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This is the method I've settled on. It's fast, relatively simple tools, and measures from the base edge rather than the topsheet. I typically draw 7 or so marks -- one at boot center, 3 on each side. And then take the line that is the best between them with a long straight edge. Takes all of 2 minutes per ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
I skip the center line altogether. I just use calipers to measure from the template centerline to the ski edge on both sides, making small adjustments moving the tape until the measurements are even.
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Sure that works, but imagine how great it would be to have a Lego centering tool with Batman holding a laser guide. I'd be finding centers on everything in the house.Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe
I'm working on a Barbie inspired version. You spread her legs over the ski and she's got a little light that shines out her woohoo, and as you move her up and down the ski it traces the center line.
T square held against steel edge, put a mark mid ski ish on painters tape, move T quare to other steel edge make another mark the same distance from edge, splitting the difference between the marks gives you ski center
do this again so there are ski center marks 18" apart at mid ski, draw a line between the 2 marks and you got a center line at mid ski
All I use is a t square and a tape measure for all my ski layout cuz mounting ski bindings is really just good layout and so this does not have to be complicated
If I was doing more skis for money I would come up with a faster method but this ain't that
I'm killing it lately on mounts so I challenged myself last evening. I mounted a pair of Attacks on J skis Allplay with only the following :\
--pencil
--small L square with cm markings
--painters tape
--bsl length w/out the actual boot
--cordless drill
--drill bit
--glue
--screwdriver
No templates, no beer, no bench and I was done in an hr.
i live and die with your slidewright centering ruler. Sign me up for one of these. Is there a guinea pig price?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Agreed. It’s not rocket surgery.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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really? have you ever surgered a rocket? hmmm?
I'm going to use this going forward. Simple, repeatable, and accurate. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I used to say "it isn't rocket biology "
But then someone always takes my deadpan/pithy comments seriously and I have to splain myself
For the sharpest, most consistent, thin line, Please base your devices on a Papermate #2 yellow plastic mechanical pencil.
Seriously the best. Buy the 10 pack. You will love them.
Much more accurate than a pen.
Interesting. 0.7mm? I had been thinking 0.5mm. Have you tried softer lead (HB) than #2 to reduce tape tear? I've also considered supplying colored leads. What's the width flat to flat face and corner to corner?Quote:
Originally Posted by powdrhound
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Getting used to this now. Note to self don’t drink double espresso beforehand.
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That's a baller setup. Me gusta.
Concurrent activity; my boy builds a killer robot from mega blocks.
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Double IPAQuote:
Originally Posted by pembyguy
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Hey does anyone have excess little rubber plugs they dont want? I like using them to plug existing holes but some don't.
I got a pack of 50 and used them all up remounting bindings.
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That’s excellent adviceQuote:
Originally Posted by jhyatt
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Back several lives ago they gave us the mechanical pencils to fill out work order slips which were fed into a machine that optically read them to capture data to decide ba whole bunch of things that were mostly FUBarQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
IME In real life .5mm is pretty fucking delicate and put holes in whatever you were trying to write on and the lead constantly breaks whereas a .7 mm lead didn't break and didn't fuck up whatever you were trying to write on
How exact does a line drawn on a piece of painters tape have to be ??
I'm inclined to agree that the .5 is too delicate and the .7 is fine enough. With a long history using mechanical pencils and lead holders with different lead hardnesses, Rapidographs down to 000, and CAD drawing it's a rabbit hole of options and accuracies vs KISS with reasonable and realistic accuracy, along with moderate durability.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Probably, I can check when I get home tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by jhyatt
Does anybody have a good technique for getting those damn things out? I just picked up some skis that have a few installed but I'm putting holes awfully close and I'd rather take them out and replace with epoxied in bamboo.
Drive a deck screw into them just a bit, then yank em outQuote:
Originally Posted by HAB
^^^ this. Drill a tiny pilot hole, send a drywall screw in a few threads (not too far!), then pull out with a claw hammer. A block under the hammer help get a bit more leverage to pull them out cleanly
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Yup, that sounds like a good way to do it. Thanks!
Well shit, went to do a simple inserting tonight using existing holes. Of course when I pulled off the heels I found the shop “tech” put the new holes real close to a prior set. Too close IMO, like it would have been that hard the give a little clearance? Such is life.
I feel like the consensus is gonna be to adjust the heel position up or back to get decent clearance of prior holes?
Or with it being 2 of the 4—would pulling the two plastic plugs and epoxying in some wood (or whatevs) give enough structure to insert using current holes?
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