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Fwiw Tour Pro 26. I tried a 26 Intuition Luxury old MV liner and it was tight. 26 Luxury LV liner is fineQuote:
Originally Posted by 1000-oaks
Skiing it right now with Tour Wrap and stock liner to complete the long term part of the review. Stock liner is still good 35+ days in and used for touring and inbounds. Tour Wrap is tight
Thinking this was a good plan myself. I have an option on a "free" intuition liner, just not sure which way to go get. Previously used powerwraps in my old Cochise and liked them (I even put up with touring in them), but wondering if maybe a tour wrap might be more appropriate, especially for sidecountry days. I actually used a 27 liner in my 26.5 cochises (310mm shell) but likely the 26 is ok in the 26.5 303mm ZGTP?Quote:
Originally Posted by LawndartGustav
How does the Tour Wrap tour? I'm guessing based on the name it's pretty good on the up?Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeLau
Friend who fits boots at the local shop was inspecting the stock liner over beers last week and was very impressed with the quality. Fwiw.
I've only tried the one in the green lupo ti and it toured ok but rearward ROM isn't super in that or any other wrap liner but it's way better than in a pro wrap. It kinda defeats the purpose of making a boot more stiff if rearward ROM would be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
Just saying that you'll get what you get with a wrap liner in my opinion, nothing for long strides ;) or you do your own bigger cut out and put some neoprene in it's place.
Depends what size you're looking for...27.5 Tecnica doesn't have anymore in stock (for the pro), you'll have to find a retailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by xyz
How different would the flex be if you went with Intuition Pro Tour LV liners? Pretty much the same as the stock liner?
Thanks. Good to know. I am actually looking to try on the 27.5. Both shops in whistler are out. I may just buy the 28.5. I’ve never fitted a 27.5 anyway. But the 28.5 is a touch roomy.Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Not sure if Tecnica Canada and Tecnica USA share distribution so it might be still worth a call.Quote:
Originally Posted by xyz
Just called the shop. To their knowledge the 27.5 is done for the season. But they do have some coming in they ordered a while back. They have like 4 other dudes in line for the 27.5 tho. I just gambled the 27.5 won’t fit and bought the 28.5 over the phone.Fingers crossed!Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Anyone using leashes with these? Haven't sorted out exactly where to clip the leash. The stock rings don't form very well, ime. Nice that they give you 4, but the girth hitch doesn't stick, so I will need the extras. Anyone have a fix?
Put a keyring on the bottom buckle loopQuote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
An actual keyring here?Attachment 259901Quote:
Originally Posted by JRainey
Any concern that the leash wouldn't rip but the buckle loop would?
Not really as the keyring will unwrap before the buckle pops... most likely. I ran the same setup on mercuries for a season without issue. You can also just hook the leash right onto the buckle loop, but a keyring sticks up eaiser, when the buckle is closed.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
It's good that something is breakable in your leash connection chain.
I mostly use BnD leashes and just wrap them around my ankle and clip to itself. But for static/short leases, using buckle or keyring is good.
Wait, what kind of a keyring are you talking about? Is there a specific brand?Quote:
Originally Posted by JRainey
I've been running the leashes to my buckles (the hard plastic latches, not the loops) and it's fine but not perfect. Looking for an easier setup before it gets really cold. Hate fiddling with gear with cold hands. I'm a wimp.
It's about the same. Feels pretty closeQuote:
Originally Posted by bfly
Going from a Mercury 28.5 you should have been in a Tecnica 27.5 and punched for volume. I went from Vulcan 27 to Tecnica 26.Quote:
Originally Posted by xyz
Stock liners are pretty good. Still haven't packed out. Some slight wear at toe due to my 30+ days of use.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
Re Tour Wrap touring - basically what Gustav said. They're maybe 5 to 10 points of flex stiffness more than stock liner or ProTour/Luxury liner. I'd call them a reasonable compromise between the Powerwrap or PowerTongue (which tour like ass imo) and the stock liner or ProTour/Luxury (which tour well but are softer). The liner quiver idea for travelling or for the one boot does all definitely makes sense to me
Just skied 40cms new at RMR in my ZeroGs and Epilog skis and Dynafit setup. I mean 40 new is pretty amazeballs in and of itself so take that fwiw but at no time did i wish I had my alpine boots
Thanks. Perfect data point. Performance fit is always best. For what I’ve heard the smaller shell is not only shorter but also smaller overall volume. Which I likely need for my skinny AF foot. I’ll return them tomorrow. Anyone else downsize from Vulcan/Mercury for Tecnica?Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeLau
I was 27.5 TLT5P, 26.5 Vulcan (lots of fitting required), 26.5 Technica
I got a 26.5 Zero G, first boot of that size in almost a decade.
