Looks like the inside shore break at most places here in hawaii
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Looks like the inside shore break at most places here in hawaii
Anybody surfed around Lima, Peru?
Wife has a little work thing down there for a month and I just booked it off. 5 weeks of Peruvian surf. Going to be beauty.
been a fun week plus up here. winds allowed for some north coast ledges to awaken. glad to see so much fun is being had. maybe one day scotty wont be so miserable. good to see a few old friends this past week. autumn return is welcomed.
Scott is whiteking? Extremely miserable or possibly trying to be funny and failing.
https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...752__forum.jpg so miserable..... jajaaa
https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...652__forum.jpgso so sooooooooo miserable. ... jaja
Swell has been nice on south shore....4 to 7 .... makes me feel in heaven
nice to see you post something positive there Scotty.
i get it now. you were just pissy cause you burned your retina looking at the sun. sucks man. just ignore those shadows in the wave.
this evening things are coming together for some ledge surfing to turn on again. just wished these weak souths would stop crossing everything up. then it would be perfection.
You don't get it..........the kind people at a certain company give me glasses all the time.
Wow. Aren't you very special. Perhaps you should tell yourself that skittle bit less often and you may come across as less douchey. Maybe.
Ledges delivered. Back to the points for Olaf and the SW. Another small NW arrive tonight and Mavs might find a window Thursday morning. All in all, another fun October week.
Fun day yesterday in my zone between Cotton's and Uppers. Shoulder to head high and peaky, with a nice tapered wall. The lefts were wrapping all the way in, and some of them were pretty long. Pump along the wall, nice sweeping cutback, line up again....The water was 70-72, so all in all another great day.
Our water is quite a bit cooler, but still hanging in the low 60s sure makes it feel toasty. Been wearing the retired suit for over a year now.
Super fun yesterday up here. The swell dropped and was running just about head high. It is a blast to be out in playful surf, and just doing what ever you wanted to try after having a few days of juice, where the wave dictates how you surf for the most part. Don't get me wrong, Fri/Sat was a blast being back at the ledges and feeling just enough of the juice to take out the step up and pay attention to the drop.
The vibe has been great up here this past week. Town was a little pinched with the coldwater classic around last week, but after that circus left, people have been pretty stoked. More swell filled in last night, and it now looks like we could have good conditions Wed/Thur as the next storm heads ashore well north and the first solid swell of the season is slated to arrive.
This morning was really fun in Cardiff.
A little mushy with a really high tide. Really excited for tomorrow! Should be epic conditions.
Get out there and throw each other some stoke!
https://www.tetongravity.com/images/...lip__forum.jpg
I'll try to get down to the cliffs with a camera later. I actually have a bunch backed up on that card right now. Without doubt west cliff will be going off this afternoon with a negative tide right before sunset. Swell is currently 5-6@17 from 300.
Got a few bombs up the coast this morning at a certain ledge. I checked scotts based on the high tide, but so did everybody else. Ended up traveling a bit and found that it was not swamped. It actually was pretty damn perfect, with only the biggest waves grabbing the reef, but when they did, they threw. And threw far like a ledge is want to do.
I was having fun the last few days at shitty point and a session off the point at the lane, surfing the small board and the swell being a head to head plus playful fun. It was great to get off the bigger surf of last Friday/Saturday, which required a solid drop and getting your speed around the section, and instead be able to just rip and turn where ever you wanted.
That was not the case so much this morning. Mostly ten footers hitting the reef pretty hard. The good ones would reel for 50 yards or more before winding down. That is a pretty long ride for this reef. But it is a fast 50 yards with three, maybe four turns. Occasionally an eight footer would roll through, and if it grabbed the reef right, these ones were just fun, slow reelers. Two others out. Just enough. Got five solid waves and a few other ones that did not quite come together. No bad wipeouts. I did have to paddle in, as there was a ten minute lull, and I was starting to get late. No big deal though, as the wave previous rewarded me with a full, albeit quick barrel. With the super high tide and pumping surf, the waves were running up the the cliff. No beach. Knowing the spot, I was not fazed and easily scrambled up to where my board bag was. Someone had shifted a few feet further up the cliff, as spray was hitting the area. As I walked across the ledge, my foot slipped on the moistened soil and lost grip. I caught myself quickly, but some how came up with a shredded left pointer finger. All blood and mud, I put down my board, down climbed and let a few waves splash my hand clean. With a slower climb out, and first aid administered at the car, I was late for pre school pick up. Well worth it.
