Printable View
I got GF a set of Schwalbe ice spiker pros ( 1 spike per knob) from CRC, I mounted them up/ tested on a nearby out door hockey rink, the traction is quite amazing the $$$ wasnt bad form CRC
if yer on pow or packed snow with no ice a Fat bike tire or even a mtn bike tire does ok but if it gets icy or there is snow on ice the traction could be inconsistant and you really need studs which are expensive on a Fat bike
I would buy another set of ice spikerpro's if i wanted to commute
Sweet! Thanks for the input.
As mentioned - a tire with tread (sans studs) does fine as long as there is no ice. The problem is that snow can sometimes hide where ice (and hard packed snow) is or isn't. I ride for exercise in the winters - mainly on backroads but occasionally on trails. After falling on an icy road a few years ago (on 5" fat bike tires) I decided that it wasn't worth it to me to ride snowy roads without studs. Falls on ice hurt a lot and could shorten my skiing and cycling seasons.
Studded tires are stupid expensive. Look on the Facebook fat bike or mountain bike pages and watch for a deal. Terrene makes a studded 2.8" tire (cakeeater and wazia both) that have worked well for me on a few different bikes. Tire wear is almost non-existent when riding snow so they will last forever.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod123204
The ice spiker pro close to 400 studs depending on if its for mtn bike or 700 rim size 1/2 price at only 60$, such a good deal there are none left but its whats out there
studded fat bike tires are very expensive so i didnt buy them, if conditions dictate a need for studs I leave the Fat bike in the shed
In case anyone is curious, I've been riding a 2.5 DHF EXO 3C on the front for the second half of the summer. For the first half, I rode a 2.3 DHF EXO 3C.
While their weight is not much different, the 2.5 is ~ 1 minute slower on a 20 minute climb. This result was similar across various climbs.
I'm sticking with the 2.3 on my Ripmo as I prefer the snappier feel and in general, I don't need that extra bit of traction.
You had me at Exo...Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
If you decide to sell the 2.5 and it's in good shape I may be interested.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Maybe you're just getting older and slower? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
So, as far as Maxxis tires, what is the real difference between a WT tire and a standard tire? My situation is this, my Ebike came with 2.6 DHF/DHR tires. i got around 1,000 miles on them and replace them with Maxxis Assegai 2.5WT F&B. Replaced the rear tires after about 700 with the same. Now want to replace both. My latest idea is to go to 2.6 Assegai front and a 2.6 Dissector rear. Or, go with 2.5 Assegai WT front and 2.4 Dissectors WT rear. Lastly, my rims are 30 mm, not sure if that is inner or outer measurement.
Never was that thrilled with the Assegais on rear, seemed like they would overpower in turns
Bullit came with 2.5 assegai front/ 2.4 minion rear in double down which I thot worked fine so I got the very same tires cuz some of the knobs were ripping at around 2000 kms
The rear tire always seem to be sized slightly smaller than the front on a mtn bike and I'm not sure why, maybe less weight/ resistance but thats not an issue on an E-bike
I really like the mullet config
getting a deal or even finding Assegai in stock was not as easy as finding the DHRII
Article on WT:Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadzilla
https://blisterreview.com/gear-revie...dhf-wide-trail
But I’m not sure what the question is. Is the concern that the 2.6s are not labeled WT?
I wasn't noticing anything telling me what WT on a maxxis means so good find ^^
I got a new one here and you can tell if you have a WT cuz its right next to the tire size
so " 29x2.50WT " is written on the tire casing
Yes, but…Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
My understanding is that 2.6s are WT, even though it’s not printed on the tire itself. Just assumed that a tire that wide is going on a wide rim.
One would assume but I don't know about the 2.6 ?
