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I have the 7s and I like them in snow but with they were a bit more open in slush and better in the rain. The Dunlop winterports I had on my old 3 series were beasts in rain and slush but not as goood on ice or hard pack snow. As mentioned above all trade offs but I think a performance winter is a better Puget sound option than a true snow.
Agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
I think, though for me, I’d rather drive more like a maniac when I’m on snow and then just be more careful on the wet curves in the rain.
It’s been so odd, I’ve been wondering if these tires are super sensitive to air pressure. I’m going to experiment with pressure this winter. Maybe as they wear in (I’m only at 6k) they’ll get better.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
Something I’ve considered too. But then at what point does one of the newer all weather 3 peak tires make a case versus a performance snow and swap overs twice a year?Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
Could be pressure, maybe?
The CX-3 calls for 32/32, but that’s more than required to handle the loading so I run the winters at 29f/26r. We never load it up in the winter, so don’t need the maximum load capacity on the rear and the lower pressure makes it less tail happy when drifting. And lower pressures just increase overall traction on snow.
The Sienna calls for 35/35 and I keep 35 in the front because that pressure actually is required to meet the load capacity given the weight, but again I drop the rears, down to 32, because we never load right up in the winter.
This is on the radar for when I wear out my snows. I have wild peak trails on my summer wheels and might leave them on and test it out. I know normal no seasons suck in wet snow but maybe the newer options are better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stikki
I think of it as percentages. When I lived in San Francisco and drove back-and-forth to Tahoe, I used aggressive all seasons because how much non-snow driving hours was doing, 80% was non-snow. When I moved to rural Washington I bought snows because I spent 80% of my time with snow or ice on the road. Now I’m 50-50, (but I already have the rims), so…
I thought the x-ice was the perfect winter tire for commuting through the sodden lowlands up to snowline. good in wet, good enough in snow, long wearing and quiet.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
The new all weather tires kick ass. The new Nokian Remedy WR G5 are amazing in every condition I've had them in and they're far better in the rain and slush than any winter specific tires I've ever had. Not to mention how quiet they are on the highway compared to winters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stikki
Those Wildpeaks are fantastic in the snow as long as you don't have to turn. Straightline traction and braking is very good, they're better on the highway than most in the category that I've tried but my mpg dropped by 3.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
Everything you're saying makes sense, but how are you determining what kind of pressures you need for a given load?Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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Comin up the coast from LA to SF I stopped at a windsurfer comp where I met this windsurfer/ speed skier/ carpenter who told me they would sell / instal chains on the road between Tahoe and LA I , hard work but they could make 500-600 bucks a day which would have been good money back in the day
Playing with this:Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/
Once you’ve entered your info it will tell you the load capacity at the entered pressure.
You can find the ‘gross axle weight rating’ on the door jamb sticker. Then I’m making sure my front pressures support half the front axle weight rating.
Rear, I’m guesstimating a little, but I know my car and van are both front heavy.
Nice, thanks! That's a good resource. I'll have to play around with it a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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Another calculator they have lets you enter your current tire size and then find suitable alternates. Great if you’re trying to downsize your winter tire width or wheel diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
https://tiresize.com/calculator/
Anybody ever have issues with their valve stems slowly leaking at the seal with the wheels? Anybody know a home remedy, like that sealant goop?
I experience it every few years. Getting it taken care of with my old (now retired) tire guy was general simple and straightforward. It’s a bit of a pita with the other shops in town because it’s never detectable submersing the tire under water or squirting with soapy water, and they have to take my word that the stem needs to be resealed. Last time, 2 years ago, it was a couple hour long ordeal at the tire shop. Time before that, another shop had me drop off the mounted tire and they squeezed it into their schedule, which took a few days with my car sitting on a stump/jack stand at my house.
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On my 5th winter with a set of Hakka's. I'm not sure how many miles but probably 30-40k. Have put 92k on the truck over the period of time since purchasing them. Had a little trouble starting after stopping on a steep icy hill last weekend but otherwise still seem "ok". Down to about 50% tread and plan to replace them next fall. Seems like all of the local shops are out of my size this year anyway except studded which I'd prefer not to have. I've run 2 sets of Blizzaks prior to these and only get 2-3 winters so I'm pretty impressed with the Haks.
Kind of funny story, our SAR team was paged out last March and had to get to a snowed in trailhead. The 4x4 team also responded and some jacked up jeeps were getting stuck on their big mud terrain tires. They were a little embarrassed when I pulled in driving a stock F150 and offered to pull them out.
You could always ask the shop to pull the studs out if that's all they have in your tire size.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
Yeah, but a studded tire without it’s studs is going to be worse than one designed as studless, assuming we’re talking top tier tires. (Which I assume Bronco is, since he’s running Hakkas.)Quote:
Originally Posted by Toadman
What about “studdable” snow tires? I’ve always assumed not as good as “studless” or studded “studdable” snows, but much much better than snowflake all seasons or AT’s.
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I think that’s likely right.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
If you got studdable tires you will see the holes where the studs go,
I don't think you will see those holes in an ice radial type of tire cuz the idea is they are studless ?
IME you wana buy your snow tires early, one year it was a real problem for some Canadians cuz snow tires were mandated as a must have in some fucking province back east so there were not enough tires in the country cuz those eastern bastard needed every snow tire in the country to comply
fortunately i had scoped this ^^ situ and bought my snow tires in september
If you wank about waiting till all the snow tires are out of stock ... they will be out of stock
I thought the Hakkas were the same tire just one has studs the other doesn’t.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
Everytime I see the word Hakkas I thing of the Hawk Tuah girl. I wonder what her treat pattern is like in slippery conditions?Quote:
Originally Posted by neufox47
No the area where the stud pockets are is a harder compound for stud retention. I don't know how it affects the tires performance but I'd guess that it matters more if it's not studded.Quote:
Originally Posted by neufox47
There are different Hakkas. The current R5 is designed as studless, the current 10 is designed to take studs, though it can be purchased without.Quote:
Originally Posted by neufox47
Since OP said he didn’t want studs, my assumption was that he currently had the R5 (or previous R3), which are the studless specific designs, but maybe I shouldn’t have assumed.
I don't think the 10 comes without studs.
LT3 can maybe purchased without studs.