It has been a very fun two weeks up here. The winds have been off and on, so not all days allowed one to surf up the coast. Still many did. And it is only getting better. I'm sure there were a few 12' sets out there this morning. Did not grab any of those though, so I can't be sure. Swell peaking now so I imagine sunrise will be pretty epic in parts, before the tide gets too high. And we have another, smaller, but still fun sized long period for Halloween. And maybe middle of next week. Game on.
/blog
Hope you guys see some of this juice filter south.
Glad not to have been climbing that cliff the past two days. Finally got out again this morning. Meh, compared to what has been going on. Still fun. SLightly OH drops followed by smaller sections. Four of us out on a nice long submerged point. We were bunched together, as it was really only going from one spot, and that first bowl was the best. Even had a real set come through where it set up solid OH through the wave. Pretty sloppy over all, with all the piled up swells, but still pretty damn fun out there. Been seeing lots of old friends that seem to only re appear come the fall swells.
And while the next one lined up is looking a little smaller, with more local jumble on it, there are waves lined up through the next week. Suddenly I can't recall when it has been less than head high. Been fun.
Curious what you guys got down south as well as NorCal and V.I.. What you guys seeing out there? Anyone been to Pt Arena these past few days? Stiles?
Omg yawnnnnnnnn
Down south it is chest high at upper trestles. I don't know how big it is in Newport, but I would prefer to go there at chest high versus uppers at chest high, as uppers gets too soft and is a long drive. It is a moot point for me, as it is my anniversary this weekend so I won't be in the water, but we obviously don't have what you guys have up there.
I actually got in the water this morning. One and a half hour Newport session. Waist to chest high and clean, with occasional shoulder high sets, although the bigger sets were closing out. The best waves were the ones slightly smaller than chest high, as some of them had a bit of corner to them. It was not great, one of those sessions where you take off on everything hoping you can make the shoulder and you are unsuccessful most of the time, but I still had some fun ones. The water is still close to 70.
Water temps dropping this past week here. Still warm, just not balmy. I like it, as it weeds out the cranks a bit.
Monday morning I was channeling rog. 7 waves in 35 minutes. I got up to Scott's late after wasting time checking the lane. Only two out and pumping sets lined up running well OH. Suited up only do find then on the beach. Seeing I was solo, they suggested caution, and then I was paddling out. Timed it perfectly and was soon in the channel working my way out around the reef. A good sized one swing wide, I spun and was up and going. About 4' OH. I kicked out an found the current conveyed me right to my next wave. That brought me way inside, but the conveyor belt soon saw me out near the peak. One after the other. The smallest was just a few feet OH, and the biggest two DOH. The last one I was driving a section when the whole thing closed on me. I was 30 yards off the sand and decided to call it a day. I think I spent a total of three minutes actually waiting for waves. A perfect session. I was even a half hour early picking up my kid today.
Moderate junky stuff out there now. Looks like another solid moderate swell for Sunday. And KW got 18". Things are looking good.
Went out with these guys today. Work has kept me from it for a minute, but I was off last night. Beautiful day, driving south along OB, saw a guy pull into a sideshore shack. It never fails, you always have beautiful waves when you have something worthwhile to do. Took in a few gallons pushing the kids into waves. So totally stoked, can't wait to get back in the water to do it again.
That looks like a cool program. Do you you take them to lindamar?
You working sunday morning?
We did. The city of Pacifica is getting kind of nosey about use permits. May not be there much longer, but for a beach to spend a few hours in making sure nobody dies, it's not bad. OB was a nightmare.
I'm off Sunday morning, but will be flying back from Idaho. Your Scott's story has me itching to start driving again. The beach has been terrible so far this year.