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All good info! I will forsure save it as its just one of those parts you seem to need sometimes but can never find (or maybe a mag needs it down the road).
I didn't think i needed it but i did buy the frame from a mechanic ( he never mentioned it) so i thought it was somewhat needed.
Man i can't wait to get this bike up and rolling... weather needs to get better and i'm still waiting on a couple of parts.
All this free time has me thinking of a new fork for my Chromag Surface. It currently has a last gen Pike and I’m thinking of putting a coil fork on it. I’ve got a few riding buddies singing the praises of their coil converted forks.
I like the new Z1 but Cane Creek and MRP seem to have good options too. There is also the Push conversion but I’m hesitant to do that bc the Push coil kit costs more than my 3 year old Pike is worth.
Anyone running a coil fork? I haven’t used one since the Marzocchi coil forks of the early 2000s.
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I went with the PUSH coil conversion on both my Nomad (Fox 36) and my wife's Juliana (Pike) for opposite reasons.
The coil front matches my Nomad's coil rear perfectly and makes a very good bike an absolute DH monster. Just point and shoot.
My wife is very light (105lbs) and no amount of tuning could get her Pike to work well. The Vorsprung tune and air shaft helped somewhat but still had the same issue; by the time you dropped the pressure low enough for her weight, the fork just became dead. The lightweight PUSH coil made all the difference. She finally knows what front suspension feels like. Small bump sensitivity is amazing while still having midstroke support. The PUSH air bumper gives additional support against bottoming out.
Same experience with my wife on the push ACS Coil. She's got it on 2 bikes now (both with Fox 36). It's insane how little stiction there is now!
One thing PUSH pays a lot of attention to is rattle. This isn't your Marz fork of old with a spring rattling around inside. It's a silent assassin.
(They told me it's the reason they don't make a kit longer than 170mm)
Just a reminder, once you transform an air fork to a coil conversion, you can’t change your mind and go back to the air spring.
The spring will score the inside of the fork leg stanchion, and an air spring will never properly seal again.
Fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Having trouble with my non-drive side xtr trail pedal (9120). Feels as if it’s all of the sudden developed more float, my heel can move all over the place. No issue with the drive side. checked the spindle crank interface seems tight. As does the cleat tightness into the shoe (giro chamber 2). So thoughts are:
is the cleat itself fouled?
the pedal?
something in the interface mechanism?
weirdly turning up the “din” yesterday seemed to make it worse (99.9%) positive I turned it up not down.
anyways...
Photo of the cleat?
https://media.giphy.com/media/duM6JZ...qmxd/giphy.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I'm on a Ribbon coil (160) and am strongly considering getting a coil shock in the not-too-distant future.
I've found that generation of XTR pedals really sensitive to cleat wear. I always notice cleats wearing out on my XTRs before i notice it on other pedals. Replace the cleats and everything will be good again, even if the don't look that worn out.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
Can you feel the excess float while standing still? (just wiggling your foot around, not necessarily pedaling) If so, does that pedal still feel sloppy if you click in the other shoe?Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
Pics :
Attachment 326249
Still feel it when standing still, feels appropriately snug when in the other pedal on drive side,
So I guess that means something in the pedal?
The ‘din’ is righty-tighty, lefty-loosy, if that helps!
have you tried swapping the shoe in the pedal ? even tho you can't ride it with the shoe in the wrong peddle you could still click in to see how it feels ?Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
which would tell you if its cleat or peddle
I set SPD tension by backing the screw out til there is no clicking and then screwing it in while counting the clicks, a pedal with less clicks does not change the float IME
I've helped a number of people get on to SPD's usually I start them at 3 clicks until they get the hang of it and then turn the pedal up a little to maybe 5 or 6
Yeah that cleat is barely used. Check to see if everything is tight. I've have lots of bearings go to shit on SPD but it shows as visible play in the pedal just touching it.
Messed around with it, backed off the din and re-upped it, seems to be better now, will mess around with it next chance i get out on the trail. Thanks all
One more question, knowing full well I’m being an annoying a-hole:
Have a dhx2 on the bike, SLS spring, have it all setup precisely to the fox instructions, tightened preload collar until it just fully contacts spring, then added a full turn or so to set preload for sag. Seems like I can’t quite get the spring snug on the shock body, even adding up to another full turn (max reccomended) it still moves around ever so slightly when I bob on it, and seems like that’s making it a little noisier than it should be when riding. When I cycle it thru the travel, you hear an ever so slight thunking from said movement- is this just part of variable tolerances in spring production? Am i missing something on how the spring should be sitting around the body?