I can tell you how to figure out if you have an Assegai 29x2.50 WT cuz its painted on the tire
I don't know how old the WT thing is, so when I go out to the shed I will take a look on last years tires for the WT
Does no one stud their own tires anymore? Take a worn mountain tire and put some shorty sheet metal screws in there. An hour of your time and a few bucks.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Same camp. If there is that much ice, and it's not rideable "crust" it's time to bust out the trail running shoes with spikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I've heard of it, never done it ^^Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
re-thinking the Fat bike purchase I don't think I would buy it again for snow cuz I've probably already been outside all day skiing, so I'm not as interested in staying outside to ride a bike but I already got the bike so wtf eh
Maxxis rolled out WT casings in 2014 / 2015. At first, you could buy 2.4" and 2.5" tires in either WT or regular casings, with WT being designed around 30-35mm rims, and regular casings being designed around ~25mm rims. These days, Maxxis doesn't make any "aggressive" tires in a 2.4" or 2.5" from that aren't WT. Some of their more xc-ish tires still have a regular casing in fatter widths. And narrower widths (like a 2.3" DHF) are still available in the regular casing.
2.6 tires from Maxxis are designed around a 30-35mm rim from the beginning, so they're effectively WT casings, but they're not labelled as such. But there's no such thing as a 2.6 casing that's designed for a 25mm rim (at least from Maxxis).
So, to answer the original question: the difference between the 2.6 Assegai and 2.5 WT Assegai is .1. They're both designed around the same width rim. Although my experience with Maxxis 2.6's is that they feel like a good bit more tire than the 2.5's (meaning that the 2.6's feel more than .1 heavier and slower).
mounted up the Assegai, every tire new and old out in the shed ( assegai & DHRII ) has the WT designation but not an old Agressor
man does the maxxis ever mount easy on a WTB i30 rim
Thanks Toast, that's what I am looking for because I want to change my setup and this tells me a lot. Right now kinda stuck on my decision. Either go to 2.6 F&R or 2.5WT F and maybe 2.4 WT R. Tires in my mind would be Assegai F and Dissector R. This is on a full size Ebike thinking that maybe the smaller setup would improve the cornering ability.
Some of the manufacturers like to put big dumb 2.6 tires on full sized ebikes to give them more traction (probably mostly for braking). Those tires suck IMO - they tend to have light casings, so you have to run higher pressures to support them, or they fold and squirm like crazy. Get a set of tires in the 2.5 or 2.4 range with heavy casing (Double Down from Maxxis or Super Gravity from Schwalbe). The heavier sidewall offers a lot more support and will let you run a bit lower pressure, and still net more traction.
I wouldn't recommend a Dissector at all for an ebike. The knobs on it are so small they disintegrate in 3 weeks of riding on a normal bike. I'd guess you'd nuke it in like 3 ebike rides. If you want all the grip and don't care about rolling resistance, double Assegai. If you want a little bit faster and want to be able to move the rear around a little, Assegai 2.5 / DHR 2.4. For better rolling speed still and a minor drop in raw grip, Magic Mary 2.4 / Big Betty 2.4.
Also the DD casings don't leak stan's fluid thru the side wall like other tires I've used and they go on so easy,
Santa Cruz spec'd the 2.5 Assegai/2.4 combo DHRII on their E-bike which lasted 2200kms so I just bought the same tires ... very satisfyed
wouldn't shed the mud had some sketchy moments, 2 mates riding with were on DHR2s they didn't have the same problem. I've swapped back up to DHR gona save krypo's till next yearQuote:
Originally Posted by sf
Sent from my SM-G780G using TGR Forums mobile app
I found my Argotal/Kryptotal set up to be downright sketchy in true hardpack and on rock. Only kept them installed on my bike for 2 or 3 rides.
But to be fair, I have the Trail Endurance casing and compound which is the hardest and longest wearing of Black Chilli. Not really a fair comparison coming from Maxx Grip Maxxis.
Also, the Argotal isn’t really designed for the intermountain west. But, I was hoping it would cross over a little more effectively, like a Shorty does.
Any previous experience with Baron/Kaiser?Quote:
Originally Posted by One (+) Sentence
Not really. A few years ago I briefly had a 27.5” bike with a Baron on the front, but it was the 2.6 which looked to have a somewhat unique tread pattern when compared to the standard 2.4 or whatever.Quote:
Originally Posted by sf