Tech fittings are rarely molded in “straight” anyway. It’s normally necessary to adjust the toe laterally to get the heel pins to mate up. Then tighten screws with epoxy to secure that adjustment.
Printable View
Tech fittings are rarely molded in “straight” anyway. It’s normally necessary to adjust the toe laterally to get the heel pins to mate up. Then tighten screws with epoxy to secure that adjustment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
I've never had any success with that approach, maybe i can get 1mm movement, but definitely no more than that. I find that mounting the toe, then the heal lined up with the toe is the easiest route (i'm not a good enough skier to notice my heal being 1 or 2 mm off the ski center line), and it leads to perfect engagement with the tech pins.
Nick
I'll agree re old stamped steel 5-screw Dynafit toes, but IME newer 4-screw toes are spot on.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
FWIW, I always mount tech toes first, aligning the heel fixture screw center on my center line before working on the heel mount.
mount the tech heel first at dead center
mount the toe next by one screw only
clip the boot into front & rear while letting the toe find its happy place
now you drill the other 3 or 4 screws
unless you FUBARed the last part the heel should be dropping right into the rear pins
Haven't mounted skis in a while. Putting some Look Pivots on my new Billy Goats. I've got one of the early Jigarexs. I can't remember (or find) whether I should mount the toes on the line and then move the heals up 5 mm. I know the paper template already factors in the 5 mm difference. Not sure whether the Jigarex plate does also. Anybody mount FKS/Looks with the Jigarex want to share what they did?
Do a test on a scrap. You could use the template as a comparison, too. What's your BSL?Quote:
Originally Posted by bern43
BSL is 315. I'l do a test mount and also compare the template. Thanks for the suggestions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Mounting some 104s and have choice of Pivot's w/115 brake, Griffon w/110 brake or Attack w/100 brakes.
Q: Better to bend inward than out w/these options? assuming Griffons would likely be fine as is.
i just mounted a pair of 104s with Attacks w/100mm brakes and they fit fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by esseff
So, I thought I was going to insert my older skis for shifts for an early season travel rig, then I took the bindings off and realized I forgot about all the old mounts!!
Attachment 305779
I did find that the two rear most screws were suspect, so I at least got to set 2 inserts in these puppies.
Also found, if anyone is interested, that the Shift and Dynafit heel share the same rear holes and the front holes are nicely spaced. The shift toe pattern is also way spread out and doesn’t conflict either.
Good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
Any of three easier to mount - set fp than the others? I've mounted Attacks...easy to set.
I'm going to tap some holes for the first time tonight...not my first mount by any stretch, but my first tap. How much downward pressure do I need to put on the tap? Just a bit to get it to start biting into the metal/wood or is a fair bit of pressure required?
I'm mounting bindings on a used pair of Candide 3.0 186...I took them for a rip on the weekend and they felt super short. Turns out the mount was a couple cm ahead of the Candide line which is already pretty forward! No wonder they felt short...I imagine they'll ski a heck of a lot better with a mount somewhere between the candide and all-mountain line.
Just a bit to get started and then it should take almost no pressure at all
Awesome, thanks! I'll post pics after I mount my own fucking skis.Quote:
Originally Posted by waxloaf
Yes, once it bites in, it will thread itself in. Main thing to watch is that you are going in 100% vertical when you are doing inserts. When it bottoms you'll feel it.Quote:
Originally Posted by billyhoyle
I've never tapped a regular screw hole. It's not necessary unless your skis are solid aluminum.
I always tap. Zeno's tests consistently held that pre-tapped screws have better pullout strength. Also, tapping gives you a more consistent feel of the minimum torque needed to turn the screw home, i.e., better than using the screw to self-tap, thus -- if done right -- tapping can virtually eliminate risk of a spinner. And, if you use epoxy, tapping might make make the ski core more receptive for the epoxy.
I've never tapped either and I've done a couple skis with metal layers without trouble. But I'm going to give it a shot and see which method I prefer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
I feel like the to tap vs no need to tap debate has gone around this merry go ‘round a few times.
Another in the the "always tap" camp (titanal or no), though I never did when I was a tech. Most techs I know also don't use 2-part epoxy or tighten screws by hand, either. Time is money.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeezerSteve
I'm convinced the top laminate layers are stronger when you cut the perfect shape for the screw and it slides in smoothly than when you just ram the screw in with no prep and there's stress on the screw hole.
Well tapping didn't take much effort and it was cool to feel the screws just thread right in. I think I'll tap from now on unless I'm really pressed for time for some reason.
I threw some Shifts on old Candides to try them out...mostly resort duty with the occasional short tour.
Attachment 305887
I've been doing it for decades and have yet to find the occasion when I have insufficient time to tap my own skis. Just remember to stop as soon as you feel slight resistance or you will dimple the base of the ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by billyhoyle
Totally, the feeling of bottoming out was really subtle.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
And ya, it didn't take much time or effort at all. Worth the $30 and 5 minutes.
When you tap everything do you only drill w 4.1 bits?
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
To reiterate some FAQ's, including your question:Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
Quote:
- By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions. If there are no drill sizes provided on the ski (ie, custom skis), contacting the manufacturer for their recommendations is your best course of action. If unsure, drill with 3.5mm diameter tip. If metal is present, then use a 4.1mm bit.
- The general rule on alpine ski drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
- The outside diameter of an alpine screw thread is just over 5mm. The inside diameter of the screw thread (shank) is just over 4mm which matches the tip of a 4.1 diameter bit. Softer materials such as wood or plastic will compress when driving a screw into a 3.5mm hole. Non-compressible materials like metal and carbon should be drilled with the larger diameter, 4.1mm hole so the shank does not compress and damage the material while being driven into the ski.
- Binding Freedom & Quiver Killer stainless steel inserts & heli-coils require a 1/4" tipped bit.
- The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
- It is better to err towards a longer tip than one shorter than the embedded screw section length so the bindings can lay tight to the ski.
- Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
- The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.
- Tapping skis with metal and carbon top sheets using a 12AB tap is highly recommended. Tapping all holes regardless of topsheet type or drill tip diameter is recommended. The same tap works for 3.5mm & 4.1mm diameter holes.
Got my homemade jig put together. Is it silly overkill? Definitely. Was it fun to build? Yep.
Attachment 305954