fun. Almost no rocker, and a huuuudge tail concave makes things interesting. And at 9'3" and about 30#, it takes some muscle to turn. And finesse.

Found the combo set up yesterday for some head high barrels. Go figure, when the other breaks were mostly waist, with maybe some chest high soft peaks. 5@10 from the nw has filled in for this morning, with more super steep (160) 2@14. Gonna go see if I can find some of that. Word is Montara was pretty fun last night.

Fabio finally made the turn north but is barely hanging onto Hurri status. Looks like the past 7 hours he has been on an very good path and is now heading 320 at 7kt. He's losing steam quickly so every hour is key to some fun size waves for slocal throughout the week.

thanx ottime, i'll keep my eye out. i have owned some classic ole logs over the years, but been so long since. i'd like to pay as little as possible as i won't use it very much.

got a nice 2 session day in today. 1st one in southern maine where i found thigh/waist high waves and super clean. not much punch, but plenty of face for the rocket to work with. no one out cept for 3 of us from 7-8am when the waves were best, then it started to get busier as the swell dropped a bit. being surrounded by a crowd of loggers on my 5'9 is never a great time, but some of the best formed waves were the insiders where i sat, so that worked out.:)

after a coupla hours of that i headed south to nh and trunked it for a short sesh in rye. smaller than maine and kinda closey, but nice to be out there without any rubber.

may head back out this evening depending on the buoy, or just wait for morning.

hot out here, hotter tomorrow.

git some

rog

What is the water temp running back there? I might be in the water in just about a week's time. Southern Maine, with a crowd? Rivermouth? Long Sands? Hell, even the better days on my visit last sumer rarely saw another board the whole length of the beach. Love my homebreak.

i'd say mid 60's. jeffreys ledge buoy is high 60's, but some of the warm surface water must be drifting from the shore with the offshores.

longsands. only 3 of us the 1st hour 7-8am, then 20-25 spread out after that. i guess the wall had60-80 folks out by 630am. yikes. crowds are easy to avoid, even in nh.

woulda gone to rivermouth but tide was mid coming in.

rog

I am loving this current flat spell. Found head high plus peaks at my favorite fall spot yesterday. Sure the wall was a little weaker than ideal, but it was powerful enough for the 6'3" chip and to send you over the falls if you were not on top of things. And today I ferreted out the little southeast in the water and score chest to shoulder high barrels. I bet during this entire swell event since last Friday there have been fewer than a 100 surfers on it. Gotta love when all the forecast outlets are wrong about what this stretch of coast can pull in.

love that story:D^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

rog

Solspot forecast for today was "poopy" and knee to thigh high dribblers. I surfed overhead thick heavy fast pertain today and was a bit under gunned. So disappointed. Maybe they will be as wrong tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

I am loving this current flat spell. Found head high plus peaks at my favorite fall spot yesterday. Sure the wall was a little weaker than ideal, but it was powerful enough for the 6'3" chip and to send you over the falls if you were not on top of things. And today I ferreted out the little southeast in the water and score chest to shoulder high barrels. I bet during this entire swell event since last Friday there have been fewer than a 100 surfers on it. Gotta love when all the forecast outlets are wrong about what this stretch of coast can pull in.

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Well count your blessings, as I haven't surfed in weeks due to weak ass conditions. Granted, I can't be on it at any moment, but the days I have open during the week have sucked ass forever. Seriously, why live close to the ocean if you can't get some surf in. O, that is right, because my wife won't move to the mountains.
Rant over

And my wife is kinda pushing for us to move to the mountains but I'm afraid I'll miss the ocean....I'm constantly torn between the two

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Originally Posted by Piggity

And my wife is kinda pushing for us to move to the mountains but I'm afraid I'll miss the ocean....I'm constantly torn between the two

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well i'm single with all of the time in the world and now choose ocean living over mountain living 110%. once there's snow in the mountains, it's there, and pretty much always good and fresh if you tour even if it hasn't snowed in days/weeks. to score waves often and the best, you gotta be within minutes at any time, and have to be able to drop anything/everything. i mean shit, i caught the one waist high pulse in the last 2-3 weeks and it only lasted one hour, but i was on it cuz i was a few minutes away. if i lived up in the mountains i'd be fucked. living an hour an a half from george, i can score excellent uncrowded bc skiing even if it never snows on my days off all winter pretty much. don't be torn piggity. stay at the beach and run to the hills for the snow that lays/stays there. the ocean is so much more dynamic on so many levels.

