Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

In two separate Subaru axle replacements, I had both generic axles shit the bed. One in under 5K mikes. OEM is a must.

I did split boots because I got tired of failures with non-OEM axles and I was fresh out of college with minimal tools and lying on ice and snow in the freezing cold. Axle replacement is straightforward, but I’m not sure I’d call it easy. I had a breaker bar with a couple of feet of pipe and still couldn’t break the axle nut.

I had a torn boot and an already compromised CV joint. I put a split boot on it with some quality grease and got another 40-50k out of the axle. Did another one preemptively and forgot about it. Sold the car with it still on.

Subie Reman axles are 200 shipped from dealers online if you have cash and want to go the easy route. With subie core (green cups) you get some of that back. They won't give you core $ for aftermarket axles.

Inner boot can be changed without removing axle nut. You still have to remove strut mount bolts to pull it back far enough to separate it and get a new boot on.

Replace the boot. Agree. Do not buy aftermarket. They are junk.

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

In two separate Subaru axle replacements, I had both generic axles shit the bed. One in under 5K mikes. OEM is a must.

I did split boots because I got tired of failures with non-OEM axles and I was fresh out of college with minimal tools and lying on ice and snow in the freezing cold. Axle replacement is straightforward, but I’m not sure I’d call it easy. I had a breaker bar with a couple of feet of pipe and still couldn’t break the axle nut.

I had a torn boot and an already compromised CV joint. I put a split boot on it with some quality grease and got another 40-50k out of the axle. Did another one preemptively and forgot about it. Sold the car with it still on.

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Fwiw I always use my Milwaukee electric impact on axle nuts. Stubborn nuts seem to spin right off. Trying to break shit loose in the freezing cold with limited tools can make things tough for sure. Axles can get stuck in knuckles also rarely...but most of the usual Subaru gotchas aren't around for the axles.

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If you have a harbor freight nearby, the 1/2 inch corded impact is worth the 40 bucks or so. It's saved me so many times.

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^^Yeah I gotta go get one of those. There are so many times I've needed one and fought my way through whatever it was because a 'good' impact wrench was expensive. With some tools I've come to realize that sufficient is what I really need and high torque cordless or air is more than that and unnecessary.

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Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys

If you have a harbor freight nearby, the 1/2 inch corded impact is worth the 40 bucks or so. It's saved me so many times.

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I agree. I use the shit out of mine but One proviso though, it is farging huge, about 18 inches from socket to the back of it. Really limits where you use it.

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Originally Posted by Obstruction

I agree. I use the shit out of mine but One proviso though, it is farging huge, about 18 inches from socket to the back of it. Really limits where you use it.

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I had a harbor freight one. Burned it up after some good use and abuse. Figured I would get something better since I used it so much so moved on to the Milwaukee which is a sweet little tool. HF one is excellent for starter shadetree mechanics.

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I splurged and bought the 3/8" m12 Milwaukee impact. That little tool is incredible. I use it for practically everything and pull out the 1/2 inch hf when I need to hit a bigger bolt. The Milwaukee was actually pretty reasonably priced at 150 for the tool, case, charger, and two batteries.

I’ve got a compressor and air tools now, courtesy of the old man who gave up wrenching. Makes a world of difference. No Subaru anymore. Besides oil changes and brakes, I’m hoping to avoid any wrenching on the DDs for a while.

I’ve got an itch to find something older and interesting and “restore” it with the boy. I pass an immobile ‘85 4Runner on a particular bike ride. Been sitting for almost 4 years, and is deteriorating. I want to put a note on the windshield and offer to rescue it.

Bags-if you do the 4Runner. Please make this happen. I just saw it last week in town.

The Ironman would be proud.

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

I’ve got a compressor and air tools now, courtesy of the old man who gave up wrenching. Makes a world of difference. No Subaru anymore. Besides oil changes and brakes, I’m hoping to avoid any wrenching on the DDs for a while.

