Sick. EnjoyQuote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
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Sick. EnjoyQuote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
Legos are cool.
I'm mounting my own fucking skis which are already drilled for Jesters.
I don't want fucking Markers (and I'm fucking cheap and already have STHs and FKSs)
So STHs are a complete disaster in the toe with every single hole slightly overlapping (and I don't want to go forward or back).
On to the FKS, which looks pretty good.
Too good ... in fact so good that it looks like the I can reuse the rear two Jester toe holes.
Measuring on the mounting templates the FKS's rear two toe holes are 35mm apart while the Jester's are 36mm.
Placing the actual FKS toe onto the ski the fit looks extremely good.
I'm going for it, even though I'll likely die.
PS Mounting a Kastle MX98.
That's got the Titinal, so 4.1mm drill, yes?
Definitely 4.1
So each hole is only 0.5mm off or less than 1/64th of an inch.Quote:
Originally Posted by pfluffenmeister
Yes it will be fine, get both screws started before you crank them down.
I don't blame you for not wanting Markers on your skis. "FKS since 2003"
^^^ Yep, they fit nicely.
IIRC I read to mount FKSs for a BSL of 5mm smaller than your boot to get best dildo performance?
Don't FKS only have +/- 7.5mm?
-5mm on the look jig. The paper templates are very close, I just round 1mm on both sides, so essentially close the paper template 2mm.
Jester FKS is generally a good match.
MTN and Vipec/Tecton heels are very close as well.
FKNA Lego stoke on Xmas day!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
I thought the process was... jig at correct bsl, drill the toe holes, then close the jig at the heels only by 5mm and drill the heels? NOT THIS
caveat- I've only used the paper template to practice an fks mount, I've never drilled holes and mounted bindings on a pair of skis.
Edit- Found the answer here @ Option 1
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...1&d=1591465472
"For best range and adjustability, close the template 5mm from the actual boot sole length."
Dshack89 I made a centering tool like the one you described. Pretty easy with a drill press, digital caliper, and the right drill bits. Was able to get mine with .2mm of center. Personally I find it way faster and more precise than measuring the middle on various points on the ski and connecting the dots (which I did for years).
Attachment 307679Attachment 307680
Would be cool to see something like the slidewright be commercially available. CNC could probably get something dead nuts centered.
Attachment 307694Quote:
Originally Posted by prsboogie
X2
Also, if you put this across the top of the ski you could mark the center bump of the cross LEGO as the center of the ski.
That's perfect! Thanks for sharing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Samski360
Sent from my SM-N970U using TGR Forums mobile app
I can get it dead on center with the CNC, but the laser is even better. One variable is the tip location of writing utensil and what it's drawn on; tape, smooth or matte top sheet, etc. A pencil is easy BUT if the sharpener doesn't sharpen the pencil perfectly symmetrical, there will be an inaccuracy. A felt pen or ink pen might bleed and/or create a wider line than a super sharp pencil. A mechanical pencil might be the most consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Samski360
Regardless, if everyone gets hung up on over thinking a (+/-) .1mm tolerance, you'll never get there AND then there's the drilling and tapping......
That's why I am adding the two rulers so you can quickly and accurately double check your marks relative to the edges without dicking around with calipers. I consider the scribed lines as giving me a 'target range' and the edge to center ruler as the final measuring step.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...1&d=1577193435 https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...1&d=1577193446 https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...1&d=1577193457
So, with that in mind, I am in the middle of a run with the center hole at 5/16" to allow for more versatility for the tool to also help with tapping. A mechanical pencil, pen or felt tipped pen can work at 5/16". A pencil will need tape for a tighter fit.
Go back to the smaller hole or go with the 5/16" hole?
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...1&d=1577193425
Or:
Attachment 307706
Terry,
A Lego version with a laser line projection would be tits.
If you added a Lego Batman to the top as an option, I think it would forever settle the argument on which is the best way to find the center of a ski.
Attachment 307709
I am using bamboo shishkabob skewers and glue to plug holes. I couldn't cut off the excess with a carpet knife so I used a Dremel wheel and sort of banged up the ski. It's old not a big deal. But what's a better way to cut off excess wood after plugging?
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A simple pocket planer is awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by jhyatt
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Some just use nippers but they tend to crush the dowels and leave a point. For a nice clean cut use a woodworkers pull saw like this. If you put a piece of painters tape on the backside of the saw face, you will take away any chance of marring the ski surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by jhyatt
https://www.shelllumber.com/stanley-...-dbl-edge.html
BTW, I do have a few SkiScribe v1.0's available for guinea pigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Samski360
Here's the laser at work. Fun toy....I mean tool.:wink:
I was thinking a Lego Wonder Woman would be the call considering this crowd, but the Lego version isn't very flattering. :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Alpinord - Good point I’m not needing the center line being perfect, and I like the idea of having the ruler on the tool to measure a tolerance range. Looking forward to seeing the final product!
The rulers can be used between calipers placed on edge, also, like you can with the Centering Sticker:Quote:
Originally Posted by Samski360
Same concept but cheaper - coping saw.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/t...MaAtAeEALw_wcB
I use a retractable razor scraper to cut filler stumps
Attachment 307724
I use a dremel with a cut off wheel then epoxy over the exposed wood.
Dude. Thank you, that’s a great idea! I was holding the thing with one hand and using a caliper with the other, but I’m gonna mark a template centering scale on there right now. Rad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ripvanwinter
Easiest way to find a center imo is get a nice squared block of wood and a good metal ruler.
Tape down template roughly centered on top sheet (one piece of tape at front of paper, one at back). Put block up against the ski edge, and measure from the block to the center line of the template (at the front toe holes) with a ruler. Measure from other side of ski. Lift up front piece of tape and adjust side to side. Tape down. Repeat til distance on each side is the same to the center line of the template.
Repeat process for heel. Takes a couple minutes max, finds center line relative to the ski base/edges rather than top sheet/sidewalls and is very accurate
Attachment 307734
Easy peasy. One of these days I’ll make a database of public templates from the cad drawings I’ve made for myself- tend to prefer them over most of the paper templates available because the thin lines make it easier to precisely alone the Heel and toe patters together so their center lines align. And I check/include the actual bsl range the mount will accommodate