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If the Hanger is anything like it was 15-20 yrs ago I'll bet they have hella stock to be found all over the store. I remember finding a couple WTB SST saddles back then in a trash can filled with saddles for something like $15 each. They had trashcans of helmets as well. I never understood how they could stay in business.
Anyone have any experience with the shimano BR MT420 brakes?? 4 pot. The 520’s get great reviews but I can’t find them. Looking for a cheap set to
Replace a pair of sram.
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The place has an interesting vibe, last night was the first time I've ever been inside. And I was only there because the best bootfitter in town has a little corner of the shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by tellybele
aahh, he isn't at Gull anymore? He used to work at the hanger and that was my only reason for going there.
Negative, but maybe worth mentioning - I just bought a set of Magura Trail Sports (similar price I believe) and am really happy with them so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Pinkbike buy/sell purchase. How long should I wait until I ask Paypal for my $ back (it wasn't sent friends/family)?
On Jan 7th I bought from a seller with a 3 year history and multiple items sold. Great communication on the 7th and finished by saying "I’ll get them out tomorrow and get you tracking". Nothing since then. I've sent multiple PB messages and the little envelope indicates they haven't been read. I emailed the address he provided for paypal, but haven't heard back.
Covid? Car accident? I don't suspect it's a scam.
edit: maybe this should have gone in the rant thread
User name?Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Perhaps a little Maggot intervention would help?
Thanks, but I don't want to jump to conclusions just yet and throw him under the bus. It's just a set a bars, so not a real high dollar item. I've never used the Paypal Purchase Protection program and was curious when I should start the process. After reading some of the paypal user agreement, it looks like I don't have to rush.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
The M6120 is $190 shipped F&R with resin pads, levers, and hoses pre-charged on the Bay right now. I put these on as an upgrade from some low end 2-pistons. The difference is amazing. I actually really like the modulation and bite point. They’re the same as MT520 just a different badging (thanks Shimano).
Difference on long fast descents is night and day. They will also fit the older style metal pads, just not the newer style with larger cooling fins.
I’ll check those out. Shipping to Canada right now is a cluster, as it seems to be in the states as well. Forsure wanna get a set and some other bike parts when I canQuote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
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getting ready to order up some dentist wheels from Nobl for a new downcountry build, boy that term feels as stupid to type as it does to say
centerlock v 6 bolt?
DT 240 EXP worth it over plain old 240?
I guess the first question led to the other since the EXP is centerlock only, my current stable is all 6 bolt.
Or I just pick a Hydra color and be done with it.
If engagement matters to you, I don't believe you can get a 54t ratchet for EXP, just 36t.
Have you ever had to take a rotor off trailside to limp a bike back to the trailhead?Quote:
Originally Posted by ticketchecker
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Centerlock is a solution in search of a problem that is worse in every possible way.Quote:
Originally Posted by ticketchecker
back in the day rotor bolts were often loose on the old hayes Mags but only if you looked
even worse they were not allen they were torx which is a wrench nobdoy carried so it became a probelm if they loosened out enough to get lost, I seem to rememebr dealing with someone having lost 2 bolts by moving bolts around cuz you really only need 3
never dealt with centerlock
No, but I have zip tied the caliper to the seatstay to get out of a jam.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Fewer bolts to remove.
a rotor flacidly flopping on an axle is harder to mitigate and if you rode somewhere that you are really gona need that brake its even mo not good
Have notQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
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The new EXP is really nice.
Less weight, fewer parts to go wrong, more reliable (not that those were DT weak points in the past)
I'm a big fan of CenterLock, but I am also all Shimano (brakes) on all my bikes.
having never seen how centerlock works, how does it work ?
I probably got it on my 5.5
Like a cassette and lock ring but a rotor. Even uses the same tool sometimes.
I've had to take my wheel off and pry my pads apart and then try to avoid using that brake for awhile because my sram guide master cylinder piston was sticking in hot weather.
Pretty simple to rebuild and works like new again though.
TLDR life story:
Live on the North Shore, decided last year I need an annoyingly expensive non-snow hobby, bought an old (2006?) Stumpjumper, rode a lot, crashed a lot, determined mtb is actually pretty fun, heeded advice somewhere upthread to not sink money into trying to “modernize” an old bike.
Was also told somewhere up there my old bike is “actively trying to kill me” on the dh, which may partly explain the frequent otb events (that and skill deficit.)
Resolved to buy a new (to me) bike. Borrowed a few buddies endurbro 29ers, and found that exceptionally fun. And less crashy.
So now, like every other 40ish bro in Vancouver, I’m looking for a 2017ish 29er, riding mostly on the north shore,$2500 range hopefully.
Questions:
- being a bike jong, how much difference will I actually notice in travel? Eg is there a practical difference bw 135 vs 150 that the everyday rider would notice?
- Same question re slackness. Are a couple degrees difference in hta/ sta going to make for a noticeably different riding experience?
- Assume if I get a lower spec but on a modern platform I can upgrade components as I start to notice how shitty they are? Eg looking at an Spcl Enduro Comp, looks pretty entry level, but I could build it out more as I improve?
Weird starting something so fresh at this age.
And if anyone has anything to sell that fits the above that would be helpful too...
Edit. Maybe this should go in the bike jong thread
North shore Vancouver buy the longest travel slackest bike you are willing to pedal uphill. Wheelbase length is your friend for not going over the bars, it gets longer when you go longer reach and slacker.
Anything 2017 or newer will be awesome. Buy what you can afford that fits you. Don’t let someone talk you into a bike that’s kinda small thinking you can make it work.
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+1 for your first couple seasons, no sense in getting a specific bike, just get a trail bike with somewhere between 130-150 rear travel and a 150ish fork. Everybody pisses on Fox 34 forks that come on a lot of the ~$2500 bikes, but I'm 200 pounds and put on 150k vertical feet of riding last summer, and I still can't tell the difference between it and the Fox Kashima 36 I demoed.
What I'm trying to say is, don't get hung up on gear. A 2017 and up trail bike should have good geometry and parts you'll wear out eventually. By the time they wear out, you'll know what you like and can replace accordingly, or just trade the whole bike in for the bike you've realized you were missing by the time you get that much experience.