I’ve got an itch to find something older and interesting and “restore” it with the boy. I pass an immobile ‘85 4Runner on a particular bike ride. Been sitting for almost 4 years, and is deteriorating. I want to put a note on the windshield and offer to rescue it.

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Is it IFS or solid front?

An 85 is a solid front. Also the only year with the removable top and 22re. They're fairly rare.

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You can see the leaf springs in that one. Solid axle. Looks amazing! I love it!

Yep, solid front.

Anyone with VW/Audi 2.0T TSI experience? Friend is looking at a 2015 off lease. Has 20k miles. Service history shows the radiator, radiator fan controller, water pump, camshaft, timing chain tensioner seal, and drive belts have all been replaced or repaired. Again, 20k miles. Google says these engines have a few problems. Is this normal? I'm about to recommend something more reliable like a turbo rotary.

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Originally Posted by Mazderati

Anyone with VW/Audi 2.0T TSI experience? Friend is looking at a 2015 off lease. Has 20k miles. Service history shows the radiator, radiator fan controller, water pump, camshaft, timing chain tensioner seal, and drive belts have all been replaced or repaired. Again, 20k miles. Google says these engines have a few problems. Is this normal? I'm about to recommend something more reliable like a turbo rotary.

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Sounds like a lemon. That's a lot of repairs for 20k imho.

My Audi sure wasn't cheap.

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Q for the mechanics: can a failing wheel bearing make an intermittent whirring sound at lower speeds?

It's a 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 4WD. No idea when or if the front wheel bearings have been replaced previously. Front wheel bearings are unit hub assemblies.

Whirring noise is apparent during acceleration, coasting, and deceleration, mostly around 15 to 30 mph. No change in sound if accelerating, decelerating, in neutral, in 4WD vs 2WD, or in loading up one side or the other by cornering hard. Sound is not grinding or howling. Sound is audible in cab while driving, seems to be coming from front end or underneath the front of the cab; does not appear to be coming from rear end. Can't locate the sound side-to-side by driving with windows down.

Jacked up the front end and attempted to wiggle the wheel to feel for play. Passenger side has a tiny bit of play up/down. Driver side does not. Both sides have horizontal left/right play, but I think that's due to sloppy steering parts that I haven't replaced yet (idler arm in particular).

Rear driveshaft U joints and carrier bearing were replaced within last 15K miles. No idea on age of front driveshaft U joints, but the driveshaft spins freely by hand (have not removed it to feel for U joint notchiness).

Front differential leaks at the driver side axle shaft. I replaced the front diff fluid, nothing unusual such as chunks of metal, just usual paste on the magnetic drain plug. Fluid may have been a bit low, but quite a bit drained out, so I don't think I killed any bearings by running it low. It is a possibility though.

Checked transfer case; it's full.

Any ideas on the sound? The minor up/down play in the passenger wheel (hub) is the only thing I can think of. The transfer case in this truck is one of the many that GM had that were subject to pump rub failure, but AFAIK that causes the case to lose oil and run dry; whirring noises were not something I could find anything about regarding the t-case.

I had a 2.0 turbo audi for 6 months. No more audi for me.

It's a lost cause. Going to pick it up this weekend.

Look at the fucking seat control box underneath a Porsche 928 S4 seat. What the fuck? Could they try to make it more complicated?
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I cleaned up a bunch of the solder joints.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Any ideas on the sound?

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Did you try spinning the wheels while raised to reproduce the sound?

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Originally Posted by Mazderati

Did you try spinning the wheels while raised to reproduce the sound?

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Yes, can't reproduce by hand. Have not yet put the whole truck up on jack stands and run in 2/4wd to test. The whirring is intermittent, so not sure if I'll even hear it doing that.

My recent craigslist purchase, a 2005 ford escape (aka "the red one"), has some issues, naturally. These issues are centered around the rear differential. The shop will change fluids and replace seals or something and maybe the issues can further be kept in check by replacing just one part rather than the whole thing, but maybe not. Maybe it will also hold together as is long enough for me not to care.

