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Yeah, I measured it all out last night.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_pretzel
I normally ski P18s with the 5mm shim Look sends them with, so this would get me very close to that. If I'm the only dingus who wants to try this, that's cool, but I do know what I want, personally.
Cool, just wanted to give you a heads up!Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
This CAST video hit my YouTube feed yesterday. Very cool documentation of how they install inserts in alpine boots.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufzf...ature=youtu.be
...Thom
What’s the consensus on the release consistency with WTR soles and AFD? Also the shop tech that mounted my bindings recommended not using inserts for the heels and instead having multiple sets of base plates/ brake assemblies. Anyone else go this route? How did you get your hands on the extra parts?
I had this same question with the additional problem of my boots not having a smooth surface for contact with the AFD and emailed CAST, they responded:Quote:
Originally Posted by tomjensen
In a later email he told me the solution is usually to just turn your DIN down a bit more.Quote:
We make our WTR AFD to accommodate the height and thickness of the ISO 9523 soles. It definitely works better with the smooth surface for release. On that note we have tested and passed many boots with that ISO 9523 sole. The thing that changes is how sticky that rubber is. Some boots have a hard rubber that still releases well and some have a tacky rubber that needs to adjust the release tension to release properly. We always recommend having your local shop test your bindings to get that correct release setting.
Ok thanks. I’m thinking I’ll start one setting lower for the toe releaseQuote:
Originally Posted by tdpdx
WTR should be no issue at all. The contact is plastic to plastic.
It's the rubber sole on a 9523 boot that adds friction.
One additional concern I'd have with a rubber 9523 sole is rocks getting jammed between the rubber lugs and digging into the AFD.
... Thom
That would make sense if you have skis that require different brake sizes. I would much rather have a couple of heels (as I do) and swap the whole thing if I needed. Its faster than the left-right-left-right pita process of exchanging the dildo, plus the fact you need to set the forward pressure again. I buy my heel assemblies from @Spyderjon .Quote:
Originally Posted by tomjensen
Whoops, I misread tomjensen's concern. I have boots with rubber 9523 soles and my concern was with release from the WTR AFD plate which is what CAST recommended for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
Ditto on the rock bit, I hadn't though of that, one more thing to check before clicking in.
I'm planning on taking my setup to a shop to get release tested after I get everything mounted.
Yup ... in general, 9523 and WTR are close in shape, from the perspective of the height between AFD surface (the ball of the foot in the case of 9523) and the lip of the toe piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by tdpdx
There is a range for 9523 boots however, and you might find yourself having to grind off a bit of sole to get into "compliance".
For example, I recall some people reporting a tight fit with the previous generation of Maestrales and some MNC bindings (Wardens). I had no problem with my Mango Maestrales and my Wardens, but I was at max height on the toe.
... Thom
Did you tell him you post on TGR ?Quote:
Originally Posted by tdpdx
Good to know, my boots are Salomon QST 130 pros. The soles are removable, and therefore replaceable, so getting a little grind on is slightly less scary.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
If I'm feeling really adventurous, I was thinking about modding a plastic AFD contact plate into the touring soles. Haven't brain-stormed a good way of actually doing this yet though so I'd likely just end up throwing away the $90 for the replacement touring soles.
I started a mod project to see if I could convert my OG XT 130 Freetours from WTR to an alpine sole. That first year, the Langes didn't have Alpine/ISO 5355 inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by tdpdx
I got wrapped around the axle with the project (made it too complicated) and temporarily shelved it. My only motivation was to use the boots at ski demos, and I decided I didn't need any more excuses to be demoing skis :rolleyes:
.. Thom
I got cast mounted up by a shop today (I know, I just come here for winter and don't bring my tools). Three things caught my eye when I got home and did an inspection:
Toe does not sit flush to the ski
Attachment 358911
Gap between shoulder screw and alpine binder. Without a boot clicked in I can move the toe like a wobbly table.
Attachment 358912
One of the heels isn't even close to flush with the ski.
Attachment 358913
I suspect that things aren't flush because they're sitting on old filled holes, but I don't know, file that shit down? Am I right to be concerned about this mount, or are these not problems?
That's a terrible job. You could bring them back and ask them to fix it for free, or just pull off the bindings and shave down the volcanoes with an exacto blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by DigSki
I like to clamp my binding to the ski to make sure it's flush when I tighten the screws.
