good example of a chamfered hole ... that ain't gona volcano
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good example of a chamfered hole ... that ain't gona volcano
No need to go that deep, he's removed some titanal which reduced the pullout strength. Just remove the topsheet material.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Isn't titanal below that white layer? Didn't clean topsheet before chamfering holes (with dull 10mm drill bit) so there is some titanal chips.
Mounted my buddy's fucking Lotus 124 Alchemists with Radical 2's. today. Don't worry, not a dentist - he got them at 50% off. Heavier than I thought at 2140 grams in 185. Very nice looking ski, I have to say.
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Lithic Faction Arlo Candide 120 3.0
Another mounting spree before the holiday. Old Sally wormscrews on 5 more old ski models.
- Head Boneshaker 191cm 2013, Salomon S916
- Atomic Big Daddy 125 190cm 2009, Salomon 997 DIN=14
- Rossignol Axiom 183cm 1994-98? (painted black by previous owner), Salomon 977 DIN=14
- Stockli Stormrider 110 TT 192cm 2012-13, Salomon 977 DIN=14
- RMU North Shore 195cm 2014, Salomon 957 DIN=14
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Salomon's graphic shows the titanal just below the topsheet - https://www.evo.com/outlet/skis/salo...gaAsztEALw_wcBQuote:
Originally Posted by JanIdar
Not sure what else would be on top of it, but you still don't need to go that deep to avoid volcano-ing. Even if you tap the holes and a bit of material comes up, just shave it off with a blade.
Skepticism can be a healthy thing. But it's weird to me when people believe that a wacky little skill like this is hard for a human to achieve. Reminds me of the early days of Blister when Jonathan seemed to believe things like that humans were incapable of significantly shortening a "palette cleansing" period between testing multiple ski models. Humans have like 80 years of lifespan to work on stupid little wacky skills, so yeah---humans are capable of stuff like this.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
.
Who needs inserts when you have titanal? Just as tight as the first time...
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So I got the brakes in and all is well. I ended up removing the heels, cleaning up a couple small volcanoes on two screws. I ended up cross screwing them back on, so I mean one front threw the brake then one rear on ethe opposite side and back to the brake etc. It worked on both heels and they are near flush on all 8 screws. Appreciate all the feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by prsboogie
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Remounted Renoun Endurance 98's to see if it will reduce tip dipping in stiffer and deeper snows. -3.8cm seemed to far back & -2cm seems better and hopefully not lose their sweet carving ability and playfulness.
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Happy Thanksgiving all and let it keep on snowing!
Mounted these a few weeks ago.
How does 4FRNT measure from the tail to rec line? Straight pull on these was just under 870 mm (same as Blister states). 4FRNT website states 880 mm. Attachment 304162
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I committed a sin and didn’t mount my own skis, I opted to let the shop at winter park mount a new pair we picked up for my wife while we were in the area.
On these attacks they mounted, the front end of the heel plate (right under the brake) has a pretty large gap. Should this be cause for concern? It’s about 1/4 inch.
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Pull the brake off and see what's going on underneath?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdalpra
Very helpful and insightful, thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129
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Not sure if that was supposed to be sarcastic or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdalpra
Point is there is no way to tell what's happening there. If those have the big brake assemblies like I think they do it may just be installed improperly OR the actual base plate is mounted wrong/obstructed from sitting flush.
Nah.Quote:
Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129
I’m pulling them apart now. I know the attacks have the fully lined bottom assembly, and shining a light on the opening doesn’t visibly show any obstruction. Didn’t think that internal brake components maybe a potential cause.
I’m also curious if the actual base plate is warped because the screws themselves seem flush from plate to ski.
Regardless 1/4in rise seems too much, my rule of thumb has always been 1/8in. Curious if this has happened to anyone else with attacks with maybe a warped baseplate or something along those lines, because ultimately her heel will always be lifted in the bindings.
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I've seen a number of Tyrolia heels that have bent metal base plates. Remove the heel and straighten the base in a vice. The tech/shop should've spotted that.
How big of a gap is beyond the typical tolerance level? I just mounted a pair of Tyrolia's for a friend of mine that have a ~2mm gap between the heel base plate and the ski on one of the rear corners.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
The screws are snugged down as far as they will go and I've confirmed that I don't have volcanoes on any of the holes.
That's common because the rear holes in the base plates are so tight. I'd remove the heels from skis, drill the rear base plate holes with a wee bit thicker drill, 5.0-5.5 mm, and re-install them on skis. 5.5 mm will match the base plate front holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by GBB
1.5 mounts on these GPO.
Prior inserts were conflicting with a Frischi mount so I heated them up, removed them, and re-sealed with hardwood and G-Flex.
I might have to remove the original plastic plugs and repeat with the hardwood, as I'm going to be really close on the heel track.
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That did the trick. Appreciate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoooL
Mounted my own fucking skis thanks to this thread. Paper templates worked perfectly. Chamfered the holes, but still had some volcano. fixed it with a razor. I’ll definitely be tapping the holes first next time...
Heres my question. I can still see a tiny sliver of light in between the base plate and skis In the middle, maybe .1mm, but both tips of the baseplate are touching the ski. Is there any tolerance for this or should they always be sucked down completely flush?
Wont let me add a pic, but they are marker griffons on Rossi sky 7s
Looking to mount an FKS binding on a ski previously mounted with a Marker binding. Using 2 of the Marker toe holes would put my boot very close to boot center. The problem(?) is that the 2 Marker holes I'd like to reuse for the FKS are approximately 2mm, maybe 3mm wider than the FKS pattern. So if I split the difference, the holes are off-center by 1-1.5mm.
Can I use the Marker holes by adding chopped steel wool mixed with G-Flex epoxy? I thought I'd tighten down the screws on the 2 new, centered holes first, then carefully put the screws in the off-center holes by starting 1 screw by a thread or 2, then start the other screw by a thread or 2. Tighten each a little at a time until they're screwed in all the way?
Or am I gonna die?
I’d just use glue.
Drill the new holes and mount the toe using the new holes to center then screw-in the ones you’re reusing.