The quote I have been given for "everything that technically would benefit from fixing" is something like 3k, the majority of that being parts. I bought the car for 4500. That is a quote from a dealership, for original parts. Is this something that could be done cheaper with non-original parts by someone who enjoys adventures under the hood, or not really?

The shop mechanic seems to think it is a nice car otherwise and recommended getting the rebuild done before he saw the quote on the parts.

I am wondering if it is worth putting some effort into finding a place that might do the major repair with cheaper parts or on the side or something and if that could realistically happen in this case.

Otherwise I'll call it good with the minor servicing and see what happens/ eventually find something else.

Suggestions?

My opinion, but if you're buying a 5k car off Craigslist just change the fluids and run it until you can't. Don't take a car like that to a dealership. They'll take you for a ride.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by klar

My recent craigslist purchase, a 2005 ford escape (aka "the red one"), has some issues, naturally. These issues are centered around the rear differential. The shop will change fluids and replace seals or something and maybe the issues can further be kept in check by replacing just one part rather than the whole thing, but maybe not. Maybe it will also hold together as is long enough for me not to care.

The quote I have been given for "everything that technically would benefit from fixing" is something like 3k, the majority of that being parts. I bought the car for 4500. That is a quote from a dealership, for original parts. Is this something that could be done cheaper with non-original parts by someone who enjoys adventures under the hood, or not really?

The shop mechanic seems to think it is a nice car otherwise and recommended getting the rebuild done before he saw the quote on the parts.

I am wondering if it is worth putting some effort into finding a place that might do the major repair with cheaper parts or on the side or something and if that could realistically happen in this case.

Otherwise I'll call it good with the minor servicing and see what happens/ eventually find something else.

Suggestions?

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You might look for a rear end shop and compare. Lot of places specialize and wholesale out stuff like this to specialty shops.

No idea what availability is like in AK, but a complete rear end in good shape could probably be found from a junk yard for less than $1k in the contiguous US. And maybe take less time to replace.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mazderati

Anyone with VW/Audi 2.0T TSI experience? Friend is looking at a 2015 off lease. Has 20k miles. Service history shows the radiator, radiator fan controller, water pump, camshaft, timing chain tensioner seal, and drive belts have all been replaced or repaired. Again, 20k miles. Google says these engines have a few problems. Is this normal? I'm about to recommend something more reliable like a turbo rotary.

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I have a mk7 golf r with the ea888. Manufacture date is 3/16. Currently at 38k - so far, so good. Lots of headroom on these... Throw on a hp fuel pump, downpipe, and a few other bits and you can get to ~450bhp. Currently running mine at ~330bhp and it's quick. Haldex and xds+ programming can now be done via obd2. Steering could be a little more communicative, but it"s a great car. Have gotten a little bored with it after 18 months, but haven't found anything I'd rather have for a daily driver. Thinking about picking this up for S&G:

http://rocky-mountain-eurosport.ebiz...-15780798.html

http://2-photos7.motorcar.com/used-1...798-1-1024.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by klar

My recent craigslist purchase, a 2005 ford escape (aka "the red one"), has some issues, naturally. These issues are centered around the rear differential. The shop will change fluids and replace seals or something and maybe the issues can further be kept in check by replacing just one part rather than the whole thing, but maybe not. Maybe it will also hold together as is long enough for me not to care.

The quote I have been given for "everything that technically would benefit from fixing" is something like 3k, the majority of that being parts. I bought the car for 4500. That is a quote from a dealership, for original parts. Is this something that could be done cheaper with non-original parts by someone who enjoys adventures under the hood, or not really?

The shop mechanic seems to think it is a nice car otherwise and recommended getting the rebuild done before he saw the quote on the parts.

I am wondering if it is worth putting some effort into finding a place that might do the major repair with cheaper parts or on the side or something and if that could realistically happen in this case.