Oh I'm definitely bringing them back. They didn't give me back the Pivot pedestals either, so I have to grab those. I can't imagine they won't want to fix that workmanship up, but if not maybe they'll let me use their tools so I can do it...we'll see.Quote:
Originally Posted by FullStop
Would that terrible job have any sort of performance / safety impact or is it purely cosmetic? Things seem pretty solid when I click in on carpet, but that obviously means next to nothing. I really can't imagine how it wouldn't have a performance impact, the binding wiggles...
I imagine having them not fully tightened down would make it quite a bit easier to rip the bindings out. You might have some issues with the tech toes too. But I'm no tech, just a home ski driller, I wouldn't ski them like that myself though.Quote:
Originally Posted by DigSki
Yeah the front toes are probably not fully torqued, the toe tolerance is pretty tight when they are mounted correctly. I wouldn't worry about the rear end of the front plate being up in the air though, as long as everything under the screws is flush.
Sucks the shop let you down, hopefully they make it right!
I wouldn't ski on them until this was sorted out. When a binding isn't flush to the ski, you're inviting trouble.
The question is whether a shop that screwed up so badly in the first place, can be trusted to fix their work.
When I started scrolling, I expected the main question to relate to the toe hole alignment, knowing how precise it has to be.
Then, I got to your last picture, with them not being able to do something so simple as get the heel flush to the ski.
I'd start the dialog off with that, and frankly wouldn't be comfortable unless I could watch the work being done.
... Thom
The AFD not sitting 100% flush is pretty normal, but the rest of that is a mess. Get them to clean up the old volcanoes and torque everything down properly.
Exactly, all my setups have the AFD like that. It is due to the thin plate the binding sits on.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Thanks for the guidance folks. Thinking about the problem more, the wobbly toe does seem pretty dangerous as it does seem like it would make things more likely to rip out. Hopefully they'll fix no questions ask once I show them; if they don't that'll be a huge bummer because I like shopping there.
I've read through this thread and it seems like the binders should take some effort to pull off once unlocked. Is there a value the screws should be torqued to, or just general "it should be snug"? Fine either way, just wanna know so I can talk somewhat intelligently to them.
Shouldn't take much force. They're not going to just fall off when you open the catch, but they slide off pretty easily if the alignment of the shoulder screws is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by DigSki
Just normal binding screw snugness.
Would rossi fks 15's work with a cast toe pedestal ? Same binding as a pivot 15, as i undrerstand
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Think soQuote:
Originally Posted by grinch
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So far so good then. Might have a shot at some reasonably priced fks 15's . Just want to confirm. I have a spare pedestal pair. Ive just been swapping my cast/p18 toes between 2 pairs of skis. Itd be nice to utilize both pedastal pairsQuote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
P15's work on the same cast pedestals as p18 pedestals? There is no difference in cast pedestal types? And they work for both/only p18 and p15?
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To be certain ask Lars and Silas .Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
I still say yes.
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Good plan. Thanks VQuote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
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Probably a long shot, but does anyone have a single current gen toe pedestal spare?
I have the last gen without the hex screw but with all the AFD’s if you’re in a pinchQuote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Looking for a reputable shop to do my mount--even better if you have personal experience with them mounting this exact setup.
I'm in Westchester County, NY, but can also do this in the SLC metro area.
Wait until you get to SLC.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlybb
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they do sell those as a part. Or possible as a pair.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Call CASTQuote:
Originally Posted by Judo Chop!
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Looks like they are in stockQuote:
Originally Posted by Judo Chop!
https://casttouring.com/en-us/produc...pedestal-pair/
Thanks guys. They were out of stock when I posted that, but I'm all set now.
yes but where?Quote:
Originally Posted by skibrd
anybody have any experience w=switching pivot heels to different skis using heel coils on z cast system that way you only need one pair of pivots
You'd want quiver killers, heli coils aren't really designed for regularly swapping. If your skis have different brake widths you should just source a second set of heels though as pivots are a PITA like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lechuga
Two truths there. QK’s for sure and pivot binder heels do not make for an easy transition due to the brake pressure and not being able to strap them or unscrew them to get the heels screwed into the QK’s. Maybe a third truth is you’re better off getting a second set of heels and mounting them both then doing two sets of CAST toe plates and shoulder bolt set up’s.
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