Anyone else get some today...?
Quads in tiny surf and very big surf. Thrusters in performance surf. The quad in big surf is because it has less drag and better hold on steep faces. Think of where that second fin is placed. With a thruster you need to draw a more vertical line or you lose that back fin. In small, weak surf, the less drag feature of the quad allows you to generate speed easier. When you are in the chest to DOH range the thruster is a higher performer. My big boards are thrusters, but if they ever get replaced, I'd probably go quad. Not really smacking or floating any twenty foot lips. Of course there is a lot that depends on template, volume and surfer preference.
Surf has been pretty damn fun since Friday. Today was a good bit smaller with surf just a few feet OH. Felt fun and playful after the last few days. Saturday I enjoyed a deep water reef with the surf running 8-12', with a few bigger rogue sets up to about 15'. Moved to a ledge on Sunday and holy shit was that thing heavy. Some of the heaviest stuff I've surfed in years. A bit smaller than Saturday, but felt like it had a ton more power. Got in two short sessions there Monday, and it was still pumping. Tonight, like I said, it dropped, but was still plenty of fun. Glassy conditions each day. Tomorrow looks good as well. Another moderate swell arrives Thursday.
It was really nice to get that ledge breaking like it was Sun/Mon. I have these memories of that wave being one hell of a slab, but recently I've been getting it in more fun conditions. Either shorter period, shorter height, higher tide, or some combination. Still been plenty of fun, and juicy, but not kick your ass, roll you, punch you, and spit you out kind if juicy. It was those days. My body is beat from every mistake I made. Otoh, I got so many sick waves. So stoked right now. Been enjoying the 6.6 each of the days. Super versatile from head high to DOH plus.
Blowing off shore tomorrow morning. Hope to conditions hold.