Otherwise I'll call it good with the minor servicing and see what happens/ eventually find something else.

Suggestions?

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A friend of mine offered her 2005 Escape up for free on facebook because she got a quote from their shop to replace the transfer case (the part that connects the transmission to the rear axle) and rear differential for $3500, which was about the blue book cost to sell it here. I picked it up from her. The transfer case and differential went bad because the tires were never rotated and they were all different sizes. I picked up a transfer case at a dismantler for $150, and some seals and parts for another $200 and installed it myself. New tires were another $1000. I haven't changed the rear differential. It makes a whining sound, but it seems to drive ok for the past 15,000 miles. Maybe change the fluids, check that the tires are the same size and see how it goes. I wouldn't jump right into repairs unless its really bad.

Thanks all, that is fairly encouraging.

It seems to be driving just fine. There is definitely a sound. Apparently there are metal flakes in the fluid so some part probably is pretty fucked. Tires have been rotated and seem ok.

Having never had a car with a rear differential, what are the symptoms of this failing and would it be a gradual thing or more like a "car suddenly not drivable at all anymore" situation?

If it fails and locks up, you will know it...
My approach would be along mazderatis lines. Look for a used rear end. There are used parts places online that could send you what you need, proba ly for a few hundred bucks.

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Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys

An 85 is a solid front. Also the only year with the removable top and 22re. They're fairly rare.

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Thanks. That's what I thought until the internet told me that Toyota had both solid axle and ifs at that time on 4runners. My mechanic runs 2 of that year.


Klar, good luck!

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Yes, can't reproduce by hand. Have not yet put the whole truck up on jack stands and run in 2/4wd to test. The whirring is intermittent, so not sure if I'll even hear it doing that.

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Is the sound only when engine is cold?

Noticed something similar on land cruiser, but only when it's been cold (I can't remember hearing in the last few winters). The internets tells me it's typical transfer case sound for the truck when it's warming up on a cold day.

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Is the sound only when engine is cold?

Noticed something similar on land cruiser, but only when it's been cold (I can't remember hearing in the last few winters). The internets tells me it's typical transfer case sound for the truck when it's warming up on a cold day.

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No, not consistently. It did make the loudest whirring sounds when coldish - truck is parked outside, started up one morning and drove about 4 miles with the sound increasing louder, before I turned around and went back home out of concern that something was going to fail imminently.

That was the morning after I had hosed off the underside to clean off road salt. I wonder if it was ice buildup. That would explain the intermittent nature of it all - sometimes there's more ice and frozen slop, sometimes nothing at all.

For the last year only had to do this and drive. Need a brake flush though.Attachment 230565

Cleaning up the intake manifold before installation on the 928. Also got my hardware re plated so it'll look purdy.

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Also yanked out the old ground cables on the 944 Turbo. I made new ones with stuff from an electronics supply company. Milspec terminal, soldered lugs, and 1awg welding cable. No fucking around with ground. I got the intake manifold powder coated... "while I was in there."

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More Porsche goodies. The rest of my 928 parts are back from the powder coater and got the first timing chain tensioner pad installed.
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Headway on the 928. Both valve covers on. Timing chain tensioner pads replaced, oil filler neck and gasket in. Tomorrow I will try to get the intake manifold in. Overly optimistic thinking I may get her going tomorrow, but hopefully this week. Still gotta do the fuel filter and change the oil. Guess I should check if it even needs an oil change... Garage pic for fun.

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Question for the mechanic folks - can I put 215 55 R16 tires on a car that uses 205 60 R16? We have a set of mounted snow tires (215 55 R16) on a car that was just sent down to southern TX (for some reason the new owner didn't want the winter tires). Wife has a new Kia Niro (don't judge..) and we wondering if the winters could be used on hers.

When she suggested it I thought the obvious answer was no, but after reading online I see it's not too uncommon to use slightly differing sizes of tires.

Besides the odometer being slightly off, are there any serious implications to doing this?

You will be fine.