There are some hacks out there to modify pull ratios if you want to do some deep web research.
This has some details about the numbers, I’ll try and find some tips.
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-...compatibility/
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There are some hacks out there to modify pull ratios if you want to do some deep web research.
This has some details about the numbers, I’ll try and find some tips.
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-...compatibility/
Damn! Not gonna fuck with it, I'll just have to wait for the new derailleur to show up.
you could go SS ... ]just leave it in one gear
So tried this and what I found is that the first few cycles when I compress the shock are noisy like you can hear the oil cycling through it, then it quiets down. Seems noisiest after sitting for a while. I have a fresh seal kit I could put on it, but can’t imagine that would do anything. I think I’ll continue to ride it and see if the performance gets noticeably poor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
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herp derp. Totally forgot about road/mountain derailleur/shifter combo.
I realize it's just a temp solution, but if you wanted something more permanent, you could run one of these:
http://www.jtekengineering.com/resou...compatibility/
I'm running an 8a to use a right handed GRX shifter with an XT rear derailleur.
Wolftooth also makes something for shimano conversions, but if you're using SRAM you might be out of luck.
A trick from Darren at Push is to rotate your bike backwards before your ride (rotate on rear wheel past vertical) for a few seconds so that the oil in the bottom of the fork and shock drains towards the seals and lubricates them.Quote:
Originally Posted by hick
You track down your creak? I'm dealing with the same thing essentially, but on a full suspension. Have checked all the same things, plus swapped derailleurs and have also checked some (but not all) frame pivots. Checking the rest is next, as is inspect for cracks but. Creak is under pedaling, does not get loud relative to power put down. Sometimes I sweat soft pedaling makes the creak louder. If I get my weight way over the front end of the bike and pedal, it is slightly quieter. Very confused.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Nope. Been busy and haven't gotten around to the derailleur hanger suggestion yet. The bike uses modular dropouts so that one is plausible. If that doesn't work out I'll try reinstalling the fork, because at that point why not? If that fails I'm at a loss. Trying to avoid the LBS for multiple reasons right now but it may come to that.
Check the chainring, make sure the bolts are tight.
Idiot Status: Confirmed
I could swear the noise was coming from the BB or cranks, so I took one more look around the chainring. That led to realizing that the off-brand chainring I bought had a little too much material on the tabs and thus didn't clear the crank tabs and was not sitting flush. The chainring was not obviously misaligned since I had dutifully tightened the bolts very evenly, so all four contacts were equally uneven/non-flush. I pulled the chainring, filed off a couple mm's of 7075 from all four points on the ring, reinstalled and it's all good.
I can't believe I didn't notice this when I put it on the first time. It was just about the last part that went on the bike so I guess I was anxious to slap it on and get the RD tuned up.
I've taken cranksets off, taken out threaded BB's, cleaned everything and re-assembled, only to find that my chainring bolts worked their way loose...
Oh, if I only had a list of the WAY dumber things I have missed...it’s like a 40 year long list.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Apparently just letting my bike sit for a couple days made my creak go away. But it also went away temporarily (for about a mile) after all the other times I've tried to get rid of it. Can't decide if I should ride it without actually checking anything else, try to inspect things, or just ride another bike tomorrow so I know I won't have to deal with it.
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Nevermind. It came back after a mile of pedaling. BUT I am 99.99% sure now it is coming from where my derailleur attaches to the hanger. Sram gx 11 speed, guerilla gravity aluminum smash. Tried cleaning it super well, that did nothing. Tried greasing, nothing. Happens with either of the sram derailleurs I have. Haven't tested a Shimano one yet. Can make it creak by pedaling (any level of power, even in the stand) and also just by hand flexing basically any part of the derailleur. Also tried to confirm its not the hanger/frame interface by attaching an alignment tool and moving it slightly.
Will order a new hanger (which I should have anyways) but what can I try in the meantime?
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we had a bike a garden variety HT come in that clicked/ made a noise
another store had not been able to fix it, 3 people in my shop worked on it, changed some parts yada fucking yada
but nobody touched the back wheel cuz it seemed to be coming from the BB area,
the last guy figured out the rear QR was about half loose, JUST the right amount that ever so often when peddling the wheel would shift in the frame and make the noise
so there was nothing wrong at all ... just a loose QR
Had one of these mystery clicks too. Pulled cranks and BB three times with no fix. Turned out to be loose cassette lock ring.
Got a buddy selling the brand new X2 off his Ripmo if you're interestedQuote:
Originally Posted by hick
Question about the 9120/8120 XT and XTR brakes...
On shimano site under 8120 (XT) it says they have a set of pads without fins that will work:
Pad_Option
D03S Resin (w/o fin), D02S Metal (w/o fin)
Pad_Standard
N03A Resin (w/ fin), N04C Metal (w/ fin)
On the 9120 (XTR) it lists only a pad standard with no finless option:
N03A Resin (w/ fin), N04C Metal (w/ fin)
So they both use the same standard shape pad, which makes sense the bodies look identical, but any reason the finless optional ones wouldn’t also work in the XTR? The finned ones are rattly as shit.
