The 300g Touring Binding Thread

Atk mono link toe design has been used for 3 to 4 years already in their race bindings. (Maybe even longer)
Most ATK designs are very proven and tested. Even when it is a new model such as crest it is truly just a Trofeo toe, which is the same design as the race toe with less metal removed to make it cheaper and heavier which has been in use for years, plus the RT heelpiece which is even older with a new brake and adjustment plate

ATK seems to make mostly sensible subtle upgrades every year with the old models still available. Rock solid, no clicking or slop as well.

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Originally Posted by riff

I love my MTN's aside from the crampon clip business, but looking at ATK stuff has me very impressed. Build quality looks tremendous, and 5-10 RV in a package under 300 grams blows my mind. Full metal toe lever also, unlike MTN. It's a good time to be alive and touring.

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I really like the heel riser flaps that cover the heel pins so you can tour and transition without turning the towers. I think the MTN has that as well. Kind of a necessity for me now.

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

There I go ... pondering violating my operating principle of not being a paying beta tester.

[edit] If this fellow (link, below) is right, the single position riser is a touch higher than many medium risers, at 64mm above the ski. I think I could live with that, but the unknown at the moment is the toe pin height above the ski (in order to do an apples to apples comparison of the delta).

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Center of pins seem to sit ~4.75cm above the ski.

Riser height off the ski seems ~.75cm higher than the low riser on the MTN. Definitely closer to the low rise than the high rise.
Toe pins are about 1-2mm higher.

MTN on Lotus 138. Can't wait to get out there and given a go.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1dd4a0c139.jpg

Nice, you will like turn 3

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I meant. You will like them

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I bet the first 2 turns are good too. FYI you can go without that plastic plate under the heel, as long as the skis are thick enough.


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I dropped the plastic plate too, gets me closer to that magic ramp/delta sweet spot.
I felt a little forward last spring.
I might experimentally add a couple mm under the toe as well.

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for those of you with MTN/Backland binders - when mounted on the line, how much fore/aft adjustment is there respectively? The total is 30mm yes, but is it like the Shifts where the majority of the adjustment range is aft?

I am thinking about replacing Tectons on a pair skis with MTNs to save weight, and there is a bit of an overlap issue in the rear. As such I would need to mount the rear binding approx one cm further back and adjust the heel forward, or about two centimeters forward and adjust the heel back. I am just curious which is the better option with the MTN/backland.

The same issue was resolve by going forward with Shifts, so that might be the required medicine here as well.

Thanks in advance for any and all help. :)

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

for those of you with MTN/Backland binders - when mounted on the line, how much fore/aft adjustment is there respectively? The total is 30mm yes, but is it like the Shifts where the majority of the adjustment range is aft?

I am thinking about replacing Tectons on a pair skis with MTNs to save weight, and there is a bit of an overlap issue in the rear. As such I would need to mount the rear binding approx one cm further back and adjust the heel forward, or about two centimeters forward and adjust the heel back. I am just curious which is the better option with the MTN/backland.

The same issue was resolve by going forward with Shifts, so that might be the required medicine here as well.

Thanks in advance for any and all help. :)

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It's in the middle so equal fore/aft. I did the same to avoid a conflict, mounted the heel 5mm forward and adjusted it back. I'll try and get a photo later if it helps

Attachment 298352

I recently remounted mtns into tecton pattern.
I reused the front two holes and did hardwood dowels with epoxy, and predrilled pretty nearby for the rear holes. Gflex epoxy for all holes.
Ymmv!

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thank you both - that was very helpful - TGR delivers yet again :)

It sounds like mounting back and adjusting forward is the way to go then. Will test mount on a piece of wood first, then start drilling into the v werks fekkers ;)

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Originally Posted by riff

I recently remounted mtns into tecton pattern.
I reused the front two holes and did hardwood dowels with epoxy, and predrilled pretty nearby for the rear holes. Gflex epoxy for all holes.
Ymmv!

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Slight threadjack - what made you go from tecton to mtn on those skis? Or did you buy them w holes

I got frustrated with the Tectons a bit; I had a series of troubles going from tour mode to skiing, mostly from snow/ice packing into the fairly complicated heel. I had issues with the ski crampons also. For closer to 50/50 use they'd be fine, but I didn't trust them or want to haul them on longer tours. The tectons were my only tour setup for a bit last year, which coincided with a string of bigger project style tours, so they felt pretty heavy by the end. After a few outings this fall I remembered and went simple. Mtns definitely don't ski as powerfully, but kill it for simple and reliable. So far.
Resort kit is all CAST, touring kit is all mtn; I took out the middle ground. Simplifies decisions at the truck in the morning too.