rog

I agree with rog here on the point that if want to surf, you need to be near the beach. I'm lucky and within 5 minutes of a number of good breaks. The snow is 4 hours away, but I tend to get plenty of good snow each season. I know that I miss a lot, not living in the mountains (like the before/after work thing), but I would miss a whole lot more surf if I was even 20 minutes up into the local hills. Maybe it is that a good surf session can be had in an hour and a half, but a good tour takes most of the day. Or the surf is just that more fickle.

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Originally Posted by liv2ski

Well count your blessings

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I do daily. Right now, things are good, and I am lucky enough to have a go at it almost daily. In the fall, it will be a bit harder, but I try to get out every time I have a window and make the most of it. Recently, I have had a lot of short board days, but I can utilize my egg when things are not as well shaped, and take out my log when it is micro. I've been on the water 17 of the last 18 days. I returned from a trip 19 days ago, and travel again on Friday. For sure I will be in the water tomorrow morning.

17 out of 18, good game. wish i could say the same. i'd be a much more tolerable human being if the ocean was cooperating. maybe august:)

fickle, yes fickle. love and hate that word just the same. one of the gaggillion things i love about new hammy coastal living is that we can have a noreaster blow through town and pummeldump george with a foot or 2 o new, skin up to high east facing in the early am while the wind is still east and dropping. score beautiful deep pow in the gullies and fields before the wind switches and scary slabs start to form, put in about 6k of climbing before noon, get outta there and head to the beach while the wind goes offshore and surf from 2pm till dark. nice to be able to easily score ski/surf days from november-june.

another nice thing for going coastal is that more often than not, we can keep our cycling fitness all winter as well. no waves or just crap conditions? sub par conditions in the mountains? how bout some bone dry frozen ground grippy singletrack to rip around on.

livin:D

hope to see you soon mang^^^^^^^^^even if just for a beer!

rog

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Originally Posted by Piggity

And my wife is kinda pushing for us to move to the mountains but I'm afraid I'll miss the ocean....I'm constantly torn between the two

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You guys are right. Were I live would be pretty much most peoples dream location. Besides, if all goes well, in about 10-12 years we won't be working full time anymore and can live where ever we want in the USA, Canada or Europe. So lots of variety and locations will be had and seen, but I would bet anything we end up back where we are at, as oldsters probably like the beach more than the cold. I will be one of those guys out at Old Mans every morning:wink:

I would agree with the above sentiments on the ocean/mountain dilemma. I lived in the mountains for 5 years between college and grad school, and while I loved it, I'm glad I left. I would rather live close to the beach, as you really don't get to surf much otherwise. I am 5.5 hours from Mammoth, without traffic, and 1.5 hours from Mt. Baldy. In a good year, I get about 30 days at Mammoth and 10 at Baldy. I would rather do that, and get to surf all summer, than move to the mountains. There is also much more economic opportunity here.

I have sometimes thought about living in a place like Seattle or Denver, if I found the right work opportunity, but I would still be a weekender, so I don't think I would get too many more ski days than I do now. The advantage to those cities would be the ski convenience, but if you are willing to drive you can get lots of great skiing from socal. And when Baldy gets a good year I can pretty much get at least one day a weekend on the weekends I don't go to Mammoth, and some of those weekends I ski both days. Baldy really makes it nice to be a socal skier, although I wish the snow was a bit more consistent.

I don't surf much in the winter, as I am cubicle bound and devote my weekends to skiing, but it is nice to have the option.

nice combo of south swells yesterday at a norcal cove:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/8...836a19a7b0.jpg
2012-07-19 08.49.19 by pedpro, on Flickr

nice wall on that left, looks really fun.


The responses above pretty much echo my hesitation. I already feel too far from the beach living 1.5 miles away. Unfortunately we are priced out of anything closer (for buying) and I found myself surfing a lot less this past year for some reason. Probably a combo of injuries, lack of motivation, work, 2 kids, etc.... I am intrigued about living in Tahoe for a season though, I need more space and less people. I guess my only option would be for day or weekend trips for surf, ouch. House is officially on the market and we can't do anything until it sells, but all this is being talked about on a daily in my house

Piggity, Beacons on Saturday at 8am. Look for the blue Volvo wagon with SURF SD plates. Pray for surf and maybe I will see you there.