Man, I’d love to but fucking covid got in my wallet, so no new shock for me. Stuck waiting 3-4 weeks while Fox does a warranty rebuild on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
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Update for the archives: seems to fit/work for now!Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
The resin ones are kinda shit, IME.
Had a creak in my rear wheel that I swore was the spokes. I’m a wheel jong so I went in armed with the Internet. Just about to start tweaking spokes then noticed that the rear wheel was wobbling from the axle. Tightened up the preload nut on the hub and the wobble is gone...I probably tightened too much but we’ll see once I have the chance to ride it. Hope the noise is gone I really don’t want to start turning spokes.
99% sure XT pads are interchangable with XTR.
Building a Chromag Stylus... has a port for internal routing of a dropper post, do you simply drill the rubber grommet the same diameter of the cable? Anything special or techincal about it? being steel i'm a little more concerned about moisture/debris getting in there so want it to be fairly tight #thatswhathesaid
There isn't a hole in the grommet already? It should be a tight fit, just shove it in there ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Moving on--Anyone know where I can buy M2x2mm set screws? I need a few to fix my kid's RC car and the best option I've found so far is this https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a16022...KMA/ref=sr_1_3 but the estimated delivery date is June 24-July 16. Do LBSs typically have these lying around?
Nope, no hole at all. just a rubber piece covering it completely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
If you're going to drill that plug, remove it from the frame first!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Did you buy it new? If so, I'm sure it did, or was supposed to, come with different grommets with holes. Attempting to drill actual holes in soft rubber is an exercise in futility.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Call Cromag for the right grommets.
HAHA... done and done... but yes i can see that being an issue...Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Used... yah i'll call chromag and see what they say.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Bike pedal pins are usually M4.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Ace Hardware should have the size you need. I recently needed set screws for a few different jobs and Ace had all the sizes I needed. On the third trip for a single set screw I just ended up buying 4 of each size they had in stock, just to have on hand in my garage hardware.
The frame hole should be just big enough to pass the cable (no grommet). The grommet is only to seal the hole in frame if you dont run a cable though there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
They make 2 versions of that plug - one that's solid and one that has a hole in it for a dropper cable. The dropper cable version looks like what's shown below.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
My 2015 Commencal Meta AM used the exact same plugs as Chromag, so you could check with them if getting plugs is easier than getting them from Chromag.
You could run it without the plug, but I think it would make it easy for water to get into the frame. Drilling a hole in bb shell is not a bad idea (the 2 Rootdown frames I've had didn't come with the hole), because a bit of water is going to get in there even if you do have the correct plug, which can seize your bb bearings.
Attachment 327460
so i took the plug out.... it obviously ripped into 2 pieces... i've super glued it back together, drilled it out while off the bike and i'm currently manhandling it back into place....ugh.... i'm gonna order a new one but this should work for now. My fork is still at Rockshox and i'm waiting on some other parts so it won't matter for now.
They're pretty tough to get in and out. Using a flathead screwdriver to gently pry or push the plug is the best I could come up with, but they do tear after a couple of removals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
Thats a new routing on Chromags. Not the same type of dropper hole I have on my Surfas.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
What the shit happened to my front brake-
XTR 9120
I sort of know/think the answer is to do a proper bleed at the caliper but just in case I’m missing something
this was the order of events
Changing to finless pads
removed the old,
Put in new
Had some rotor rub
Did the caliper alignment a handful of times
Went outside to the driveway, bedded them in, felt great,
Came back inside and still had rotor rub so went for some tire lever splitting, removed the pads, got everything worked out with pistons, did the caliper alignment a few more times
Then suddenly - lever was mostly to the bar and felt like crap.
Bled at the lever, not much improvement, didn’t see many bubbles escape.
Still had a touch of rotor rub so figured I’d come back to the lever feel situation
Finally got the rotor sorted. tried flicking the cable and coaxing air up, bled again at the lever. Nada.
If I take the reach adjustment and push it way out away from the bar, it’s fine-ish. Rideable, but not ideal.
As soon as I adjust the reach where the lever gets about halfway to the bar or more, feels like shit again- so that’s the part I don’t totally understand the physics of, if it’s just air, why does moving the lever out all the way help, and lastly- is it definitely just air in caliper somewhere, or could I have screwed something else?
Ps: don’t think it’s the typical shimano wandering bite, I know what that feels like and that, to me, is more intermittent in the course of a single DH section, this is just a consistent weirdness.
You have air in the system. Its very common to get an air bubble trapped in the caliper. And once you tried to spread the pads after the bleed, it forced the bubble into the system. This is why I like to remove the caliper and dandle it a straight line from the lever.
Attachment 327489
Pads removed, Bleed Block in.
Bleed with funnel on lever and gravity bottle on the caliper. (straight line dangle with the caliper to the lever if possible)
Close caliper bleed port, and re-install pads, use pad spreader while the funnel is still in, pump the lever, close up the system.
Cheers, thanks man kind of figured, what’s the theory behind why the lever functions a little bit with it moved way away from the bar but not close in?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs