You need a rear international standard to post mount adaptor for whatever size shimano rotor you have. If you have a 160 rotor, you need a +20, if you have a 180 rotor you need a +40.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Printable View
You need a rear international standard to post mount adaptor for whatever size shimano rotor you have. If you have a 160 rotor, you need a +20, if you have a 180 rotor you need a +40.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
SM-MA-R160-P/S
Or
SM-MA-R180-P/S
Or
SM-MA-R203-P/S
MA is Mount, R is Rear, 180 is your rotor size, P is caliper post mount, S is frame International Standard.
OK, so there is a way without the adaptors, I have used this setup for years to no ill effects. Just gotta make sure those bolts are tight.
V-brake nesting washers, if you are wondering.
The fact that they are not nesting perfectly has been absolutely irrelevant.
Ugly, but works.
Attachment 356119
Thank you guys! [emoji106][emoji481]
OR spend $11 at your LBS?Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
How expensive can dentistry really be? [/S]
The shimano ones are 100% sold out in QBP, I just tried ordering one to replace that mess :FIREdevil
(However, the washer solution is 20 grams lighter! )
But the "lots of washers" solution won't work for his I.S. mount. Needs an adaptor in there somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I have a bunch of IS adapters. Hit me up
How is IS still a thing?
It's not entirely clear in the post but he may have an IS adapter for a smaller rotor already. Stack of washers would work in that case.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I think it's easier (cheaper) to manufacture on a frame. Forks are cast, so they went post mount earlier. At this point, most companies have figured out how to do post mounts on a frame, but I'm sure plenty of smaller manufacturers are still doing it the easier way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Why did bike companies move away from IS mounts? I liked them more than post mount - if you happen to strip the threads, all the threads are in the cheap and easily replaceable adapter, not in the frame or fork.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
I've never stripped a thread on a brake mount, so maybe this isn't really an issue.
I've had a few frames that do PM, but with barrel nuts for the threads so they're replaceable. Best of both worlds.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I've, seen that too. I like that design.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Yes it will. I run an 8" rotor on an adapter for a 7" rotor. One set of nesting washers go under the caliper. It's on a 2004 Rocky Mountain Slayer, been that way since it was about 2 months old.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Thanks. Checked those out. While there is a lot to like about them it looks like $600 more than the Ibis. I do like buying US made but that might be a bit too large if a premium. Rest of the bike is imported and I'm OK with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
... so you have an adaptor in there somewhere. Like I said.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver
IS mounts are stupid.
That is all.
I've done some embarrassingly stupid things wrenching on bikes, but stripping out a brake mount is not one of them. They do not need to be that tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
The frame is a 2016. I'm setting this bike up to be my CC bike :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
PSA
Manitou Circus Expert, 1 1/8 Straight Steerer, 20mm axle, 26in wheel, on sale at Wiggle $238
this didnt seem worthy of its own thread so figured throw in here in case anyone knows of someone looking for this rare gem
https://www.wiggle.com/manitou-circus-expert-forks-20mm
dj fork with straight steerer and 26in wheels, would make a good replacement for old mtb trying to get back up and running or a grom build
can swap to lighter spring if needed, easy to tune damper, very good fork, i have 2 of these myself
Starting to accumulate bits for a Spring bike build, grabbing Shimano 12sp stuff here and there. Any reason to not use a Shimano cassette?
Saw some chatter a while back in this thread about the Garbaruk stuff, I'm going for a new wheelset so getting microspline is not an issue.
My default move is typically an XT cassette
Question about generic boost adapters/spacers (like those produced by Problem Solvers or available thru ebay from someone with a machine shop, etc). They would be put to use on a Hunt hub, which I believe is a rebranded Novatec.
My understanding is that they more or less work fine, but because they are not replacing the endcaps the way the Wolftooth/MRP kits do, they are a pain in the ass when removing/installing wheels.
Is there any reason using a couple drops of superglue or a wrap of electrical tape to adhere the spacers to the original endcaps wouldn't solve that problem? I can't recall anyone mentioning that. Am I under or overthinking this?
I have a generic boost adapter kit on Mrs C's bike, from ebay IIRC: bolt on rotor spacer with longer rotor bolts, and two 5mm spacers that go between the fork dropouts and the hub. The 5mm hub spacers are fiddly to get in place when installing the wheel. I tried using some weak glue, but it didn't hold - I didn't try superglue or tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by radam
Once the wheel is installed, everything works fine, no issues over the course of a season and a half now.
That's basically correct, but it's not that hard and unless you're taking your wheel on and off all the time (e.g. using a fork mount rack) I wouldn't worry about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by radam
If you're not doing a lot of wheel removal, a dab of grease to stick the spacers to the hub works pretty well. Obviously not permanent and you still need to be careful but it only needs to last long enough to get the wheel installed.