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Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

I was able to get plenty more ski days in Seattle - night skiing, touring after work, etc. Shit ton more fun weekday exercise than the gym. Later in the season if you can get out of work by 4 you can even get a 2-3k vert tour in before dark. Downside is the 2-3hr drive to surf which makes it all but useless.

Living closer to the beach definitely brought more pick-up sessions than even a 10-20 minute drive from the beach.

shrug, first world problems.


I'd second the log advice. they are fun for summer.

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I can see that with Seattle. I guess that would be the benefit of there or Colorado, you can get those type of tours in. If you are talking about full resort days, you could probably log a few more living close, but people in California can live in the cities and get days in, if they are willing to drive.

I actually have some friends who live in LA and get far more ski days than I do. I go to Mammoth 5 out of every 8 weekends, and I get 1-2 days at Baldy the weekends I stay home. They go to Mammoth 9 or every 10 weekends, and take extended ski vacations in the winter. They are late 40's, and don't have kids, so they don't have anything to tie them down. They are both attorneys, and work 9 days every 2 weeks, so every other weekend is 3 days. They probably log 70 days a year, at least. So it can be done, if you want it badly enough.

I don't think I would surf if I lived in Seattle, so when it comes down to it I would prefer living on the California coast and driving to get my ski days each year, versus living in Seattle and basically stopping surfing. Like you said, living 5 minutes away from surf gets you some of those random evening cleanups, stuff you don't get if you live even an hour away.

HC, did you surf at all in Seattle, or did you just enjoy the skiing?

PedPro,

Nice pic. I'm just about ready to end the week, and that photo really makes me want to run home and grab my board.

skiing: "should have been here yesterday..."

surfing: "should have been here an hour ago..."

L2S, we'll be getting our house ready for another showing this morning but if I can break away then I'll head up. I'll be riding a green striped 8'0" TDK

^^^^Good luck with the showing. Looks smaller than yesterday, so will be on the 8'10" (my longest board) wetsuit has short sleeves and long legs. I will catch you on a better swell. Enjoy your weekend.

Paddled out around 8:30am. Didn't see you in the lineup, but think I saw you get out of the water around 9:30 or so, is your board a tri-fin? I was in trunks with no rashy.

Caught a couple fun little NW wind swell peaks. Saw this guy destroying knee-waist high waves. He was doing full on round houses on knee high waves and he had enough speed to absolutely destroy the lip on the rebound, very few people I've ever seen could compare to how easy he made it look

^^^^Yep, 9:30ish. Weaker than yesterday at Swami's. Guy must of weight 80lbs to get anything going today. O well, better than nuthin. Came home for a quick breakfast and then the pups to the dog park for an hour. We are all whipped, so it is nap time.:biggrin:

ended up with 19 sessions in 19 days. Was going to go for 20/20 with an early morning low tide excursion to my favorite negative tide small combo surf spot near my home, but during session 19, my car was broken into and everything was stolen. And I had my guard down, so that included my wallet (and phone, glasses, watch...) Thieves suck. And I know this, cause it happened a year ago, but if you are surfing near SC, don't leave anything in the car at the Miles.

Anyway, had to spend the day searching for my passport, canceling cards, buying a new phone, instead of packing and cleaning. So the early AM session did not seem like the best idea. Now I am headed to Maine and it looks like knee high might be the best thing for the next few days.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

ended up with 19 sessions in 19 days. Was going to go for 20/20 with an early morning low tide excursion to my favorite negative tide small combo surf spot near my home, but during session 19, my car was broken into and everything was stolen. And I had my guard down, so that included my wallet (and phone, glasses, watch...) Thieves suck. And I know this, cause it happened a year ago, but if you are surfing near SC, don't leave anything in the car at the Miles.

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Sorry to hear that. Thieves should get the death penalty. Hope you are able to get some of it back through insurance.

What is it about the Miles that attracts thieves? I have heard lots of stories of break-ins there.