I've been in:
25.5 mercury
25.5 tlt5 (super snug, but perhaps the best stock fit, if my feet weren't cramping)
25.5 Lupo Carbon (Fucked up my feet, then lots of punching. now good, but snug)
My foot measures just over 26cm on a Brannock, so I've been downsizing.
I'm not telling anyone else to size up. I have no doubt I could have used the 25.5 with punching. But I actually got this as a quiver boot next to the Lupo, so I wanted something that I could use all day touring without issue. Lupo C's slay all for normal skiing, so that's my goto.
I do find that tongue boots with an ankle buckle allow me to get away with a short boot touring and less toe bruising. Overlap can't hold your foot down so well without limiting articulation, so a little extra length is also appreciated by the toes.
I won't be able to ski until after Christmas though, but I tried on for days before I committed to 26.5, should be good for my purposes, especially considering I have a quiver of thicker liners.
Got to ski my Scouts, SUPER pleased with them. It's been a long time since I was in alpine boots but there is no feeling of hard stops/ giving out at a certain point like a lot of the AT boots I've been in the last few years. It's different to get use to the more upright stance when in alpine bindings, going to try to order some cuff spoilers to eek out a .5º to 1º more forward lean since I have skinny lower calfs. The velcro "spoiler" included is only for the front.
This is partly a design pet pet peeve of mine, partly a legit "wtf tecnica". But all of the parts (both pro and scout) that look like they accept an allen key (cuff pivot and power strap attachment) are actually rivets. Also all the website photos that show buckles attached with screws is actually a flat riveted connection as well. DON'T MAKE RIVETS LOOK LIKE AN ALLEN KEY OR SCREW HEAD IF IT ISN'T. I can understand the small cutting of costs, but don't try to dupe people into thinking it is a bolted connection.
You can always replace that loop with thin single braid Dyneema (something like this is what I use), I've played around with it on my lighter boots (You can instantly save 50grams a pair replacing the lower buckle cable on a Backland Carbon with it ;)) and I was talking with some other people who've had great success. If I remember right, dyneema actually has an equal to lower elongation than steel.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
All the product photos on the website are taken of early (sometimes pre) production photo samples. Those aren’t rivets designed to look like screws, they’re screws. Most of the early boots are not built with rivers.Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Screws are heavier and they come unscrewed. There’s a reason why we don’t put them on the touring boots, Especially the cuff bolts. You need to remove anything it takes 10 seconds with a dril bit.
Brilliant and thanks for the link. What/how are connecting loop to the latch? Just tying an overhand?Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Got a video or other tutorial that shows how to remove and replace rivets for the diy jongs?Quote:
Originally Posted by couchsending
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Tried them on while killing time in the local shop while my wife got her new boots fitted. Impressions: light weight, skiable moderate flex nice ROM, awkward/painful to put on, tight across the toes, high /loose instep, too much volume in the heel, mediocre Palau liner. Not close enough to my anatomy to bother with, but if they fit and you add Intuitions, they seem like a well executed “do everything ok” ski-touring boot, certainly not an in and out of bounds option, but if the fit is comparable, you’re probably better served sticking with Maestrales (easier entry, and you won’t need to upgrade the liners).
I'll give you preproduction photos, but...Quote:
Originally Posted by couchsending
The cuff and power strap rivets are most definitely designed to look like allen screws/ bolts, and for sure are not. I can understand the rivets for the buckles, but on common things to replace or maintain (cuff and power strap). Vibratite pretty much takes care of something coming undone.
There must be a reason other brands put bolted connections on their cuffs and buckles for their touring boots...scarpa, atomic, la sportiva, dalbello, rossi, fischer, k2, head, bd back in the day. The great thing about a screw is if it starts to loosen you can fix that in the field.
I do a double fishermans. Dyneema is slippery compared to poly or nylon so you want something that has plenty of hold and cinches down. The trick to doing a small loop with a double fishermans is don't pre cut your length so you have a larger working end.Quote:
Originally Posted by hafjell