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Originally Posted by caulfield

I bet the first 2 turns are good too. FYI you can go without that plastic plate under the heel, as long as the skis are thick enough.


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Cool. Thanks for the heads up. I removed the plates. I already wasn't loving the ramp angle of those boots, so that'll help a bit.

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Originally Posted by riff

I got frustrated with the Tectons a bit; I had a series of troubles going from tour mode to skiing, mostly from snow/ice packing into the fairly complicated heel. I had issues with the ski crampons also. For closer to 50/50 use they'd be fine, but I didn't trust them or want to haul them on longer tours. The tectons were my only tour setup for a bit last year, which coincided with a string of bigger project style tours, so they felt pretty heavy by the end. After a few outings this fall I remembered and went simple. Mtns definitely don't ski as powerfully, but kill it for simple and reliable. So far.
Resort kit is all CAST, touring kit is all mtn; I took out the middle ground. Simplifies decisions at the truck in the morning too.

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Have you used crampons with the MTNs yet? What's the deal with them? Someone mentioned them recently and I got the sense that they were inconvenient in some way.

Yup, I brought it up a ways back.
They use regular dynafit style crampons, but salomon supplies a little plastic clip that you pop on the center of the axle to hold it, instead of the clip being built into the binding base. Definitely a hassle. But I prefer the dynafit crampons in general, so It's working out ok, I'm just trying to get more clips from Salomon, because I will drop them eventually.

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without looking at mine, i assume you can't remove the plate with the brakes version

pic added above

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Originally Posted by oetk2

without looking at mine, i assume you can't remove the plate with the brakes version

pic added above

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Yeah, the plate is part of the brake assembly, it looks like, right?

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Originally Posted by oetk2

without looking at mine, i assume you can't remove the plate with the brakes version

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Well you can, but the brakes go with it. It's the same heel on top of either plastic option. Leash time!

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Originally Posted by riff

Yup, I brought it up a ways back.
They use regular dynafit style crampons, but salomon supplies a little plastic clip that you pop on the center of the axle to hold it, instead of the clip being built into the binding base. Definitely a hassle. But I prefer the dynafit crampons in general, so It's working out ok, I'm just trying to get more clips from Salomon, because I will drop them eventually.

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I use ATK crampons and have never bothered with the keeper clip. Maybe I should worry more about lateral play, but so far they've stayed centered.

Consider tying them to your crampons, as shown in the reviews here: https://skimo.co/salomon-mtn-binding

Can anybody tell me what the difference between the Crest and the new RT 10 is? I have both older RT 2.0 (fixed heel, 5mm ramp delta) and Freeraider 12s (elastic heel, with toe adjustment plate for less ramp delta - probably at 6mm-ish now).

Both the Crest and the RT 10 seems to both have an elastic heel, and are lighter than the RT 2.0. Does anybody know what the ramp delta is for these bindings? Moving the brake back to the heel and the inclusion of elasticity in the heel might make them more similar to the Freeraider than the RTs?

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Originally Posted by caulfield

I use ATK crampons and have never bothered with the keeper clip. Maybe I should worry more about lateral play, but so far they've stayed centered.

Consider tying them to your crampons, as shown in the reviews here: https://skimo.co/salomon-mtn-binding

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I use the Plum crampons and I've never used the clip. I don't even know if I could find mine.

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Originally Posted by caulfield

Well you can, but the brakes go with it. It's the same heel on top of either plastic option. Leash time!



I use ATK crampons and have never bothered with the keeper clip. Maybe I should worry more about lateral play, but so far they've stayed centered.

Consider tying them to your crampons, as shown in the reviews here: https://skimo.co/salomon-mtn-binding

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I have them tied on for sure, that cord is taking a beating and will need to be replaced a few times a year.....

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Originally Posted by sf

Can anybody tell me what the difference between the Crest and the new RT 10 is? I have both older RT 2.0 (fixed heel, 5mm ramp delta) and Freeraider 12s (elastic heel, with toe adjustment plate for less ramp delta - probably at 6mm-ish now).

Both the Crest and the RT 10 seems to both have an elastic heel, and are lighter than the RT 2.0. Does anybody know what the ramp delta is for these bindings? Moving the brake back to the heel and the inclusion of elasticity in the heel might make them more similar to the Freeraider than the RTs?

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They are very similar. The RT has three differences

Magnetic heel flappers and uhv on toe, and toe has more material removed to make it lighter

U.H.V.® System (Up-hill Hardness Variator): system that allows to change the up-hill locking hardness of the toe part. It compensates the boot toe insert wear and tear during the years, provides a proper locking strenght for each user and reduces the pressures on the locking mechanism.