It goes preload collar, spring, retaining insert, c clip
Per fox, its the right shock stroke length, diameter, etc etc.
Take a photo of how you've got it installed. First time I did it, I had the C-clip or retaining clip on backwards somehow and it was moving around. Only thunk you should hear is at bottom out, when the shock body hits the rubber bottom-out bumper.
Interesting, will follow up with pic in the morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
All the clips are installed in the correct direction. Hmmm
Cleat wear is on the other side of the cleat, look at it from the back of the shoe you will see wear where it releases. Your pic does look a little asymmetrical at the toe end of the cleat. That is one of the places mine always wear, but i can't really tell if that is actually wear, or just lighting. But basically all that pic tells us is that you don't do much walking in your bike shoes.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
My new hardtail build was initially dead quiet, but has developed a pretty bad drivetrain creak under hard pedaling. Everything is brand new and I haven't even ridden it on dirt yet, just rides around the neighborhood.
Pulled the cranks and BB, regreased and re-torqued everything, re-torqued chainring bolts, greased and re-torqed the rear axle, re-torqued RD bolt, and tried different pedals, no effect.
What else can I try? 73 mm BSA BB shell, RF cranks and BB, 148x12 rear, new well-lubed chain.
Creaks are hard to find on bikes. What type of bike? Carbon or metal?
Aluminum frame. It still makes the noise when pedaling out of the saddle so it's not the seat rails or seatpost.
could be litereally anythingQuote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Obviously going to be the seat rails or post now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Cassette?
Creaky fork crown?
RF cinch crank? I used to get creaks from the interface between the chainring and crank arm.
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Forgot to mention that I also put a different rear wheel in, no difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Fork came off a different bike and never creaked before. Could still be possible, but would be a hell of a coincidence.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
104 bcd cranksQuote:
Originally Posted by hick
Your old knees?
Derailleur hanger / frame interface?
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Thanks for the coil fork praises. Pulled the trigger on a 150 mm Marz Z1 for my hardtail last night.
Shock question for those in the know: I have super low miles Fox dpx2 on an Ibis ripmo that feels fine riding, but makes the squishy sucking sound when compressed. Doesn’t seem to do it all the time. I had a dpx on a Bronson a couple years ago that made similar sounds and needed to be rebuilt If you even looked at it. Is this thing in the same boat and a total turd? Rebound seems to still be functional as is compression, is this just the sound it makes with the piggy back? Rebuild? Get another shock? I googled and got answers all over the board. Thoughts?
(Already posted in wrong thread and deleted, but Toast thought may be headed towards rebuild...)
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The DPX2 is fairly noisy when you run either the rebound or compression mostly open. It kinda depends on what the sound is. Squish = ok. Slurp = needs service. I'm sure that's not terribly helpful. The best way to check would be to crank the rebound slow (clockwise) and try cycling it. If it's quieter then, you're probably fine. If it's still slurping, it's cavitating and needs service.
Will do. Anything helps!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
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The SRAM 10 speed rear derailleur on my gravel bike is toast and I can't get a new for a week or so. I have an SRAM 11 speed derailleur kicking around, can I use that in the mean time with the 11 speed drop bar shifter?
I believe sprocket spacing on the 11 speed cassette is indeed the same as the 10 speed. Question is if your limit screw can go low enough to prevent you shifting off the end of the cassette.
Sram Road 10 and 11 speed use the same pull ratio, you can use it with your 10 speed drivetrain. If its a mountain derailleur it won't it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
Hmmm the 11 speed derailleur is a GX because it can clear the 40t cassette. It may not work but I'll try once I get a new shifter cable from the shop tomorrow.
I put the derailleur on last night without a cable and the limit screws do line up. We shall see......
The limit screws aren't the problem. The cable pull ratios are different, so the deraileur isn't going to move the right amount per shift, and thus won't line up right in more than 1 or 2 of the gears, depending how you set it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio